E46 M3 (2001-2006)
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might purchase '02 m3/need some help
2002 M3, 28k miles, black, convertible, navi, SMG, 2 year/100k powertrain for $32k-33k
is the price good? how reliable are those cars? i have never owned a german car (comming from Japanese), and was told that it will have some serious reliability issues.
thanks for inputs
What cars are you coming from? My wife has a Hyundai Santa Fe, and if it were not under warranty, we'd pay more for its repair work thus far than on my recently purchased 01 330i w/ 60000 miles. Of course the maintenance will be more, but if you can find a quality/honest indy mechanic, it's well worth it! They usually charge 1/2 of what dealers do to repair. HAve you driven this car? I'm sure it is a dream, and well worth it! (assuming you won't drive it too much in those Boston winters). Everyone LOVES their bimmers, even though they cost more than others to repair.
comming form Nissan Maxima 5-speed. 0 rerairs with 160k miles, just good care. and i do drive alot in winter. if i get a bimmer, i will defenatly buy winter tires and wheels.
what do you think about the price?
Coming from a japnese car, the M3 is going to require a greater investment and time and money for repairs. Not that it's unreliable or anything, but BMWs in general have more technology and thus, often have higher repair costs. Add to that the fact that its an //M, you should be prepared to shell out some cash.
But once again, it shouldn't be bad to the point where it's in the shop every month for something stupid. I mean, its lots more reliable than say, a MB C32 AMG. Just keep in mind you've got that race engine and transmission.........(may I suggest a 6-speed manual? SMG can create issues I think)
2. check to make sure if inspection 1 was complete (that can cost a $1000)
32?k Sorry not going to happen unless the car has been on the lot for ever. (well maybe..... if you get one for 32k I will be sad LOL)
Good shape I would say $35-37k
I have had zero problems with mine.
M cars are high performance cars, maintenance and wear and tear is going to be more than a lower performance car. This is true of any high performance car.
As with ANY car, you can get a good one or a lemon.
My experience with Japanese cars is that they are no more reliable than any other car. It is funny when you talk to many J car owners they talk about how reliable their cars are, and when they are done listing the problems they have had, they have had more problems than our American cars had.
Some parts for BMWs are stupid cheap, others are rather expensive.
And while it may be true, I do find it hard to beleive that you car was NEVER in the shop. If so, why get rid of it?
'95 Alpine M3 LTW
'00 Dakar M Roadster
'02 Topaz M3
Red/White SRF #4 (Chassis 561)
BM dealer told me that he will sell me the car for 32k (btw. its FULLY LOADED).
i had 2 Maximas. one '95 (165k miles) and one '98 (120k miles). both have been totaled. on '95 i have replaced 2 oxygen sensors and starter (300 buck w/ labor). on '98 i have replaced muffler (120 bucks with labor), one oxygen sensor ( 100 bucks), and AC Dryer with ac line and full ac service (total cost around $300)
Last edited by Kolyan2k; 08-06-2006 at 02:44 PM.
The interior trim (titan shadow) the part where you grip to shut the down is so cheap. Mine has totally cracked and it looks bad. I am looking to replace that soon.
will probably buy the car tomorrow. it has full service record and INSPECTION 1 has been done and all recalls fixed. it's black/dark blue with brown leather. the dealer will also give me hardtop for free
yeah it's cool. i believe its pretty expensive too. it's used though and i will pay to repaint it.
heres a MP3 from the madrussian
taken from the mad russian post for mp3 iPod mod
This install takes 45 minutes to an hour. This one is not difficult per say but if you do not have the super secret special BMW round pin removal tool (61 1 132) it can be a royal pain in the ass. Oh, and you're almost assured skinned knuckles.
Though a "tool" can likely be fabbed up from some 4mm (ID) tubing I just said the hell with it and bought the BMW piece for about $40 or less - why, cause I was lazy and I'm a bit of a tool whore :-) You can call the best parts guy in the business @ Crevier BMW - 714.835.3171 x2275 - Talk to Vaheh Bashikian (aka Jet) or email him at email@example.com and tell him I sent ya!
Seriously, the dimensions on the tool are 4mm id and 4.25mm od - if you can find a metal tube with dimensions that are close to this you should be able to use it. Someone at a forum posted that a 3/16" tube worked after the outside was sanded down a bit. Like I said, I bought the tool...
Step 1: Getting the required items together
This install requires:
BMW iPod Interface Kit p/n 65 11 0 392 133
Apple iPod or iPod mini
10mm socket or wrench
5/8" drill bit
A BMW M3 (E46) without Navigation 9/01 or later production.
45 minutes to an hour of free time.
iPod Interface Kit
Step 2: Disconnecting the Battery
Battery is behind the passenger side wheel in the trunk below a plastic cover
Pull up the trunk floor carpet and backing
Pop out the rear light pod (see image)
Pull up the trunk liner above the plastic battery cover
Turn the two plastic "bolts" 1/4 turn to release the cover
Pull out the plastic cover
Using a 10mm socket or wrench loosen the NEGATIVE terminal
Pull the negative terminal off the post and push it aside so that it does not contact the negative post by accident
continue next post.
Last edited by ase2dais; 08-15-2006 at 05:25 AM.
cont'd iPod mp3 mod
Step 3: Removing Interior Trim
Two trim pieces need to come out in order to access the radio, etc.
Have to be REALLY careful with the trim: Patience and even pressure will pull the stuff off, yanking on it will earn a bill for new pieces.
Starting at the edge of the trim on the passenger side and using a screw driver wrapped in a cloth, etc. pry the edge of the trim up.
This trim piece is attached with 4 pins and interlocks with the trim piece above the radio.
Once the first piece is out the piece above the radio has to come out.
Trim piece above the radio is attached with 2 pins and the side nearest to the steering column is a bit of a pain to get out. Slow and easy if you force it you'll be buying a new piece.
Starting The Trim Off
Trim Lifted Up
First Trim Piece Off, Corner Of Second Exposed
Trim Off And Radio Exposed
Step 4: Removing The Glove Box
Empty out the glove box
First the plastic pins that hold the strap (right) and damper (left) to the glove box tray have to pop out.
Pressing on the inside end of the plastic pins will start them out - they can be pulled out from there or if stubborn a screw driver will most certainly pop them out.
There are 6 screws holding the glove box in as well as a series of tabs at the back.
3 Screws along the top edge, 2 on the right side and 1 on the left side.
Once the screws are out the glove box can be leveraged out by pulling it forward toward the seat.
There are 2 power connections still connected to the glove box so just pull it out enough to release and then set it on the floor.
Disconnect the power to the glove box light - just simply pulls out.
Disconnect the power to the flash light charging unit - squeeze the 2 tabs on the plug to pop it off.
Note how the wiring is threaded around the plastic tabs and make a mental picture so that you remember how it goes back in.
Set the glove box aside for now.
Right Side Pin
Left Side Pin
Glove Box Light
Glove Box Flashlight
Step 5: Removing The Radio
Note: BMW claims that you have to remove not only the radio but the HVAC unit below it, the radio/HVAC bracket and the center vent in order to install the interface - I see no reason to do this...
The HVAC unit requires a special tool (or a set of thin steak knives) to pop out and the vent is a royal pain to remove.
Either way you can do all of this (though with an increased risk of skinned knuckles) by just removing the radio itself.
To release the radio the two retaining screws have to come out.
Step 6: Unplugging The Radio
There are 2 plugs on the back of the radio
On the right there is a small plug (antenna) which pops off with a squeeze of the tab on the connector
On the left there is the mother of all radio connectors with is a bit more tricky to pull off
There is a clip of sorts that holds the large plug in place.
The clip slides up to release the plug. A Small screw driver easily pops the clip upward to release the plug.
Once the clip is up the plug will come off but may take a bit of effort since its rather tightly attached.
Once both plugs are disconnected set the radio head unit aside
Radio From The Back
Popping The Clip
Step 7: Taking The Plug Apart Part I (the easy part)
The large plug is actually 2 plugs in one
Toward the bottom of the large plug there is a small plug secured buy a blue clip
The clip just slides out to the side (may have to start it with a small screw driver or a knife)
Once the blue clip is out the small plug will pop right out
Blue Retaining Clip
Small Plug Removed
Step 8: Taking The Plug Apart Part 2 (the hard part)
4 of the pins have to be removed from the large plug
The pins are a royal pain in the ass to remove without the "proper" tool though I'm fairly sure one can be fabbed up from tubing (see my note on the subject in the header of this DIY)
To remove the pins the slide clip has to be pushed all the way up (it will click into position once all the way at the top).
The pins are numbered on the plug: The following have to come out #5 (violet/white), #7 (white/red), #9 (red/green) & #15 (brown)
Pins To Be Removed
Super Secret Pin Tool
Close Up of Pin Tool
Know Thy Enemy
Step 9: Plugging in New Wires Into Large Radio Plug
The iPod interface harness comes with 4 wires with round pins on the end just like those that just came out and with matching colors.
The pins from the iPod interface need to go into the large radio plug.
Violet/White #5, White/Gary #7, Red/Green #9, Brown #15
The pins simply slide in and lock into place - make sure they are completely seated.
Step 10: Installing The New Plug
The 4 pins removed from the large plug have to be inserted into the new 4 pin plug that comes with the interface kit
The pins just slide in and lock into place - make sure they are seated all the way.
The plug has a rounded and a squared end - starting from the rounded end the order is Brown, White/Red, Red/Green, Violet/White - an easy way to see if they are going in the correct way is to just match it up to the plug on the iPod interface wire - they have to correspond.
Once the pins are in the plug, plug it into the iPod interface harness
Pins In New Plug
New Plug Plugged Into iPod Harness
Step 11: Dealing With The Small Plug
This only applies to cars with a phone or with "phone prep" - I assume this also includes all cars with BMWAssist (which was my scenario)
2 of the pins in the small plug that was removed from the large plug you took apart need to come out.
The small plug has a cover - to pop it off pull up the little black tab and slide the plug out of the cover
The #3 (yellow) and #8 (black) are the pins to be removed
These are FAR easier than the round pins. A small knife or watch screw driver can be used to depress the little metal tab and then the pin will pull right out.
Removing The Cover
Removing The Pins
Step 12: Transferring the pins to iPod Interface
This step is subject to the same phone/phone prep stipulation as Step 10 - if you did not need to do 10 you do not need to do this one
The yellow and black wires pulled out of the old plug in the last step need to be plugged into the identical plug on the iPod interface harness
The pins need to go into the same locations (#3 for yellow and #8 for black) as they were on the old plug
The pins will just slide in and pop into place - make sure they are seated
Once the pins are in slide the covers back on the new and old plugs
Pins In iPod Interface Plug
Covers back On
Step 13: Putting the Small Plug Back Into the Large One
The small plug (the one where the yellow and black wires were added) from the iPod interface need to go back into the location on the larger radio plug where the old small plug was before.
Looking from the front of the large plug the small plug has to go into the space on the right.
Plug simply slides into place and is then secured by sliding the blue retaining clip removed in step 7 back into place
Step 14: On to the Glove Box
You have to drill a hole in the upper rear left corner of the glove box in order to thread the iPod connector in.
The "ideal" location is 5/8" from the back and 7/8" from the top edge.
The hole needs to be 5/8" but most drill bit kits will only include bits to 1/2" - I drilled a 1/2" hole and then used my Dremmel with a sanding bit to open the hole up just enough to accommodate the plug.
Step 15: Installing the Grommet
Cut the grommet on one side - from the center hole to the edge (do not cut the whole grommet in half!)
Run the iPod connector wire through hole in the glove box with the iPod connector end (rectangular end) in the glove box
Slide the sliced grommet on to the iPod connector wire and push it into place in the hole in the glove box
Grommet In Place
Step 16: Threading the Wire
Place the glove box on the passenger side floor and pull as much of the connector wire out as you can out of the glove box
Run the iPod connector wire up through the back of the dash and into the radio area
Step 17: Connecting the Interface Box
Slide the rubber/foam sleave on to the interface box
Run the interface plug (black harness that you connected to the large radio plug) under the plastic radio bracket so that it goes under and behind the center section (horizontal part with the hole in it - see image) and comes out in the rear right side.
Plug the interface plug (black) in to the socket labeled "Radio" on the interface box and the white plug from the iPod connector into the socket labeled "iPod" on the interface box.
Slipping On The Interface Sleeve
Threading The Plug
Both Plugs In The Interface
Step 18: "Mounting" the Interface Box
There is an adequate amount of room at the rear right side of the radio space to "mount" the interface
The interface has to slide plugs first into the space and takes a bit of wiggling around to get it in place (careful wiggling as to not damage the plugs)
The side most forward on the interface has to be at most flush with the center post for the radio to mount correctly (horizontal section with the hole in the center).
Once in there it will stay put - I have not had any noise issues, etc.
Interface Tucked Away
Step 19: Reconnecting the Radio
The large and small plugs have to go back on the radio
The small antenna plug simply slips back on
The large radio harness plug needs to be seated and then the top sliding clip needs to be pushed down in order to lock the plug completely in place
Step 20: Reinstalling the Radio
This can be a bit tricky since there are a few more wires connected to the left side of the radio
It took me a few minutes of fussing around and trying different scenarios of pushing wires this or that way until the radio slid all the way back in Patience, patience, patience
Once the radio is back in place replace the screws and snug things down
Step 21: Reinstalling the Glove Box
First plug in the glove box light and flash light charging receptacle
Make sure to thread the wires around the glove box the same way as they were originally (see step 4)
Pull the iPod connector wire back into the glove box as much as you can
The glove box has a series of tabs at the back and 2 "hooks" at the front corners
Start putting the glove box in from the end and swing it up and forward into place.
Start by installing the front 3 screws back into place
Finish by replacing the other 3 screws
Once all the screws are back in reconnect the strap on the right and the "damper" on the left - the pins simply push back in
Step 22: Reinstalling the Trim
Start with the piece over the radio
Do not push the pin on right side of the radio trim piece all the way since the other trim piece has to go over it as well
Replace the second piece of trim and press down firmly in order to seat all of the pins and make the trim sit flush with the rest of the dashboard
Step 23: Reconnect the Battery
Reverse the steps taken in Step #2 to reconnect the battery and button up everything in the trunk
Step 24: Plug in the iPod
If everything was done correctly once the iPod is plugged in you will see BMW on the iPod screen
Test to make sure the iPod is being controlled by the radio, etc - bandage skinned knuckles, enjoy!
Oh, and reset your clock
iPod Plugged In And Happy!
CREDITS to the mad russian post
Last edited by ase2dais; 08-15-2006 at 05:22 AM.
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