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Good Replacement Batteries for the e39?

208K views 250 replies 62 participants last post by  540 M-Sport 
#1 · (Edited)
My car seems to have a weak BMW-brand battery. Messing around with a DICE install couple days ago, I listened to the stereo without cranking the engine, and with doors open and cabin lights on for 20-25 minutes....maybe twice the same day. That night I left the DICE plugged into the CD-changer connections in the trunk. Don't know if that mattered....

Yesterday car would not turn over, even once.... just a click. The battery charge indicator is normally green but this time it was black ("insufficiently charged") and would only run the instrument/cabin lights etc. The diagnostic test (#9 ) on my high cluster showed a voltage of 11.6V (with engine off). Normally (when I haven't been mucking around in the cabin with accessories on for half an hour....), the test #9 voltage is 12.6V off, 13.8V with engine running.

I jumpstarted the car, drove it around for about an hour last night and confirmed it had that test#9 12.6V reading (13.8V with engine running) when I got home. This morning, opened the trunk, battery indicator is still in the black (forgot to check last night), and test #9 shows 12.1V. However, the car cranked right up, so I let it idle again for about 10 minutes, shut it down, test #9 reading was 12.5V. Indicator still in black.

I decided to pull the battery from the car and do some basic maintenance (top up with distilled water). I couldn't find any obvious dates on the labels and after peeling back the top stickers, discovered the cell "caps" are not removable, just hard plastic flush-fit inserts that will probably crack if I try to pry them out.

Not sure how to date the BMW battery. It has a long code in the top middle, along the edge, reads "DB0402172006." Manufacturer bar code label says Mfg. by DBMC Winston-Salem, N.C."

Aftermarket choices I have locally for replacement...

Local 49-DL from Autozone is $95 + core fee of $12.
Everstart battery from local Walmart is $77.
 
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#94 ·
BlueBee, although I don't have a ready pic to show, thought I'd mention something. You've noticed no doubt that the Duralast + terminal cover is flush. The positive terminal plastic cover on the original BMW batteries will fit into the Duralast battery because the "feet" have the same spacing but the original BMW version has a gap that I found useful to channel the Duralast vent hose across the terminal and through and into the car-side hose. Works better for me than routing the hose around the positive terminal corner. If you kept the cover from your original battery, try it.
 
#98 · (Edited)
The positive terminal plastic cover on the original BMW batteries will fit into the Duralast battery because the "feet" have the same spacing
Here is a picture of the 'feet'. The spacing is very similar although the more substantial BMW positive terminal cover is better built all around.

I found it only slightly difficult to press fit the little feet into the holes in the Duralast 49-DL battery - but overall - it's a much nicer component than the flimsy Johnson Controls piece.



but the original BMW version has a gap that I found useful to channel the Duralast vent hose across the terminal and through and into the car-side hose.
Hmmmm... I don't see what you're talking about - but - I do see that the BMW positive terminal cover is muuuch more undulate than the cheaper flatter Johnson Controls cover.

Would you kindly snake a drawn arrow where you're suggesting we route the flimsy battery vent tube (this will help me, and also everyone to follow in our footsteps - so it should be worth the effort):


shortens the distance from the battery's vent hole to the side of the car...and allows the tube to amble over to the car's vent tube.
That idea should work!

Notice in the picture above and in the picture below, the elbow of the Johnson Controls battery vent tube extension is pinched by the plastic sides of the BMW E39 battery compartment.

I understand what you say and will see if I can shorten the battery side of that flexible elbow, in the hopes that it prevents it from being pinched (for others, please look here for what happens if the vent tube isn't venting).



QSilver7 said:
Here's a pic of the OE cap that covers the positive battery cover...installed on a Duralast 49 DL
And, here's a QSilver7 picture of a similar (maybe even the same?) battery showing that the Duralast 49-DL vent elbow isn't pinched in all cases; at least this QSilver7 picture seems to show slightly more room for the elbow than I seem to have in my battery compartment.
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Battery Weak found Replacement

make sure...positively make sure...that they INSTALLED THE VENT tube to the battery. You do NOT want to be driving around with the battery NOT vented. If it's an EXIDE mfg'd battery, then the battery's vent hole should be on the side of the battery like the original BMW battery that was installed. So you won't be able to see it because it's on the side of the battery by the positive battery post. If it is a Johnson Control mfg'd battery...then the battery vents from the top center (like the Duralast pictured below).
 

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#95 ·
You can also trim off a piece of the vent kit's vent tube (about 1/8") where it Ls into the vent on the battery. this shortens the distance from the battery's vent hole to the side of the car...and allows the tube to amble over to the car's vent tube.
 
#99 · (Edited)
Bluebee said:
That idea should work! ...I understand what you say and will see if I can shorten the battery side of that flexible elbow, in the hopes that it prevents it from being pinched...
You can also trim off a piece of the vent kit's vent tube (about 1/8") where it Ls into the vent on the battery. this shortens the distance from the battery's vent hole to the side of the car...and allows the tube to amble over to the car's vent tube.
Yes...I think you see the light. :) Trim off just a little bit from the tip that connects directly to the battery's vent hole...and it should extend over to the car's vent tube without being pinched between the battery and the air vent/grill (in the battery compartment):

The pic below is my set-up in the 540iT...as you can see...my trimmed vent tube is not squished in the pic...I used a pair of scissors & cut off approx 1/8" after measuring twice (cut once). I laid the tube along the path over to the gray vent tube to see how much of the tip needed to be cut off to bring the extending section closer to the battery and to prevent it from being squished up against the vent/grid that is directly behind the elbow section of the extending vent tube.


versus yours (which is slightly pinched) in the pic below (and where you've nicely circled the area in white to highlight the location) :D


Just an FYI...this pic below (that you circled) is Jamie (Jamesdc4) from BimmerForums...that image is taken from his great battery replacement DIY on that forum. And I think that his vent tube isn't "pinched" in the image because the battery isn't really set in place yet. His cables aren't attached and the battery hasn't been pushed all the way back up into the corner yet:

(this pic belongs to Jamesdc4)
.
 
#101 · (Edited)
OK, Duh. I finally understand what you guys were trying to tell me. Sorry for being dense.

There are two things you can do to prevent the vent hose from being kinked.

One is to route the vent hose through the openings in the original BMW battery positive cap, which has a convenient 'tunnel' right through it.



The other method to prevent kinks is to snip off about ¼ inch of the elbow at the end closest to the battery.
 

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#103 ·
I went with the Interstate MPT-H9 b/c I wanted a perfect fit for the "battery cave" placement in the M5. Also came with a big "Made in Germany" sticker on it, perhaps to justify the cost.

I may have already posted this pic in another thread, but the vent tube lines up perfectly even though its top left, I didn't need the extension.

 
#104 · (Edited)
I went with the Interstate MPT-H9 b/c I wanted a perfect fit
It looks, from your picture, that the vent tube hole on the Interstate battery is in the same location (side, top) as on the OEM BMW battery.

I wonder why you even needed the elbow (since the OEM battery doesn't use the elbow)?

In the BMW battery, the vent tube goes straight into that hole at the top left of the battery.

 

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#105 · (Edited)
His extension tube looks used. :)

I would assume that the tube in the pic above went with his old battery...and that his old battery's vent hole was at the top center. Where as the 94/95/H9 class size batteries all tend to have their vent holes on the side of the battery...which also requires the little black elbow adapter that was used in the original BMW battery. these batteries are also usually mfg'd by EXIDE/East Penn.


The batteries that vent from the top center and that require the vent kit...are usually the 48/49/H8 battery class sizes...or the ones mfg'd by Johnson Controls.
 
#107 · (Edited)
the little black elbow adapter that was used in the original BMW battery
Oh oh... this is the first time I'm hearing (understanding) about an original elbow for the BMW stock battery ...

When I removed my BMW dealer-installed battery last week, I didn't notice the vent-tube extension elbow. (However, I didn't even notice the vent tube at that time, let alone an original elbow.)



I 'thought' (until just now) that the vent tube went directly into the BMW battery (sans an elbow):


Now, I realize, belatedly, from your discussion, if there 'was' an elbow, that I LOST the elbow in my somewhat convoluted physical removal of the battery (that thing is HEAVY).

Note: This is 'not' how to remove a battery properly! But it's a great way to see the 'other' venting hole (plugged) in situ!


Embarrassing question:

Q: Does the original BMW battery configuration have the vent tube attached to an elbow which is then attached to the vent hole in the stock BMW battery?
 

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#106 ·
No Quick not used, it came already pretty dirty! Previous battery was OEM. Blue - I reused the little "elbow joint" thing that plugs into the tube.

I got the extension with the battery from my shop, but I didn't need it.
 
#108 ·
Q: Does the original BMW battery configuration have the vent tube attached to an elbow which is then attached to the vent hole in the stock BMW battery?
Yes, mine did. I think you'll see that the vent tube itself won't go directly into the battery.

My MTP-H9 also came with a plug, which goes in the opposite side of the vent hole.

Someone has to have this part. You could try a stealer, or call BavAuto or a place like that.
 
#109 · (Edited)
I think you'll see that the vent tube itself won't go directly into the battery.
Ah. I see.

I'm sure I have that elbow lying around somewhere in my battery compartment. I just didn't know enough to look for it.

It's 'this' kind of simple (obvious, once you already know it) stuff I'm trying to help other newbies with, so thanks for letting me know.

I don't actually 'need' it, since I replaced my BMW-installed battery with a Duralast (whose venting is wholly different); but I want to add it to the DIY ...

- A simple E39 battery replacement DIY (1)


My MTP-H9 also came with a plug, which goes in the opposite side of the vent hole.
My original battery has this little black plug for the vent hole on the negative side of the battery.
 
#110 · (Edited)
The little black elbow is in the diagram for the BMW oe battery.

You only need the elbow if you are using a battery that vents from the side...it facilitates attaching the car's gray vent tube by giving it a solid right angle that is inserted into the battery's side vent hole...while allowing you to shove the battery back into the corner without pinching the car's vent tube.

If you have a top vented battery that requires the extension "vent kit"...you won't need the black elbow.

You can see the original black elbow in these pics below:


And it is BMW part # 61 21 1 377 835 (cost approx 52¢ from BMW dealer)...see #11 in the diagram below:


Edgy36-39 said:
No Quick not used, it came already pretty dirty!
Sorry 'bout that. :) I "assumed" since it looked kinda used...but you know what they say about assumptions... :D And the kits usually come in a sealed pkg...so again...I assumed...but was incorrect. :(

Here's one of the sealed "vent kits" that came with one of my Duralast batteries...it's on my e34 525iT web page so this means a purchase date around 2005/2006:



E34 525iT battery location - below rear seat
 
#111 ·
For the cross-linked record, there is a discussion of the $155 AGM batteries for the E39 here today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Battery Question

My car has had a few no-starts due to a flat battery; I'm not entirely sure of the cause but the battery is 5 years old, so assuming it fails a battery test when I get a tester, I'm looking for a replacement.

The subject has been beaten to death; I know the standard response is the duralast 49-dl, but I'm interested in something that may be able to handle more abuse. I make a lot of short trips with long sitting periods in between, and occasional long 2+hr highway trips.

I'm wondering if it's possible and worthwhile to install an AGM battery or if the E39 charging system won't support it. Any experiences?

I'd love to get a true OEM Varta but they're not available in north America.
 
#112 ·
Oh-kaaaay I think my luck with the Duralast 49DL is done. I went through two in 16 months. Both completely died within a couple days after coming off a Deltran battery tender (same one BMW sells I think...) with readings of 12.6 V. The second one had a reading of 7 V when I took it to Autozone to test. They refunded me $95, I took that and bought the H8 SuperMAXX at Walmart ($98 here in Eugene). The SuperMAXX has substantially more heft than the Duralast -- feels closer in mass to the BMW original. It also has vents on each end like the genuine BMW batteries do, with a small plug (still attached to the pos. terminal cap) that you use to plug the vent you will not use (the one on the aft end....).

I've been through the check-out routine for parasitic drain and will do it again to be sure, but last time I checked, after 16 min. my car goes into sleep mode and shows a current drain of between 0.02-0.05 amp. Is that enough to kill a battery in a car that's not driven for say, four or five days? I typically put the car on the tender (using underhood terminal connectors) once or twice a month.
 
#113 ·
bought the H8 SuperMAXX at Walmart ($98 here in Eugene).
Sounds like a nice battery, and closer in fitment than the Duralast 49DL. Are the electrical specs similar?

current drain of between 0.02-0.05 amp. Is that enough to kill a battery
Assuming 0.05 amps for about a week, that would amount to less than 10 amp hours in total.

I'm not sure what 10 amp hours means to a charged battery so I'll let others chime in.

But, I did find this description of 'typical' parasitic drain:
If everything is normal, you will read less than 35 milliamps, or .035 amps. If the current drain is higher than that, you need to find out what is draining your batteries
 

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#115 ·
Sorry for harping on you guys with the....Deka exact fit.
What the name implies - exact fit. Just like the OEM battery, exact same size, no need of adapting, splicing, re-routing vent hoses etc. The vent hose fits exactly like the OEM one, more CCA than the OEM.
Have it for the last 3 years now, no issues. Temp swings between summer & winter from -30°C or lower to +30°C.
They also have the new AGM style. And a good warranty.
 
#118 ·
That Walmart battery is the exact same one I bought, and that CCA rating is higher than BMW's battery has, so it's not the problem.

If your new battery discharged overnight after one day in the car, your problem is that you either have a serious parasitic drain in your car, or you bought a dud battery. Did you measure the battery voltage before installation? With extra electronics in your car, you really need to do the test for parasitic drain and eliminate all possibilities.

The Everstart MAXX H8 doesn't come with a vent tube (you use the original BMW vent tube with the plastic elbow from the original battery). It has two vent ports on either end, in the same exact locations as the BMW battery. It is essential that the battery be vented with the tube, unless you want corrosive/explosive gases in the trunk. The red plastic postive terminal cover on the Everstart has (or should have) a small plug attached to it that you remove and insert into the vent port that isn't used.
 
#120 · (Edited)
1.... By the way, does anyone know the OEM battery's CCA rating? Thanks for the help.
2. I also bought a battery from Walmart yesterday, the H8 Everstart Maxx which has a lower rating of 760 CCA (& NO VENT TUBE) compared to 850 CCA of the previous Maxx 49 battery.
1. According to the part database (realoem)...the e39 battery (BMW part nbr 61 21 8 381 762) is listed as 720a/850ca. You give no indication of WHICH e39 you have in your posts since you have no signature with model/model year/build date listed...and you only have "e39" listed in the upper right under "cars"...so I have no idea of which diagram or part nbr list to share with you...but if you click this link for the 528i....you can see the list of batteries BMW used: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT43&mospid=47584&btnr=61_0146&hg=61&fg=30&hl=19


2. The e39 can use multiple class size batteries (49/H8/94/95/H9)...some of them vent from the top center and some vent from the side (like the BMW original battery). If you haven't look in either locations...then that is why you may have missed the vent hole in the battery.

If it vents from the side...it requires the little black elbow that originally came with the car...if it vent's from the top...then you need the vent kit with the elongated "L" extension tube that should have come with the battery.

(you can see the little black elbow in the pic below of the car's vent tube)



(side vented battery)


(top center vented battery w/vent kit attached)


 
#123 ·
It turned out that the Walmart installer didn't tighten the battery clamp to the positive terminal. I removed the battery, connected the vent tube & properly tightened both terminals.

Thanks for the tips and heads up about my profile which has been updated.
Great! Glad it was something simple to fix...and thanks for adding the car info, too. :thumbup: It helps us help you better. :)
 
#122 ·
I'm running a Duralast Gold 94R-DLG:

 
#124 ·
It's always amazed me that the specs for the Duralast 49 DL are higher than the Duralast Gold 94/95R...but it cost less. :dunno:

The Duralast Gold (DLG) is slightly longer & heavier...and I think it may have a higher Amp Hour rating...but still...the Reserve Capacity/Cold Cranking Amps/Cranking Amps are lower than the regular "DL" but it costs approx $50 more. :dunno:

 
#126 · (Edited)
I had a 49-DL fail on me after about 2 1/2 years. They gave me 60 bucks for it (prorated warranty) and with the cost of replacement now at $110, I decided to look around and see if I could find a better deal. I ended up finding a great battery at a regional chain (Farm and Fleet). It was $80, part #4972, stock venting location, fits the same as the OEM battery, and is 900 CCA / 1080 CA with a 72 month warranty on it. Of course this doesn't help anyone outside of the upper midwest, but thought I'd throw it out there...
 
#128 ·
Here's a discussion today covering a brand of batteries which may be of interest to others:
- > E39 (1997 - 2003) > AutoCraft H8-AGM battery only for $125.99!

I installed a new battery (AutoCraft H8-AGM) from Advance Auto Parts last Saturday. So far everything works great. It's only $125.99 after using a link my friend sent to me. The link saved me $35 instantly. The battery can be used on X3, X5 and 5 Series. I got free installation at local store.
 
#129 · (Edited)
Pep Boys - Bosch Battery Group 49

I just replaced my 4-year old Wally EverStart Group 49 ($63 back in 12/08) after it failed to start the E39 a couple weeks back (car sat idle for 4-5 days in near freezing temp). Although a charger brought the battery back to life, it was time to get a new one.

Pep Boys has a Bosch 49-850 with a 3yr replacement (plus roadside assistance jump start) for $109, minus a $25 coupon (via online - Google) and $20 rebate. Thus, $64 plus tax.

The EverStart and Bosch appear to be made by the same mfr given that the batteries' specs (850 CCA) and exterior details were identical.

Here are pics:
 

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#130 ·
Yep...you've stumbled upon this little secret...only a few battery mfg's in the USA....which make most of the battery brands for the entire country. :)

 
#131 ·
East Penn battery manufacturer

Your list is missing one, East Penn Manufacturing. They make their own labeled batteries, as well as several private label, including for Battery Plus stores under the "Werker" and "Ray-O-Vac" brands. They also own the company that makes the BMW branded batteries, although I believe those are made in a seperate factory.

Their "exact fit" batteries for European cars are very high quality.
http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0379.pdf

Where to buy: http://www.dekabatteries.com/default.aspx?pageid=10

I have their standard Group 49 battery (they also make an AGM version) for over 6 years, and it has never needed water (though I check it every couple years) and when I load tested it last weekend, it tested at 925 CCA! Granted, this is a sample size of one, but I am impressed with their quality. I only paid $93 for it 6 years ago.... I think their current price is more like $140, but worth it.
 
#132 ·
I recently purchased a Duralast Platinum H8-AGM. The grey shirt working at the vato zone was about to grab the Duralast Gold lead acid battery, before I stopped him and got the Platinum instead just because it's an AGM battery. Newer may always be better. :p Glancing at the battery, it says that it was made in PA. Has all the same specs and housing as the Deka Intimidator and Ultimate AGM 9AGM49. I am not sure is Johnson Controls or East Penn manufactured it, but I have a few inclinations as to the latter.
My old BMW battery died sitting in my garage around freezing temperatures for over a week. The Duralast needs to be vented even with as an AGM battery, the vent tube spots are the same size and location as the OEM battery. I had also just reused the vent elbow and tube for the new battery. The Duralast is shorter by about 2cm thus the top hold down doesn't even touch the battery. It weighs about the same as the old battery, probably around 58-64 lbs. It was a slight pain in the ass to get the battery into the compartment(maybe I need to lift more weights :rofl: ), but installation couldn't be any easier.

It sure starts my car much faster than before. With the good CCA rating, as well as RC I'm quite satisfied how it has been performing this winter. I think that the demands on the battery is pretty great even for a car made in 2001; Heated seats, DICE + music, heater, headlights and fogs, all running and the start up won't hesitate.

The price was less than Batteries Plus Duracell AGM, as well as Sears Diehard Platinum AGM. I also went with it because the AutoZone was closest to my house. I paid $160 +$12 core charge -$12 for my old battery. Warranty is 3 yrs. vs the Gold's 5 years, but I'm not a stickler for that kind of stuff. I'm not exactly sure how to review a battery, but I guess I will find out over time since this stuff varies by usage.
 
#133 · (Edited)
Thanks for the update...this is the first I've heard of the Duralast "Platinum" H8. Perhaps this is why the Duralast 49 DL has been discontinued.

Don't worry so much about the upper brace (#5) in the battery compartment (its made to work with item #9...which we didn't even get here in the States)...the battery hold down clamp (#15) to the rear is what really secures the battery in place to prevent it from sliding fore/aft as well as up/down. Just make sure that the hold down clamp and vent tubes are hooked & clamped down correctly.

 
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