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DIY - E39 525i Fluid Triple Play (PS, diff & tranny fluid change)

98K views 50 replies 21 participants last post by  bluebee 
#1 · (Edited)
This is yet another data point for the growing number of E39 owners who have replaced the "lifetime" Esso ATF. There have been a number of threads that I have learned from, so I want to give thanks to those who have already shared their experiences. The details of this DIY are specific to the 525i, so 530i and 540i owners should verify any differences before proceeding.

WARNINGS:
* If you have not done a DIY oil change, please do not try this as your first fluid change.
* If you do not have jacks, stands/ramps (nor know how to properly use them) or if your head cannot withstand the weight of 3400 lbs, please do not try this at home.
* If you do not know that a running car in a garage without proper ventilation will kill everyone inside, please do not try this at home.

After gleaning wisdom from those who have shared their ATF change experience, I decided that at 51K miles (bought my 2003 525i at 49K miles) that it was time to purge the lifetime Esso. Since I was not using fresh Esso, I decided to do an immediate second drain & refill, getting about 85% new ATF compare to just 67% with just the pan drop and refill. There are some folks who drove another 1000 miles before doing a second pan drop, filter, & refill that will get them to 90% new ATF. Either approach is preferable than keeping the lifetime Esso in the tranny.

Since the differential and PS fluid changes require only an additional hour at most, I decided that a DIY Fluid Triple Play is the way to go.

NOTES
* The pictures were taken a couple days later since I did not have a clean third hand to take pictures while wrenching, cussing, screwing and moaning.
* I used the term "no visible wear" for the PS ATF and the diff oil only in visual comparison to the Esso ATF, and acknowledge that the fluids could have deteriorated.
* The times shown are estimates, not targets to beat. You are not practicing for a career at a 10-minute lube joint nor for a NASCAR pit crew slot. Take your time to do it right.

With a sunny, 50 degree forecast for Super Bowl Saturday here in central Virginia, I decided to go for it. Immediately after lunch, I took the E39 out for a 10-mile drive to get the fluids nice and hot before getting started. After getting the rear tires on the ramps, and placing jack stands on the front sides (with the jack on the front center lift point for additional support), I measured the temperature of the tranny (126 deg F) and diff (107 deg F) pans. The fluids inside would be a bit too hot to work with so it's best to start with the easiest job, replacing the PS fluid. By the way, the car should be as level as possible when placed upon jack stands/ramps.

The 525i has rack & pinion steering that uses ATF (Dexron III) instead of regular power steering fluid. The Bentley manual doesn't state the system's capacity, but given the collective knowledge of those who did the turkey baster drain/refills, one quart appears to be the magic number. The 540i has a different steering gearbox system.



Changing the PS fluid first allows the tranny and diff to cool down a little (but I didn't think of it until afterwards...I actually changed this last). Purists would want to do a complete drain before filling with fresh fluid, but that requires a lot more time and increases the risk of getting a leak in the PS system.

This process mixes new fluid with the old, but that's fine by me since it's better than not changing it. If you agree that it's OK to mix the new with the old ATF, this is probably the most simple fluid change on the E39.

Use a couple towels to cover the areas where oil is likely to drip, and you can save a couple minutes of cleaning time.



For $4 worth of ATF and an $8 suction gun, I probably save $100 compared to a dealer job. Then again, I might have extracted only new ATF the 2nd and 3rd time since there is no way to tell...

Now that my confidence is building, it's time for a slightly more difficult task of changing the differential fluid that also happens to be a magical lifetime oil. According to Bentley, it is a specially formulated synthetic gear oil (SAF-XO...cognac?) that is available through authorized BMW dealers. I picked up a filler spout with a 12" tube ($4) from Advance Auto that has a nice flow-lock device on the cap-screw. You'll need a breaker bar to get the fill/drain plugs out.



The 525i's differential has a 1 LITER (1.1 quarts) capacity, and dog-gone-it, the bottles in the US come in 1 quart size. I couldn't find M22 aluminum crush washers at the auto parts stores around here so I just reused the old ones. The lifetime diff oil didn't have any visible wear.

After torquing the plugs, use Simple Green to remove oil off the diff housing.



Well, wasn't that simple as well? Two quarts of M1 75W90 @ $9 each, $4 filler spout, $12 for the 18" breaker bar, $10 for a set of 3 large hex bits amount to a grand total of $44 for a job that a dealer might charge $150 for. The savings are adding up and paying for new tools. I even got to dust off my seldom used torque wrench for this job.

OK, my confidence is way up to the point of feeling like the 18-0 Patriots as a 14 point favorite in the Super Bowl. It is now time to do the tranny! Unlike the PS and diff fluid changes that are very straight forward, draining and dropping the tranny sump pan is quite a bit more involved.

The 525i steptronic has the ZF 5HP19 transmission (aka A5S 325Z) that is filled at the factory with a lifetime Esso ATF. If you decided to change the ATF, you probably don't believe in the tooth fairy either. To be absolutely sure that you have the 5HP19, you should check the stamped GREEN metal label on the back of the tranny. You will need a towel to wipe off the crud on the label.



I've divvied up the ATF change into two separate processes: 1) Pan drop and reinstallation, and 2) ATF fill. Having the right tools makes the pan drop job much easier. Wally carries a large rectangular oil drain pan for ~$6, and I highly recommend getting an electric screwdriver with a clutch (Black & Decker $20 @ HD). Repeat after me: I will get a high-grade T-27 socket and driver bit, and not a combo bit that will waste an hour of my time by stripping the pan bolt.

BMW parts you will need (crownauto.com):
PN 24 34 1 423 376 - OEM Filter (Filtran) - $18.92
PN 24 10 1 423 380 - OEM Gasket (green paper) - $10.66
PN 24 10 1 423 273 - T-27 bolts with spring washer (order at least 4 extra) - <$1 each



Wait, there's more. A magnetic dish to hold (22) pan bolts will keep them from rolling throughout the garage as they are removed. The optional (in my case, mandatory) drill with a 7/32 bit and vice grip for removing stripped pan bolts.



Some of the other posts recommended the purchase of an overpriced Snap-On stubby 8mm hex. However, another benefit to owning a 525i is that there is just enough clearance to use a regular 8mm hex bit, 3/8-1/2 drive adapter, and a breaker bar. Thus, 525i owners do not have to kill themselves trying to loosen the Fill Plug with just a ratchet.





Before we get started with dropping the tranny pan, here's a quick change of scenery to get the adrenaline flowing.



I had two objectives: 1) Don't make a mess, and 2) Don't strip any of the (22) T-27 pan bolts.

In step #4, be careful in loosening the T-27 pan bolts with the ratchet. Even with great care, I ruined the T-27 socket tip, stripped two bolts, and spent an hour trying to remove them. Ultimately, I drilled them out and used a vice grip to remove the bolts. So much for a perfect 19-0.



I'm in the home stretch, and it's time to fill the tranny.



If you use jack stands in the rear of the car, keeping your foot on the brake when running the tranny through the gears will keep the wheels from spinning. Allowing the wheels to spin without a load will trigger your DSC, and more importantly, be hazardous to anyone standing around the vehicle. Keep checking for leaks around the gasket whenever you crawl under the vehicle. Tighten the bolts where you see oil seeping along the pan seal and around the pan bolts.



Since I haven't put too many miles on the car, I couldn't really tell if the tranny is performing better. However, I definitely feel better knowing that I no longer have gray Esso and filthy magnets in the tranny. For less than $80 in fluids/parts and $150 worth of new tools in my garage, I easily saved $400-700 on the ATF change and knowing that I did the job properly. Well, that's all folks, and enjoy the Bean in Chicago's Millennium Park!

 
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#41 · (Edited)
This excellent picture & fact-filled DIY was just written today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > DIY: 1998 BMW 528i MANUAL Transmission & REAR Differential Fluids UPDATED version
DIY: 1998 BMW 528i MANUAL Transmission & REAR Differential Fluids UPDATED version

* To see the original DIY from May 2006 (@88K miles), scroll down to see it. This is for updated version of what I just did at 141K miles.
See also:
- ATF: Automatic transmission fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) & automatic transmission fluid & filter DIYs (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & torque values (1) & how to find the hidden E39 transmission fluid level dipstick (1) & why ATF gushes out of the fill hole (1) & ZF 5HP19 facts (1)
- Differential: Rear differential hypoid gear oil (1) & differential fluid change DIYs (0) (1) (2) (3)
See also:
No _ I didn't do either the filter or the o-ring -- but the steering feels much smoother. I'll wait until my next oil change and tackle -- thanks for the info!
No rush.

Most seem to clean the filter about every few oil changes.


And, if you don't replace the o-ring every couple of years, you'll need the M-sock mod:
 
#43 ·
For the crosslinked record, it was asked today over here whether RTV is needed:
E39 (1997 - 2003) > Using RTV Sealent instead of Transmission Oil Pan Gasket

Hi,

I have a 2003 530i with 43000 miles and automatic transmission. It has the green sticker on the transmission oil pan with the ZF 5HP19 (A5S 325Z) trans.

While I have no issues with my trans (except for the occasional hard shift or 'thud' while going into reverse), after reading through the posts here, I decided to go ahead with the transmission oil change as a preventive maintenance.

Something about crawling under the car while it is up on jackstands made me want to go a shop to get it done (Also the low clearance kinda scared me off). I called the ZF Service Center in Vernon Hills, IL just to see if they do this sort of thing now. They directed me to a Bosch service center which apparently does work on the ZF trans. Bosch in turn said that they do not do it and directed me to a independent oufit called Underground Autosports in Hoffman Estates, IL.

I went to see them today and apparently they do a lot of custom work for race cars. There were a couple of E46 M3's being worked on and it looked like a place which knew its Bimmers.

After talking to the owner about the trans oil flush, he mentioned that they do not use the gasket to seal the trans oil pan. Instead they use RTV sealent. While I am aware that there are discussions outside this forum as to the effectiveness of using RTV to seal the pan, I could not find anybody who had done it a a DIY (I guess because as a DIY, its almost impossible to get the pan surfaces clean enough that the sealent will actually work).

So now I am of 2 minds - I would like to see how effective RTV sealent is, but obviously I dont want the fluid to leak after the oil is changed. The owner said that they always use sealant instead of the gasket, so it looks like they dont have a problem with it on the cars they do.

What says the collective wisdom on this forum?
 
#45 · (Edited)
Ok, I'm having a brain cramp. I'm following above for ATF change/fill/flush, with mention of both a drain and a fill plug, but only see one plug, in picture above. Is that the drain or fill plug--or does it serve both purposes? The differential is a no brainer, done that once and doing again today. But I don't see the same for transmission.

UPDATE: Was a brain cramp. Watched video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOQ3Bp-RDBY (this is number 2 but watched both). However, I did notice that Otto says to run car to 140 degrees.

As an FYI for me, I panicked when I opened the fill plug (just to top off, not ATF change), it poured out. That mean it was overfilled? car was overnight cold. I'm going to warm up the car next and go thru the gears then bring up to 140 degrees and check again (and fill if needed).
 
#47 ·
Hi Riro424,

Yes, I do have the green label. The problem was that I was low to the ground and visibility was limited. And main drain plug was same color as the pan (camouflage grey) and it looked invisible. And yup, once warmed up, it stopped leaking out. :)
 
#48 · (Edited)
There is a good discussion today about how temperature affects the transmission fill level ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Trans fluid level checked hot and cold
You know, Bav Auto has a video performing the service with the steps you need to take to ensure a successful job:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZbA-OqoPJQ

Just so happens they are doing the service on an e39. In part 2, Otto discusses the proper way a DIY'er can make sure the trans is up at operating temp, and runs it through the gears and refills. I found it very informative, too bad I have a 6 speed.
For the part1, I used a fuzz factor to shrink and optimize, but it screwed up the detail, so, here's a redo on the animated gif, where I was forced to shrink the size by limiting the pixel dimensions to 640x480 instead:
Part 1:

  1. Remove filler plug & drain fluid
  2. Loosen all bolts & remove all but the corners
  3. Remove the rear two corner bolts
  4. Crack the pan gasket
  5. Drain fluid if necessary out the rear of the pan
  6. Remove front two bolts
  7. Remove pan
  8. Remove filter
  9. Clean pan gasket area



Here is part 2 (with the experience of the first, I added a blank start slide, and circled the action in yellow):
1. Lubricate filter o-ring & push filter into place until the white flange seats
2. Line up gasket & pan and start one front and one rear corner bolt to hold assembly in place3
3. Tighten and torque in an X sequence starting from the center bolts working outward
4. Replace standard drain plug with a magnetic drain plug
5. Remove fill plug
6. Stage1 fill: Pump in the appropriate fluid with a fluid transfer pump
7. Appropriate fluid for a green-sticker 2005 528i is Texamatic 7045E fluid
8. Temporarily re-insert the fill plug
9. Start the engine, row through the gears, leave transmission in Park with engine running
10. Remove fill plug with engine running
11. Add fluid until it drools out (it should take about 1 to 1.5 quarts)
12. Replace fill plug.
 

Attachments

#49 · (Edited)
To the original question, notice this quote from here:
- ZF BMW Transmission_Fluid_Level_Procedures.pdf
If the transmission temperature rises above 50°C during the fluid level checking procedure the resulting oil level will be low.
Let the transmission cool down and repeat the fluid level procedure.

See also:
- ATF: Automatic transmission fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) & automatic transmission fluid & filter DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & torque values (1) & how to find the hidden E39 transmission fluid level dipstick (1) & why ATF gushes out of the fill hole (1) & ZF 5HP19 facts (1)
 

Attachments

#50 ·
A related question was asked today,
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Tranny Fluid Circulation Time

I replaced the filter and fluid on my 5 HP 19 gearbox on the weekend. After a couple of short runs I noticed drops of fluid under the car. I originally torqued the pan bolts to 6Nm which I have since found is wrong for this ZF box, it should be 10Nm. I lifted the car again today and retorqued to 10Nm going around the pan 3 times to be sure. They turned a little more with each pass but it all seemed ok.

After a couple more short runs, it's now leaking a lot, the garage stinks of ATF. The filter/gasket kit I used was a VAICO kit. The gasket was thick and rubbery compared to the almost paper one that came out. I've just ordered a Meyle to replace it so the pan is coming off again. Maybe the gasket got buckled while fitting it, I have no idea, yet.

My question is, I've only done about 15-20 miles on the new fluid. Will this be enough to clear the old fluid out of the torque converter and mix it all. The fluid ain't cheap and I don't want to change it again, I only planned for 2 changes.

What's leaking out is not the clean fresh red fluid that I put in, it looks dirty, so I'm thinking it's mostly mixed. What came out when I first dropped the pan was well and truly past it's use by date, it was very black and had particles in it.

[edit]
167K Kms on the car, about 104K miles.
 
#51 · (Edited)
The question came up today how to drain and flush the power steering system on the I6 ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Looks like PS systems are the hot topic today
I placed an order with BavAuto yesterday over the phone, and I'm all about double and triple checking before DIYs. So I asked them -- good video on PS change, but can't I simply drain, since I've got a 02 M5?

They checked, and said NO, your car does not have a PS fluid drain.

And here's what Bentley says - lifetime fill!!:

The power steering system is permanently filled and does not have a drain. Routinely adding ATF is not required unless the system is leaking.

I'll find out for sure soon when I change my oil, but anyone out there have another first person confirmation? Thanks.
The V8 has a drain, as can be seen in these pictures from the V8 cracked bracket thread:
- Why are the BMW E39 V8 540i power steering pump brackets breaking and how to check for PS pump bracket cracks (1)

See also:
- PSF: Power steering fluid (1) (2) & power steering fluid flush DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) & volumes (1)[/QUOTE]

Here's another picture of the V8 drain from the V8 cracked bracket thread:

Here's a picture of the bottom of my I6 power steering pump (still with the factory hose clamp), which has a different bracket than the V8 and no drain plug.
- One users' example of total electrical failure (AAA towed away) alternator repair (1)

Of course, check for leaks here (this is mine leaking, before I did cn90's cut-and-fix hint):

BTW, looking at this picture from Michel's alternator thread, I wonder if it's a good idea to cut off the factory clamp on the I6 power steering pump - and drain the fluid that way (Michel seems to have replaced the factory clamp).

See also:
- PSF: Power steering fluid (1) (2) & power steering fluid flush DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) & volumes (1)
 
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