Replacing the final stage unit/blower motor resistor (E39)

Thank you so much for this post! I'm nearly 99% sure that this is my problem but one mechanic wants to charge me $190 for the FSU and says that there are 2 different types and my 1996 328is would require the "newer" type which is magically now $150. Is he just yanking my chain? Another mechanic (hour drive away but might end up being worth it) said the part was $80 and didn't say there were 2 different types.

I wanted to say thank you for your great post! That was the most complete one I have seen, and you saved me a ton of time and money. You described exactly what my fan was doing, coming on and going off, A/C not working properly. That was the part that was causing the problem. Took me about 20 min to fix. Would have been much longer without your information. I appreciate you taking the time to put that together. Thanks again!

All I have to say is thank you to the person that posted this.....I was thinking my blower was bad and was getting myself ready for a bitch of a job changing it....I saw this post and decided to try the fsu first and it worked out.....It only took about 15 min. like you said....THANK YOU, YOU ARE THE MAN.....

Thank You, Thank you Elvis 5301. This took 15 mins with the hardest part being pulling the old FSU out because of the long heat sink and it being wedged in. Unbelievably cost savings here. $85 part and my 15 minutes. Fan works like a charm now. Did this to a 2002 530i.

Don't use the Youtube video where the tutorial has you removing the whole glove compartment and venting. Just keep wiggling that FSU and it will come out when you get it past the stuff wedged up against it.

On to replacing the batteries in my keys now!

Dan

Seems to be one of most common bmr problems ever, and such an easy DIY fix; , most dealers would charge over $300.

Great post and pics. Thanks a lot!

Good Deal!

Perfect. Thanks. The bently manuals are great procedure resources, diagnosis is another matter.

No problems with diagnosis once you have encountered it; and it won't be happening to me anymore. I have new FSU in my spare tire compartment. Seems to be a very common problem.

Note to self, most of the parts shops didn't have the FSU and couldn't get it. However, NAPA had the darn thing in stock on a Sunday. It was a little more spendy than the internet but I had it today and it was 107 by my thermometer and well worth the couple extra bucks to have working AC.

you just do what you have to do my friend. as I recall, I think I got my spare from EAC Tuning online for about $65.......and having it the trunk makes me feel ALOT more secure.

Hey Gang - hoping someone here can help me...I've replaced my FSU based on the OP's instructions (thank you!) on my E39 2001 540. Fixed my blower issues for a while. Now everytime I get in, it doesn't work until it seems the car warms up (approx 10 minutes). Then it comes on very slowly, and after about a minute works as it should. Any ideas on where to start looking? Thanks in advance.

Getting a new pacemaker tomorrow morning, so help is rather limited at this moment: where did you buy it? how long since you replaced it?

Best of luck to you tomorrow. I bought it from FCP Groton, replaced about 6 weeks ago.

Try re-setting your ventilation programs to their default values.............

This is last message I can send you for now: by the time I have had my procedure, you will have either resolved this on your own or another member of the forum will help you.............try removing the FSU, check the wiring harness to be sure all is well, check the FSU for dust, debris or other obstructions and then re-install if nothing is found. It may just be as simple as not having the FSU "seated properly" or it may have simply become defective.

Good Luck my friend. I'll have few days of "downtime" after my procedure.

Elvis - I have to tell you that my blower was working off and on in my 2004 X5 - but in 11/10 it stopped and I found your message and purchased the FSU for $40.00. Then the blower started working again until two weeks ago. I did not want to have to change it because I was afraid I would damage something and then have expensive repair bills.

I took your little instructions and did this in 15 minutes and yes - it was perfect to the letter even down to the "surprise, surprise - they don't look alike". I put that thing in and it now works like a charm!

THANK YOU FOR SAVING ME SO MUCH MONEY!! I am learning more about DIY - I put freon in my mercedes and checked pressure and everything! I wonder if I missed my calling. LOL

I hope everyone researches their problem first and comes across your posting - what a money and time saver it is.

Hi there,
Working out with similar problem as is running for 20 pages
but, after I bought FSU, and changed for new one -silence, so I replaced for another one and silence.... ???
Checked connections, cables... all seemed be fine, with old hadgehog the blower works until battery drain, but the other two -seemed be faulty?? Spent two days checking cables, resistance, isulations. If I connect pin 1 and 4 with connected new FSU or pin 3 and 5 blower working on full.
Does anyone can help me??? or give me any idea?
Car 520i e39 April 97

Thanks for help

Hate to say it, but it could be the Blower Motor itself...........

Thanks to Elvis for this brilliant thread. I have question, is the location of the FSU shown in the photos the same on my Left hand drive (spanish) 1997 525tds. i am confused !, on some of the threads and the photos in the original thread it says its located under the glovebox on the passenger side and on others it says the pedals get in the way, obviously on the drivers side. i have ordered the part but i dont want to dive in on the wrong side !!. please can someone clarify the location, thanks....

On European cars it is located on the drivers side, under the cover beside the accelerator pedal.

just replaced my on my wife's 2003 X5. It was a 15 minute job. Great instructions, thank you. My observations

1) not necessary to remove panel from under glove box.
2) important to remove wiring plug conector prior to removing resistor from its socket.
3) to remove wiring plg, squeeze side latches and then pull gently on wires. It will slide right off.

the part number ( 64 11 6 923 204 ) can be found on ebay and can be purchased for $36.99 including shipping.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R4...All-Categories

Thanks for your reply Stevendc, started the job of replacing the FSU yesterday, whent in on the drivers side as you sugested and couldnt find it, guess what, its located on the passenger side, just what i was trying to avoid in this 40 degree heat here in spain !!.

Sorry it didn't work out the way we would have hoped; we are all enduring extreme heat when an FSU is being replaced, otherwise, we wouldn't be replacing it. As for me, I endure both heat and congestive heart failure. Only you can determine if your car is a European model. The information I provided to to you was from the Haynes Manual for European models. At least you were still able to save some money, inconvenience notwithstanding.

Hi there, just finish with my issue
Happy because I came back to working order. I can back use full climate control.
So what I did - I use this link www.macadamizer.com/bmwfix.html and removed control panel hoping that will look similar to that one - but I was wrong - didn't find the capacitor to re-solder or to change it for new one, but I re solder all capacitors and all dodgy looking connections.Cleaned it up and fixed it back. Almost at the end joining panel and back with plug connections I found next to pins which going inside to front panel like loosy connections solder - so i reheat them and now look like fully placed. I wish that everything will work at least same like before to go and fight with (next) blower motor, but after when I plug old FSU nothing came up, like proper dead stuff, so I pluged new one and since now a day - got back every kind of speed and pleasure
All best for one who seeking for help - this spend me about 4hrs today evening