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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-09-2005, 08:35 PM
someguy someguy is offline
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Location: Evansville IN
 
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Mein Auto: 95 ///M3
Door pannel fix

This is a simple way to fix you sagging or lose door card. I spent about 10 min doing everything, the only catch is that you will need to let the adheasive cure or dry.

Removal: The pannel is fastened by clips and screws, there are 2 screws tucked behind the handle on the arm rest, simply pop the covers off and unscrew them, after that just pull the door card off and unplug the speakers, the speaker wires pull right out, don't be to aggresive though as you may damage them.

Things you'll need once the door pannel is off:
Pliers, and RTV silicone.

This is what it looked like before I took it off the car


This is what the repair did


Once I examined the door I found what the cause was. There is a plastic molding holding the door clips that was glued to the door card and had seperated itself due to many opening and closings.


Some of the clips were broken as well. I recomend purchasing new ones from the dealer, don't be a cheap wad. You should have these clips before the repair so that you can do everything at once. To remove the clips simply wist and pull them with pliers, they are notched and are designed to be done that way.



Remove the clips before you decide to apply the adheasive as this may cause some issues later on in the repair. To put new clips in, just twist them in with your fingers, it doesn't take much effort.


Next you simply apply the adheasive thoroughly. Cleaning shouldn't really be an issue, but if you decide to clean the area, use a mild soap and warm water. Push down on the plastic to spread the silicone around, you don't need to smooth it, let the plastic do the work for you, plus you don't get dirty.


Thats pretty much it for the repair, the next thing you'll want to do is apply pressure. I chose to use a piece of cylinder poly and laid my amp on it. You'll want to have adequate pressure to ensure a tight bond. When you add the weight, have the door pannel somewhere that will be out of ways harm. I chose the coffee table....


Let the RTV dry before you mount it back on the car. I let mine sit over night just to be safe. Simply reverse the removal process to re-attach the door pannel...and your finished
Hope this helps, it's super easy and cheap, it's not the most interesting thing in the world but I needed it fixed so I'm sure someone else does to. If you guys think I left somehting out then let me know but I think I covered everything.
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  #2  
Old 10-10-2005, 10:36 PM
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BeRzErKaS BeRzErKaS is offline
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Hey, great contribution!

This is a very common problem. You should think about submitting this to some of the BMW DIY sites so other e36ers can benefit.

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  #3  
Old 10-10-2005, 11:25 PM
bibi_mwewe bibi_mwewe is offline
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Location: Reno, NV
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 325iC
Thanks for posting this! I need to do the same thing, have even bought the plastic clips, but have just been putting it off for ages. Hopefully my experience will be as painless as yours.
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2005, 07:53 AM
someguy someguy is offline
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Location: Evansville IN
 
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Good idea....I looked on bimmerdiy and didn't see one there, so I submited it...maybe they'll host it. this was the easiest repair I've ever done....didn't get dirty and it was cheap....gotta love fixes like that.
Keith

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Originally Posted by BeRzErKaS
Hey, great contribution!

This is a very common problem. You should think about submitting this to some of the BMW DIY sites so other e36ers can benefit.

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  #5  
Old 10-11-2005, 11:11 AM
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LmtdSlip LmtdSlip is offline
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Thanks for the post. Mine isnt as bad as that but I will look into this when I redo my door handle seals.
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  #6  
Old 10-11-2005, 01:50 PM
someguy someguy is offline
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Thanks. I haven't had any issues with it either since the repair was completed, nor do I think I will
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  #7  
Old 05-13-2006, 08:00 PM
loft_man loft_man is offline
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What is RTV silicone. I can't seem to find it any where. Can you substitute with another kind of silicone?
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  #8  
Old 06-06-2006, 03:20 PM
m3 tkd m3 tkd is offline
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this is perfect i just brought a 318i and my drivers doors is just like this an i was not sure y as the clips seem to be in place.

tell me tho are the clips universal or bmw only coz we have an auto spares shop who will prob do them cheaper (i did read the cheap wad bit but chose to ignore) lol ty again
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  #9  
Old 06-07-2006, 03:48 AM
GoddardCat GoddardCat is offline
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I repaired the doors on my '94 325iC using hot glue and it worked very well. I took them off to unplug the lousy sounding middle speaker and when I did they fell apart. The inserts on my car aren't plastic but are the same material as the door panel. I had a hot glue gun and plenty of glue sticks so I chose to use them. The plastic inserts at the bottom also adhered very well with the hot glue.
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  #10  
Old 06-07-2006, 10:04 AM
gervs gervs is offline
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nice, I need to do this to my car as well, but i'm just too lazy to do so, probably in a month or so i'll finally get up and do it.

Did you buy new clips or were yours re usable.
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  #11  
Old 06-08-2006, 04:35 PM
m3 tkd m3 tkd is offline
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i just done myn 2day it worked well the top part of myn have come away tho not the bit dwn the side i brought 11 new clips and did nto need to use any of them thanks tho good job all done.


Last edited by m3 tkd; 06-08-2006 at 04:39 PM.
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2007, 11:58 AM
robertplattbell robertplattbell is offline
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You missed a spot, but great work!

There is a clip panel at the TOP of the door as well. This usually separates, particularly when removing the door panel. Many assume (as I did, initially) that this was part of the door, as it separates so cleanly that you don't realize it was originally glued to the door panel.

Remove the interior window weatherstrip (pull straight up) and then carefully pull this piece out.

Then glue it in place to the door panel (it will fit like a glove in the right location). RTV silicone, like you used, is the best. I used a latex adhesive caulk (which I had laying around) and that worked OK, too.

IN short, the door is held in on all four sides: Front and rear with the clip strips (as you show), at the top with a clip rail, and at the bottom with the storage compartments.

Make sure all FOUR items are properly glued in place. Once reinstalled, re-insert the window interior rubber gasket, and if you align it carefully, it will fill in the space between the door panel and the window just like the day it left the factory.

Here are some more pictures at:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/557789582nyYUxv

Goog Luck!

--Bob.
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  #13  
Old 02-24-2007, 06:44 AM
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LmtdSlip LmtdSlip is offline
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I am about to attempt to replace the drivers side window motor on my vert.

Any hints tips or tricks I need to be aware of?

I am concerned that my motor and regulator are riveted in and that I will have to drill it out. Anyone have any experience with using a bolt to reattach them after drilling out a rivet?
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  #14  
Old 02-24-2007, 01:17 PM
robertplattbell robertplattbell is offline
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Check the manual

I'd be suprised if the motor does not snap out like the power door lock actuator. I did this repair on my old Toyota, and the crank mechanism was riveted in, but the motor pack was a snap-on affair. Took 2 seconds once I got the door panel off.

Check your bently manual to be sure.

Expect to repair the door panel as I did (and the other posters did) as the clip strips will probably separate from the door panel. Allow a day for the glue to harden.

And don't forget that top strip. It is NOT part of the door...
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  #15  
Old 02-24-2007, 04:04 PM
zarbat007 zarbat007 is offline
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Thank you!!!!!!!!!

i door panels are smae condition as yours, this is gonna come handy.
A+!
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  #16  
Old 09-21-2007, 10:31 PM
iyad_yd iyad_yd is offline
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Mein Auto: bmw e21 1978 316
can it work on e21 doors it have wood ?
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  #17  
Old 09-22-2007, 03:16 AM
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1canary 1canary is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LmtdSlip View Post
I am about to attempt to replace the drivers side window motor on my vert.

Any hints tips or tricks I need to be aware of?

I am concerned that my motor and regulator are riveted in and that I will have to drill it out. Anyone have any experience with using a bolt to reattach them after drilling out a rivet?
Hi. Just done this to mine. Yes you do need to drill the head off the 4 rivets (unless some previous owner has already had this problem and done it for you) and replace with bolts. Make sure they are not too long so as not to interfere with regulator action. The window must be up to put the bolts in as there is very little clearance back there. If you have any specific problems them pm me.
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  #18  
Old 05-29-2008, 07:07 AM
msdion msdion is offline
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Top mounting bracket

Teen daughter's 1995 325is:

We bought the car used and are having the "normal" door panel problem. I am fixing the driver door panel this weekend, but the top plastic piece is badly broken and needs to be replaced. Has anybody had luck finding or fabricating one (or are you just putting the panel back together without the top piece if it's real broken)? Thanks!!!
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  #19  
Old 05-29-2008, 10:33 AM
Markt8 Markt8 is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 325TDS
Every BMW ive had has had a knackered or loose door card, really lets down older BMW's

Mark
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  #20  
Old 05-29-2008, 04:14 PM
playz playz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msdion View Post
Teen daughter's 1995 325is:

We bought the car used and are having the "normal" door panel problem. I am fixing the driver door panel this weekend, but the top plastic piece is badly broken and needs to be replaced. Has anybody had luck finding or fabricating one (or are you just putting the panel back together without the top piece if it's real broken)? Thanks!!!
I forgot to take pics when I did this a while ago so I am glad some one did
All of my plastic bits need re-attaching and even the map holders on bottom of the door.

You don't have to use silicon, if you have a hot glue gun(big one) use that, or any good glue that is designed for the job...ie not super glue or wood glue

With the top plastic piece, mine was snapped in 2 almost 3 places and when re-attached it is no problems at all.
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  #21  
Old 05-31-2008, 07:00 AM
Domaura Domaura is offline
1996 E36 Coupe 320i
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Mein Auto: 1996 E36 Coupe 320i
I think I need to do it too.

thanks someguy
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  #22  
Old 06-01-2008, 05:20 PM
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-Matt- -Matt- is offline
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Good job on the guide. I recently did this fix too when I replaced my door lock actuator. For those looking for an alternative adhesive I used
Scotia & Skirting Fixing Adhesive.


It is used for glueing skirting boards on - grips very tightly but allows a bit of flex. So far it is holding up well. If you are in the UK you can get it from B&Q.

Last edited by -Matt-; 06-01-2008 at 05:30 PM.
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  #23  
Old 07-11-2008, 07:36 AM
marknhl marknhl is offline
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Mein Auto: 94 BMW 325IS
great write up! I'm going to do this very soon! I'm still looking for a DIY on when the leather becomes loose on the door panels if anyone knows where that is....
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  #24  
Old 03-12-2010, 07:40 AM
bookjones bookjones is offline
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Went thru all of the glueing, stretching of vinyl and clamping but door would not stay on anyway. The cardboard looking stuff inside the door had softened to where the clips just pulled out in a few places. We solved it by drilling a small hole thru the door panel and anchoring a 2" screw in a drywall anchor. Not ideal but doesn't look too bad and the doorpanel stays tight. to reglue the vinyl I used a blowdryer to stretch the material and then glued it in place with silicone. Looks WAY better than before.
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  #25  
Old 03-12-2010, 07:47 AM
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jonesin jonesin is online now
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Location: Fort McMurray AB
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bookjones View Post
Went thru all of the glueing, stretching of vinyl and clamping but door would not stay on anyway. The cardboard looking stuff inside the door had softened to where the clips just pulled out in a few places. We solved it by drilling a small hole thru the door panel and anchoring a 2" screw in a drywall anchor. Not ideal but doesn't look too bad and the doorpanel stays tight. to reglue the vinyl I used a blowdryer to stretch the material and then glued it in place with silicone. Looks WAY better than before.
Thanks for the tip, and a huge thank you for searching!!! Welcome to the 'Fest!
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