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Keeping Your 3 Series Origami Top in Tip Top Shape

743K views 564 replies 155 participants last post by  guaporas 
#1 · (Edited)
A special thanks to fun2drive for his huge contribution :thumbup::thumbup:

Okay folks, you asked for it, here it is. In response to everyone who has asked for a Sticky on how to maintain the seals and keep the moving parts of the convertible hardtop lubricated, fun2drive and I have put our heads together and assembled a DIY. Much of this is based on experience, but we have also tried to get as much input as possible from dealership service techs and the photo documentation included is the direct result of my E93 having just been in for a full dealership hardtop lubrication and adjustment.
We welcome contributions of tips and tricks picked up along the way. As always, comments and questions are great. The intent is to have a one-stop resource for people looking for information on keeping the folding hardtop well maintained and problem free.

Probably one of the greatest concerns of any E93 owner is how to keep their folding hardtop free of creaks, squeaks, wind noise and heaven forbid water leaks. If you own one, you are at least marginally aware that there are literally hundreds of parts in the form of seals, hinges, locks, hydraulics, and microswitches that must all work in perfect harmony to deliver the 22 seconds to nirvana top down experience. So, how to keep things running smoothly:

• Keep the rubber seals lubricated and moisturized.
• Secondly, but equally important is to keep the moving joints well lubricated and dust free.
• Listen to your top. For those who acquired their E93s new, think back to what the top sounded like when the car was brand new. If you acquired your car second hand, go to your local dealership and ask them if you can observe (that is listen) to the top of a brand new E93. It should be silky smooth with no squeaks, no jolts and no stickiness.
So, here are some tips and tricks to keeping your top in great shape.

Seal Lubrication:
There are two products routinely discussed when this topic comes up.

Gummi Pflege (which in German, literally translates to "Rubber Care") made by Einzett.

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

Krytox - specifically the GPL205 Grease made by Dupont. This is expensive stuff, but well worth every penny.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Krytox+gpl205



A couple of words about products to use on rubber seals: Silicon is a natural enemy of rubber. It makes rubber swell and fracture. Whether your tires or your door seals - do your car a favor, spend the few extra dollars to get good products.

Rubber Seal Lubrication:

The rubber seals on your top are very similar to your skin. They need moisture and protection or they will dry out and eventually crack. At the very least they will shrink with dehydration, or prematurely break down due to UV damage.

Gummi Pflege: The applicator is a little bulky. I found the on board applicator to be overkill for the narrow strips of rubber that make up the E93 lateral top seals (those rubber seals running from driver to passenger side).
As an alternative, I use "foam lollipops" available from either Autogeek or Detailed Image. I moisten the lollipop with the Gummi Pflege then run it along the length of the seal including the grooved area. I follow with a microfiber wrapped sponge to help spread the Gummi evenly and mop up any puddles.

Krytox:
This is best applied using your fingers and a little really does go along way. The best description I can use here is watch your wife or girlfriend the next time she applies lip balm or lip gloss. She will take a little tiny bit on the tip of her finger and smooth it all the way over her lips. Same thing applies here. It takes just a little bit to be smoothed the length of the seal.
You need to keep going over the area until you have a uniform thin coating over the entire seal area.
If you live in a cold area of the country and are trying to do this at temperatures below 60F, take a terry face cloth and get it wet with hot water. Wring it out then wrap it around the syringe applicator and let it sit for a few minutes. This will gently warm the Krytox and make it easier to apply. Alternatively, if it is in the tube, let it sit in a coffee mug of hot water for a few minutes to SOFTEN it.
DON'T stick it in the microwave. If you liquefy it, you may alter its properties.

So now that you know what to use and how to apply it, where does it go? For the seals that is pretty easy. If it's black and rubbery (soft and slightly squishy) and it's on either the front or rear edge of one of the top panels or it is between the front and rear passenger windows it is fair game. Pictures do a far better job of explaining it so here they are. Don't forget to use a little Krytox along the area where the side view mirrors mate with the A pillar.

















A quick word about the tensioning cords. While these are not something that can be lubricated or treated per se, it is of value to inspect them for wear. It seems that around MY 2011, the cords were upgraded to a more robust version as earlier cars exhibited fraying of these cords. My 2009 had the cords replaced under warranty in August 2011.
This is what the frayed cords look like and the points where they are the most visible.









The replaced cords are not as silky looking and are holding up much better.



Now for the hinges, locks, pins and slides: fun2drive is going to explain about lubricants and application techniques. We had a fortuitous photo -op in that my E93's top had developed a nasty little squeak and a bit of a catch or sticky spot when being returned to closed from the stowed (top open) position. It went to the dealership for a full lubrication. The photos were taken the day after the service visit, so we have a pretty clear understanding of the lube points as specified by BMW.
 
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#390 ·
Arus, I cannot tell by those pictures what is leaking or where it's coming from? Is that some type of petroleum product? It looks brown or black? The tops work off a cylinder, that is the only fluid that could possibly be leaking other than water. If that is hydraulic fluid , I would take that in to get it looked at asap!!!!!
 
#392 ·
I know i have heard of a few problems with the roof system and it leaking , not many. Did you try a search on the forum for it. I would imagine that the system is under quite a bit of pressure when you are using the top. Sounds like you want to try and fix it yourself , I guess for me I would have to weigh having a trunk full of hydraulic fluid, might be worth a trip to the dealer !
 
#394 ·
Every 6 months is ok, if roof starts to squeak, do it earlier, if living in a dusty environment, clean more ! Krytox is really the best but clean with a wet towel first !
 
#395 ·
Replace hydraulic fluid

Hi i am new to this forum after buying a used 2010 328i . I am very much in preventive maintenance so i was wondering if someone knows how to replace the hydraulic fluid of the top. I also have a 99 mb sl500 and the internet is full of replacing this fluid after 5 years. It is accumulating moisture so should be replaced but how ? I also would like to thank nordic kat for explaining how to maintain these hardtop rubbers !
 
#397 ·
I'll try and answer some of the question posed.
For the 4 it is no different than the 3 follow the same guide. I have a friend that has a 4 and with the exception of some of the improvements it has the same operation and issues regarding lube and conditioning of seals.

For hydraulic replacement it is pointless as this is a closed system and unless you have a leak you will not get water in the fluid. Also the fluid is not a common fluid available only at BMW but is most likely Pentosin CHF 11S. You can replace the fluid which you need to remove the main panel and you will see the electro-hydraulic pack with site glass.

I don't understand your question. Are you asking where to find the flute cleaners or the drains them-self? A music store can provide the cleaners but the drains or seals only at BMW.
 
#398 ·
Other convertibles have also a closed circuit, but they all as mercedes or saab recommend changing the fluid after 5 years as it captures humidity. It is again bmw trying to make us believe that a bmw is cheap to maintain that they invented this long life oil ! That does not exist. So i wonder if anyone has a description how to change the fluid with indeed the famous and best pentosin ch11s. It will prevent thevseals to deteriorate over the years.
 
#399 ·
Fluid Change

Be sure it is Pentosin fluid. I have not seen a BMW document verifying that it is so that would be something maybe a BMW tech can help you on. I have seen no DIYs about doing what you are planning to do for an E93 but there is some limited info if memory serves on the E46 which is electro-hydraulic pack.
I think Kat posted some pics of that main cover removed or someone on this forum section did because I clearly remember its location being passenger side forward and similar to the E46 design but more robust.
 
#400 ·
Yes some pictures how to get access tó the pump will help ! I post pictures when i replace the fluid.this should preserve the seals in the hydraulic switches.
 
#401 · (Edited)
Patching a small leak in front seal?

Hi guys,

First just wanted to say that as a newbie owner of a used 2007 328 hardtop, this forum (and this thread especially) have been invaluable.

I'm a few months in to owning the car, and I'm getting a very slight leak on the front passenger side. It looks like it's due to a deteriorated seal, rather than misalignment. See photo links below.

Brought it to a dealership and they quoted $2500 to replace the seal for the entire front piece of the origami top. I'm wondering - if I can get some rubber waterproof sealant on the problem spots (e.g. something like flex seal), could that solve this? Or am I in for trouble?

This isn't a huge leak, but I don't think normal maintenance treatment will solve it, and this car stays outdoors - and winter is coming...

Thanks for the advice.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6X21ZI7f9bneU9Tc1NhY1c5MEE

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6X21ZI7f9bnai1qSHNsclBqWTQ
 
#402 ·
Have you tried to clean rhe rubbers and then apply krytox ? Also a convertible is not made to stay outside ! Try to get a garage or covered area for the car !
 
#404 ·
I see some sand, this will scratch and destroy all rubbers, try to keep the car away from sand and scratchy things, preventive maintenance is keeping drains clean and wax car regularly.
 
#405 ·
Here is my suggestion. Get some black silicon sealer at the auto parts or hardware store. Clean the area and make sure it is well dried. Put the black silicon sealer in the damaged areas to build it up to the level and form of the rubber strip on either side. Don't over do it and don't under do it. It needs to fit and have the form just like what was there before it was torn. If the leak persists you can always add just a touch more.
Replacing the rubber strip across the top isn't all that hard to do it is a press fit but it is super expensive because BMW uses rubber not synthetic rubber and rubber shrinks. That is why Kat and I when we wrote this some years ago emphasized so strongly to keep the seals conditioned and the linkage well lubricated.
Hope this helps...
 
#406 ·
Has anyone changed the hydraulic top fluid ? And does anyone have a pictured manual how to ? This is like for any convertible top NOT a lifetime fluid !
 
#408 ·
Yes all this on your picture, i am looking for so i can access no 1 the reservoir. Is there a way to access the fluid without disassembling the reservoir from the pump ? Want to take out old fluid and replace with new one but where is all this in the trunk ?? I am surprised as for a merc , any model, the pump is similar and valves need to be replaced faster if fluid is used for 5 years +!
 
#409 · (Edited)
Suggestion use a vacuum with hose and suck the fluid out. I am making the assumption that the fill plug will also allow withdraw of the fluid. That is what I have had to do in some systems that have no drain port. I use a top sider but any system that allows vacuum will work...
You have to remove the center section of the trunk to get access to that area. You will find that assembly slightly left of center once the cover is off...
 
#410 ·
Greatly appreciated ! I finally know where to look for, right is the battery but where is this pump! Thanks, I am surprised that i seem one of the few wanting to replace this fluid. I do not know if the rubber seals have been improved since the days of the 89-2001 merc sl r129, this one greatly suffers of leaking rubbers in the hydraulics. There you can extend the life by regularly (every 3 y) change the pentosin fluid. Of course these cars are much older but i think we will get there too with our beemers. I try to take some pictures when changing it !
 
#411 ·
Heads up on need for Gummi Pflege

Does a new convertible need Gummi Pflege? YES!

On Saturday, I lubed and Gummi Pfleged my 2008 335i to get the convertible top in the mood for winter storage. Then, I wondered, should my new 2017 440i convertible get the same treatment? Probably not, I figured. It has only been four months since it was manufactured.

Wrong! The rubber seals on the new 440 had more dirt, sand, bird droppings, etc. than the 2008. The car must have piced it up during the ED part of its life or during hurrican Matthew waiting for re-delivery.

New rules: All hard top convertibles, regardless of age, need the Gummi treatment about every 3-6 months.
 
#414 ·
i just applied gummi pledge on my seals and the stuff looks just like soap water.. the seals were dry to the touch literally seconds after i applied it.. .is this normal?
 
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