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Might we be able to list, with pics (realoem diagrams ok) of ALL E39 vacuum lines?

198K views 61 replies 21 participants last post by  wiredawg100 
#1 ·
This is a thread asking everyone to pitch in by identifying a vacuum hose each, both ends, and what it does, please (pretty please).

While I was researching to help on this thread where the common vacuum leak was being debugged:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Rough Idle

The obvious question came up:
... is there a diagram I can look at so I can see all the hoses and start replacing them?
Then I realized we don't (to my knowledge) have a comprehensive thread containing a diagram and/or a picture identifying ALL the vacuum hoses (and where they go on each end) of the E39.

Since there are a LOT of vacuum issues (I have one myself), it would be valuable to have a complete outline of all the vacuum hoses.

It can be done. For example, we (the tribal we) did it together for the CCV (outlining all the hoses & all end points, with pictures & diagrams):
- Diagrams & pictures of all points of the E39 crankcase ventilation system (1)

Would people kindly pitch in and help us list all the vacuum hoses in the E39 engine bay?

  • Name & description would be nice, including perhaps the function, if known
  • Photo or diagram would be nice, particularly if it shows the end points
Here, for example, are pictures of both ends of the broken vacuum hose in the aforementioned "rough idle" thread, which, I, for one, have no idea where it goes & what it does.



If each of us pitches in with a picture of the end points & a description of just one vacuum hose in the E39 engine bay, we'd have a useful reference for all!
 

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#2 ·
I ended up changing that hose piece, and all 6 sparkplugs to find out that the main problem might be the hose on top of that, only cost me about $0.87 from autozone to get that hose he said that usually happens because the precut is a bit small and from excessive pulling, tugging, and heat it gets brittle to the point it just falls apart.. so i'll be going to autozone to hopefully change the top part of that vacuum hose on the intake i'll get back with the results thanks for all the help.
 
#3 ·
M54 engine - The Secondary Air Pump valve (Part #4) below has given me issues in the past although it is not related to the intake manifold. This vacuum hose actuates the SAP valve. Because it is positioned alongside the valve cover, it is exposed to the heat from the exhaust manifold, which makes it very brittle over time. Whenever I have replaced a valve cover gasket (as part of the Vanos seal replacement), this hose always cracks when you move the hose and O2 sensor wires out of the way. You only need about 6" of vacuum hose to connect the plastic hose portion (#3) to the SAP valve (#1).
 

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#6 ·
#7 ·
Today, after reading a battling-vacuum-leaks thread, I added the following to the bestlinks for future reference (and improvement):

- How to diagnose a BMW E39 engine misfire (1) & how to battle E39 vacuum leaks (1) (2) (3) & how to solve specific vacuum leak diagnostic trouble codes such as P0171, P0174, P0313 (1) & P0170, P0173 (1)
 
#9 ·
Searching for a vacuum hose diagram and came across this. I know one vacuum line has been replaced but I don't know which one or where. I throw lean codes on cold mornings again so I know it is vacuum. Just bumping the thread for others to see or add!!
 
#10 · (Edited)
Searching for a vacuum hose diagram and came across this
E39 vacuum hose overhaul:

If we could find a list of all the E39 vacuum hoses, (or create it), then we might be able to buy replacement tubing at the local autoparts store, in bulk, and simply cut lengths to fit.

QUESTION:
Q: Is there only one vacuum hose size (ID/OD) & material (rubber?) or are there multiple sizes & materials for the vacuum hoses in the E39?

BUMP: See also this new thread just now:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > M54 vacuum hoses ... what diameter ... what brand ... what material ... what length?



 
#11 · (Edited)
It looks like it will cost about $300 to replace all the M54-engine vacuum lines at the dealer at just the Realoem nominal prices (and even worse at the three Silicon Valley BMW dealers who are often twice or three times Realoem nominal prices).
- M54 vacuum hoses ... what diameter ... what brand ... what material ... what length?

But, at least we should list the hoses, the sizes, and the part numbers for others to benefit.

Q: Is this the complete diagramatic list of related vacuum hoses (for the M54 reference engine anyway)?

Please let us know which diagrams are missing (for the M54 reference engine).

  1. Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system
  2. Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL
  3. Engine => Exhaust manifold => EMISSION CONTROL-AIR PUMP
  4. Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator
  5. Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine
  6. Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE
  7. Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator
  8. Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => Hot-film air mass meter
  9. Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => VALVES/PIPES OF FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
  10. What other Realoem diagrams show M54-engine vacuum-related tubes, pipes, hoses, encaps, & o-rings?
Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system


Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL


Engine => Exhaust manifold => EMISSION CONTROL-AIR PUMP


Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator


Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine


Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE


Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator
 

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#12 · (Edited)
Awesome; the vacuum lines in these cars are a dog's regurgitated breakfast, especially in the V8. The I6 is a lot simpler, I think, but having a comprehensive map is always good. Similar to the cooling and suspension overhauls, it's good to have a list of every part, so that when you're chasing a vacuum leak you can just have at it and replace all the hoses, and realize that the whole time it was the intake boot elbow (or something like that)!

The hoses that aren't standard vacuum hose size are, as far as I know, a BMW part #, but in some cases it'll be possible to replace them with generic rubber hose of OD x and ID y. They aren't supposed to be exposed to any gasoline, oil, or coolant, so the key function is water- and airtightness and temperature resistance. They don't even need to be particularly flexible, provided they don't collapse on themselves.
 
#13 · (Edited)
it's good to have a list of every part
To that end, here is, as far as I can construct, the list of those generic vacuum hoses above:

Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system

  • #15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
  • #17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32" ID)
Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

  • 04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
  • 03 VACUUM PIPE 1 11727574490 $27.94 (one piece)
  • 07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
  • 09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)
Engine => Exhaust manifold => EMISSION CONTROL-AIR PUMP

  • 05 PRESSURE HOSE ASSY 1 11721435456 $22.73
Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator

  • 13 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 11727545323 $14.82
  • 11 Hose 1 13321437801 $24.87
Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine

  • 02 Hose elbow 1 11617503666 $8.17
  • 03 Hose elbow 1 11617547582 $17.25
Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE

  • 03 fuel tank breather line 1 13907557924 $27.77
  • 04 fuel tank breather line 1 13907504303 $27.77
Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

  • 02 Vent pipe 1 11611432559 $25.73
  • 03 Connecting line 1 11617504535 $33.87
  • 04 Vent hose 1 11157532649 $15.37
  • 06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 ? 11727545323 $14.82 (not on all E39s)
  • 07 Return pipe 1 11617504536 $33.87
Total vacuum hose nominal cost sans CCV system = $186.45 (assuming $5 for the vacuum cap); $310.11 if you add the CCV hoses; and $367.74 if you add the CCV valve (plus 8.75% sales tax).

QUESTION: Are there any 'other' M54 vacuum hoses that we missed?

NOTE: This size chart is from here:
 
#15 ·
Same diagrams as in the E46, but they also are wrong (for the E46). In the third diagram down titled "Vacuum control - Engine" shows an elbow #6 which in reality is the "F" connector on most E46's.

In the fifth diagram down, hose #6 on the CCV has been blocked off on newer units, esp. on the cold weather cludge fix. (I've been meaning to post where these now go, but...)

You asked in this pic -


You circled #4 from diagram one - "Air Pump F Vacuum Control."

Use NAPA orange silicone vacuum hose. This won't deteriorate. (I'd show pictures and part numbers but I've run out of time.)

BTW part #3 (at least on my E46) is a plastic "non-flex" tube that shouldn't deteriorate.

(And sorry if offend any M5 purists with E46 info.)
 
#17 ·
#18 · (Edited)
I'm finding it more difficult than one would think to simply find the ends of some of these vacuum hoses:
- How to find the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum hoses (1)

But, in doing my research, I found this Poolman thread which shows yet another spot to look for to locate vacuum leaks:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Battling Vacuum Leaks

Just found a new spot to check when looking for vacuum leaks.

Under the cover on top of the engine hiding the injectors -- there is a lattice-looking part that runs to the top of the intake and goes to each runner -- that's the runner that bring whatever blow by that's coming thru the engine, back into the manifold to be consumed by the engine. There are plastic tubes coming from the oil separator to this part.

Now with the cover off, I noticed there are little tubes coming off of this part going down into the top of the intake manifold--one at each runner.

I presume there is a rubber 0 ring on each part to seal it all from vacuum leaks.

I got the idea to take a straw and fill it with water and let the water drain into each area around where the tubes fit into the intake. With water filling the crevice around each of these little tubes. I cranked the car--on each and every tube the water sat there just as I had filled the area.

On the very back though I noticed that there wasn't any water sitting on top. I cut off the engine got my straw out again and tried to fill the back part again with water--it wouldn't fill --water just drained down into the intake there.

Thats a vacuum leak for sure
--now I gotta figure out how to seal it.---This also means that that back cylinder is most likely running a little lean at times. Below is a picture with the red area where my leak lies.

 

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#19 · (Edited)
In keeping with the pictorial nature of this thread locating all vacuum hoses & ports on the E39 ... and because the realoem diagrams are woefully inadequate for vacuum hoses ...

This thread has a nice picture of the rubber boots:
- Detailed DIY for Crankcase Ventilation Valve Overhaul for the M52TU Motor

Notice the distinctly DIFFERENT shapes and ports in the various engines:


Here is a Fudman E39 530i rubber boot from this thread:
- Replacement of the CCV on M54

 

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#20 ·
Pictures of all three vacuum endcaps in the E39

Because of the ambiguity of the realoemm endcap diagrams ... I'm only slowly finding pictures for the locations for the (up to) THREE vacuum endcaps.

Note: If you already have a picture or diagram of these (up to) three vacuum endcaps, please post.

  • This diagram loosely intimates there is one capped vacuum port:
  • This diagram outright says there are three capped vacuum ports:
I 'think' pictures or diagrams of those three vacuum endcaps might be:

1) #17, 7mm (between 17/64" & 19/32") endcap for the M54 engine rear vacuum port:


2) #15, 3.5mm endcap (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID) for the CCV valve vacuum port.

I CAN NOT FIND ANY DIAGRAMS OR PICTURES ON THE WEB OF THIS CCV ENDCAP!

3) #15, 3.5mm endcap (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID) for the air pump vacuum port if you don't have an air pump (see details from Steve on this below).

The three capped-off vacuum ports might be explained here:
Parts required are:
- 3.3mm Vacuum hose, part # 11657803732 (order a metre of it)
- 7mm Cap for an unused vacuum port, part # 11611727176
- 3.5mm Cap IF you don't have the air pump (see below), part # 11611437560 (you may need a couple of these ...)
...
Not all M54 engines have the air pump ... if you don't have it, you will have a small blanking cap at the back of the manifold. Replace the blanking cap (3.5mm one) as they perish / split over time. ...
...
Beside the above connection / blanking cap, there will be a bigger vacuum cap (7mm) - replace this too, as they're even worse for splitting / perishing.
...
Next, there's a 3.3mm vacuum line going to the vacuum reservoir located very awkwardly next to the starter motor. This vacuum reservoir provides a constant vacuum (if required) for the exhaust flap IF you have one. Mine is disconnected, so I stripped out this hose & plugged the port on the inlet mainfold. However, if you want to keep the thing in operation, replace this hose too with the 3.3mm vacuum hose. If you don't have the vacuum reservoir / flap, replace the 3.5mm plug like for like (part no. 11611437560).

...
Under the inlet manifold, tucked away above the throttle body, is the oil separator valve (cyclone, CCV, whatever you want to call it). On older models, this had a vacuum hose attached to it, the other end of which was connected to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail at the top front of the engine. This diagram shows the valve, the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator being part # 6: ... The M54 engine saw the fuel pressure regulator change positions, and it was integrated in the fuel filter underneath the car. As BMW didn't want to develop a whole new oil separator valve, they simply capped the redundant vacuum port with a blanking cap. So part 6 on the M54 cars is a blanking cap, which again can split, and should be replaced where possible (difficult access) by part # 11611437560. Real OEM & dealers are unclear on this, so trust me.
NOTE: This endcap is variously termed as a:
- Rubber bunge
- Vacuum endcap
- Cap
- Blanking cap
 
#21 ·
Steve530 replaced all his 1/8" ID vacuum tubing with Viton of 1/8" ID with 1/8" thick walls from McMaster-Carr just today (using up a bit more than 2½ feet).

He reported (over here) that there is yet another error in the M54 realoem diagram.

Here is his annotation that fixes the error by coloring in yellow the rigid vacuum pipe (1/8" OD) which curves around the back of the engine to connect to the short length of vacuum tubing (1/8" ID) that connects to the SAP electrical valve.

 
#22 ·
Thanks to Doru, there are some 7x3mm manifold vacuum and 7,52X3 or 9,2X2 fuel-injection related o-rings we need to add to the list which already contains the necessary 3.5x1.8mm, 3.3x1.8mm & 7mm ID vacuum tubing (single material), vacuum hoses (multiple material), 3.3mm OD curved vacuum pipes (rigid tubes), 3.5mm & 7mm ID vacuum endcaps (closed end) in the E39 engine bay

- Fuel injector o-ring cleaning and maintenance (1) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT43&mospid=47584&btnr=13_0900&hg=13&fg=15

 
#23 · (Edited)
Here is a summary of what we've found, so far for vacuum-leak related pipes, hoses, tubes, caps, & O-rings:

  1. Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system
    • #15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
    • #17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32" ID)
    • 06 O-ring 7X3 Qty=6 PN=11617502761 $0.8
    • 07 DISA Adjuster unit Q=1 PN=11617544806 $212.50 (the vacuum valves can go bad)
    • DISA O-ring
      • M52TU #11617504543 OEM size 50mm ID x 3.5mm thick x 57mm OD
      • M54 Chemgigi O-ring aftermarket 51mm ID x 2.5mm thick x 56mm OD
  2. Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL
    • 04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
    • 03 VACUUM PIPE 1 11727574490 $27.94 (one piece)
    • 07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
    • 09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)
  3. Engine => Exhaust manifold => EMISSION CONTROL-AIR PUMP
    • 05 PRESSURE HOSE ASSY 1 11721435456 $22.73
  4. Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator
    • 13 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 11727545323 $14.82
    • 11 Hose 1 13321437801 $24.87
  5. Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine
    • 02 Hose elbow 1 11617503666 $8.17
    • 03 Hose elbow 1 11617547582 $17.25
  6. Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE
    • 03 fuel tank breather line 1 13907557924 $27.77
    • 04 fuel tank breather line 1 13907504303 $27.77
  7. Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator
    • 02 Vent pipe 1 11611432559 $25.7303 Connecting line 1 11617504535 $33.87
    • 04 Vent hose 1 11157532649 $15.37
    • 06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 ? 11727545323 $14.82 (not on all E39s; the M54 has an endcap as shown earlier)
    • 07 Return pipe 1 11617504536 $33.87
  8. Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => Hot-film air mass meter
    • 03 Rubber boot Q=1 PN=13541435625 $28.30
  9. Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => VALVES/PIPES OF FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
    • 04 O-ring; 7,52X3,52; Q=6; PN=13641437487; $3.75
    • 05 O-ring; 9,2X2,8; Q=6; PN=13641437486; $3.75
  10. What other Realoem diagrams show M54-engine vacuum-related tubes, pipes, hoses, encaps, & o-rings?
Do we have any vacuum-related GASKETS to list?
- What specific gaskets could be a cause of vacuum-related or lean-misfire codes?
 
#24 ·
#36 · (Edited)
For the record, we just updated the purge valve diagram above based on 16valex' and JimLev's clarifications over here:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > EVAP Purge Valve Flow.
See also:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Purge control valve vac hose help!


By way of cross reference, folks over in this thread today were pondering the same questions we already answered in this thread. Too bad they didn't find this thread, whose whole purpose was to answer the questions BEFORE they're asked! :)

While wrestling out the older valve the vac tube that goes to the intake maniford or throttle body came out. I can't for the life of me find where it goes. I've searched the board and I even called bav auto and they got me the picture; it the same pic that I found on realoem.com. Still no luck!

Any help is appreicated; trying to get her back together; so its the end that allows the vapor to be burned by the engine when the valve opens up. I appreciate any help.

Chad
where does the number 3 hose connect at?
cn90 i'm good with the ccv, oil seperator. I need to know about the purge control valve or evap sensor hose routing right behind the power steering holding tank
I didn't see anything in fudman i'm checking jason5driver
EVAP system in all cars is very similar.
Hose #3 simply connects to the intake, either upstream or downstream of the throttle plate.
Use a mirror to look for the nipple in the intake throttle housing.
Or run engine and listen for hissing (sucking) noise, you will be able to locate the nipple.
page 3 of jason5driver 4 picture down is what I was looking for! Once i get this back together The last thing i need to figure out is why my care is cutting out at high rpm on full throttle but thats for another day!
 
#25 · (Edited)
My turn for misfires due to air/vacuum leaks.

I'm in the shop right now (Ray's Ultimate BMW in Santa Clara, CA) for the $150 smoke diagnostic test.
They removed all the rubber & plastic housings from the engine air filter back to the windshield, including the cabin air filter.
They left only the large rubber boot connected to the ICV, which they put a latex glove over the 6 inch opening.
Then they removed the endcap on the back of the M54 where they hooked up the smoke machine.

Looking from under the car, smoke immediately was coming out of the lower CCV hose (which had a half-inch crack in it).
[ I wonder why/how it passed my CCV test - I probably didn't look hard enough! ]

They quickly replaced the lower CCV hose ($100) and running the smoke test again.
[ I thought the CCV was hard to get to but they said they didn't have to remove anything. ]

They said they visually saw a crack in the small bent finger in the rubber boot connected to the ICV.
They were going to charge me over $200 to replace that $20 boot when I put a stop to this nonsense.
[ In hindsight, I should not have paid them $100 to replace the lower CCV hose! ]

I picked up the $20 ICV rubber boot at the stealer instead of paying the $200 for someone else to do it for me.
[ I'll need three cold-start drive cycles to erase the MIL. ]

By the way, with a smoke machine, they make this look so simple to debug!
[ In double hindsight, I should have just bought a smoke machine if I could have gotten it for less than around $400. ]

Do these home made smoke machines actually work?
After (1) paying someone to diagnose and replace a holed lower CCV-to-dipstick hose, my (new) advice is to (2) just replace all the rubber in the engine bay, or (3) buy/borrow a smoke machine.

With #1, you get a single hose for hundreds of dollars.
With #2, you get all new hoses, for about the same amount.
With #3, you get a single hose plus a test instrument, for about the same amount.

At this age of the E39, it might be nice to ask our sponsors to put together a complete rubber kit!
 
#26 · (Edited)
I was remiss in that I should report back that my year-long quest to locate the source(s) of a long-standing lean misfire condition (many codes) was resolved simply by replacing a few rubber hose/tubes/pipes/boots/caps & gaskets.

Specifically:
a) I first replaced all the rubber tubes/hoses/pipes/plugs I could easily get to in the engine bay ... which immediately helped somewhat lessen the frequency of the lean-condition misfire codes ...
- Where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1)

b) I then ran a smoke test ...
- How to make your own smoke machine (1)


c) Which pinpointed a lower CCV vent hose leak ...
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)


d) I also unclogged the dipstick guide tube which was clogged solid (and perhaps was a reason for the CCV vent hose leak) ...
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)


e) Lastly, I replaced the rubber boot which is connected to the ICV & TCV.


Those simple steps resolved my lean condition misfires!

BTW, while I rarely solve problems by replacing components without learning how to test them, I concur that one way to solve perplexing lean condition misfires, at this age of our bimmers, is to simply replace every vacuum-related rubber hose/tube/pipe/boot/cap/gasket in the engine bay.
 
#27 ·
Yet another cracked #9 endcap over here today:
I believe the piece is #9 here but am not certain. Tech pulled it out by hand, no tool.



As far as the trim, all I can tell you is what he told me, which is that the codes indicated 8-10% below the normal operating fuel to air ratios. I didn't see the readout. I have been noticing poorer in town MPG, though 8-10% would be barely noticeable, just a few MPG.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Yea, they all do that.
What we need is a comprehensive kit for all rubber to replace in our ageing bimmers:

Seems to me, it would consist of:
a) Bulk tubing of the metric size & best material type for most hoses/lines/tubing
b) All necessary metric endcaps
c) Photographic instructions
 
#30 ·
I just finished replacing all of the hoses on my 2001 525it. I removed the intake manifold to replace the ccv. After putting the car back together and starting it, I noticed very rough idling until the car warmed up. I did not have the rough idle beforehand.

It feels like a vaccum issue so I reinspected my work and found an uncapped "nipple" on the back side of the intake manifold (next to the firewall). The realoem diagram references two different types of caps but does not show how they attach to the manifold. I have one capped nipple, a vacuum hose from the secondary air pump on the second nipple and the uncapped nipple.

Does anyone have a picture of the backside of the manifold showing how the hoses should be attached?

Does it make a difference which nipple you attach the secondary air pump tube (as long as the diameter is the same)?

Does an uncapped nipple create enough pressure loss to cause the rough idle?
 
#33 ·
Thanks Steve.

I went to the dealer today and bought new caps. I set it up as per your picture and all is well.

I can't get over how sensitive the car is to the uncapped "nipple": rough start and lots of hesitation especially when it is cold.

I also think the uncapped "nipple" and the concurrent loss of vacuum was having an effect on shifting.

The cold tranny was shifting like it was low on fluid especially going from 3rd to 4th in a hilly area. Now it shifts correctly.

I was just about to trade the car in and get a newer 535I because I could not figure out the problem. Thanks to all for the very complete tutorial on vacuum hoses.
 
#34 ·
I went to the dealer today and bought new caps..
Since it's fresh in your mind, can you confirm or deny that #9 below is the same as #17 below?

  1. Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system
    • #15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
    • #17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32" ID)
    • ... stuff omitted ...
  2. Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL
    • 09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)
    • ... stuff omitted ...
 
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