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E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-16-2015, 03:49 PM
///Mariani ///Mariani is offline
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Mein Auto: 05 E60 545i, 84 E30 318i
N62 VANOS Issue

Hi guys, My E60 is broken and she doesnt seem to want to be fixed.

Ill start with about a year ago. I started to have rough idle issues during the colder months, the whole increased emissions warning came up. "Dive moderately or risk damage to catalytic converter" something along those lines. It threw a few codes but I have since forgot them because the issue went away for a while.

Well then another issue sprung up so Ive been sidetracked from the first until now. The second issue was that when driving along enjoying a totally awesome ride, I would feel multiple stutters in rapid succession, feels like if I were to jab at the break pedal with good amount of force but really fast. This would only last for a few secs but would do this multiple times while driving and only when i had been driving for a while. I figured this new problem was electrical because at night my dash lights would flicker when the stuttering came along, and even my headlights. After a bit of troubleshooting I found it was a bad alternator but the reason for the bad alt was something to cry even more about.

Both Valve cover seals were leaking, and upper timing case seals as well as the dreaded, the infamous, the most cruely placed seal of ever: the alternator bracket seal. That seal along with the LH valve cover seal and probably the LH upper timing case seal leaked all over the alternator, and though now very well lubed with Royal Purple Full Synthetic 5w30, it wasnt alternating very well. After crying for many hours at the thought of doing these seals myself or paying the local indy $3K+ I finally went ahead and did them myself. And My God, never again do i want to do something as painful ever again. I work on military helicopters and this 5 series made working on those look like cake.

So after the job was all done, now im having those VANOS issues again. Rough idle on startup. Used to be (before this seal job) i could just turn the car off, then back on and it would be just fine. Not the case anymore. The first start was so bad, the check eng light was flashing on and off and it was so rough i thought i was damaging somthing. I did the auto VVT relearn and It got better. Not sure if I did it right but The roughness is gone. but still get the light and the increased emissions warning. And the Rad fan turns on full blast the whole time. For that i probably left a connector off or somthing.

Havnt driven it yet, just thought Id post the so fars to see if anyone has had a similar problem or could point me to a previous thread that has probably been created about this. Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2015, 04:40 PM
H F H F is offline
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You might want to check the CCV's and rule them out .. They will definitly give u a rough idle and trip the emmissions error . It's simple to check'em and replace ..
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Last edited by H F; 02-16-2015 at 04:42 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2015, 06:28 PM
///Mariani ///Mariani is offline
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Just checked them and they seemed fine. Popped the caps off again to see if I messed them up during reinstallation. The springs stayed upright, the orange diaphragms are still like new. I started the car up again and she purrs beautifully, but now im noticing a bit of a whistle comming from the vacuum pump area. It was sort of unnoticable under the noise of the Full blast aux fan. I remember when taking the pump off, I broke the tiny hose protruding from the front of the pump, but it was still long enough to reach the pump. But it does look a little cracked up nearest the pump so maybe I need to replace that bit of the hose. Not sure if I have time to mess with this week but well see.
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Old 02-16-2015, 07:37 PM
H F H F is offline
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A whistling noise is surely a vacume leak which will throw an emissions error . That little hose leads to the muffler flap valve under the driver tail light in the trunk .
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  #5  
Old 02-16-2015, 08:47 PM
///Mariani ///Mariani is offline
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Ah good to know. I will probably grab some hose of the same size tomorrow and cut off the portion thats dry and cracked and add in the new stuff with a plastic union.
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Last edited by ///Mariani; 02-16-2015 at 08:48 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-16-2015, 10:34 PM
H F H F is offline
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You might as well replace the whole piece of hose , it runs across the front of the engine . Then under the air box and the rubber hose connects to a plastic tube that leads to the trunk . The connection is by ground bolt . Here is a picture where the two meet .
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2015, 11:23 AM
///Mariani ///Mariani is offline
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So I got to take another look at it today. It seems my leak is not commig from the crusty hose that I once suspected. Ill still looking into replacing due to its crustiness, but H F I think you originally nailed it with the CCV diaphragms. They look fantastic but I think one might be going.

So I started the car again, this time with the fan unplugged so I could hear more clearly. Heard the whistling noise again. This time I could swear it was coming from the injectors on the RH side. I removed those for the VC gaskets. So I made sure they were secure, and still I had a whistle, but it seemed to have gotten better, but thats about it. Those injectors are in there good, and I still get a bit of hiss when the car idles. So then I went back to CCVs and I decided to play around with them. By this time, I had the car running longer than the previous runs and I started to notice smoke rising from the RH side of the engine (exhaust area). So I turned the car off, took the right CCV cap off and took the spring out, and got about the same result. Then I put the spring back in and pressed and played with the diaphragm with the car running and got some interesting noises, but same result. Then I swapped diaphragms and springs and now the hiss stopped on the right side, and Im pretty sure I hear it on the left now but its faint. Now smoke rises from both sides of the motor after about 5 mins of running. It smells like burning oil but its not as profound as burning oil usually is. (synthetic maybe smells less burny maybe? I realized that Ive never had a car that ran full synthetic and burned it before. When my E30 used to burn, I could tell right off the bat.)

So could this little diaphragm be causing all of this?
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Old 02-19-2015, 11:50 AM
H F H F is offline
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They do cause the rough idle and trip the emissions error when the diaphragm cracks . But I would toss'em out and replace'em just for piece of mind . But check the ribbed vacume hoses , wiggle them around a little if they crack it will cause that hissing noise from vacume loss . What I did did to mine was wrap them with electrical tape to avoid future cracks .

Also sounds line you have a valve cover gasket that's leaking . It will drip on the exhaust pipe and prolly why your smelling that sweet synthetic burnt smell . Lol
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Old 02-19-2015, 12:08 PM
///Mariani ///Mariani is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H F View Post
They do cause the rough idle and trip the emissions error when the diaphragm cracks . But I would toss'em out and replace'em just for piece of mind . But check the ribbed vacume hoses , wiggle them around a little if they crack it will cause that hissing noise from vacume loss . What I did did to mine was wrap them with electrical tape to avoid future cracks .

Also sounds line you have a valve cover gasket that's leaking . It will drip on the exhaust pipe and prolly why your smelling that sweet synthetic burnt smell . Lol
I am praying to the Bimmer Gods thats not the case. I do not want to do those again. Ive actually been wanting to test my work out by taking it for a drive, but I want to sort this idle out first. I did some feeling around and diddnt notice any oil around the Valve covers. If they are leaking still, then

So I will get those diaphragms on order and see what comes of it.
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:58 AM
///Mariani ///Mariani is offline
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So the diaphragms came in today, but sadly no fix. But my idle is perfect now. Not even a slight rumble. She sits around 700 cold with none of that small fluctuation going on. And revving it feels fantastic. But still I get a whistle along with increased emissions warning. It seems to have relocated to what sounds like the intake near the rear of the engine somewhere. If I play with the Right diaphragm I can change the whistle and sometimes even stop it for a brief moment. I noticed the CCV hose connecting to the Right valve cover was vibrating quite a bit. Sort of felt like touching an idle control valve before starting a car. So I removed, inspected and cleaned the packings and reinstalled and lost the vibration, but still a whistle.

And BTW I still get smoke from the cats after a while. Wherever this leak is, It must be letting oil go into the intake and through the cyls and burning in the cats, hence the warning from the computer. When I do rev the motor, huge gales of smoke exit the tail pipes.

So my valve cover job seems to have fixed the problem of relinquishing my oil externally, and giving some to the alternator, to now giving it away internally and handing some to the cats.

And lastly, I searched for leaks using some carb cleaner but still nothing. No revving or chocking. Not even a flame. Nothing. Heres a video so yous can here. Engine was already warmed up by this time.



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Last edited by ///Mariani; 02-26-2015 at 10:02 AM.
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  #11  
Old 02-26-2015, 04:53 PM
H F H F is offline
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Does the CCV whistle with the cap on ? When you push on the diaphram with the cap off it breaks the vacume seal so in essence it should whistle from escaping vacume around the circumference edge .

Did you double check the valve tronic motors ? When I did mine I some how did not torque the bolts all the way down on the passenger side motor . Then I got a vacume leak and tripped the emissions error . Kept hearing a whistling noise . After I tightened the bolts the whistle went away and so did the emissions error... Just thought I'd mention that just in case .
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:06 PM
///Mariani ///Mariani is offline
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Yea caps on or off, that whistle remains present. I used gut n tight torque on everything because I cant seem to find any specific torque values. I got those vvt bolts nice and tight without stripping, but im more than willing to try it.
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Old 02-26-2015, 08:40 PM
H F H F is offline
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Well I don't think they should be whistling with the cap on .. Could be what's tripping the emmissions error , whistling is vacume escaping . Are any tabs broken on the cap that would cause the cap to be lose and not hold the diaphram tight ? Or cracked .
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