No. My buddy knocked something down there the other day and didn't tell me so it wasn't fully locked but still sounded like it was. I plan on getting a new hood first
Yeah I never the use the screws but I think I'll fix it on a rainy day anyway.
I certainly don't really care about that instant MPG gauge, I do the math to see what I get from filling up but I hardly ever care at any one moment. It's almost directly related to how far my right foot is down too lol, and engine load, so I can guesstimate without a gauge.
Oil temp is a actual good data to have in a performance car, and I already have aftermarket oil pressure and aftermarket water temp
Yerp, and there's a lot more of the metric ones with Celsius/KPH but if you get the UK ones you get the same Euro one with Fahrenheit/MPH. All ya gotta do is go to ebay.uk or whatever and find someone who ships worldwide.
Dwonda, mileage correction depends on a bunch of factors. Look up guides on how to do it and that will explain. In my case I used DIS on my shop computer and corrected it. Sometimes all you have to do is swap coding pulgs. And to fix the tabs you either to fab over a tab from a undamged cluster or swap over the black housing part from a undamged cluster.
You can also remove the light strip and put in a ASC one with a bulb. Pretty sure that would work. E36 clusters are pretty easy to mix match parts and customize
Ok well I can get this for ÂŁ45, and an additional ÂŁ42... But I think I will wait until your response from my earlier post, before I buy anything. So in short, I'm curious about your oil sender, and can you assure me that I'll still be able to have my ASC light? If I can't find one with mileage close to my car could I pay you to change my mileage? Oh and did yours come with a code plug?
Jesse, that picture of your car doing Autocross screams thicker anti-sway bars. That is a lot of roll. Or if you have thicker anti-sway bars, you need slightly stiffer shock springs.
Jesse, that picture of your car doing Autocross screams thicker anti-sway bars. That is a lot of roll. Or if you have thicker anti-sway bars, you need slightly stiffer shock springs.
This is an old pic when my car was on stock shocks/springs
This pic is about 3ish years old.
Put my non - m mirrors on
heres some pics from when I had my FK coilovers, allot less body roll, I havn't done auto-x with my bcbr's yet....they are wayyyyy wayyyy wayyyy stiffer than the fk's, sure the body roll is minimal.
These mounts feel and look so awesome can't wait to put them in. Ordered up an exhaust manifold install kit from bimmerworld I don't know how they do it but for all the gaskets new studs and nuts it came out to 60 bucks shipped. Turner wanted 80 for just the studs and nuts.
Didn't want to leave her parked on the street, got beaten to my parking space in driveway last night (two cars fit in there we have three) so I drove her to work, which takes me 5 minutes walking from my house :rofl: from there I drive a company truck to job site.
Of course coworkers were wondering who owned such a nice ride.
How is that your fault? I'm more and more convinced my daughter had something to do with this, considering her excuse was "I didn't know you parked there"............which was 75' away from her car, with an entire 1 acre yard to turn around it before she backed directly into my 633.
You're thinking the same thing I am, Karl. That shroud is too close to the core. It's going to be blocking as much air as it pulls through.
somedood, you need more gap between the core and shroud. that's why the commercially made shrouds are sort of cone shaped, to keep from restricting the airflow out where the shroud sits.
Lordy lordy today has been busy. New thermostat and housing gasket installed (btw mine is aluminum is that normal?) Everything looked good, no pitting in the aluminum. New fan and clutch (clutch fan) installed. Boy does it sound different, I hadn't realized how ****ty my old one must have been, this thing spins quite a bit more. Installed my new MPH instrument cluster, and installed my new radio! And installed my new bulbs in my new headlights, just waiting on the spray paint and then I'll install them. SO EXCITED!!!
Weird thing, first time I plugged it in, all I got were a couple idiot lights when I turned the key on. I went ahead and started the car and NOTHING not a single gauge needle was moving. So I took it back out again, and thought about why it wouldn't work, both this one and my current one are from a '95 325i, the part numbers for the VDO are identical, and the other part numbers are very near identical, probably different just because of the unit systems. And I debated maybe swapping the back of my cluster on to the back of the new cluster. And also thought of just sending it back and asking for a refund. But I thought to myself I better check again. Plugged the three harnesses in again, and VOILA everything works perfectly. Don't get it, but I'm not worried. Which reminds me I have to reset an oil light again.
Today I replaced my Vanos oil line, next will be the power steering lp reservoir line. I'm going to take my car through the car wash that sprays from underneath to clean off all of the oil, and I REALLY hope that I see no more. The Vanos line was obviously leaking for quite a while, the underside of the line and oil filter housing had a lot of caked on sludge.
Hand washed my car for the first time since the fall today... It has gotten sprayed down a few times over winter, but that's it. Looks pretty good now, but I will need to clay it again when I have the time. I'm also going to try the Meguiars microfiber paint correction system this year - hoping for good results.
And although it isn't a BMW, I changed the oil in my lawn mower today. I've had it for four years and this is the first oil change I've given it... I felt kind of silly feeding it Mobil 1, but I had an extra quart laying around and figured that it deserves the good stuff after having been neglected for so long.
I've used clay to remove rail dust off of cars when I used to detail them. What is it for otherwise? Explain this microfiber paint correction stuff to me.
Automotive clay is used to pull out all the gunk which gets deeply embedded into the paint's surface, and it works incredibly well. If you used to detail cars, you know that paint can still feel rough even after washing. Clay is used to remove all that roughness and gets the paint back to a perfectly smooth surface, ready for compounding and then waxing.
The Meguiars microfiber DA paint correction system is a kit made for random orbital polishers. It contains paint correction compound (a mild polish), wax, microfiber (as opposed to foam) polishing pads, and microfiber waxing pads. The microfiber pads look like this:
Traditional foam pads look like this:
Microfiber pads are generally considered to be more effective/aggressive than foam pads, which makes life easier. BMWs are known for having hard paint, which is great because it's harder to scratch than softer paint on other cars, but it also means that getting swirl marks and scratches out can be a real chore. My paint is in pretty good shape, but if you look in direct sunlight it still has ultra fine scratches from being washed using inferior methods (e.g., tunnel washes, self-serve car washes with foam brush, etc.). Most people probably wouldn't even notice, but I do. And on a black car, it's even more noticeable.
I've only used Griot's Garage products for random orbital paint correction in the past, but Griot's doesn't make microfiber polishing pads, so I decided to try the Meguiars kit this year. Matt (FenderBender) has used it in the past and loved it, and all the reviews I've read are extremely positive. I'm hoping I can get those last few ultra fine scratches out with this kit and have a near perfect finish.
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