Azorean project

Hi everybody.

Just ordered the parts to rebuild my head and began my Azorean Project.
I did a compression test, with results below, and decided for a head rebuild, among with minor touches.

It’s a second (third actually) hand car and the PO reported an overheat. Don’t know further details. It started overheating, even during normal cruise (not economical, although not important for the issue). The coolant level keeps dropping, got some vapors on the exhaust side and occasionally (being with non-moisturized climate) white tailpipe smoke. It has 150K, and with all the factors involved, I decided for an head overhaul (resurface, valve stems, exhaust and intake polishing, cleaning and pressure tested for 250USD and just send the assembled head).

1st Compression test. I ran two with the results below. Take note of #5 cylinder on all plugs out test.
Plugs in: #1 217, #2 210, #3 203, #4 217, #5 205, #6 210
All plugs out: #1 217, #2 217, #3 224, #4 232, #5 58 (affirm, no mistake several times) and #6 210.
2nd Compression test.
Dry:#1 210, #2 210, #3 210, #4 232, #5 210, #6 217.
Wet:#1 239, #2 261, #3 261, #4 268, #5 253, #6 253



Minor touches:
- I have to work on the trunk door, because it doesn't open with key;
- Rear left door: The locking mechanism is broken, so sometimes it doesn't lock or unlock;
- Temp gauge: It starts only from near mid mark. I will replace it;
- Climate: I didn't quite figure it all out, but I have on some vents cold and on others hot air and most of the times it’s burning hot. I decided to look for clogging (back pressure on the outlet hose on engine compartment), clean the temperature pickup;
- Remove heater valve and secondary pump for some cleaning;
- Change coolant pump and thermostat;
- Head gasket and stem seals (the direct ones);
- Painting windshield wipers, windshield covers and front grille.
Roughly that’s the “big” works involving my project.

One of my major concerns is special tools. They are not easy to spot, neither cheap. I've ordered the Torx for the head bolts. The head will ship assembled to the shop. Can I get it done without more special tools??? As far as my planning goes, I think I can manage without the flywheel locking tool.

If possible, your help will be greatly appreciated and if you have some tip/advice starting from my “list of what to do”, please report.

Kind regards

Fernando

looking forward to this. What parts did you order for the head job?

Hi.

Because of the diversity of jobs involved, I intend to separate it on several DIY's for whose willing to take it.

I've ordered an head gasket set, aluminium thermostat cover, thermostat, water pump and the head bolts. The other little things I'll get it on local saler.

Best regards

Fernando Castro

you should also replace the valve cover gaskets and the little rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts. I did cam bearings when i did my top end refresh. do you have a VANOS car? might look into rebuilding that too

Hi.

Sorry about that. I'm talking about a 525i from 1990/06 euro-spec (M50B25).

The head gasket set as all the required gasket (supposed) including those.

Best regards

Fernando

Hi everybody.

I just received the parts for head gasket replacement, for now I think, and about to start the job.

Today I could use a lift, and after some considerations and as in the Bentley, I'll start by removing the exhaust manifold.

So just drive it there, put it on the lift, removed the heat shield out of the way and soaked all the nuts that I could get to on the exhaust with WD40.

Tomorrow I'll start removing the exhaust starting by disconnecting the front pipes and then the manifold starting by the rear one. Because I'm not tight on time, for the front ones I'll remove the battery.

Tomorrow more on this.

Cheers

Fernando

Good luck Bugsie.

Just as an FYI, WD-40 is not really a good penetrant for rusted nuts and bolts. You would be a lot better off buying a product that is specifically designed as a penetrating oil. I use PB Blaster, but there are others out there and some even better than PB Blaster. I'm sure one of the more experienced members here can name the better ones.

Hi.

Update on this. Exhaust manifold is out. Easy job. I'll write a DIY.

Cheers

Fernando

Hi all.

An update on this. I got the exhaust manifold out, and it was quite easy for my expectations. For a total of two hours and a half, everything done.

After, I moved to the cooling system. Radiator, hoses, viscous coupling fan and fan and block drain plug. All smooth.

I started to work on the intake removal, but had to reassemble 'cause I reconsider and decided to clear all the from fuel. Start the motor, and with a pretty sound due to the removed manifold, removed the fuse and let it stall.

After I find a proper marker to the labels, I'll keep on removing the intake.

Cheers

Fernando

Hi all. Update.

After 2:50, the intake manifold is out.

Lots of photos and relativeley easy job. Next starting on the cylinder head.

Cheers.

Fernando

Hi all. An update.

So finally the head is out. Not due to unexpected works, but due to time available, and willing. The weather is lousy and I really don't feel like going from house to the garage.

I'm writing separate threads for each procedure.

Troubles found:
- one of the torx bolt holding the primary guide rail got rounded so I had to improvise, but it's out;
- the crankshaft position sensor (block side) doesn't want to get out. On the process of removing it I damaged the side of the tip. Any tip on how to remove the sensor. I thinl I'll go for a new one, just in case, because of the dent on the tip. What do you think??;
- As I suspected, there's a crack on the wall, exhaus side, begining at the top edge with near 2 inch, but i think it doesn't reach the chambers wall. The head it's going to the shop and I'll wait for an answer on the possibility to weld. They have good references with a "oven" available.

Works ahead:
- good cleaning to the ICV;
- remove starter and overhaul (sometimes it misses and doesn't turn);
- work on the hoses from the independent heater and heating itself. I have to compare tro schematics because they look odd to me;
- clean the heater valve;
- flush the heater matrix.

I think that's all.....for now.


Cheers

Fernando