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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 09-26-2009, 05:41 PM
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If you go to www.e38.org/e39 ...scroll down to the bottom of the left column and you can download an owners manual in PDF format directly to your computer. There are also other manuals there for navigation screen or the business MID, phone and bluetooth manuals too.

If your model year isn't listed...download the year that is closest to yours...there arent' many differences between models years...in fact you could read an e38 owners manual and figure out all the little details about your car. BMW uses a lot of similar components and functions thru-out all it's models.
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2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
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99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
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  #27  
Old 09-30-2009, 06:41 AM
5 BMW 5 BMW is offline
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Alarm system

When the car is locked I can open the gas tank door. I will need to replace the actuator and replace #53 fuse in the trunk and reinitialize my keys as described in previous threads, but...

My remote will no longer turn off the alarm nor will putting the key in the door turn off the alarm. What should I do....no matter what the alarm will sound without me being able to turn it off.
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  #28  
Old 09-30-2009, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5 BMW View Post
...My remote will no longer turn off the alarm nor will putting the key in the door turn off the alarm. What should I do....no matter what the alarm will sound without me being able to turn it off.
Sometimes the alarm siren itself dies. There's an internal (rechargable) battery in the alarm siren. It is located behind the wheel well on the rear passenger tire. It's an easy replacement and not to expensive.

Here's a thread from Bimmerforums that discusses this issue...take a read of Jamesdc4's replies in this thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ce+alarm+siren
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #29  
Old 10-06-2009, 01:59 PM
jiawei jiawei is offline
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help me !!!!!

Help needed!!!

My car is a 2001 530i with dinan upgrade.
My remote key did not work since last night, I tried to reprogram the key as other people tell me.
1 close all doors
2 put the key in to the ignition, and turn it to position 1 (the panel light came on, I can see the mileage, but the radio is not on)
3 turn the key back off
4 hold the unlock button and press the center lock button 3 times
5 release the unlock button

But nothing happened.

I took the car to a local shop where I used to go, (they are very good at fixing BMW, I never have any problem with them, they always know what wrong with my car) they don't know what wrong with the remote, they were guessing maybe is the key? They are not sure.

I drove to the dealer, and I talked to one person in the service department, he told me I have to let they take a look at the car (diagnosis), it will cost me $130. I told him ok and I make appointment. I also asked him how much they charge for reprogramming the key, he said it is free. So I asked him how to reprogram the key? Is it turns it on and off, hold and press 3 times and release the button. He said yes and he will try it for me, after his try, nothing happened, so he told me I need a new key.

But the key that I have looks brand new, all the label, sticker still on it. I bought this car for just 3 months, and it was fine for all those time.

So I went home and look up on the internet again, and I found this page, so I look for the central locking system. And the fuse was blown, I put a new one in, disconnect the wires to the actuator, and I tried to remote, it still not working, I tried reprogramming it, nothing happened. i diconnect the battery, and put it back on and try the remote. it did not work. So I connect the wires back to the actuator. Like 20 min later, I tried to reprogramming again, nothing happened, I look at the fuse again, it is blown.

Is anyone have any idea of what is wrong with the car or the key? If the actuator is bad, why after I replaced the fuse (the wires were disconnecting to the actuator) and I still can't use the remote or reprogramming it?

quote:
"I am still having the same issue again. I spoke to my brother (BMW Mech) and it seems that my Fuel Door actuator might need to be replaced. He told me as a temp solution, just to unplug the fuel door actuator and replace the fuse. This should keep the fuse from burning out until I am ready to replace the fuel actuator.

But I do have the same problems, replace the fuse and a few minutes later or right away the fuse is blown. As soon as I can take my car up to see him and tells me exactly what is wrong, I will update you guys. This will hopefully save you the cost for a diagnostic as I get them free. "

Last edited by jiawei; 10-06-2009 at 02:06 PM.
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  #30  
Old 10-09-2009, 06:40 AM
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HEY GUYS I OWN A 2002 525i I'VE RECIEVED IT WHIT ONLY 1 KEY CAN I REPROGRAM IT (SINCE IT DOESN'T WORK) WHITOUT KNOWING IF ITS THE MASTER KEY OR NOT......PLS HELP ANONE
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  #31  
Old 11-20-2009, 12:05 PM
sandyjb sandyjb is offline
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This might seem like a dumb question but I wasnt able to figure out what needed to be unplugged in order to disable the actuator. I just need a temp fix to get my remote working until I get the actuator fixed. Can someone please point out in the pic what needs to be unplugged? Many thanks!
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  #32  
Old 11-20-2009, 06:53 PM
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If you are referringn to disconnecting the electrical harness to the fuel filler door actuator...then follow the GREEN emergency release handle as it runs behind the black plate. Or did you try pulling the fuse for the central locking system...if you didn't know...there's a fuse index & diagram on the back of the battery compartments fold down door. The alphabetized index should also give you the fuse number...then look at the DIAGRAM and it will give you the numerical location of the fuse within the gang box secured above the battery that you have shown in your picture.

The fuel filler door actuator is located BEHIND that black plate (see #17 in the diagram below)...#23 in the diagram IS that black plate you see in your picture...and the GREEN emergency release pull is #18 & #19:




And BTW...you may want to check fuse #53...you have a 10a fuse in there and it should be a 7.5a fuse...but I have a Touring...perhaps my fuse index is different than yours:

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 11-20-2009 at 07:03 PM.
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  #33  
Old 11-20-2009, 07:06 PM
sandyjb sandyjb is offline
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Thank you for the quick reply QSilver7!
So I am basically supposed to disconnect 18 from 19 in order to disable the actuator? Would you mind telling me what the green emergency release does?
The fuse replacement doesn't work, it almost instantly blows out the next one the second I put it in. Someone reported putting in a 10A fuse and it fixed the problem for them but it blew even that.
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  #34  
Old 11-20-2009, 07:37 PM
ecjr173 ecjr173 is offline
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So i tried every thing that you guys suggest to do. This is what i am dealing with: I have a 2000 528i and the remote doesnt open or lock the doors. If i insert it into the door it works fine. I checked the fuse and it is not blown. When i lock the doors manually the fuel door locks. when i turn on the car the fuel door doesnt lock. i tried reprograming the key (i only have one) but it doesnt do anything. what could be the problem. Do i need a new key.
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  #35  
Old 11-20-2009, 08:29 PM
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Likewise I have a 2003 530i where my key has been operating sporadically and has now completely cut out. My gas cap stays locks when I lock the doors using the key and the fuse is not burnt out. I attempted to program the key using the procedure noted above multiple times to no avail. Unfortunately I only have one key - am planning on selling one of my kidneys next week to get another one though. Should I just consider this key dead?
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  #36  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandyjb View Post
1. So I am basically supposed to disconnect 18 from 19 in order to disable the actuator?
2. Would you mind telling me what the green emergency release does?

The fuse replacement doesn't work, it almost instantly blows out the next one the second I put it in. Someone reported putting in a 10A fuse and it fixed the problem for them but it blew even that.
1. No... #18 & #19 are the fuel filler door's emergency release cord. To disconnect the lock ACTUATOR for the fuel filler door (from the central locking system), you need to pull the electrical harness that goes to the actuator. If the actuator is the culprit...disconnecting its electrical power will prevent it from blowing the fuse & preventing the central locking system from not operating correctly.

2. The green cord is the emergency release for the fuel filler DOOR in case of power failure (dead battery) or other event where you can NOT open the fuel filler door under normal circumstances.

item #6 = fuel filler door
item #17 = fuel filler door locking actuator

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 11-20-2009 at 09:58 PM.
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  #37  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:17 PM
sandyjb sandyjb is offline
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Got it! Thank you so much! That makes it very clear now! Much appreciated!
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  #38  
Old 12-26-2009, 12:47 AM
MAJ 5series MAJ 5series is offline
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Hi Yah. I have an diamond key, when never worked when I bought it and the second started to stop wokring intermidently, you have to keep perssing the button, one in 10 presses works. Its the same for locking and unlocking.
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  #39  
Old 01-18-2010, 08:15 PM
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bmw7833 bmw7833 is offline
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Ahhhhhhhh, somebody help me!!!!!!! My remote on key not working!

My key is the old type with a round lock button in the middle.

Checked my fuse box and all fuses are working.

When i locked the door using the key, my fuel door also locked.

Tried the initialization process but still can not works:

1. Locked the door by the key from outside
2. Unlocked the door by the key from outside
3. Close all the doors
4. Insert the key to ignition and turn the key to position 1 and switch off within 5 sec
5. Press the unlock button for 10 sec
6. Press the lock button 3 times quickly [the unlock button still hold on] / Press the lock button 3 times in a space of 10 sec [the unlock button still hold on]
7. The signal is flashing 10 sec after i release unlock button
8. No reply from my remote..??

Which step i went wrong?
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Last edited by bmw7833; 01-18-2010 at 08:24 PM.
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  #40  
Old 01-18-2010, 08:55 PM
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You appear to be doing everything right...I don't know why it's not working. The only thing is...you performed the process for the new style key which requires the lockin/unlocking of the central locking system...that' not required with your key. BUT...I don't see why that would create a problem:



Perhaps this alternative method may work?


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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #41  
Old 01-20-2010, 05:16 PM
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bmw7833 bmw7833 is offline
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Tried your way, still can not.

Any idea how to check if the antenna malfunction?

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
You appear to be doing everything right...I don't know why it's not working. The only thing is...you performed the process for the new style key which requires the lockin/unlocking of the central locking system...that' not required with your key. BUT...I don't see why that would create a problem:



Perhaps this alternative method may work?


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  #42  
Old 01-20-2010, 07:29 PM
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Lurch09 Lurch09 is offline
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I had this same problem. The cheap solutions were a no-go (ie the key initialize and fuses). There were two other possible (and far more expensive) possibilities. Thankfully mine turned out to be the cheaper which is the Antenna Amplifier which i believe is located in the C Pillar. I had this done at the dealer ~400 for the part and then some for labor.

The other was the General Module (IIRC) behind the dash on the passenger side. This has to be coded to the car and is about 800.

Just throwing these possibilities out there FYSA.
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  #43  
Old 01-21-2010, 07:26 PM
Brandonb Brandonb is offline
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Need Help

Having some trouble with the 2001 BMW 525i that I just picked up today (immaculate condition, and I got a great deal so I figured I could deal with the problems).

Anyways, to sum it up, 1*The trunk does not open and 2*the key remotes do not work.

1*) I feel that first I need to figure out what is going on with the trunk. I have tried the trunk button below the steering wheel, with no response. I have also tried inserting the key into the trunk lock... it turns but will not open. Yes I have tried using two master keys and they both work fine on the doors/ignition... but not the trunk.

2*) I have checked the gas door after locking the car, and it does open. However, I have not attempted to replace the fuse in the trunk yet... for obvious reasons.

So I am curious. Does anyone have an idea about how to solve the trunk situation? and is it possible that all of this is related? The only thing that I have been able to speculate about so far is... maybe the trunk was locked with a programmed master key, and then the keys were deprogrammed somehow, and now when I try the key in the trunk it thinks that I am trying to use a valet key... but again, that's just an idea.

If anyone can help me with solving these problems it would be greatly appreciated!


EDIT: I got the trunk to open. Apparently I didn't turn the key far enough (stopped turning when I hit increased resistance and mistook it for the end of the turn).

So now that I can get into the trunk I will try to replace the fuse and reprogram the keys. Though I'm still concerned about why the trunk-pop button below the steering wheel doesn't work?

Last edited by Brandonb; 01-21-2010 at 08:36 PM.
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  #44  
Old 01-21-2010, 09:17 PM
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chiefwej chiefwej is offline
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My gas door actuator also blew the fuse. I disconnected it replaced the fuse, and the system worked. I then sprayed some WD40 on the gas door plunger and worked it a bit, reconnected the actuator, and it's been working perfectly for over a year now.
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  #45  
Old 01-23-2010, 04:59 PM
Brandonb Brandonb is offline
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I replaced the fuse and now the gas cap and remotes kinda work.
However the keys only hold a charge for about 30secs after coming out of the ignition. I can lock/unlock the doors once or twice before it stops working.

So I now have two new questions.
1) Does anyone have any sort of instruction on how to replace the batteries in these keys?

and 2).... NVM, Let me check the forum first, as it pertains to the trunk and is not relevant to this thread.
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  #46  
Old 01-23-2010, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandonb View Post
... I'm still concerned about why the trunk-pop button below the steering wheel doesn't work?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandonb View Post
...However the keys only hold a charge for about 30secs after coming out of the ignition.

1) Does anyone have any sort of instruction on how to replace the batteries in these keys?
Do you have an owners manual? If you do...you really need to read thru it or turn to the back and look at the index on the subjects you have questions about. Some clues are right there (if you have a manual) ....the manual will give you a frame of reference and instructions on how things work on your car.

If you don't have a manual...you can download one in PDF format directly to your computer which is even better...cause you can use your computer to search thru the manual using specific keywords. You will find several e39 manuals at the bottom of the left column at www.e38.org/e39...if your model year is NOT listed...download the one closest to your model year...you won't miss a thing with a manual that is a few years ahead or behind yours.

For example...the trunk can be separated from the central locking system if you insert the key and turn it horizontal ( -- ) then pull the key out. The trunk can NOT be opened with the interior trunk release button nor when the doors are locked/unlocked with the remote key. When in "secure mode"...the trunk can only be opened manually with the key...or if you use the TRUNK button on the remote key. If you leave the trunk lock cylinder in the vertical position ( | ) you can then use the interior button and the trunk locks/unlocks along with the doors when ever you use the key (manually or remotely) CHECK THE POSITION OF YOUR TRUNK LOCK CYLINDER...it may be in the "secured" horizonatl position.


The key on e39s with a build date FROM 9/99-up have a rechargable battery (the key is sealed) and it is charged while the key is inserted into the ignition cylinder. If your keys are NOT keeping a charge...you need to take a long drive, or leave them in the ignition (in at least position 1) over night....if you have a battery charger...hook it up to the jump start location in the engine bay to keep the car's battery from dying.

Note yellow highlighted text in image below:

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #47  
Old 01-23-2010, 06:29 PM
Brandonb Brandonb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
The key on e39s with a build date FROM 9/99-up have a rechargable battery (the key is sealed) and it is charged while the key is inserted into the ignition cylinder. If your keys are NOT keeping a charge...you need to take a long drive, or leave them in the ignition (in at least position 1) over night....if you have a battery charger...hook it up to the jump start location in the engine bay to keep the car's battery from dying.

Note yellow highlighted text in image below:
....
Thanks for that quick response QSilver

I had read most of that info in one of your earlier posts and gave it a try (recharging in the ignition). I had driven about 3-4 hours today (two trips of 1hr+) and the key battery charge still does not last for more than a minute after I pull it out of the ignition.

Realistically, the key has a 9yr old battery... and batteries can only be recharged so many times. So from what I can tell, no amount of recharging is going to make a difference. So I hate to hear that it's sealed because I would MUCH rather swap a battery for <$10 than swap an entire key for... Probably >$80 right?

Do you know if this style key is used with more than just E39s? I may want to ask in a more general forum to see if anyone has tried to replace the battery directly
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  #48  
Old 01-24-2010, 07:22 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandonb View Post
Do you know if this style key is used with more than just E39s? I may want to ask in a more general forum to see if anyone has tried to replace the battery directly
All BMWs built during your production run from 9/99 -up to when ever BMW changed over to the keys they use now are the same.

And yes, you can crack open the key and desolder the old battery off the circuit board and resolder a new one on. Some have success and some don't.

Just do a search...and you should find several DIYs for doing this. The first DIY write-up I saw for replacing the rechargaable batteries in these keys was on an e46 forum...but it has been discussed.

You may be able to find it by using google as well...just hone in on some good "keywords" and it will probably give you some hits from the various BMW forums that covers replacing the battery in this type of BMW key.

Good luck.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #49  
Old 01-24-2010, 09:09 AM
Brandonb Brandonb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
All BMWs built during your production run from 9/99 -up to when ever BMW changed over to the keys they use now are the same.

And yes, you can crack open the key and desolder the old battery off the circuit board and resolder a new one on. Some have success and some don't.

Just do a search...and you should find several DIYs for doing this. The first DIY write-up I saw for replacing the rechargaable batteries in these keys was on an e46 forum...but it has been discussed.

You may be able to find it by using google as well...just hone in on some good "keywords" and it will probably give you some hits from the various BMW forums that covers replacing the battery in this type of BMW key.

Good luck.
Thanks, I was actually reading those threads while you were posting this
I have ordered all of the supplies, now I wait...
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  #50  
Old 01-24-2010, 10:23 AM
glitch860 glitch860 is offline
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I know that this thread has been beat to death but I am stuck. My situation seems unique to all the rest..

1999 540

Most the time I cannot Lock the car using the remote. Sometimes it works.

If I manually lock the car with the key, I can always unlock with the remote. - I Believe this proves that the battery is good in the remote.

The trunk unlock button always works - Further proof the battery is OK.

When I hit the lock button on the remote, I do see the LED on the key light up briefly - I would think this proves that the button itself is working.

I tried the steps in this forum to re-initialize the key with no luck. - The gas cap does lock when I lock the doors with the key.


Any ideas?

Thanks guys!
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