Coolant Level Light On

I had a fluids shop replace my antifreeze and now my "Coolant Level" light comes on when I turn off my key. I also can not reset it per the manual's instructions. Has anyone fixed the float in the radiator which may be stuck? ... Or perhaps you can tell me where else to look? Thanks.

Same problem - if you find the solution, let me know. Mine started happening after a head gasket replacement.

It is the coolant float at the bottom of the expansion tank. It's a separate part from the tank itself and isn't terribly expensive. It's part #13 in the diagram, and will be about $20-30 depending on your parts source, might i recommend www.bmaparts.com!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...99&hg=17&fg=05

Bought a new float from BMA for $15. Problem solved.

Take the connector of snd bridge with a peice of wire sorted mine out lol

I bought a switch from BMA for $17 and it fixed my problem. FYI, since this basically a ground switch, I was told that you can stuff a small wire between the contacts and it will turn off your instrument light, but I never verified this. Sounds right to me, however.

Originally Posted by bimmerd00d

It is the coolant float at the bottom of the expansion tank. It's a separate part from the tank itself and isn't terribly expensive. It's part #13 in the diagram, and will be about $20-30 depending on your parts source, might i recommend www.bmaparts.com!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...99&hg=17&fg=05ho

I'm having a overheating problem in my 94 525I after replacing my starter (long story), my BMW overheated an I added coolant (not BMW coolant) and manually removed any air that was in the coolant system. When I leave the car running and in park for 30 minutes or so my temp level will rise to about 60% I have not driven it cuz I'm also having a misfire issue (another story). My original question was about the floater inside the coolant bottle, is it supposed to float all the way to the top and what could happen if I take it out? I already took it out btw.

P.s if it wasn't for this forum I would have spent thousands as I bought this car not running just a week ago.. glad to say the death toll so far is way under $200 including the tow... thanks to all the posters

Welcome to the Fest. In answer to your question, the float that is in the expansion tank is not necessary for the car to function and does not affect whether or not it overheats. The only purpose is to activate a warning when the coolant level drops.

Not sure how changing a starter would cause the overheating. Most likely culprits would be the fan clutch (most likely), water pump or radiator. If the coolant system has not been replaced in the last 100K miles, it is highly recommended that you totally overhaul it. The parts run about $600.

As for the misfire, that can be from many causes from oil in the plug well (from a leaky valve cover gasket) to bad spark plug to bad coil, etc.

Glad you have gleaned a lot of knowledge from this forum. Keep at it and you will get her road worthy again.

Again, welcome.

I just bought a 95 525i (not running with 200k+) for $800, the moment I saw it I fell in love (guess I'm easy to please) lol this car has everything I wanted in a car at this point and it looks savy with all the options. I'm a small time mechanic (at home) so I do my own work to any of my vehicles, first time working on a BMW, easier than one might think. The first time I Google a question about my car I found the forum and I have never been so easily informed in one place for all my questions... I'm proud to say in the one week that I have owned my 525I and been on this site I have got her running all for way under $200 including the tow to get her home. Although I am having major misfire issues you have to look at the bright side, Guy sees a car (BMW mind you) falls in love with said car and finds out it doesn't run and pretty much was told it was the battery or the key chip, or the security system ( told exactly like that). After buying the car and towing it home I picked my brain and this forum to atleast get the to run, and she is running! So now its time to figure out the small things to get her running perfectly,

(FYI issues I'm having with my 95 525i automatic with over 200k miles)
bad misfiring
over heating
Coolant indicator light on
srs light on
Those are known issues with unknown causes to me any help would be appreciated.
Oh and the bad misfire is now a not so bad misfire thanks to this forum again I found that when I unplug the mass airflow censor my car idles at about .600-.700 rpms when plugged in idle jumps continuously and wants to stall and sometimes does. So I'm sure I need a new maf censor. Now I have to find maybe a vacuumed leak and a intake manifold leak (lost 2 nuts in the process to the manifold.
tanks everyone.

Read the stickies at the top of this forum and you will get a lot of knowlege on how to address your issues. The main one that I see is the overheating. You need to diagnose and/or fix that before you proceed with dropping anymore money into her. If it is something simple with the cooling system, then you are good to go and attack the other things. If you have a blown headgasket, then you will need to consider heavily the decision whether or not to fix it.

Also, search for and download or buy the Bentley manual. This is a must for a DIY'er.

Secondly, do the stomp test. it is covered in my sticky thread.

Good luck and keep us informed.

Thanks alot Steve

I think my slightly high temp now is due to my fan not spinning fast enough with I believe is the fan clutch, I'm thinking of removing the fan and going electric what do you guys think ? I'm new to BMW in general so forgive if I ask obvious questions. Ok back to the fan I can stop it with my hand even when reving the engine hens going electric.

Ok for the Bentley manual

And forgive but what is the stomp test? I've herd about it but can't find a explanation on what it is.

Originally Posted by phatness

Thanks alot Steve

I think my slightly high temp now is due to my fan not spinning fast enough with I believe is the fan clutch, I'm thinking of removing the fan and going electric what do you guys think ? I'm new to BMW in general so forgive if I ask obvious questions. Ok back to the fan I can stop it with my hand even when reving the engine hens going electric.

Ok for the Bentley manual

And forgive but what is the stomp test? I've herd about it but can't find a explanation on what it is.

Ahhh grasshoppa. You must read the stickies to seek full enlightenment No, seriously, read the stickies.

Yeah, your fan clutch is toast. Either get a new one or go electric. Either way, don't drive it and allow it to overheat.

Here's the stomp test procedure (covered in the sticky): http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...65#post5936965

Let us know if you get any codes.

Thanks again!!! I just got done with the stomp test I got 2 codes one of Wichi I know about
1221 maf. Censor
1215 KNOCK censor
I believe those are accurate. Now for q&a lol.
Q. Where is the knock censor and when affect does it have when bad.
Q. Does that have something to do with my sputtering? Code 1215
Q. Beside fuel percentages what else does the mass airflow censor effect if bad?
Keep in mind I'm almost sure everything on this care is from 1995.. lol
Q. I have a video can I post it here? If so, how?
Thanks again

Forgot to mention I could not clear the codes at the end I would get 1 blink then a 5 second steady. Then it stays on.

Originally Posted by phatness

Thanks again!!! I just got done with the stomp test I got 2 codes one of Wichi I know about
1221 maf. Censor
1215 KNOCK censor
I believe those are accurate. Now for q&a lol.
Q. Where is the knock censor and when affect does it have when bad.
Q. Does that have something to do with my sputtering? Code 1215
Q. Beside fuel percentages what else does the mass airflow censor effect if bad?
Keep in mind I'm almost sure everything on this care is from 1995.. lol
Q. I have a video can I post it here? If so, how?
Thanks again

Forgot to mention I could not clear the codes at the end I would get 1 blink then a 5 second steady. Then it stays on.

I would proceed with replacing the MAF first. They are expensive if you get them new. You may be able to find a used one that is working. The failed MAF will cause the car to run horribly and could very well cause the sputtering. Then reset the codes. It is possible that the knock sensor may not be bad. I don't think they are a common fail item. The DME will probably not allow you to clear the codes since you still have a faulty sensor. It is possible that the MAF being bad caused a detonation occurance and the knock sensor may have given a fault code. Honestly, I don't know that much about the knock sensors. From what I understand, they are in the block just below the head. I think there are two of them (not sure on this) and are most easily accessed by removing the intake manifold.

Another site for you to look at is realoem.com. Plug in the info from your VIN and you can see part numbers and diagrams. Good work so far. Keep at it.

Originally Posted by BMR_LVR

Welcome to the Fest. In answer to your question, the float that is in the expansion tank is not necessary for the car to function and does not affect whether or not it overheats. The only purpose is to activate a warning when the coolant level drops.

Not sure how changing a starter would cause the overheating. Most likely culprits would be the fan clutch (most likely), water pump or radiator. If the coolant system has not been replaced in the last 100K miles, it is highly recommended that you totally overhaul it. The parts run about $600.

As for the misfire, that can be from many causes from oil in the plug well (from a leaky valve cover gasket) to bad spark plug to bad coil, etc.

Glad you have gleaned a lot of knowledge from this forum. Keep at it and you will get her road worthy again.

Again, welcome.

Thanks again!!! I just got done with the stomp test I got 2 codes one of Wichi I know about 1221 maf. Censor 1215 KNOCK censor I believe those are accurate. Now for q&a lol. Q. Where is the knock censor and when affect does it have when bad. Q. Does that have something to do with my sputtering? Code 1215 Q. Beside fuel percentages what else does the mass airflow censor effect if bad? Keep in mind I'm almost sure everything on this care is from 1995.. lol Q. I have a video can I post it here? If so, how? Thanks again

Forgot to mention I could not clear the codes at the end I wo

Ok I'm back so I have not yet fixed my fan issue and I could not yet get the maf sensor. But I took the car out for a drive and went to wash the car when I was done the sputtering decreased alot. I'm going tomorrow to the parts graveyard and hopefully pickup a working maf sensor, any nuts/bolts that were lost, knock sensors, fuses just in case, I checked my spark plugs and 2 had oil were the wire meets the spar plug, the coil packs are something like 4good looking 2 burnt looking like white corrosion. Oh did I mention the spark plugs still say BMW on them, are they original?
What are the best spark plugs to put in, best kind or oil to use? Also my driver window wont go down, when I press the button I just here a click like a relay same goes for my passenger mirror any help

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Originally Posted by phatness

Ok I'm back so I have not yet fixed my fan issue and I could not yet get the maf sensor. But I took the car out for a drive and went to wash the car when I was done the sputtering decreased alot. I'm going tomorrow to the parts graveyard and hopefully pickup a working maf sensor, any nuts/bolts that were lost, knock sensors, fuses just in case, I checked my spark plugs and 2 had oil were the wire meets the spar plug, the coil packs are something like 4good looking 2 burnt looking like white corrosion. Oh did I mention the spark plugs still say BMW on them, are they original?
What are the best spark plugs to put in, best kind or oil to use? Also my driver window wont go down, when I press the button I just here a click like a relay same goes for my passenger mirror any help

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I hope you find the parts you need. The two Pull-A-Parts in my area are literally gold mines! The oil in the plug wells is from a leaky valve cover gasket. If enough oil gets in there, it can cause the car to misfire. The plugs may be original. It's hard to know if the previousl owner replaced them with BMW plugs or not. The proper plug to run is a two prong copper core plug. I use NGK BKR6EK. I recommend that you stay away from the fancy schmancy plugs. They will not do anything for your car IMHO.

Any good quality oil will work well. The key is to change it regularly. I use 10W-30 in my current and previous BMW's and never had any problems. I change it at 5K intervals.

Sorry, but I can't help with the windows issue. Both of my rear windows are non-functional. I just haven't addressed them yet.

Sound good
Also when I took the intake manifold off I notice no gasket but there were rubber rings around each opening of the intake do I change those? Oh did I mention the car was sitting for 18 months or more without being turned on prior to me buying it a week ago. So I'm sure the whole car is in need of a overhaul. I just want to do it the right way with the rite products.
I thank you for all you input and help thus far :beer:

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Oh an i wanted to ask what other BMW's are compatible with my 94 525i motor wise

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Originally Posted by phatness

Oh an i wanted to ask what other BMW's are compatible with my 94 525i motor wise

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1993-1995 525 or 325.

i have a 01 740il and my coolant light comes on after driving for an hour. when i check when it cold i have to put antifreeze but i'm not leaking from engine. what could it behttp://s1.bimmerfest.com/forums/images/smilies/iono.gif

Originally Posted by DJmagic

i have a 01 740il and my coolant light comes on after driving for an hour. when i check when it cold i have to put antifreeze but i'm not leaking from engine. what could it behttp://s1.bimmerfest.com/forums/images/smilies/iono.gif

Hello DJ. Try this forum: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=156

You should be able to get more car specific information from fellow E38 owners.

Back again bimmer guys with a update on my 95 525i.
First off I want to thank Steve for all his input and help.

Ok so I went to sleep last night saying f-in BMW why can it be simple like a Toyota? Then I was thinking of all the stuff I needed to get (of course I didn't write any of it down) and how long it should take me to do the job both taking the parts off at the salvage yard and redoing the job again on my car. So after waking up saying shyt its Sunday the yards are closed I finally after a couple hours I found one that's was open. So I get to the yard and what's the luck that I have there are only 2 BMW's and neither are my model. To my surprise I look over and see the roof of a maroon car and I look at my father inlaw an said " that's it that's my car" be goes how do you know you can only see the top of it? So we walk over and behold a sight for soar eyes a 92 525i. So its stripped dam just my luck, I say lets just check an see under the hood... a gold mine complete motor only thing missing was the valve cover.
I get right to work taking everything I need and even some things I don't. Took me about 40 minutes to get everything including knock sensors and all. Sadly the maf sensor was not the same as mine so I move on. I get it all home and dive right in mind you my 525 was still sputtering and having a massive vacuumed leak and when I had my maf unplugged the sputtering decrease substantially.
Ok back to the job.
I jump in and start the process of removing the intake manifold ( to replacement some clamps that were broke and my knock sensors and the intake gaskets also I had to check for unplugged vacuumed lines if not it would have bugged me.
Ok so this time I took my time to do this to my car the first time I just threw it back together so I can just hear it run (I bought the car not running).
I notice I broke alot of clips the first time so that was part of my intake leaks (the hose that connects into the bottom of the intake).
So about 5 hours later including the driving and salvage run 2 time I replaced the following:
2 knock sensors
Oil sensor I think, it goes in the top of the valve cover
All my intake gaskets including the throttle body gasket
Cleaned everything I could
Lubed what needed it (everything)
Changed some melted hoses
Removed factory clamps and replaced with adjustable ones
Bled the coolant system again ( I was told BMW's sometimes cooling systems need to be bled about 3 times to get all air out.? Not sure if it true but it couldn't hurt so I did it twice so far (still getting hot dam fan clutch)
I cleaned around the block and where the intake meets the block
Cleaned throttle body (don't know where the iac valve is)
Replaced battery (dead cell)
Bought a cleaner for injectors lubes lifters prevents dry starting ect...
Put everything back together (taking my time) its my car not a salvage..lol
Then putting the finishing touches like hose placements an such. Bang I snap something so you guessed it back to the only open salvage yard out here on Sunday that has only 1 compatible 525 for my parts and if your a think then you guessed it bang its there and muahahaha said my evil bad luck devil "its broken muahahaha. Seriously I said so I leave go to advanced auto and haha forgot the part so the poor salesman is here showing me part pictures and nope not that one nope not that one so I say ill get the part ill brb. I get home an say dam I could have just Mickey moused it (as it is right now) sit in the driver seat and put the key in and turn it to the on position without starting the car. I say ( Lord its been 7 days since I towed this non running BMW to my house if it does not start I might go haywire). Mind you I worked on this car everyday since day 1 to hear it run ;(
Now or never I said as I turn the key, no start. My ears get alittle hot
Turn # 2 no start. I sit back take a deep breath as I wipe the sweat from my forehead
Wait a minute. The fuelrail leaks gas when you remove the intake manifold.
I grab the wheel with my left hand and the key with my right and turn and hold it for a second or 2 longer than I did the first 2 times and........?


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Originally Posted by phatness

Back again bimmer guys with a update on my 95 525i.
First off I want to thank Steve for all his input and help.

Ok so I went to sleep last night saying f-in BMW why can it be simple like a Toyota? Then I was thinking of all the stuff I needed to get (of course I didn't write any of it down) and how long it should take me to do the job both taking the parts off at the salvage yard and redoing the job again on my car. So after waking up saying shyt its Sunday the yards are closed I finally after a couple hours I found one that's was open. So I get to the yard and what's the luck that I have there are only 2 BMW's and neither are my model. To my surprise I look over and see the roof of a maroon car and I look at my father inlaw an said " that's it that's my car" be goes how do you know you can only see the top of it? So we walk over and behold a sight for soar eyes a 92 525i. So its stripped dam just my luck, I say lets just check an see under the hood... a gold mine complete motor only thing missing was the valve cover.
I get right to work taking everything I need and even some things I don't. Took me about 40 minutes to get everything including knock sensors and all. Sadly the maf sensor was not the same as mine so I move on. I get it all home and dive right in mind you my 525 was still sputtering and having a massive vacuumed leak and when I had my maf unplugged the sputtering decrease substantially.
Ok back to the job.
I jump in and start the process of removing the intake manifold ( to replacement some clamps that were broke and my knock sensors and the intake gaskets also I had to check for unplugged vacuumed lines if not it would have bugged me.
Ok so this time I took my time to do this to my car the first time I just threw it back together so I can just hear it run (I bought the car not running).
I notice I broke alot of clips the first time so that was part of my intake leaks (the hose that connects into the bottom of the intake).
So about 5 hours later including the driving and salvage run 2 time I replaced the following:
2 knock sensors
Oil sensor I think, it goes in the top of the valve cover
All my intake gaskets including the throttle body gasket
Cleaned everything I could
Lubed what needed it (everything)
Changed some melted hoses
Removed factory clamps and replaced with adjustable ones
Bled the coolant system again ( I was told BMW's sometimes cooling systems need to be bled about 3 times to get all air out.? Not sure if it true but it couldn't hurt so I did it twice so far (still getting hot dam fan clutch)
I cleaned around the block and where the intake meets the block
Cleaned throttle body (don't know where the iac valve is)
Replaced battery (dead cell)
Bought a cleaner for injectors lubes lifters prevents dry starting ect...
Put everything back together (taking my time) its my car not a salvage..lol
Then putting the finishing touches like hose placements an such. Bang I snap something so you guessed it back to the only open salvage yard out here on Sunday that has only 1 compatible 525 for my parts and if your a think then you guessed it bang its there and muahahaha said my evil bad luck devil "its broken muahahaha. Seriously I said so I leave go to advanced auto and haha forgot the part so the poor salesman is here showing me part pictures and nope not that one nope not that one so I say ill get the part ill brb. I get home an say dam I could have just Mickey moused it (as it is right now) sit in the driver seat and put the key in and turn it to the on position without starting the car. I say ( Lord its been 7 days since I towed this non running BMW to my house if it does not start I might go haywire). Mind you I worked on this car everyday since day 1 to hear it run ;(
Now or never I said as I turn the key, no start. My ears get alittle hot
Turn # 2 no start. I sit back take a deep breath as I wipe the sweat from my forehead
Wait a minute. The fuelrail leaks gas when you remove the intake manifold.
I grab the wheel with my left hand and the key with my right and turn and hold it for a second or 2 longer than I did the first 2 times and........?


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IT STARTED AND WAS PURING LIKE A KITTEN WELL BESIDES THE EXHAUST LEAK. NO SPUTTERING NO STALLING NO MASSIVE VACUME LEAK ( I DO HEAR WHAT I THINK IS A SMALL VAC LEAK BUT I MAY BE WRONG BUT THEN GAIN IM NEVER HAPPY..LOL..

But it was an experience and training that will stay with me forever (fist time owning/working on a BMW.

Thanks to BIMMERFEST AND THE GREAT PEOPLE ON HERE I can now drive my BMW with the the sunroof open and smelling like a new car thanks to this forum. Funny part was this is the short version..lol.
This might not be the right place to post all this but I wanted to share with everyone. If you have any questions or need help ill let you know whatever I learned...

Thanks Steve!

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Oh an I believe my sputtering was the intake manifold gaskets and the clip that holds the hose into underneath the intake manifold

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