BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

Wont start!

15K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  Freakusaurus 
#1 ·
My 1999 323i wont start. Very strong battery (13.5v running, 12.7v not running). No clicking sound. Tried valet key as well. Starts perfectly after 7 or more tries (starting to be more tries lately). This happens when the car is cold and also when hot. "Stealership" said I needed a manually adjust steering column (32303450159) $464, and a lock with key code (32300002736) $125. I ordered and paid for the parts which will be installed on 10 Mar. We'll see... Any suggestions?
 
#3 · (Edited)
Fixed

Joe M3 thanks for your response. The following is what eventually happened. On a friends recommendation (he owns an A8), I retrieved the parts from the stealership and took them to another mechanic (recommended by him) for installation. This was a small shop with maybe 5 highly qualified guys and a manager. I explained the situation to the mechanic who then went to work re-diagnosing the problem AFTER the BMW tech told me to buy all these expensive parts! He determined that I needed a $90 part (61326901961). This part is actually attached to the left side of the steering column as you face the steering wheel. We went to the stealer to get it, returned the steering column (32303450159), and lock with key code (32300002736), installed the $90 part and the car fired right up. No problems since. The dealer didn't even remove the panel below the steering wheel! That's what the tech that I went to did, to see that there was a short in the Ignition switch (61326901961). He charged me $75 for labor and I was on my way ($165 total):thumbup:. Here is a photo of the part that I needed.

P.S., I didn't even mention the fact that I would have paid $299 for installation at the stealership! ($464 + $125 + $299 = $848):thumbdwn:
 

Attachments

#4 ·
My 1999 323i wont start. Very strong battery (13.5v running, 12.7v not running). No clicking sound. Tried valet key as well. Starts perfectly after 7 or more tries (starting to be more tries lately). This happens when the car is cold and also when hot. "Stealership" said I needed a manually adjust steering column (32303450159) $464, and a lock with key code (32300002736) $125. I ordered and paid for the parts which will be installed on 10 Mar. We'll see... Any suggestions?


Follow up:

The following is what eventually happened. On a friends recommendation (he owns an A8), I retrieved the parts from the stealership and took them to another mechanic (recommended by him) for installation. This was a small shop with maybe 5 highly qualified guys and a manager. I explained the situation to the mechanic who then went to work re-diagnosing the problem AFTER the BMW tech told me to buy all these expensive parts! He determined that I needed a $90 part (61326901961). This part is actually attached to the left side of the steering column as you face the steering wheel. We went to the stealer to get it, returned the steering column (32303450159), and lock with key code (32300002736), installed the $90 part and the car fired right up. No problems since. The dealer didn't even remove the panel below the steering wheel! That's what the tech that I went to did, to see that there was a short in the Ignition switch (61326901961). He charged me $75 for labor and I was on my way ($165 total):thumbup:. Here is a photo of the part that I needed.

P.S., I didn't even mention the fact that I would have paid $299 for installation at the stealership! ($464 + $125 + $299 = $848) :thumbdwn:
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Intermittent Start/no Start

After messing with the battery, replacing the starter I found the problem with the Start/No Start symptom was with the Steering Wheel Column Ignition switch, I took it out and took it apart and found the contacts for the starting cable were burned at the contact points (similar to points on old cars). The contacts were not completely burned but enough to cause the car to start sometimes and not at other times. My issue was when I turned the key to start the car the starter would turn the car sometimes and other times the car would not even turn, and that's even after I replaced starter. After I sanded down the contact points and put everything back together the car starts every time. I will give it a week and if continues to work without any issues I will buy the part, replacing the part is very easy, you only need a phillips screw driver to take the steering wheel cover off. The part is on the bottom left side of the steering wheel . Here is the part number if anyone is having any issues with the car not turning the starter. BMW part number 61326901961.
 
#7 ·
won't start!

I have a similar problem. My 2003 325xi will not start. Lights are on, accessory mode comes on fine. Does nothing when I turn key to try to start. I've read in many threads that it could be the starter, but would that come out of nowhere or gradually start to happen? I've also read that it could be the ignition switch in the steering wheel column. Any other possibilities this could be? or any way I can rule something out? Can I test the starter without taking everything apart?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
#8 · (Edited)
If the battery is good and the starter sounds fine when it does start I would check the steering ignition switch. It's much easier to change out the switch than it is to change out the starter. I changed out my starter but it turned out the steering switch was bad. My issue was sometimes the car would start fine then other times it seemed like the starter was bad, the starter didn't turn almost like the battery was dead but dash lights checked out fine and so did the battery. I tried charging the battery over night, same problem. The problem for me was the ignition switch, the switch has contacts that turn when you turn the key to provide voltage to the starter, when I took the switch apart I notice some oxidation on the contacts, I cleaned up the contact points with some fine sand paper and I haven't had a problems since. Next time I'll change out the part, found it online for about 60.00 but I didn't want to mess with it until it goes bad again. It's been about 7 months and I haven't had any starting problems since. BTW, if you decide to change out the starter I suggest you set aside whole weekend, what a pain to get out. As for testing the starter I don't see how you would get to it with out taking the intake and hoses to get to it. If you have a good battery I would look at the ignition switch first, it's the easiest to check/replace at the very least and if your careful you can take it apart to look at the contacts and check for oxidation, I would suggest you take pictures of the switch if your going to take it apart. There's not much to the switch assembly but it can be put together incorrectly if your not careful and your car will NOT start, plus from what i can remember there was a spring or two. Good luck.
 
#9 ·
Thank you so much for your information. I just finished trying this. I checked the contacts and did not see any oxidation or anything that would mess with the connection. I'm not sure what else to try. I guess I need to move on to the starter.. I wasn't thinking that a starter would just go out of nowhere.. Do you know if there is any kind of security feature that wouldn't allow starting? My key unlocks and locks the doors remotely, so wouldn't think it would be a key issue.. I've tried both keys in the ignition. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!
 
#10 ·
So if i understand you correctly you took out the ignition switch and took the plastic switch housing apart? The inside of the ignition housing has copper contacts and I'm surprised that you mentioned there was no burn marks or oxidation on the contacts since there is contact movement when you turn the key. If so there could be a possibility it's your computer or starter. If you have 12 volts and the car doesn't at least try to turn over I would look at the starter next. BTW, here is a link to rebuilding the ignition switch, this give a better understanding of what I was trying to get across.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1539722-Ignition-Switch-Rebuild-DIY
 
#14 ·
Sorry for the delayed response/conclusion. It ended up being the starter. Which boggled my mind because I hadn't had any hesitation in starting her up leading up to the problem. Yes, it was a pain to change. Although I will mention I did not take off the intake manifold to get to. It was a tricky part to get to, but felt very satisfying after all was said and done. Thanks again to all that helped the process of elimination!


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#15 ·
What wrench did you guys use to get the main starter bolts off with? Somewhere, I recall someone saying that they got a wrench from Sears, but I'm not finding the post again. Pivot-head wratcheting e-star wrenches are not just found everywhere... ;-)

Keyword tag: starter replace wrench ratchet star e-star pivot
 
#17 ·
What wrench did you guys use to get the main starter bolts off with? Somewhere, I recall someone saying that they got a wrench from Sears, but I'm not finding the post again. Pivot-head wratcheting e-star wrenches are not just found everywhere... ;-)

Keyword tag: starter replace wrench ratchet star e-star pivot
I used 10mm 12point ratcheting wrench. Picked one up from local ace hardware store. Also, would recommend putting solenoid wires on before installing starter.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#16 · (Edited)
#18 ·
I am currently having the same issue with my car as of a little bit ago. I am at work right now. The car started up fine and I drove here this morning. That was at 6am central time. At 9am I went out to my car and it wouldn't start. Everything powers up. The car has 12v . The roof works. .. everything. . But when I turn the key, nothing happens. No sound, no clicking, no attempts to turn over. I tried the key a few times. .. Maybe twice before in the year and a half I have owned the car it has done this, but always started on the second time of turning the key. ... At noon I went back to my car and tried some more. Car still won't do anything..
Does this sound like the issue you were having with the ignition switch or do you believe it is more likely the starter or what. .. Any suggestions. . I am the working poor people speak of do I will have to do the work myself. Gonna have to tow the car home and likely miss work tomorrow.
 
#19 ·
Wow I'm dealing with the same symptoms is this common. So far I've removed the intake and found there's no power to the terminal on the starter that the ignition controls when starting. I'm going to bring the starter to be tested. Can't hurt right. I'm getting a new ignition switch if the starter is good. I've checked all of the fuses in the box and made sure all battery connections are tight. The battery was also replaced. The key is fine I think but I'll replace the battery in that as well. I replaced the wire harness also while doing the starter. How do I know if the ignition switch is still good. Is there anything else someone can suggest to do. I have so much money and time put into this car I can't even consider not fixing this. I have swapped the motor and transmission gaskets, radiator/ heater hoses, vacuum lines and hoses, motor mounts belts, and so much more. I've had the whole car apart it seems. Also to answer the question of which socket you need to remove the starter bolts it's called an inverted torx and the size is E14 you might get lucky with a ten millimeter wrench or socket.
 
#21 ·
replaced the ignition switch and the battery... still not starting. . . . I guess I have to change the starter next. . . and from what I seen on here I'm guessing it won't be as easy as on my 69 Chevy Belair or 98 Firebird.
Not even close. Very doable though. You have a choice of going through the top or bottom. Search for both DIYs. Each have their challenges and advantages.
 
#24 ·
I'm trying to do it from the top, but I am in no means a mechanic.... I started about 4 hours ago... took 3 bicycle trips to stores and stuff to grab tools and whatever... and I still haven't got the intake manifold off yet... there is not a single video on youtube of anyone taking the manifold off. . . . all the videos either show it already off or the engine out of the car. . . I am undoing every bolt I see, but damn I'm lost.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top