Still need to write up what I learned from a rookie perspective on this job, but here is a very close figure for what it actually cost. I see these adds around here on craigs list selling 3's and 5's with a blown head gasket saying for about 5-700 you can get it fixed. :rofl: Not even close.
I can see why a lot of folks just go with a used engine. This was on a m52 cast iron block.
Never considered calling a dealer or indy when I started adding up what was needed. Just decided to do it myself and hope I could follow all the instructions. Car is running great at 500 miles. Still need to do a compression check and leakdown. Car has 210k on it. If those look good I am for sure going to keep it. Nice thing is I have all the tools now so looking for another great deal on a car with the same engine and blown gasket. BMW's are around here for sale every week with that issue. Figure I can do it 10x quicker next time around.
I bought a kit from Pelican Parts that included some of the special tools like the camshaft holder and really big e12 torx socket (plus gaskets etc.).
Machine shop quoted me $500 to plane the head and grind the valves. Still would have been well under $1,000. Then, when I got the head to the machine shop, they said the brass valve guides also had to be replaced and it would be $825 total for their services.
At that point I called around for used engines, and found a terrific used engine from the big BMW yard in Sacramento area (CA) for only $675!
So I switched to a swap, but I could easily have had it done for about $1,200.
Thing is, having a super tight head and valves with tired old rings is not always a great idea. So grabbing a very healthy engine on the cheap was a better deal all around.
BemRat - my head was cracked and the local machine shop I took it to said they would not weld it as the area was in a place that they could not warranty the work. So I bought one from these guy's and sent mine back to get a 100.00 core refund http://www.autoheadperformance.com/main/page_bmw_heads.html
Before the crack was found they were going to mil, reset the valves and put new seals in for 500.00
Looks like there's a lot on that list that I would not have included in the cost. The tools are not a one-time use, so not legitimately an expense for this job. They could be resold to someone else if you're not planning on doing this job again - or borrowed instead of purchased. The new spark plugs and hoses look like they're artificially inflating the cost since they're "might-as-wells" - as long as you have it all apart, you might as well change those too. And the "tow to get it ___" is totally not part of the job.
There is a LOT of stuff on there that is very high priced, not to mention that he actually replaced the head rather than machining. Obviously a machine job wouldn't fix the cracks. My 97 M52 iron block gasket replacement didn't cost me anywhere near that. The machine shop measured and cleaned it, but that was it. I rented the camshaft block and bought the flywheel lock and vanos tool. I don't think I spent over $1200.
As a matter of fact, I replaced three lifters, polished all valves, replaced the CCV and vac hoses, replaced all gaskets and o rings, and dismantled and thoroughly cleaned the varnish off of all the lifters except the new ones.
Good info. I to would take about $700 off that total for a high-side estimate. But this is just the info I have been looking for because I'm thinking of doing the same thing the OP is thinking about doing- buying cheap but otherwise good Bimmers that have a had a severe overheat, rebuilding, and reselling the car. Craig's list has one in my area with this condition quite frequently.
This a very realistic price a average diy'er would pay. I cant remember exactly what my first one cost me but it was in the ballpark of around $900 +/- $100. But I also had all the tools except the vanos timing ones and fluids, clamps, brake clean, etc. The best part of jzbrown's choice to fix the failed headgasket and not swap the engine is he wont have to deal with any headgasket issues for many, many miles. Swapping a engine on the other hand you never know what your swapping it with. Congrats on a job well done. :thumbup::thumbup:
There are things you can for sure deduct. Tools - if you have a 36mm socket, a 32mm open end, 24mm open end, a set of star sockets - had the drivers but bought the set of sockets at sears, as all my tools are. Plus all the bmw timing tools, yes I can get some money back, but this is what it cost to do the job, not knowing what I was getting into. Prices of parts - I looked all over and do not think I over spent not counting the 65 for the theromostat at the local dealer. I read to only use oem and that is what it cost. Spark plugs were needed. Broken or bad hoses were needed. If I were to do it again, I may be able to save a little because I know a little more. This was a newbie going at it with only this site and the references for how to do a particular part. Head not cracked was 500 local at the best machine shop around. Just wanted it done right. My time on top of this makes it a very very costly job. Towing? Where do you put that in a cost basis. Had to be done for the job. Just showing what it really costs. You can deduct whatever you already have, or find it cheaper, but that is what I spent. Hoses, what do you do when you find one bad? Move on or replace. Depends on you goal.
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