E30 Resource Thread

Originally Posted by Mike_Check

I thought this was a sticky...not a q/a forum...

Shouldnt you be chasing genetic throwbacks? Or something?

Originally Posted by Lanc3r

Shouldnt you be chasing genetic throwbacks? Or something?

I've got a helpful one on windows
none of mine worked when I got it
remove the handle trim (slides towards back of car) remove lock button.roll down window manually. Unscrew armrests slowly remove door panel.
now slowly peel back inside plastic and if its already torn someone else already jacked with your car. Watch for black mold here to.
now wd-40 window lifting mechanism and roll window up. Wd-40 mechanism again. Roll window down. Repeat 5 times then try the switch. In the back the door switch has to be plugged in to complete the circuit.
if no luck from switch then disassemble switch and scrape off corrosion with flat head screw driver. Wd-40 reassemble reinstall
I saved my self $125 per assmebly plus $25 switch per window. That's $600!!!This is a good time to move around the snaps on the door panel and move some from the back or less used door to the driver side as to help it stick on better

Another relatively easy fix is the electric antenna
if it does not extend/retract fully then undo the bolt outside the car holding down the antenna
Pull apart antenna and wd-40 everything very well and work antenna back and forth until it will collapse and open under its own pressure
now to the "collar" this needs to be wd-40 also and bend back the tabs jus barely enough to let the antenna drop down under its own weight
reinstall

Loose E-brake fix

Remove e brake boot. Remove surrounding console (bolt under ashtray) there are 2 bolt that secure the e brake line. One for each side.
release e brake and see how much the bolts move forward with slack
now tighten bolt til there is a tiny amount of tension then back off til there's 1mm of slack. Reinstall everything. Then end
If you cannot sufficiently tighten fromthis point the you need to life the rear of the car on jacks. Remove one lugnut from each side. Rotate rim until empty hole aligns with star opening behind hole. You will need to insert a screwdriver and twist til there is tension and the brake is partially engaged. Then back off quarter to half a turn
all done

The e brake should be fully engaged at 6 clicks and should not be lifted past 8 clicks
mine went to 14 and some and I was able to cure mine with just the adjuster bolts under the boot

I saw the thread, but the link wasn't available any longer. Any where else to look?

E30 Specifications:

Model, HP, 0-100 (Km/h), Topspeed (Km/h)


1983
318i - 102hp 11,2s 183km/h
320i - 125hp 10,4s 196km/h
323i - 139hp 9,2s 202km/h

1984
318i - 102hp 11,2s 184Km/h
320i - 125hp 10,4s 196km/h
323i - 139hp 9,2 202km/h

1985
318i - 105hp 11,2s 184km/h
320i - 125hp 10,4s 196km/h
323i - 143hp 9,1s 202km/h

1986
318i - 105hp 11,2s 184km/h
320i - 125hp 10,4s 196km/h
323i - 143hp 9,1s 202km/h
Alpina B6 - 210hp 7,0s 230Km/h

1987
318i - 105hp 11,8s 184km/h
320i - 129hp 10,2s 195km/h
325i - 170hp 8,3s 215km/h
325iX - 170hp 9,2s 210km/h
325iC - 170hp 8,7s 214km/h
M3 - 195 6,9s 230km/h

1988
318i - 105hp 12,1s 182km/h
318iS - 113hp 10,8s 188km/h
320i - 129hp 10,6s 197km/h
325i - 170hp 8,3s 218km/h
325iX - 170hp 9,2s 212km/h
325iC - 170hp 8,7s 216km/h
M3 - 195hp 6,9s 230km/h

1989
316i - 100hp 12,1s 182km/h
318i - 113hp 10,8s 188km/h
320i - 129hp 10,6s 197km/h
320iC - 129hp 11,5s 195km/h
320iT - 129hp 11,5s 196km/h
325i - 170hp 8,3s 218km/h
325iX - 170hp 9,2s 212km/h
325iC - 170hp 8,7s 216km/h
325iT - 170hp 8,8s 214km/h
325iXT - 170hp 9,7s 208km/h
M3 - 195hp 6,9s 230km/h
Alpina B6 - 254hp 6,6s 246km/h

1990
316i - 100hp 12,1s 182km/h
318i - 113hp 10,8s 188km/h
318iT - 113hp 11,7s 188km/h
318is 16V - 136hp 9,9s 202km/h
320i - 129hp 10,6s 197km/h
320iC - 129hp 11,0s 195Km/h
320iT - 129hp 11,5s 196km/h
325i - 170hp 8,3s 218km/h
325iX - 170hp 9,2s 212km/h
325iC - 170hp 8,7s 216km/h
325iT - 170hp 8,8s 214km/h
325iXT - 170hp 9,7s 208km/h
M3 - 215hp 6,7s 241km/h
M3 SE - 254hp 6,7s 248km/h

1991
318iT - 113hp 11,7s 188km/h
318is 16V - 136hp 9,9s 202km/h
320iT - 129hp 11,5s 196km/h
320iC - 129hp 11,5s 195km/h
325iT - 170hp 8,8s 214km/h
325iC - 170hp 8,7s 216km/h

1992
316iT - 100hp 13,9s 179km/h
318iT - 113hp 11,7s 188km/h
318iC - 113hp 12,0s 187km/h


1993
316iT - 100hp 13,9s 179km/h
318iC - 113hp 12,0s 187km/h


Hope thats readable =)

how about a walk trough on oil pan replacement?

Maybe how to get the shift knob off in the first place?

Originally Posted by bgavares

Maybe how to get the shift knob off in the first place?

Pull on it directly up.


Seriously.

hmmm... service light reset?

I know there was a DIY writeup around here somewhere.

Edit: found it:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/sil.html#reset

Good thread. I hate to admit that a few years ago when I was sorta green on vacuum leaks, I was looking all over for one with no luck. Later a fellow came by to buy something I had on Craigslist, he was there before me and he heard my engine on the way up. Turns out he and his dad are E-30 o'philes, we got to talking and he said "why-oncha pop that hood and start it up again." I got out the carb cleaner and it was the biggest possible source of vacuum leak -- the intake manifold gasket!

Oopsie.

Idles just fine now.

Originally Posted by MasMore

how about a walk trough on oil pan replacement?

remove radiator, loosen motor mounts, buy 10mm ratcheting wrench with flex head, spend 1.5-2 hours taking out tons of 10mm bolts. If you have an auto there is a plate to remove on the trans bellhousing to get the last few bolts. those are T7 torx bolts but a 7 or 8mm socket will get them off. Reinstallation is reverse of removal.

Originally Posted by bgavares

Maybe how to get the shift knob off in the first place?

Originally Posted by Lanc3r

Pull on it directly up.


Seriously.

ahhhhhhh hahahahahahahahah.


eh hem...




hahaha.

Leaks in the vaccum lines under the intake are very common. Mine were just plain falling apart. Also the vaccum hose from the valve cover is prone to cracks from old age and valve adjustments. Hope this helps.

Link for timing belt replacement does not work. Anybody have instuctions?

Originally Posted by NJROB76

Link for timing belt replacement does not work. Anybody have instuctions?

There is a sticky that is the E30 maintenance manual. Id start there.

Also, a Bently manual is invaluable and pretty cheap nowadays.

Thanks for the help

I've got an '83 UK 323i here in the states. The 6 cylinder.

Where can I find information on the fuel pump, fuel relay, or fuel injection system for that model?

Or do you know how to troubleshoot those so I can figure out how to get it running again?

Everything from dashboard swaps to timing belt replacement

A big THANK YOU to the folks who documented the processes and procedures necessary to keep our E30's on the road and looking good

Pelican Parts Technical Articles

Bimmer DIY

E30 BMW DIY

BMW Tech Tips

Please add links and grow this thread into a comprehensive E30 DIY source

I just paid to have mine done, but here is a good link on rear subframe bushings.
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/subframe.html
Even tells you how to make a homemade tool for the job.

Here's another.
http://e30world.com/

Originally Posted by JohnMadd

Here's another.
http://e30world.com/

Good stuff, John Thank you.

http://www.e30clubsa.co.za/forum/ind...showtopic=4594

Here's one to remove your cluster. I'll probably do this sometime in the very near future.

So my cars got some miles on her around about 500k but hey shes still stock and ran great til i hopped in and she didnt want to idle and after i revved her up to 3 grand she cleared up now its a constant miss Anyways heres a few things going on.......in 5th gear at 2500 rpms i can let out of it and see the economy gage go near 40mpg and it sounds like shes cuttin out I dunno the only thing i can figure is a vacuum leak to happen in one night