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296K views 144 replies 68 participants last post by  M-technik-3 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
BMW X3 FAQs And DIY compilation

I've been thinking of this for some time now and since we don't have a "one-stop thread" for DIY and general interesting facts and questions, I went ahead and started this little compilation of member's posts, please feel free to post your own or PM the link and I'll add it to the first post. Attached documents welcome!

Let's start with these:

FAQ's AND USEFUL LINKS

2005 X3 BROCHURE (PDF download, 2.1 MB) NEW!

Great article on maintenance

Sunroof reset procedure

Service Light Reset

SIB for Window Guide noise

Customer Assistance Program (aka GOODWILL)

OBD II codes

BMW codes

BMW especialized Indy shops

BMW wheels by style

DO-IT-YOURSELF THREADS AND LINKS

2004-2006 OIL CHANGE DIY

2004-2006 X3 Trailer Hitch install

Sound System Improvement Stage One

DIY for muffler rattle

Front Brakes job

Retrofit inside rearview mirror

OEM Navigation Retrofit

Disable X3 seat belt chime

Window Regulator Repair

Rear window drive dog repair and replacement by kenza (DOC download, 6.46 MB) See attached documents below for a PDF version, thanks Supercourse.

Front Door Panel Removal w/pics by VodkaG (PDF download, 2.6 MB)

Rear Door Panel Removal

Cupholder removal/replacement by minicrazy592

X3 ULF bluetooth retrofit (part 1)
X3 ULF bluetooth retrofit (part 2)

DICE installation instructions NEW!

PARTS

RealOEM

CROWN BMW

TISCHER BMW

BIMMERWORLD

FACTORY ACCESSORIES

OWNER'S MANUALS NEW!

2005 X3 MANUAL (PDF download 4.8 MB)

MISCELANEOUS DOCUMENTS

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#97 ·
When I changed my trans fluid & filter a week ago, I used a level that conveniently had a magnetic strip on one side. Just slapped it on the pan first parallel to the length of the car, then jacked it up so it was level. Next, I turned the level 90 degrees so it was perpendicular to the length of the car, then leveled it side to side. When I was done, I could get a good center bubble on the level front to back and side to side. Never thought I'd use the magnetic feature of that level... Used a nice rachet wrench driven by my air compressor to transfer the fluid. Noisy, but quick & efficient.
 
#99 ·
The pan itself is also at angle. At different angle that the case. So the only way to see level of the case is to place level on the pan bolts on the sides. But I am still not convinced whether you should level:

the tranny case,
the bottom of the pan,
or the car body.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using BimmerApp mobile app
 
#100 ·
I looked at the pan this evening. It is formed in two planes. The back 2/3 does indeed decline by 1/2" from front to rear. The front 1/3 is level. I had my level on the front 1/3 so I am confident that I was measuring the transmission in a level attitude at the time.
 
#101 ·
The front is also in different incline as the transmission case. So there are 4 different levels you can measure. I would like TIS doco that shows which to level.

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#102 ·
Dude, jack the car and level it to the point that the vehicle is parallel to the ground. Just like you were driving it on a level surface.

I think that you are splitting hairs, you'll have to down jack the vehicle or shift it on jacks to warm up the fluid and check it again.

I just checked my Bentley's for the E9x series, and it doesn't even specify. It only says "Raise Vehicle and support safely"(pg 240-8).

So... I assume (and take it for what its worth, I am a Fighter Aircraft Mechanic not an ASE mechanic) to level the car, like it was resting on the ground on a flat level surface.
 
#103 ·
You right, I may very well be splitting hairs. But i'd rather to be overly cautions than not cautious enough. Anyone get to TIS before it got removed from the web?

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#104 ·
Sorry for multiple posts, but here is another though. How would I know the transmission is level the same as it was when car was new? Suspension settles and at times not evenly. So what is the height from the ground to jack point on front and rear?

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#108 ·
Question,
Headlight assembly on 2004 x3 is identical to later model or there is any difference . I am planning to install one with angel eyes.:confused::confused:
With respect, this "Sticky" thread is for documenting DIY solutions, not for asking questions.

You should have just searched on "angel eyes retrofit" and would have found this:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646174

Note that there are variations in how you go about it depending on model year and trim level (e.g. 'M' Sport option in 2006 has different bumper design from your 2004).

Not an easy project by the look of it.
 
#112 ·
I have a 2004 X3 with an M54 engine. I purchased it it recently and noticed that where the intake temperature sensor is there was a broken-off plug. I have looked for a 2-prong, loose wire somewhere but am unable to find it. My question: does BMW put a small-diameter hole, exactly 1/2 way in the middle of the intake ONLY TO PLUG IT? To me that wouldn't make any sense! There was only a broken plug/cap where the temperature sensor SHOULD HAVE gone! So please give me your thoughts! Why put a hole in the intake only to plug it? Metal Auto part Steel Gas


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#114 ·
I have a 2004 X3 with an M54 engine. I purchased it it recently and noticed that where the intake temperature sensor is there was a broken-off plug. I have looked for a 2-prong, loose wire somewhere but am unable to find it. My question: does BMW put a small-diameter hole, exactly 1/2 way in the middle of the intake ONLY TO PLUG IT? To me that wouldn't make any sense! There was only a broken plug/cap where the temperature sensor SHOULD HAVE gone! So please give me your thoughts! Why put a hole in the intake only to plug it? View attachment 448874

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
Try looking up your X3's engine/parts blueprints on www.realoem.com
 
#117 ·
Carbon air filter delete along with opening exaust valve and dropping in a afe pro dry filter are three mods that increase performance in my book if done as a unit, but are also 100% reversible, so there's zero reason not to try. If done tho, reset adaption and give it a few days to figure out the timing Auto part Automotive lighting Vehicle Grille Automotive fog light
Vehicle Auto part Car Bumper Automotive lighting
Light Automotive lighting Headlamp Auto part Vehicle
 
#118 ·
2006 X3 Rear Differential oil change

This is a 'lifetime' oil but at 137k I decided I would refresh it.

I put the car up on ramps, and cleaned the two 14mm internal hex drain plugs. I couldn't find my hex bits, so I used a 9/16 inch SS bolt with two locked nuts to remove the drain and fill.

The drain was easy, the fill I had to drop the spare and work through the dropped spare tray to get the tool onto the fill plug.

I drained the diff for one hour - one drop every 60 seconds or so.

I filled with Mobil SYN 75W-90 gear oil using a pump and it took 1.5 liters +-200 mL before dripping.
 
#119 · (Edited)
LED Headlights retrofit, any suggestions?

Hi all,

I got a 2008 X3 with original halogen lights, the light pattern is weird and very diffuse. I was wondering if anyone had luck installing Putco or similar H7 LED bulbs with a resistor to fool the Canbus. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

My interior lights are all LED now, much cooler and brighter lights, perhaps it's time to ditch the halogens in the front.

Best,

Al
 
#126 ·
FYI on this Transfer Case Actuator Gear DYI, you do NOT need to remove the electric drive motor. The white & black plastic gears will just rotate a little when pulled off of the steel worm drive gear. That way you not have to worry about messing up the brushes in that step. Also, don't worry about removing the flat washer on the white gear, it comes out when you take that assembly out. Also, I could clean the old shaved off plastic from the worm gear area with it in place. Use a small acid brush to wipe it clean & add new (high temp) gear grease.
Thought I'd pass this on from my experience on doing this fix. Hope it helps.
 
#124 · (Edited)
Rear Differential Input Pinion Seal Replacement

I didn't see any DIY for this job, so I took a few shots while I did this job and will offer some thoughts from what I learned in the process.

Overall the job is not too bad. It took me way longer than it should (first time that's ever happened ;-) ) due to chasing down a tool that ultimately, I didn't need. More on that later.

Below is a shot of my oil-covered differential. The output shafts don't appear to be leaking, but the input shaft (pinion) seal seems to be spewing oil everywhere. Not only is this messy, but there is the risk of running low on oil resulting in differential replacement.

Auto part Tire Automotive wheel system Automotive tire


No need to drop the exhaust to do this job. You will need to remove several of the small bolts holding the heat shield in place, then bend the heat shield back to allow access to the driveshaft mount.

Automotive exterior Vehicle door Bumper Vehicle Car


I removed the rear-most exhaust hanger nuts just in front of the rear bumper to allow the exhaust to drop a little for added working room.

The aluminum support needs to be removed. It has several kinds of fasteners, but none of them presented a problem. Simply remove all the bolts and wiggle the support out of the way.

Remove the 4 driveshaft bolts. It's easiest to remove the bottom two, then jack up one wheel, loosen the parking brake, shift to neutral, then rotate the rear tire to spin the drive shaft 180 degrees to get at the other two bolts. I like to use a sharpie and mark the flanges so I can reinstall exactly how it came apart.

Auto part Automotive fuel system


The driveshaft has enough space to be pushed aside so you can access the flange nut. Before removing the nut, Mark the nut and the flange so you can retighten the flange nut precisely where it was. This nut is tightened from the factory against a crush washer inside to provide a precise amount of lash in the gears. You cannot "retorque" this nut - rather you should only put it back right where it was.

Auto part


The flange nut played a trick on me resulting in a bunch of wasted time. It is a 30mm nut, and I only have an impact (thick walled) socket in that size. My impact socket was not even close to being thin enough to fit, so I hopped in my trusty e46 and headed to Autozone to rent a socket. Unfortunately, the AZ socket was still too thick to fit. I ran around to several stores with my dial caliper in hand searching for a socket thin enough to work. Finally, I resorted to buying a 12 pt socket and grinding it down to fit. After that, I was able to remove the nut with my 1/2 impact wrench. As the nut came out, this extra random piece cam with it. I have no idea what the purpose of this piece is, but it fooled me into thinking I needed an ultra-thin walled socket. This piece slips over the head of the nut. You should remove this piece before removing the nut and then you should be able to use a normal 30 mm socket without grinding like I did. See,... that little tidbit alone was worth the cost of admission to this post!

Metal Auto part Household hardware Nut Ring


The flange came out with a simple pry of my big screwdriver. Yours could be stuck requiring a puller, but it's a splined slip fit, so it shouldn't take much to get it off. I pried the old seal out with a big screwdriver, cleaned up the flange with some dull emory cloth, then greased up the new seal and used the flange and old seal to help drive the new seal into place with my brass hammer. I couldn't quite get it driven all the way mostly due to limited space for my hammer swing. I finished it up by tapping around the circumference with my hammer until the seal was flush all the way around.

Auto part Wheel


Auto part Disc brake Automotive wheel system Metal Wheel


Auto part Nut


Tighten the flange nut back to where it was, and reinstall the stuff you removed for access.

I plan to spray the diff with degreaser and wash it off so it's not so grungy. Then I'll let my wife drive it for a couple days before changing the fluid. That way any contaminants can be sucked out with the old fluid.

AZ has the best option I've found for differential fluid. They carry Chevron Delo 75w/90 for $5.99/qt. It's a full synthetic gear oil sans the LS friction modifiers which our diffs don't need. At that price, you can change your diff fluid with every motor oil change!

Hope this write up helps someone. I appreciate all the others on here who have shared their experiences with various jobs. It really helps to know what you're getting into beforehand.

AM.
 
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