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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 10-09-2005, 11:32 AM
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bmw330pp bmw330pp is offline
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Oil Pan gasket replacement

If you recall, my buddy got a 1991 525i and it has major oil leak (like a half quart a day). The guy that sold it to him mentioned that it was the oil pan, and had already bought the gasket. I decided to change this yesterday, but I stoped because I'm stuck. Do I have to remove the crossmember to remove the oil pan. If so how do you remove it, and do I need to support the engine since I see two engine mounts attached to the crossmember (I've taken off every single bolt that I can see attached to it and it still won't come loose)? Any help is truly appreciated!

Thanks,
Mark
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  #2  
Old 10-09-2005, 12:50 PM
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bmw330pp bmw330pp is offline
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bump... Come on guys I really need your help on this one.
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  #3  
Old 10-09-2005, 03:38 PM
SharkmanBMW SharkmanBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw330pp
bump... Come on guys I really need your help on this one.

go to http://www.bimmer.info/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10

they will fix you up, sorry i don't know that one!
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  #4  
Old 10-10-2005, 09:29 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I've got all the bolts off and the pan still seems to be stuck. This is my third day on this and I'm getting frustrated with it. The most info I've gotten off the internet is I have to pull the pan down enough to release the oil pump or something. I need some pics and can't find any. Can anyone help me on this?
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  #5  
Old 10-14-2005, 10:19 AM
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I finally finished that damn car last night, or shall I say at 4a.m. this morning. I will probably never work on another car again, unless it's maybe a performance upgrade.
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  #6  
Old 03-23-2008, 10:30 AM
Robecon Robecon is offline
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Changing the oil pan gasket on an E34 1989 525i is not easy; however, it does not have to be as challenging as removing the cross-member. I have done it twice (on two different engines) by removing all of the oil pan bolts and buying the star-shaped socket to remove the bolts holding the cover back by bell housing.

Then it is possible to carefully wiggle the pan so the old gasket can be removed and a new one slipped under the oil pump while the pan is effectively still (hanging) on the car (i.e., there are a few inches between the pan and the block. I was able to get my hands all the way to the bottom of the pan to ensure nothing was left behind.

Be careful to avoid ripping the new gasket when slipping it under the oil pump. I do not use gasket sealing compound so if I ever have to do it again, it should be relatively easy.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2008, 11:56 PM
AZDinan_e34 AZDinan_e34 is offline
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Hey bmw330pp, did you take any pictures of this process? jw
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  #8  
Old 04-17-2008, 08:50 AM
scotbotmosh scotbotmosh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robecon View Post
Changing the oil pan gasket on an E34 1989 525i is not easy; however, it does not have to be as challenging as removing the cross-member. I have done it twice (on two different engines) by removing all of the oil pan bolts and buying the star-shaped socket to remove the bolts holding the cover back by bell housing.

Then it is possible to carefully wiggle the pan so the old gasket can be removed and a new one slipped under the oil pump while the pan is effectively still (hanging) on the car (i.e., there are a few inches between the pan and the block. I was able to get my hands all the way to the bottom of the pan to ensure nothing was left behind.

Be careful to avoid ripping the new gasket when slipping it under the oil pump. I do not use gasket sealing compound so if I ever have to do it again, it should be relatively easy.
Greetings...this is my first post actually. I just picked up my '95 535iT last week . I will also be needing to replace my oil pan gasket as well. I read your post and crawled under my car last night to have a look. What you have said makes sense. However I do
have a question. Did you have to pull the lower pump on the driver side? The bolts on the front, passenger side, and back of the oil pan all look relatively easy to get at. However the driver side bolts look like that lower pump may need to come off in order to get at it. What was your experience? Also this looks like it could get hairy quick if say the gasket is baked on to the engine block/ leaving any debris behind in the pan..I know you said you could get your hand in thier enough to clean it out but I just want to double check. If I do end up doing this myself I will take some pics and post them here. Any more feedback/ tips would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
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  #9  
Old 04-17-2008, 02:06 PM
AZDinan_e34 AZDinan_e34 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotbotmosh View Post
Greetings...this is my first post actually. I just picked up my '95 535iT last week . I will also be needing to replace my oil pan gasket as well. I read your post and crawled under my car last night to have a look. What you have said makes sense. However I do
have a question. Did you have to pull the lower pump on the driver side? The bolts on the front, passenger side, and back of the oil pan all look relatively easy to get at. However the driver side bolts look like that lower pump may need to come off in order to get at it. What was your experience? Also this looks like it could get hairy quick if say the gasket is baked on to the engine block/ leaving any debris behind in the pan..I know you said you could get your hand in thier enough to clean it out but I just want to double check. If I do end up doing this myself I will take some pics and post them here. Any more feedback/ tips would be appreciated.
Cool. I will be doing this soon as well, but if you complete it post some pics up. Now regarding the bolts around the pump, are you talking about the power steering pump? I believe you are and yes two bolts on the front and one on the rear need to be taken off to pull the pump out alittle to get to the oild pan bolts. On websites and the bently this seems pretty easy but will take time since your in a cramped area but luckly you dont have to remove the support cross-arm from what the bently states.
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  #10  
Old 04-17-2008, 02:15 PM
scotbotmosh scotbotmosh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZDinan_e34 View Post
Cool. I will be doing this soon as well, but if you complete it post some pics up. Now regarding the bolts around the pump, are you talking about the power steering pump? I believe you are and yes two bolts on the front and one on the rear need to be taken off to pull the pump out alittle to get to the oild pan bolts. On websites and the bently this seems pretty easy but will take time since your in a cramped area but luckly you dont have to remove the support cross-arm from what the bently states.
Yeah I just ordered my Bentley book yesterday and it should be here next week. Is the power steering pump on the passenger side? The passenger side is pretty clear, but there is a pump in the way on the driver side..I guess that could be the PS pump though, I can't remember right now. It also looks like there is maybe one other bolt that is hiding under the crossmember that may require some wrist gymnastics to get at...I just remembered today that I have AAA so I am going to go for it, if it gets out of hand I have a free tow to the mechanic waiting..lol I will hopefully get at this in the next two weeks.
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  #11  
Old 10-27-2008, 06:52 AM
richardneiden richardneiden is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw330pp View Post
If you recall, my buddy got a 1991 525i and it has major oil leak (like a half quart a day). The guy that sold it to him mentioned that it was the oil pan, and had already bought the gasket. I decided to change this yesterday, but I stoped because I'm stuck. Do I have to remove the crossmember to remove the oil pan. If so how do you remove it, and do I need to support the engine since I see two engine mounts attached to the crossmember (I've taken off every single bolt that I can see attached to it and it still won't come loose)? Any help is truly appreciated!

Thanks,
Mark
The cross member is also spot welded when it was assembled at the factory. If you loosen the engine mounts, disconnect the radiator hoses and use a liting lug on the top of the engine to provide some lift you can raise the engine enough to slide the pan out and replace the gasket. I did the same and was told by some good mechanics not to drill or grind off the sopt welds. Although they were used only for assembly they do make the frame more rigid that just the bolted connections.
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2010, 11:11 AM
jeremy339 jeremy339 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw330pp View Post
If you recall, my buddy got a 1991 525i and it has major oil leak (like a half quart a day). The guy that sold it to him mentioned that it was the oil pan, and had already bought the gasket. I decided to change this yesterday, but I stoped because I'm stuck. Do I have to remove the crossmember to remove the oil pan. If so how do you remove it, and do I need to support the engine since I see two engine mounts attached to the crossmember (I've taken off every single bolt that I can see attached to it and it still won't come loose)? Any help is truly appreciated!

Thanks,
Mark
I have a 01 530i. I noticed a lot of oil on the driver side wall of the engine and for months I could not figure out where it was comming from. I changed every hose that was wet or locked wet. I finally traced the problem to the oil filter housing. I replaced the $12.00 oil filter housing gasket and problem solved.

I recently changed the oil pan gasket because of leaks.

1. Raise the car and place on stands. REMEMBER SAFETY FIRST!
2. You would need a floor jack so, stop being cheap and buy a good one. I paid $90.00 for mine.
3. Remove the engine mount nuts.
4. unlatch the fan shroud from top and bottom. No need to remove it. It has to move up when you raise the engine.
5. Drain oil.
6. Be very careful and place a piece of wood on top of the jack and place top of jack right where the tranny meets the engine ON THE TRANNY. You will have to remove the exhaust bracket attached to the tranny.
7. Gently raise the jack to raise the engine and watch the engine to make sure nothing is being stretch ( hoses or wires).
8. Raise the engine as high as possible. Don't worry if it slips off the engine mounts, it will slide back when you lower the jack or you can easily guide it back in. Do not use fingers.
9. After you raise the engine. start to remove all the nuts holding the oil pan to the engine. There are also two bolts on the transmission you'll have to remove. Towards the rear of the pan you will have different size bolts (note where you remove them from).
10. The transmission require special hex socket. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU USE THE RIGHT TOOLS. WRONG TOOLS CAN CAUSE A BOLT TO STRIP OR A DAMAGED HEAD AND THEN YOU WILL INCREASE YOUR PROBLEMS.
11. After you remove all nuts, gently pry the oil pan from the engine. Don't force it, if it seems stuck, check to make sure you have removed ALL nuts.
12. Lower the pan as far as it will go. You will not be able to completey remove it.
13. Remove the old gasket by either cutting it or sliding it under the suction pipe leading into the pan.
14. Clean all areas where the gasket will seat with a rag or scraper if needed. Avoid pieces from entering the pan.
15. Now for the delicate part. YOU WILL HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL AND SLIDE THE NEW GASKET UNDER THE SUCTION PIPE LEADING INTO THE PAN. I DID THIS FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO REPLACE THE GASKET WITHOUT REMOVING THE FRAME UNDER THE PAN OR PAYING TUFFY $500.00 OR THE STEALER $900.00 TO DO IT.
16. SO THE MAIN THING TO DO IS SLIDING THE NEW GASKET UNDER THE SUCTION PIPE (NOT REAL NAME) IN THE OIL PAN WITHOUT BREAKING OR DAMAGING IT.

17. Replace nuts and torgue. Leave engine gravel cover for one week while you cheCk for daily leaks

18. DON'T FORGET TO ADD NEW OIL.

PRETEND YOU PLACE ONE OF YOUR FEET INTO A BUCKET AND YOU HAVE TO PLACE THE COVER ON THE BUCKET BY SLIDING THE COVER (GASKET)OVER UNDER YOUR FOOT (SUCTION PIPE LEADING INTO THE OIL PAN) IN ORDER TO PLACE IT ON THE BUCKET (OIL PAN) BUT YOU CANNOT TAKE YOUR FEET OUT OF THE BUCKET.

IT TOOK ME ABOUT 3 HOURS TO DO THIS JOB.

ALWAYS FOLLOW SAFETY.
USE THE RIGHT TOOLS AND WORK CLEAN AND ORGANIZE.



Hope this helps
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  #13  
Old 01-26-2010, 08:07 AM
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cpnwrench cpnwrench is offline
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oil pan gasket replacement



Hey, I have been there, if you will wait til later, I can send you photos of how I tackled this problem....basically once all the bolts are off the pan you must use a block of wood on a floor jack and slowly jack up the pass side eng mount. just a bit not very much, then to "completely" remove the pan... you must manually turn the engine over to allow the crankshaft counter weights at the number 5 and 6 cylinder to rotate out of the way and then you should be able to slowly pull the pan down and forward to get it out.

again, i can forward you pics if you like......

good luck!!

cpnwrench

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  #14  
Old 01-26-2010, 10:26 AM
Wolf-Strong Wolf-Strong is offline
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Remember on the 6 cylinder models, you will also need to remove the mounting nuts to the power steering pump to move it out of the way.
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  #15  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:24 AM
ajdroberts ajdroberts is offline
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Hidden bolts

On a 6 cyl M30 the two hidden 10mm bolts can't be accessed by a normal socket but there is a 4" long box spanner in the toolkits of some cars and this works just fine.

If the idea is to actually take the sump off it will only come off easily if the engine is lifted well off the subframe, or the oil pick-up pipe and its gasket is removed (two 10mm bolts) to give a bit more clearance

ANdy
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  #16  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:26 AM
ajdroberts ajdroberts is offline
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Hidden bolts

On a 6 cyl M30 the two 'hidden' 10mm bolts can't be accessed by a normal socket if the gearbox is a GM auto, but there is a 4" long box spanner in the toolkits of some cars and this works just fine.

If the idea is to actually take the sump off it will only come off easily if the engine is lifted well off the subframe, or the oil pick-up pipe and its gasket is removed (two 10mm bolts) to give a bit more clearance

ANdy
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  #17  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:41 PM
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luckydog luckydog is offline
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There are about many places known to leak above the oil pan ,that many mistake for being a oil pan leak. The oil pan gasket on these are lifetime gaskets and rarely leak. 1. Oil cap at top of motor 2. 15 or so rubber oil seals on valve cover nuts. 3 valve cover gasket and plug seal gakets, mainly at rear2 rubber cam lobes 4. oil filter lid 5.(most common) oil filter gasket at block, or related oil filter gaskets- 6. Vanos banjo bolt. 7. top bolt of motor lift eye hole 8.( Most commen) power steering hose clamps. I have yet to see a oil pan leak.

Last edited by luckydog; 06-13-2011 at 11:42 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2012, 01:05 AM
jusride7 jusride7 is offline
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I have a 2002 330i and it is already day 2. Not rushing this one. I took off the tie rods using a special tool they were still good. Yes the dealer here wanted 2k to do this job and I figured while I was down there I might as well change the boots for the Rack and Pinion, lower control arm bushings, and a faulty oil pressure sensor. Oh yes not to mention the Motor Mounts! I figure shucks since I am down there. I am finding the Rack and Pinion to be a stubborn little thing. I bought the engine brace from Harbor Freight and waiting for that to come in before I continue. I had a bad feeling about this one. I will post a few pictures once I am done. This job is not for the weak. I consider myself a good, well average mechanic. The oil filler tube is another stubborn thing. It has 3 O rings that need to be replaced. All of the tools that I needed to buy and the parts that I am replacing will still save me a chunk of change. Anybody with any tips on how to remove the dipstick easier than working it like a 10 dollar hooker?
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2012, 10:55 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Welcome to the Fest. I believe you have the E46 chassis. You would likely get better information here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=98
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Quote:
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #20  
Old 04-11-2012, 12:11 PM
air_cooled air_cooled is offline
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Hey BMR_LVR the poster is a "Vet" and he is asking about a friends car ('91 525i) not his. Just an FYI.
..and from what I just read, for all it's flaws i'm happy with my M60.
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  #21  
Old 04-11-2012, 02:38 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air_cooled View Post
Hey BMR_LVR the poster is a "Vet" and he is asking about a friends car ('91 525i) not his. Just an FYI.
..and from what I just read, for all it's flaws i'm happy with my M60.
Sorry I was not clear. I was referring to jusride7 whose post was just above mine. He has 2 posts and was asking about a 202 330i. I was not responding to OP.

I guess I should have quoted to make it more clear. The poster above me (jusride7) has an E46 and was asking a question about his car.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #22  
Old 04-11-2012, 04:38 PM
air_cooled air_cooled is offline
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Oh I didn't even see that post .....No paragraphs. I guess my eyes just read right past it
Carry on
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  #23  
Old 06-12-2013, 05:28 AM
GabesJH82 GabesJH82 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy339 View Post
I have a 01 530i. I noticed a lot of oil on the driver side wall of the engine and for months I could not figure out where it was comming from. I changed every hose that was wet or locked wet. I finally traced the problem to the oil filter housing. I replaced the $12.00 oil filter housing gasket and problem solved.

I recently changed the oil pan gasket because of leaks.

1. Raise the car and place on stands. REMEMBER SAFETY FIRST!
2. You would need a floor jack so, stop being cheap and buy a good one. I paid $90.00 for mine.
3. Remove the engine mount nuts.
4. unlatch the fan shroud from top and bottom. No need to remove it. It has to move up when you raise the engine.
5. Drain oil.
6. Be very careful and place a piece of wood on top of the jack and place top of jack right where the tranny meets the engine ON THE TRANNY. You will have to remove the exhaust bracket attached to the tranny.
7. Gently raise the jack to raise the engine and watch the engine to make sure nothing is being stretch ( hoses or wires).
8. Raise the engine as high as possible. Don't worry if it slips off the engine mounts, it will slide back when you lower the jack or you can easily guide it back in. Do not use fingers.
9. After you raise the engine. start to remove all the nuts holding the oil pan to the engine. There are also two bolts on the transmission you'll have to remove. Towards the rear of the pan you will have different size bolts (note where you remove them from).
10. The transmission require special hex socket. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU USE THE RIGHT TOOLS. WRONG TOOLS CAN CAUSE A BOLT TO STRIP OR A DAMAGED HEAD AND THEN YOU WILL INCREASE YOUR PROBLEMS.
11. After you remove all nuts, gently pry the oil pan from the engine. Don't force it, if it seems stuck, check to make sure you have removed ALL nuts.
12. Lower the pan as far as it will go. You will not be able to completey remove it.
13. Remove the old gasket by either cutting it or sliding it under the suction pipe leading into the pan.
14. Clean all areas where the gasket will seat with a rag or scraper if needed. Avoid pieces from entering the pan.
15. Now for the delicate part. YOU WILL HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL AND SLIDE THE NEW GASKET UNDER THE SUCTION PIPE LEADING INTO THE PAN. I DID THIS FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO REPLACE THE GASKET WITHOUT REMOVING THE FRAME UNDER THE PAN OR PAYING TUFFY $500.00 OR THE STEALER $900.00 TO DO IT.
16. SO THE MAIN THING TO DO IS SLIDING THE NEW GASKET UNDER THE SUCTION PIPE (NOT REAL NAME) IN THE OIL PAN WITHOUT BREAKING OR DAMAGING IT.

17. Replace nuts and torgue. Leave engine gravel cover for one week while you cheCk for daily leaks

18. DON'T FORGET TO ADD NEW OIL.

PRETEND YOU PLACE ONE OF YOUR FEET INTO A BUCKET AND YOU HAVE TO PLACE THE COVER ON THE BUCKET BY SLIDING THE COVER (GASKET)OVER UNDER YOUR FOOT (SUCTION PIPE LEADING INTO THE OIL PAN) IN ORDER TO PLACE IT ON THE BUCKET (OIL PAN) BUT YOU CANNOT TAKE YOUR FEET OUT OF THE BUCKET.

IT TOOK ME ABOUT 3 HOURS TO DO THIS JOB.

ALWAYS FOLLOW SAFETY.
USE THE RIGHT TOOLS AND WORK CLEAN AND ORGANIZE.



Hope this helps
Hey jeremy base on the way your info provide did you have any hard time trying to slide that new gasket under the suction pipe and did you have a good amount of clearance between subframe and oil pan while sliding the new gasket?
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  #24  
Old 06-14-2013, 02:29 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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+1 on rare pan gasket failure. If the pan is stuck on with all the bolst out it is probably sealed. Rear and front crank oil seals - another story...
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  #25  
Old 06-14-2013, 03:24 PM
Bugsie Bugsie is offline
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Hi all

@GabesJH82:
if you really want to change the gasket, just loose the bolts and let the pan rest on the crossmember.

To get things easier, unbolt the suction pipe (from passenger side, better, exhaust side) and the gasket will quite easy. Remember there's a gasket on the suction pipe.

Cheers

Fernando
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