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Car shaking and now cannot start. Please help.

3K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  rogerbmw22 
#1 ·
Hello there, I have a 2005 325i with about 90k miles. The weather where I am at now is simply brutal. 0 degrees fahrenheit.

The car was last used a week ago and everything was fine.
Saturday I drove it out of the house and back in again as I was working on the other car.

On Sunday, the temperatures dipped to about -5 degrees fahrenheit. I started the car and it started shaking. I noticed much more exhaust fumes than usual. I decided to turn it off.

Waited till the temperatures improved today (8 degrees) to start the car. The car would not start. The best I managed was for it to fire up once but it immediately died.

I don't believe the spark plugs or ignition coil has ever been changed. The car is throwing no codes on my OBD scanner. The battery does not seem like an issue because the radio is working fine when the key is in the ignition. There is more than enough gas.

Doubt it is related, but a few weeks ago, a small bulge developed in the body just under the gas cap. That area has some small rusting.

Please help. Not sure what's the next step I can try.
 
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#2 ·
A weak or failing battery will run the radio, lights, etc., with ease, they put no real load on it. Trying to start the car is another thing altogether, that requires lots of cranking amps, something that your battery is probably lacking at this point.

If your battery is over 4 years old, it might be failing (cold weather has a way of doing that to older batteries). Take it to an Autozone, O`Reilly`s, Pep Boys, etc., and have them run a "Full Load Stress Test" on it (nothing less !)

If needed, Walmart has a good replacement ( the H8) for around $125.
 
#4 ·
If you`re sure no codes are being generated, then it could be the CVV failing (they ALL do, especially in sub-freezing weather). Not a job you want to tackle in zero-degree weather, though....:eeps:
When it`s warm enough, pull the plugs and see what they look like....
 
#6 ·
Bob is right on about the battery and then CCV.

Try the easiest (least expensive) things first. See if it will fire up and run properly with a fresh battery. Next step would be to actually pull a plug and check the condition. This will give you an idea if your CCV is frozen up/not working properly.

The extra exhaust fumes could simply be because it was 5 below. It could also be related to just pulling it out and putting it back in the garage the prior week. Mine did this on occasion when I just fired it up to move it and then let it sit. There seemed to be a bit of visible exhaust fumes the next time I fired it up. The shaking might indicate a cylinder not firing or a failing CPS. But with no codes, its tough to tell. It doesn't make sense to replace coils unless you can verify that one (or more) is not working. Pulling the plugs will give you an indication if this is happening.

I'd start with a battery and get the car running for a bit. There may be no more issues once that is done.
 
#7 ·
To elaborate on what J.Kidd and I have said so far:

Batteries are absolutely critical on BMWs....you will be plagued by a sh!tload of seemingly unrelated gremlins with a weak or failing battery, so that`s Number One on the Usual Suspects List.
A failing CCV (CVV) causes oil fouling of the plugs, which would most definitely induce some shaking. Examining the plugs is the most expedient way to check that issue.
Replacing coils that are currently working "Just Because", is stupid and a waste of money. As I`ve said many times before, coils are like light bulbs, they either work, or they don`t work....if you suspect that one of the coils is bad, switch it to a different position, and see if the fault follows the coil. If it does, then you replace that coil....
 
#9 ·
Check ALL ground wires (especially the connection at the body)....take them apart, clean with a wire brush and sandpaper, then replace, making sure all connections are clean & tight.
 
#12 ·
Doing more research and it seems that it is fuel related.

I started out here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1011677

I think this thread displays common symptoms:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416381

At the moment, the car is cranking when I turn the key, but the engine simply won't start. Based on my research, I have a strong feeling the engine is flooded. Others have suggested changing the spark plugs which I am planning to do. I have new ones available. What I'm hoping to ask is if I change them out to new plugs, will the engine flood again due to some other issue? CCV/CVV? Is there something else I would need to do besides swapping out the plugs?
 
#13 ·
quick update... I did more reading and there was some advice on flooring gas pedal before starting. It seemed to almost breathe life. I think it actually did... but 2 seconds later, it died. Tried flooring it again before starting and this time it just cranked but engine showed no signs of starting. Temp today is 0 degrees. Tomorrow is 12 and Wednesday is 25. Thoughts and advice? Appreciate any help here.
 
#14 ·
"Flooring" the pedal will accomplish nothing, there is no mechanical throttle linkage involved, these cars are DBW (Drive By Wire), where it`s just electrical current passing through a piece of wire. Nothing more....

And as far as being "flooded" goes, the only possible way that could happen is for the fuel pressure regulator to fail completely, or the one-way check valve that keeps the fuel rail pressurized has failed....both are extremely long shots, and both would cause a fair amount of raw gas to enter the cylinders, and get down into the oil sump where it would show up on the dipstick........

Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail ? When you first turn the key to Position Two, do you hear the characteristic "whirring" sound of the fuel pump priming the system ?
 
#16 ·
This is what I find in Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KE-COxFTU5c

The comments from poster sound like what happened in my case with not getting the engine warmed up before turning off car:
Like someone posted in the comments the car wasn't getting compression. Basically the day prior to the no start issue, I started the car and it ran for about 5 seconds and then I turned it off. Didn't try starting until the next day when it failed to start. Problem was that during cold weather, the ECU injects more fuel then usual to help the car start, but if you shut it down right after, it washes the cylinders of the oil and gets little to no compression. All I did was took out the spark plugs, put a few drops of oil in each cylinder and it started up finally. Its called cylinder wash down. No parts needed to be replaced. Just wasted 4 days of removing and inspecting parts.

Should I do the spark plug change?
 
#17 · (Edited)
Its warmer this weekend at 37 degrees. I changed all spark plugs. This is what one of them looks like:


I feel like I am making progress. Key at position two. With the foot down on the accelerator for 10 seconds. When I start cranking, there is a difference this time. It feels like the car is about to fire up (as though there is some ignition) but it doesn't all the way. This carries on for about 10 seconds, then it almost gives up.... I tried about 4 times. Thoughts on the condition of the plugs and the car not being able to start?

As I was starting, the oil light on the dashboard was red. I don't believe this matters?
 
#18 ·
I`ve seen worse plugs....a fresh set should show some improvement while running.

Why are you holding the pedal down, what`s the logic there ? When you do this, do you notice the engine spins any faster or slower than usual ?

The oil pressure gauge will show red until the engine fires up, and pressure is in the safe zone.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Autozone will loan the fuel pressure gauge. Then you can check at the fuel injector rail. Remove the plastic engine cover and you'll see what looks like a tire valve. You should have 50 psi at key on before cranking.

Whirring sound when you turn the key on means the pump is turning. But you still could have a clogged filter or problem with pressure regulation.


And I agree, you need to refresh the CCV system. Exhaust smoke on start (not the steam that all cars make in winter), and dark oily plugs are the clear signs. Do it before you foul the new plugs too badly.
 
#20 ·
So the car finally started! Few hours after the spark plug change yesterday and two failed attempts starting, the car started immediately on the next attempt. I did have my foot on the gas pedal as I started (Fast Bob: I cannot explain it. I'm no mechanic - its what I've been reading on other threads).

Wife mentioned that she saw some yellowish exhaust smoke as the car started but was back to normal soon. Took a 20 minute drive and put it back in to the garage. Today, the car started normally. No additional exhaust smoke as far as I know. Hopefully everything is good from here.... Thanks for the help.
 
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