BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

Introduction to my newish 530i...

125K views 544 replies 62 participants last post by  Albo 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been beating around the bush here for a few months and thought I'd do a formal "Intro Thread"

Here's the info and some pics from when I bought her:

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/833213











Here she is today after all the upgrades in my signature.. You'll note the two-tone I've got going on in the rear deck. I just repainted it with some Dupli-Color Fabric & Vinyl Paint. Came out great. Also just added a JL Audio 10w6 subwoofer in a sealed box being pushed by a 300W Orion Amp. Sound is much rounder now...just the way I like it..:)





















Just crossed over 76,000 miles so a full tune-up is in process. Many more upgrades to come as well... M5 Bumpers and Exhaust are next....after I replace the Torque Converter. Also....does anyone know anyone that can straighten and refinish my LM Replicas? They've taken a beating unfortunately...:cry:

This is my 7th BMW, but I plan on keeping this one for a looooong time!
 
See less See more
15
#517 · (Edited)
Installed some HAWK HPS Brake Pads on the existing Power Stop drilled rotors (on inspection it looked like they still had plenty of meat on them). Inspected all brake hoses as well...everything looked good.

While I had the wheels off, I thought I'd play around with the 15mm spacers I have. The rears are nearly flush with the fender and the fronts poke out just a bit. There is some rubbing in the rear (when driving over some bumps) so I'll need to roll the fenders (have the tool...just never got around to doing it) or maybe try smaller spacers. Also need to get lower profile tires as the 245/40/18's seem kinda chunky...especially in the front as they are slightly stretched in the rear.







 
#518 ·
Performed a stud conversion while I removed the 15mm spacers (sold to a member on another forum).



 
#524 ·
Thanks for the compliments guys. Sorry...I haven't really posted in a while. The headlights were purchased from a seller on eBay. They are Depo P39's with LED AE's.

Came home from a recent weekend trip to find this:



Something seem missing?
 
#527 ·
Love looking at the progression of this thread from beginning to "end"/current status...

iMHO, I am sorta glad it went missing...
Love pretty much everything you ve done to your car, but sometimes, you just gotta know when to stop and be satisfied with what you have already...
 
#525 · (Edited)
Also... there is a Power Steering Leak. Likely the High Pressure lines. With 123,000 miles on the clock, I think they likely need attention.
 
#526 · (Edited)
Ok.... High Pressure PS hose and two Reservoir hoses ordered form OEMBimmerparts.com. It seems like a slow enough leak so I can keep driving, but now I've also got a coolant leak somewhere. Infuriating considering I just replaced the ENTIRE cooling system, but there it is. I don't see any residue on any hoses, but there are spots on the Zionsville's expansion tank so maybe there is a structural problem. I'm going to have watch the area with the engine under some load to look for spray.

This weekend maybe,

In other news....common problem with the E90 LCI 3-Series is the outer LED Taillights tend to fail causing a tell-tale fast blink and error message. Swapped in a brand new outer light in about ten minutes. If it only cost $10, I'd be jumping for joy.

Old light removed (One plug and three nuts):



New Light:





No finished product pic, but you get the idea..
 
#529 ·
Well I've been driving with that PS Leak along with a slow coolant leak. **** hit the fan today, though.. Dying alternator.

I stopped at a Starbucks this morning to pick up a Flat White...got back in the car and it took half a second longer to start. I played around with my phone for a few minutes and then looked up to see the trifecta on the instrument cluster. Hoping that it was temporary glitch, i shut the car off and restarted. No start...just clicking from the starter. Called my father for a ride back home to pick up some diagnostic tools. I used my Innova Cigarette Lighter Voltage tester to verify voltage at the battery.

Car Off: 8.9v - Oye Vay!!
Car Jumped at idle: - 12.3v - Not Good
Car driving after 20 minutes of charging with my dad''s car - 13.5v

At no point on my drive home did the voltage go higher than 13.51 volts.

It would seem that the alternator is not providing sufficient charge. Luckily a local O'Reilly's had a replacement Bosch alternator (and at a good price, too).


So that'll all happen tomorrow.
 
#530 ·
Well I've been driving with that PS Leak along with a slow coolant leak. **** hit the fan today, though.. Dying alternator.

I stopped at a Starbucks this morning to pick up a Flat White...got back in the car and it took half a second longer to start. I played around with my phone for a few minutes and then looked up to see the trifecta on the instrument cluster. Hoping that it was temporary glitch, i shut the car off and restarted. No start...just clicking from the starter. Called my father for a ride back home to pick up some diagnostic tools. I used my Innova Cigarette Lighter Voltage tester to verify voltage at the battery.

Car Off: 8.9v - Oye Vay!!
Car Jumped at idle: - 12.3v - Not Good
Car driving after 20 minutes of charging with my dad''s car - 13.5v

At no point on my drive home did the voltage go higher than 13.51 volts.

It would seem that the alternator is not providing sufficient charge. Luckily a local O'Reilly's had a replacement Bosch alternator (and at a good price, too).


So that'll all happen tomorrow.
 
#531 ·
Late Update. ... the Alternator replacement went swimmingly. In reality ...it only took me about 20 minutes (including installing the new Hydraulic belt Tensioner). Problem solved! Charging system is working at full capacity. Also managed to track down the source of my slow coolant leak. My brand new Whaler-brand thermostat housing was steadily weeping fluid leading to a constant cycle of fill/empty. The solution? A new thermostat assembly. Actually...an OLD thermostat assembly. I had this NLA Aluminum thermostat lying around from back when they were available. I no longer remember where I purchased it from, but it's the same one that once was sold by ECS Tuning. As I recall, the reviews were "hit or miss", so I never used it. I decided ot give it a try and for the last 500 miles it's been working great.



In addition... I didn't have "the itch"...I swear, but Craigslist had a different idea:



Also...managed to track down the source of my oil leak ( I hope). The oil level sensor in the bottom of the oil pan seems to be spraying all over the place. Even on to the Cat-Con. Heading into the Garage to R&R now.

I leave you with these (Centercaps on the way):







M-Parallel Replicas
18X8 (+13mm) 5x120
18X9.5 (+25mm) 5x120

245/40/18 on all four corners as I love the stretched look on the rear.....like a set of tight Yoga paints on a beautiful woman.

Ok...time to go to work...then it's WASH!
 
#532 · (Edited)
Late Update. ... the Alternator replacement went swimmingly. In reality ...it only took me about 20 minutes (including installing the new Hydraulic belt Tensioner). Problem solved! Charging system is working at full capacity. Also managed to track down the source of my slow coolant leak. My brand new Whaler-brand thermostat housing was steadily weeping fluid leading to a constant cycle of fill/empty. The solution? A new thermostat assembly. Actually...an OLD thermostat assembly. I had this NLA Aluminum thermostat lying around from back when they were available. I no longer remember where I purchased it from, but it's the same one that once was sold by ECS Tuning. As I recall, the reviews were "hit or miss", so I never used it. I decided ot give it a try and for the last 500 miles it's been working great.



In addition... I didn't have "the itch"...I swear, but Craigslist had a different idea:



Also...managed to track down the source of my oil leak ( I hope). The oil level sensor in the bottom of the oil pan seems to be spraying all over the place. Even on to the Cat-Con. Heading into the Garage to R&R now.

I leave you with these (Centercaps on the way):







M-Parallel Replicas
18X8 (+13mm) 5x120
18X9.5 (+25mm) 5x120

12mm spacers used in conjunction with a stud adapter kit.



245/40/18 on all four corners as I love the stretched look on the rear.....like a set of tight Yoga paints on a beautiful woman.

Ok...time to go to work...then it's WASH!
 
#533 ·
Came across this neat pic a buddy took not too long ago:

 
#534 · (Edited)
Work done. ....or so I thought. Swapped out the oil level sensor with no problems. Refilled the old girl with fresh oil and took her for a drive to drop some stuff off at the in-laws house. Got back in the car while leaving their house and guess what? No instrument cluster. No AC, either.

Actually...I should clarify. They both seem to be getting power. Fan blows, but no compressor cooling. Turn signal lights turn on in the cluster, but stay solid instead of blinking.

Thankfully everything works on the outside. No speedo, tach, fuel or temp gauge.

I'm thinking its the ignition switch acting up. Thankfully I have one.
 
#535 ·
Ok ... so the ignition switch that I had on hand turned out to be the wrong part. I had it laying around from my e38 days. They are very similar in appearance but have some form factor differences that make them incompatible. Order a new one from Amazon:



I had another steering related DIY to perform, so here we go:

Disconnect Battery:



Move to cockpit:



Open the "Clamshell"... I had other work to do in this area so I completely removed the steering wheel. Two T25 Torx Screws retain the Airbag and then One 17mm Bolt hold the Steering Wheel in place.





To the problem at hand... there are Two T25 bolts holding a support bracket in position to lock the Ignition Switch in place. One is accessible under the switch and one is on the left side above and beyond the switch.



Below:



Left/Above:



This is the Harness connected to the switch in situ. Note that I've pulled out the retaining latch for Harness removal:



Harness removed and pull above the column for easier access to the Left Retaining Bolt:





Now that the Retaining Bolts are removed, the bracket can be separated from the main assembly. This will expose two small bolt holes that will be cover in red paint on the underside of the switch (directly behind the Lower Retaining Bolt). The first can be seen just here (paint already scraped off):



Take special care with these tow screws. They are meant to be only loosened... NOT FULLY REMOVED. Loosening both will result in this:







Old on the Left and New on the Right:



Reassembly is everything in reverse order:



I celebrated by installing my newly acquired e46 M3 SMG steering wheel with Aluminum Extended Paddles:



 
#536 · (Edited)
Double Post
 
#538 ·
Are your referring to the ACS's in my signature pic or the M-Parallel Replicas?
 
#541 · (Edited)
This may have come in the mail today:

 
#544 · (Edited)
Just 'cuz....

 
#545 ·
Just messing about with my new phone (LG G4):

 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top