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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 01-20-2006, 09:22 AM
hairfarmer hairfarmer is offline
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Mein Auto: 325iS
Error - 1233 Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch

I followed the advice about checking error codes using the accelerator pedal. I never knew this tecnique existed in my 88 325iS.

After trying trying the advice, the error that I recieved is:

* - ** - *** - ***

"1233 Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch"

Where do I find this, and how should it be replaced? There is no mention of it in my terrible Chilton manual.

Any body know where the "Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch" part is located?

Thanks so much for your help.


Hairfarmer
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  #2  
Old 01-20-2006, 02:40 PM
mike b mike b is offline
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Location: Westminster, Maryland
 
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Mein Auto: M5, 325i, 318is
This is part of your Throttle Position Switch (TPS). You can find that in the Bentley.
You have to do an initial adjustment for idle when you install it and the WOT position
should be good (of course you want to check it anyway to make sure).

Mike
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  #3  
Old 01-21-2006, 05:11 PM
hairfarmer hairfarmer is offline
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Is the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) the same as the Throttle Postion Sensor? Where is this located? I don't have a Bentley Manual to show me this.

thanks,

Hairfarmer
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  #4  
Old 01-21-2006, 05:23 PM
mike b mike b is offline
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The TPS is mounted to the throttle body just below the butterfly shaft. If you have the Chilton's manual #8427, you'll find the info for your TPS on page 5-16.

Mike
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  #5  
Old 01-24-2006, 10:15 AM
hairfarmer hairfarmer is offline
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Sorry, I'm a little confused.

When I ran the DME (ECU) diagnostic test, it yielded this error:

"1233 Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch"

This is the test whereby the person presses down on the acclerator pedal once, followed by four more rapid presses. This will generate a code sequence using the "Check Engine" light.

Is this error trying to tell me that I need to replace the "Sensor" or do I need to replace the entire switch?

My manual is really terrible (Chilton) and is vague about this component.

Also, once the error has been corrected, how do I "reset" the DME (ECU) back to normal, so that it no longer displays my old error. In other words, how do I clear out the old error (1233) once it's been fixed.

Here are the codes:

Pelican Technical Article:
BMW On Board Diagnostics
Jared Fenton


Did you know that your BMW 3 Series has an internal diagnostic program built into the computer? Not many people know about this. On the BMW 3 Series, there is a way that you can diagnose common engine problems without having to purchase a code tool or take it to the dealer to have it scanned. This is one of those neat little features of the Service Indicator Computer; the series of lights directly under the tachometer and speedometer that remind you to change the oil and perform service. In this tech article, I will provide you with the procedure for checking the fault codes and what the codes mean. This guide will help you to diagnose any possible problems with your car.

This article is written for both the BMW E30 and E36 3 Series cars (up to 95) and should work on both models where a Service Indicator Computer is used. I will go over the small differences between the early and late cars, as they differ slightly. Keep in mind that this procedure will not work on early cars with Motronic 1.1.

Now on the E30 models, get in the car and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the second turn or "ON" position, but do not start the car. Now, press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor, then let it release all the way back. Now repeat the depress/release cycle 4 more times fairly quickly, but not too fast. It may take some time to get this timing down correct. It should only take you a few seconds to do this. What this does is activate the wide-open throttle switch and the idle switch 5 times. This then sends a signal to the Motronic ECU to send fault codes to the Service Indicator Light.

On the E36 models, the procedure works the same way, but the timing at which you press/release the gas pedal is faster than on the E30. Just keep at it, and you will eventually get the correct speed.

Watch the "Check Engine" light. It should blink once, and then start blinking a series of four numbers. For instance, say this is a sequence you see…. the light blinks once, then twice, then four times and lastly four times. If you read it correctly this means that the SI light is reading out the code 1244 (faulty camshaft sensor) The codes appear as a series of flashes for each digit. The flashes indicating one digit are about one second apart, the next digit will appear after a couple seconds interval. If there are no faults in the car, the computer will flash out the number 1444.

Here is the list of codes and what they indicate.

1211 DME Control Unit
1215 Air Mass Sensor
1216 Throttle Potentiometer
1218 Output Stage, Group 1
1219 Output Stage, Group 2
1221 Oxygen Sensor 1
1212 Oxygen Sensor 2
1222 Lambda Control 1
1213 Lambda Control 2
1223 Coolant Temperature Sensor
1224 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
1225 Knock Sensor 1
1226 Knock Sensor 2
1227 Knock Sensor 3
1228 Knock Sensor 4
1231 Battery Voltage/DME Main Relay
1232 Throttle Idle Switch
1233 Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch
1234 Speedometer A Signal
1237 A/C Compressor Cut Off
1242 A/C Compressor
1243 Crankshaft Pulse Sensor
1244 Camshaft Sensor
1245 Intervention AEGS
1247 Ignition Secondary Monitor
1251 Fuel Injector 1 (or group 1)
1252 Fuel Injector 2 (or group 2)
1253 Fuel Injector 3
1254 Fuel Injector 4
1255 Fuel Injector 5
1256 Fuel Injector 6
1257 Fuel Injector 7
1258 Fuel Injector 8
1261 Fuel Pump Relay Control
1262 Idle Speed Actuator
1263 Purge Valve
1264 EGO Heater
1265 Fault Lamp (check engine light)
1266 VANOS
1267 Air Pump Relay Control
1271 Ignition Coil 1
1272 Ignition Coil 2
1273 Ignition Coil 3
1274 Ignition Coil 4
1275 Ignition Coil 5
1276 Ignition Coil 6
1277 Ignition Coil 7
1278 Ignition Coil 8
1281 Control Unit Memory Supply
1282 Fault Code Memory
1283 Fuel Injector Output Stage
1286 Knock Control Test Pulse
1444 No Fault Codes

Thanks,

Hairfarmer
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  #6  
Old 01-24-2006, 03:20 PM
mike b mike b is offline
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Location: Westminster, Maryland
 
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No Throttle Position Sensor on your car, the TPS is a switch, not a sensor. The switch is located on the bottom side of your throttle body. The shaft that controls the butterfly goes through the bottom of the throttle body bore and into the TPS. As you work the butterfly the switches open and close to tell the ECU one of three things: a) throttle is at idle, b) throttle is wide open c) throttle is somewhere in between positions (a) and (b). If one of the two switches inside the TPS is bad, you replace the whole unit (TPS).

My guess is you are getting the error code because the switch that signals the throttle is wide open (switch b) is closed all of the time. The idle switch (a) is probably good. When the ECU sees (a) open and close while (b) stays closed all the time, it signals the error.

Mike
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  #7  
Old 01-24-2006, 09:59 PM
hairfarmer hairfarmer is offline
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MikeB,

Thanks!

Ok. I think I get it now. But if there is no sensor, then what is telling the DME that there is a problem? Is it the Switch?

Better yet, can you please give me the part number that I should replace if needed. That would probably be more helpful.

But I do understand better how this Throttle switch is set up now.

Hairfarmer
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  #8  
Old 01-26-2006, 02:34 AM
mike b mike b is offline
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Location: Westminster, Maryland
 
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No sensor. The DME probably knows there is a problem because at some point, either at WOT or at idle, it see both switches closed. Since I guessing you don't drive much at WOT, if at all, the DME is seeing this condition at idle.

The effect of having the WOT part of the switch closed all of the time is that the DME is using a very rich fuel map for normal driving and it's causing your gas mileage to drop. There are other bad side effects of this like plug fouling and catalytic converter damage due to excess fuel in the mixture because (I've been told) the DME/ECU ignores the O2 sensor input at WOT.

The BMW part number for your TPS is 13 63 1 710 559. This differs from the Bosch part number that is molded into the plastic cover. Not having a spare sitting around here I can't tell you what that number is.

Mike
r
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2006, 10:46 AM
hairfarmer hairfarmer is offline
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Mike,

Is this TPS straight bolt-on replacement? By the way, I do drive WOT at times.

Does this have anything to do with the Throttle Butterfly Valve or the Throttle valve switch listed in my Chilton?

My Chilton covers so many models in one book that it gets confusing to keep track of all the different engine types, systems, and components. I need a manual specific for my car 1988 325iS. What would you recommend?

One final question, would you replace my Throttle Position Switch first, and do you think that's what's creating the "1233 Throttle Wide Open Throttle Switch" error on the DME. Is this TPS straight bolt-on replacement, and does it need adjustment after installation?

Sorry for the many quesitons, just trying nail it down here.

Harfarmer
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  #10  
Old 01-26-2006, 02:02 PM
mike b mike b is offline
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Location: Westminster, Maryland
 
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Mein Auto: M5, 325i, 318is
I'm not sure what Chilton manual you have. Mine calls it a Throttle Position Switch. I would guess that they mean the same thing when they say Throttle Valve Switch. It is a direct bolt on part (two screws hold it in place) and it's position relative to the butterfly position at idle must be adjusted before you tighten down those two screws. You'll need to remove the rubber bellows that connect the Air Flow Meter to the Throttle Body to gain access to it unless you have very small hands and can work in tight places.

As for manuals, the Chiltons is okay but people have issues with it. There omissions and errors and like you said, it is difficult to follow with all the models covered. Haynes also has one that covers 3 & 5 series in one manual but it is missing a lot of detail. Your best choice is a Bentley manual. The only not covered properly in that manual is the M42 engine which was used in the '91 318is.

If you have access to an ohm=meter, check that you get zero ohms across terminals 2 & 18 (I assume that you have a manual transmission other wise the terminal #s and the TPS part # I gave you are wrong) only when the throttle is at idle and zero ohms across terminals 3 & 18 only when WOT. If these are the readings you get, then your TPS is good and you can't ignore everything I previously posted. If you don't get these readings then replace it.

To adjust it:

1) make sure the butterfly is closed to the idle position.
2) turn the TPS until the switch closes when butterfly goes
from partially open to the idle position. it should click
again just as you come off idle. if you have an ohm
meter you can verify this by looking for a zero ohms
across terminals 2 & 18 on the TPS when in the idle
position. off idle is should read some high value or
non at all.
3) tighten down the screws and check with the meter one
last time before you re-attach the TPS cable and the
bellows.


BTW, if you TPS test good, the next logical place to look is at the ECU. There might be a problem with the wiring between the TPS and DME or the input circuit in the DME that reads the WOT switch position may have been toasted.

Mike
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  #11  
Old 02-21-2006, 06:26 PM
hairfarmer hairfarmer is offline
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So I got my TPS swtich that I bought on ebay today. But the there was grease and oil inside the TPS shaft hole. Is this normal?! Is there supposed to be grease and oil inside the TPS.

I'm kind of pissed about this. I've been wiping it out all night with q-tips, but I'm not sure if there is supposed to be lubrication inside the TPS. Anybody know if this is normal, and I if should waste my time cleaning it out?

thanks,

Hairfarmer
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  #12  
Old 02-22-2006, 01:20 PM
mike b mike b is offline
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Location: Westminster, Maryland
 
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A new one doesn't have lube in the shaft opening. I would be more concerned with functionality. Do you have a meter to test it with? If so, connect your leads to the center pin and one of the outside pins and rotate the shaft opening to either end. The switch should read zero ohms only at one end of rotation and no where else. Now remove the lead from the outside pin and connect it to the other pin. Do the same check but this time you should only read zero ohms at the other end of rotation and nowhere else. Once you come off the stop at either end of rotation, both switches should be open and the ohm meter should read something other than zero. If it checks out, install it. Otherwise hound the seller for a refund.

Mike
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  #13  
Old 04-17-2007, 06:46 AM
Richter12x2 Richter12x2 is offline
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Interesting - how does it know that you've pushed the pedal enough to trigger the fault codes if the TPS isn't working?

Also, if you're looking for more information on adjusting the TPS, look at PelicanParts.com's tech writeup for the E30, in the Fuel Injection Section under Idle Adjustments (or something like that, one of the last handful in that section)
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  #14  
Old 04-17-2007, 07:03 AM
SWISS SWISS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richter12x2 View Post
Interesting - how does it know that you've pushed the pedal enough to trigger the fault codes if the TPS isn't working?

Also, if you're looking for more information on adjusting the TPS, look at PelicanParts.com's tech writeup for the E30, in the Fuel Injection Section under Idle Adjustments (or something like that, one of the last handful in that section)
Like Mike said, it is 3 switches in one unit.
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  #15  
Old 04-17-2007, 07:10 AM
Richter12x2 Richter12x2 is offline
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It's two switches in one unit. The off throttle switch and the high throttle switch. One switch is made when there's no throttle applied, and the other one makes when you get within 10 degrees of max travel. But according to the guy who was quoting the Bentley manual, the signal to enter the code flashing mode in the Motronic computers is to trigger each switch 5 times (press the pedal all the way in 5 times, so you hit the switches like, hi-lo-hi-lo-hi-lo-hi-lo-hi-lo. So if the switch was bad, how would it get to code reading mode?

Honestly, before buying parts and tearing the car apart, I'd reset the switch and see if it came back, or at least test it using PelicanParts.com's procedure. If the code comes back, replace the switch. But since you got it into code reading mode, I'd lean toward possibly a loose cable vibrating as you go down the road, or a series of epileptic pedal presses when you're trying to read the codes.
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