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5 Series DIY
Knowledge Is Power! ~ The place for do-it-yourself threads on a variety of topics. Start a thread describing a particular job (oil change, cooling system overhaul, brakes, shocks and springs, etc.) or search for one you need help with!

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  #176  
Old 04-27-2007, 08:19 AM
mark5 mark5 is offline
2000 528i w/sport package
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I have a 2000 528im the front cover molding is breaking off in squares rear window is still good. told dealer about it while it was still under cpo ,told me it wasn't under warranty and that the windshield will have to be pulled. glad I found this forum ,when I get time I will replace the cover myself. F&@K BMW.
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  #177  
Old 05-26-2007, 02:28 AM
aamirich aamirich is offline
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windshield cover

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark5 View Post
I have a 2000 528im the front cover molding is breaking off in squares rear window is still good. told dealer about it while it was still under cpo ,told me it wasn't under warranty and that the windshield will have to be pulled. glad I found this forum ,when I get time I will replace the cover myself. F&@K BMW.
I have a 2001 530i with the same problem. I bought the part from the Stealership who was quoting me over $1600 to replace the cover and was claiming most probably the glass is going to break during the process. I'm replacing it tomorrow myself.
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  #178  
Old 05-27-2007, 04:41 PM
aamirich aamirich is offline
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windshield cover

Quote:
Originally Posted by aamirich View Post
I have a 2001 530i with the same problem. I bought the part from the Stealership who was quoting me over $1600 to replace the cover and was claiming most probably the glass is going to break during the process. I'm replacing it tomorrow myself.
Hi Fellows;

Yes, I did replace it myself with no problem. It took me a little bit of time upfront to remove one of the corners. You need to remove the triangular shape rubber thing that channels the rain water on each side gently then pull on one corner and remove, continue to pull gently till the whole thing is out. Clean the channel between glass and body with "Goo Gone" which you can buy from Ace or Homedepot for $3.50 plus a plastic puddy knife for less than a buck (avoid using any metalic object otherwise you may break the glass). Lign up the top portion, insert the top corners first then the top side and go to the sides. Remember! the triangular rubbers at the corners go in last. I saved $1600 which the BMW stealers quoted me! What bastards!

If anyone in Irvine and OC CA needs help, I'll be more than glad to help if the schedule allows.

Thanks to other fellows that started this thread and provided the instructions and pictures.

Cheers!!!
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  #179  
Old 06-05-2007, 07:32 PM
turbobladz turbobladz is offline
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did mine today part cost me 27.00 dollars with my discount at my local BMW shop.
Install took me less than 30 min.
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  #180  
Old 06-20-2007, 08:29 AM
dbruce dbruce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbo3D View Post
One thing I had to do: there are two tiny rubber blocks glued into the channel across the top. When I inserted the new seal into the channel, one of those blocks wouldn't allow the seal to sit all the way in, so I pulled the little rubber block out. Not sure what it's there for, but it didn't seem to matter (anyone have any info or issues with those tiny rubber blocks?) All is flush now. I did pull off those lower triangle rubber pieces at the hood junction for easy lower access. Just be aware that those can be tricky; I nicked a little bit of the fine rubber edging, but not enough to warrant replacing. Just make darn sure when you slide them back in place after installation that you slide the lip of the rubber that runs the length of it under that piece of metal (study how it fits when you first remove it). That lip holds it in place and makes a good seal.

Finally, I took the blunt back end of a plastic knife, inserted it in the channel and ran it along the OUTER EDGE of the entire new seal to press the rubber CLOSER TO THE GLASS windshield. Based on the outline of the old seal still embedded on the windshield it looks like that's where the final position needs to be. This allows a larger trough on the outside; my guess is it allows a larger runoff channel for water to stream down from the roof to the ground.
Did this on Monday and it was relatively easy. I referenced the post above which is on page 6 of this thread.

Added info:

When removing the old trim, remove from the bottom first and pull it sideways and then up and out. Get both sides out first and then work on removing the top part. Needle nose pliers are a big help for this.

The "blocks" mentioned above are to channel the water into the trim.....so don't remove them. I used a putty knife to get the trim in the right position to allow the water to flow properly.

Getting the top portion of new trim in is a royal pain. Just keep pushing. (that's what she said....)

Takes around an hour. As everyone has said......keep metal away from the window or you'll be buying a new windshield. Goo-gone and a shop-vac help getting the crud out of the channels.
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  #181  
Old 06-20-2007, 06:23 PM
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LA525iT LA525iT is offline
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Okay, since everyone is in various stages of replacement -- has anyone discovered a good product to keep the seal from cracking again in a few years?
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  #182  
Old 06-20-2007, 07:04 PM
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jonmcc jonmcc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LA525iT View Post
Okay, since everyone is in various stages of replacement -- has anyone discovered a good product to keep the seal from cracking again in a few years?
well over the course of a few years youd probably spend about the same amount of $$ on product as you would just replacing the trim again.

I replaced my rubber trim last saturday, took me a total of 25 minutes. Im about as mechanically inclined as paris hilton.
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  #183  
Old 06-28-2007, 04:54 AM
bimmerman528i bimmerman528i is offline
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My '99 528i 145K miles has the same problem but no leak. Don't know when it started. You may have a case with the dealer at your miles. Somewhere on this web site I found the replacement part number. Found it at www.pelicanparts.com pt#51-31-8-159-784-m9. I have not ordered one so don't know how hard they are to replace. Price $38.25.
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  #184  
Old 07-01-2007, 11:54 AM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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FYI, this is just a rubber trim/cover piece. It does not seal the windshield to the car so this thing could be missing and you probably still wouldn't have any water leaks.
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  #185  
Old 07-08-2007, 01:13 AM
branndon_b branndon_b is offline
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I changed mine out a couple weeks ago myself. It's just as easy as everyone has posted on the forum. Just start at the bottom edge, dig until you find something solid (the metal edge on the edge of the windshield that is in the middle of the trim) and start peeling it out tangent to the windshield. I cleaned mine out with a shop-vac, and used a rag with some WD-40 on it. After I got it all cleaned out to my satisfaction, (I don't know that you will ever get all of the black residue goo out of it) I used a small amount of silicone spray to lube up the end of the 'seal' to get it to fit in a little easier, and started working it in with the heel of my hand. Probably no longer than a 30 min. job altogether. I know a lot of people have posted similar experiences with this DIY, but I figured that one more positive comment on this procedure can't hurt. Good Luck
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  #186  
Old 07-09-2007, 01:59 AM
Frenchy Frenchy is offline
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Mein Auto: '00 BMW 528iA Touring
Same problem

Both my 2000 528IA and 2000 528IAT have the problem of cracked cover.
Guess I will have to replace them myself.
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  #187  
Old 07-17-2007, 10:03 AM
cebradham1968 cebradham1968 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ågent99 View Post
I've notice on my 2001 530i that the rubber gasket/seal around the windshield is drying out and has cracks perpendicular to the windshield. Near as I can tell, it does not leak.

Also, the rubber gasket/seal around the rear window is looking about the same. In fact, the two upper corners have pretty much dried out and cracked off.

Yeah, I know pics would help but I'll get those up later.

How is everyone elses holding up? Any cracking at all? Hmm, I wonder if I have any recourse with BMWNA...most likely not but there is no way these should be failing on a 5-year old car with under 70k on it, IMO.
I have a 2001 530I also and I just had mine replaced in the front. It cost me about $250 because most glass companies do not automaticlly guarantee to replace your glass if they break it, and we haev the rain sensor in the glass. I do have a garage now and that helps alot. Good luck
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  #188  
Old 07-19-2007, 10:49 AM
Waveho Waveho is offline
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Add another success story! Relatively easy, and requires some perserverance to get all of it snug in the channel. But anyone can do it. Dealer quoted me "at least $700" for this job. I did for pocket change. Dealer parts dept. said he never heard of anyone not taking out the glass first and he personally has done hundreds. Said it was "impossible." Can't wait to show him my "miracle" next week....

To restate the necessary items you'll need:

rubber moulding ($35-$40)
needle-nose pliers
putty knife
Goo Gone
shop vac
a little perserverance
ice cold beverage
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  #189  
Old 07-19-2007, 10:59 AM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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Front glass is easily done without removal assuming it hasn't been removed previously. In other words, it is the original glass. The reason is that whoever replaces the glass may use quite a bit of sealent and it may ooze into the cover thus making replacement more challenging that if it was factory installed.

The rear glass cover is a different story because it slips further into the channel. My glass guy removed the rear glass to replace its cover but didn't need to remove the front, like most folks have found here.
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  #190  
Old 07-21-2007, 09:04 AM
lake balboa 525 lake balboa 525 is offline
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cracked windshield seal

I have the same problem on my 2003 525i. And its getting worse.

With the number of posts for this problem it seems as tho there is a manufacturing defect in the rubber compound. Should be a BMW problem.

recently sold a 15 year old MB and the rubber on that car was perfect after all these years in Southern California. A pretty hostile environment.

Has anyone spoken with BMW about the problem?

I really don't want to go through the nightmare of scratches, rust under the seal, and other crazy stuff after a third party fix.
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  #191  
Old 07-21-2007, 10:31 AM
Waveho Waveho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lake balboa 525 View Post
I have the same problem on my 2003 525i. And its getting worse.

With the number of posts for this problem it seems as tho there is a manufacturing defect in the rubber compound. Should be a BMW problem.

recently sold a 15 year old MB and the rubber on that car was perfect after all these years in Southern California. A pretty hostile environment.

Has anyone spoken with BMW about the problem?

I really don't want to go through the nightmare of scratches, rust under the seal, and other crazy stuff after a third party fix.
Read through the posts and see that it is a very easy DIY. Yes, there is certainly a defect in the material, but BMW is loathe to make such admissions (see string on pixel failure in instrument cluster). Probably one reason BMW won't make amends is because the problem is a goldmine for local stealerships. The dealership parts guy I spoke to told me that he has personally replaced "hundreds" of windshield covers, at a cost of around $700 per job. Do the math--big $$. He told me it was "impossible" to replace the moulding without removing the windshield. It was easy. Just do it yourself.
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  #192  
Old 07-29-2007, 08:23 PM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lake balboa 525 View Post
I really don't want to go through the nightmare of scratches, rust under the seal, and other crazy stuff after a third party fix.
This really isn't a seal...just an aesthetic cover. With careful removal (plastic putty knife and patience), you'll be fine. There won't be any rust under this cover because it is all painted under there.
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  #193  
Old 07-31-2007, 12:06 AM
c0mikal c0mikal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koogie21 View Post
Well, call me the biggest sissy in this forum, but after many months of analysis of how to fix this bum-f*ck of a problem I got it done!!!

It was super easy and the biggest issue was cleaning out the old rubber and adhesive with a vacuum. Used some Goo Gone to get the sticky stuff out (don't use too much of it though, you don't want to take the windshield off). One tip putting back in the new "COVER": Make sure you line up the top of the "COVER" first before you put down each side. It took a little time but got it DONE!!!!

Might do the rear window soon.....it is showing some effects.

Any people in So-Cal need help doing this, let me know, I like to help.

Koogs
i have a 06 e90 and my windshield is already starting to crack. I tried to replace it under warranty at bmw riverside, and they said they would do it, but if they cracked my windshield i would have to pay $1000 for a new windshield. Can you post a DIY with pictures to replace the windshiled seal?
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  #194  
Old 07-31-2007, 06:30 AM
Waveho Waveho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c0mikal View Post
i have a 06 e90 and my windshield is already starting to crack. I tried to replace it under warranty at bmw riverside, and they said they would do it, but if they cracked my windshield i would have to pay $1000 for a new windshield. Can you post a DIY with pictures to replace the windshiled seal?
If you do a search on this string, you will find what you are looking for. BUT I don't know if this is applicable to the e90. I would contact BMWNA to double-check your warranty. No way should you be responsible if the dealer cracks the windshield.
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  #195  
Old 07-31-2007, 08:26 PM
azaytsev azaytsev is offline
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I need to replace a rear window seal and there are two seals for my car: one FOR VEHICLES WITH BURGLARPROOF GLAZIG and one FOR VEHICLES WITHOUT BURGLARPROOF GLAZING. How can I tell witch one should I buy?
Thanks

#3 and #4

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...49&hg=51&fg=05
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  #196  
Old 08-01-2007, 06:08 AM
Waveho Waveho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azaytsev View Post
I need to replace a rear window seal and there are two seals for my car: one FOR VEHICLES WITH BURGLARPROOF GLAZIG and one FOR VEHICLES WITHOUT BURGLARPROOF GLAZING. How can I tell witch one should I buy?
Thanks

#3 and #4

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...49&hg=51&fg=05
I would get whichever is cheapest. My understanding is that, unlike the front windshield, you may have to have the rear window removed in order to replace the rubber cover. Anyone have success on the DIY for the rear?
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  #197  
Old 08-01-2007, 07:47 PM
McCandless McCandless is offline
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I had no problem replacing the rear one on my 99 528i. If I remember correctly, I posted some pictures of it way earlier in this thread. As with the front one, the hardest part is digging out the end so you can peel the rest of it out of the groove and off the edge of the glass. Believe NOTHING the stealers tell you about this particular subject. They are so locked into "the book says" that they find it impossible to even consider that there might be an easier way...
As far as the burglarproof or not: I suspect NOT but the only way to tell for sure is get your local parts person to look it up using the VIN or look for a copy of the build sheet. Rumor control has it a favorite place the factory workers stuff it is under the back seat.
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  #198  
Old 08-24-2007, 04:28 PM
Waveho Waveho is offline
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Most of everything on this topic has been covered, but I want to point out a link to a DIY thread that I completed earlier on replacement of the LOWER flashing to the windshield, also called the cowl flashing, as well as the cowl itself, which I found in utter disrepair. I've got some revealing before and after pix as well.

So if you done the rubber cover replacement, you're about 1/2 done! Take a look at my thread if you would like to complete the fix:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=225722
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  #199  
Old 08-24-2007, 09:06 PM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waveho View Post
Most of everything on this topic has been covered, but I want to point out a link to a DIY thread that I completed earlier on replacement of the LOWER flashing to the windshield, also called the cowl flashing, as well as the cowl itself, which I found in utter disrepair. I've got some revealing before and after pix as well.

So if you done the rubber cover replacement, you're about 1/2 done! Take a look at my thread if you would like to complete the fix:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=225722
Start a new thread or better yet, post it to the DIY section.
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  #200  
Old 08-27-2007, 12:42 PM
luvnhatemya6 luvnhatemya6 is offline
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Cracking of exterior rubber can be prevented. Apply 303 Aerospace protectant to all exterior rubber and seals every 6 months - it moistens the rubber, and includes a UV protectant to prevent cracking.

Sounds like a particularly good idea on Bimmers, sounds like they screwed up the rubber formulation and forgot to put the graphite in or something. Graphite is what makes tires black, and is a UV absorber.
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