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Do-It-Yourself H.Q.
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  #251  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:30 AM
tblt44 tblt44 is offline
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The original fluid should be carmel color like motor oil. At least it is on the GM transmissions. The red stuff is ok as long as its designed for your ZF transmission. What fluid did you us
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  #252  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:16 AM
irrogical irrogical is offline
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I used the Valvolene max life fluid - still has the Esso comparability label on the quart bottle; I have a Zf 5HP19.

I called the dealer today on my way to work, I am of course being 'blamed' for changing filter. I told home light was on before filter change, and that mollified them. Apparently my 'codes' are internal transmission faults - ouch!

He couldn't remember what the codes are so of course that's no help to me. Sounds like I'm going to need a good Indy in Boston / Metro-West soon.

--roger
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  #253  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:51 AM
tblt44 tblt44 is offline
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Is the transmission functioning better now with the fluid change?
A new trans is big money.You may find a shop to get you a used one about 1500 or rebuild yours.
First you may want to try getting the light reset to see if the fluid change helped.
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  #254  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:20 AM
irrogical irrogical is offline
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Codes were 31,35, 36: internal slipping. The input shaft and output shafts are not turning in the proper ratio. Having called a couple people so far, sounds like a new tranny is the way to go cost wise. People don't sound like they want to rebuild a Zf, they just replace it. (That includes a transmission specialty place.). I have prices of 1600 for a used on w/ 6 months warranty and 2950 for a reman with 12 months. Both unlimited miles. I am being told +/- 9 hours labor for a straight swap. Looks like I'm in it for about $4k, which is still less than the dealer wants for the transmission alone albeit with 2 yr warranty

--roger
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  #255  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:23 AM
irrogical irrogical is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tblt44 View Post
Is the transmission functioning better now with the fluid change?
Seemed to me like everything was fine until the light came on. I can't tell a difference in how it drives before or after the new fluid or new fluid and filter.

--roger
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  #256  
Old 05-10-2013, 03:29 AM
firefoto firefoto is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 325ic
AT service & coolant lines replacement

When I bought my car, the transmission blew the front transmission seal within a month of purchase. Although not covered by warranty, the seller replaced the transmission with another est 120k trans at no charge. 2 years later the trans coolant line hoses are leaking and need replacement. The hoses were rubbing against the sway bar and were seeping there but were also seeping from the swage fittings on their ends. It looked like an engine oil leak since the fluid was brown. I figured the valve cover was leaking but when we hoisted it, we found no leaks from the engine and lots of trans fluid under the car. Scary since you can't check the fluid level. My oil change service guy wasn't checking the fluid so we could have been low on trans fluid.

I work at an adult career center and had my ASE class do the work. Your description was spot on for the trans service.
Replacing the lines was very difficult. Don't try to do this without a lift. You'll go crazy! Tough to remove the lines and even tougher to install new ones. The quick connects did not disconnect, plastic release collars disintegrated so we had to destroy the retainer tabs in the connectors. Snaking the lines over the rack and around everything else was difficult...but can be done. Install and remove from the rear.
We used Mercon V Valvoline, 6.25 qts. Bought a fluid vacuum hand pump at NAPA for $13 to pump it in. Had to put smaller fuel line hose into the pump hose to fit into fill hole in trans. Remove cap of pump to fill with Mercon. Screw lid back on and pump into trans. Easy but slow.
My instructor is a diesel & HD truck service mechanic and runs a large truck service facility. He is very familiar with transmissions. Said watch out for chunks in the trans pan, are pieces of the lock up plate disintegrating. I had a couple. Said Mercon V is a full synthetic fluid used in all the newer transmissions and the bottle says replacement for Ford trans fluid and Dexron III.
My transmission had a green sticker on it.
Took about 1.5 nights of 3 hours classes to do all this while instructing the students.
The transmission is running perfectly. The car has 140k on it and about 130k on transmission. I will be having the class do transmission service on all my vehicles. After seeing the trans filter almost plugged, and the off color fluid coming out, I believe this condition would have shortened the life of the transmission considerably.
BTW, instructor believes this is a European Ford transmission. The filter had a Ford part number.

Thanks so much for the detail on how to service and fill the transmission! It took about 4 quarts before we started it and another 2.25 quarts after we started, ran through gears and left in idle and neutral.
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  #257  
Old 06-17-2013, 04:56 PM
Augster Augster is offline
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So the inlet transmission oil cooler line broke and I drove the car approximately 5 minutes/5 miles before truly realized what was happening with the tranny warning light coming on. The dealer wanted $1,200 to replace the oil cooler and busted line, but doesn't know the status of the transmission (they can smell burnt transmission fluid in the transmission). After getting towed back, I'm going to replace the cooler and line myself, but also do a complete filter and fluid change, and just hope for the best.

Since the last meaningful comments on ATF were made between 3 to 4 years ago, with Valvoline Maxlife (Dexron/Mercon) heavily recommended then, if not selecting the more expensive OEM Esso LT 71141 (I have the A5S 325Z tranny). Do these recommendations still hold true (Valvoline Maxlife and Esso LT) as the ATF to use? If Valvoline Maxlife has proven to meet or exceed BMW specifications by now, then I'd go for it.
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  #258  
Old 06-20-2013, 06:07 PM
firefoto firefoto is offline
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been driving the 325 for over a month since the fluid change and it seems to be running just fine. Unfortunately a fluid leak developed but this time it's in the high pressure line to the power steering pump. Probably was there all the time but the transmission hose leak was far more leakage. So we'll replace that too. Then maybe we'll have a dry bottom!
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  #259  
Old 06-22-2013, 09:39 PM
Duane Sagar Duane Sagar is offline
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hi everyone i have an04 x5 with zfga6-hp26 trans can any one tell me for sure what trans oil was put in this from new, the vehicle is comong up to 100 thousand miles and i want to do an oilchange (bmw dealer told me not to do it that it would cause problems)
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  #260  
Old 09-25-2013, 03:32 PM
bimmerZ5 bimmerZ5 is offline
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Mein Auto: Z3 3.0i Rdstr, E39 530i
Quote:
Originally Posted by adaseb View Post
Big Pain checking this fluid. Took me an entire hour almost to raise the vehicle and make it level. Wish there was a dipstick.
while i can't answer your question, I have to say I agree with you that adding a dip stick for $10 or so would have been very useful. but for some stupid reason, BMW has been getting rid of dip sticks... friends with newer BMWs all have engines that don't have an oil dipstick anymore and rely on the electronic sensors that have been known to fail; i've never heard of a dipstick failing...
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  #261  
Old 11-03-2013, 04:38 PM
badvlvo badvlvo is offline
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Good thread here. I will be doing the next round of maintenance on the e46 myself and the trans is due to be serviced this time. Im an experienced wrench, but this answers any questions I may encounter while doing this service. Thanks!
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  #262  
Old 12-03-2013, 11:31 AM
Redz284u Redz284u is offline
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for some reason, I found that my transmission pan screws are t27?????? the t25 fits but its very loose. maybe at some point the original owner had them swapped??? anybody else have t27 6mm x 22mm screws???
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  #263  
Old 12-03-2013, 08:52 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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I don't think it matters. T25 or T27. Most people have a set. Tighter is always better to avoid stripping.
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  #264  
Old 06-23-2014, 12:12 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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By way of update ... This excellent picture & fact-filled DIY was just written today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > DIY: 1998 BMW 528i MANUAL Transmission & REAR Differential Fluids UPDATED version
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
DIY: 1998 BMW 528i MANUAL Transmission & REAR Differential Fluids UPDATED version

* To see the original DIY from May 2006 (@88K miles), scroll down to see it. This is for updated version of what I just did at 141K miles.
See also:
- ATF: Automatic transmission fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) & automatic transmission fluid & filter DIYs (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & torque values (1) & how to find the hidden E39 transmission fluid level dipstick (1) & why ATF gushes out of the fill hole (1) & ZF 5HP19 facts (1)
- Differential: Rear differential hypoid gear oil (1) & differential fluid change DIYs (0) (1) (2) (3)
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Please read the suggested threads and add value, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #265  
Old 08-22-2014, 10:36 PM
glhx glhx is offline
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As somewhat of an update

I changed to max life at 110,000

At 130k ......I believe it's my 3rd gear is slipping when I go from 4th to 3rd. I give it heavy gas......it drops down and slips for about 3 seconds.

I have been getting codes that my transmission sensor is acting up, unsure why

I smelled burned clutch last time.


How I changed the fluid.
With 25 quarts of max life until all the old fluid was gone. Max life is red.....esso is brown. All he fluid was red. Car was up in the air.....wheels turning and fluid level with the drain plug. Gears were shifted while changing. Replaced 2 filters for the heck of it to get any trash out of there.

Coincidence....maybe. I'm going to have to tear it apart and find out. Upgrade it and......well......ZF told me to use their life guard semi synthetic fluid. They also told me bmw is semi synthetic. Max life is full synthetic.

Is it too slippery. I don't know.....it's only that 1 gear. But that's rare for that to happen so soon. It's always reverse that kills these. Which is a time consuming easily fix for $300.
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  #266  
Old 02-06-2015, 01:43 PM
mohsin768 mohsin768 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torquewrench View Post
Running great. Smell that was bugging me has disappeared, maybe it was just fluid left on double-walled exhaust heat shielding. Next time I'll teflon tape the drain and flill plugs, but if you do this make sure to keep any teflon tape out of the inside of the transmission.

I used Valvoline Mercon V for the two changes I've done so far, but I think I'll try Redline D4 next time, just for kicks.

Hello sir,
I am new to this forum. I changed my auto trans fluid correctly and have replaced all the bolts with new oem ones (T40s). Now I am getting the same kind of smell you have described. I have checked almost 4 times under it by myself and by an indy shop but couldn't found any single drop or trans fluid moisture leakage.
It would be of great help if you could shed some light aftr how many miles you got rid of the smell or you did something special to counter it.
Thanks,
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  #267  
Old 04-20-2015, 09:01 AM
DEADF15H DEADF15H is online now
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Mein Auto: 2001 325i 4 door DD
Official ZF 5HP19-Step by Step Instructions & Tool List

You can pick up a digital thermometer @ Harbor Freight for less than $15.00. Temperature is an important part to get the procedure correct, as well as having the car level.

Links to videos posted on the Tool Image.

Pictured is a fairly expensive pump, you can use a $8.00 one available at any auto-parts store, but I had to put hose clamps on mine to keep the hoses from popping off. I did end up buying the Motive pump and use it for engine and tranny oil changes.

EDIT 5/28/2016 : Just completed my late ZF 2nd filter and atf exchange at 172,000. Read a few other threads on the subject. Use the genuine filter and green paper looking gasket. My first filter wasn't OEM, subpar quality compared to genuine even though purchased through BavAuto.com or ECS. Lots of posts about leaky replacement gaskets, but mine was fine. Saving $10 isn't worth it.
LOOSEN FILL PLUG FIRST (lots of people getting into trouble). I ground down a hex socket to get it to fit the tight space on my ZF.
Try the T-27 first on the pan bolts before sizing down to T-25. Clean all bolts and use medium thread locker, if not replacing with new. Order 3 or 4 spare bolts so you don't get stuck in the middle of the DIY, or replace all as recommended.
Use a torque wrench on the pan and drain. I couldn't get mine on the Fill Plug.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf ZP_5HPTransmissionInstruction.pdf (2.58 MB, 105 views)
File Type: pdf TrannyOilToolRequirements.pdf (190.4 KB, 86 views)

Last edited by DEADF15H; 05-29-2016 at 09:38 AM.
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  #268  
Old 04-20-2015, 10:10 AM
Augster Augster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEADF15H View Post
Pictured is a fairly expensive pump, you can use a $8.00 one available at any auto-parts store, but I had to put hose clamps on mine to keep the hoses from popping off. I did end up buying the Motive pump and use it for engine and tranny oil changes.
I, too, bought and used the Motive pump for my ATF replenishment, which I would use for any future transmission and differential fluid changes.

But for the casual DIY, el cheapo pumps should suffice.
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  #269  
Old 09-17-2015, 12:26 PM
redboy57 redboy57 is offline
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an excellent original post by torque wrench. Thanks to this post i had the confidence to change my auto fluid. I used Mobil LT71141 and a genuine filter.
There are just a couple of things that need updating.
First the auto sump torx bolts on mine are T27 not T25. I used a T25 to undo them and the socket is too loose so i ended up rounding off the last bolt and had to cut a slot in it to get it out.
2nd I did the change outside on my dads driveway which is not level, it runs off to one side for drainage, same as on the road. So to get my car level I had a spirit level on the roof before I started so I could check that I had it level as I jacked it up and put it on the jack stands. One side had to be jacked higher than the other to get it level.
3rd The fill plug and drain plug are on really tight. I bent my quarter inch breaker bar on the fill plug. How I got it undone is I got some shallow drive allen sockets manufactured by CR-MO and used one of them and my 3/8ths ratchet with a long tube fitted over it to give me more leverage.
Because I used a T25 to undo and do them up I also rounded 2 of them off when tightening them back up.
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  #270  
Old 09-17-2015, 12:26 PM
redboy57 redboy57 is offline
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an excellent original post by torque wrench. Thanks to this post i had the confidence to change my auto fluid. I used Mobil LT71141 and a genuine filter.
There are just a couple of things that need updating.
First the auto sump torx bolts on mine are T27 not T25. I used a T25 to undo them and the socket is too loose so i ended up rounding off the last bolt and had to cut a slot in it to get it out.
2nd I did the change outside on my dads driveway which is not level, it runs off to one side for drainage, same as on the road. So to get my car level I had a spirit level on the roof before I started so I could check that I had it level as I jacked it up and put it on the jack stands. One side had to be jacked higher than the other to get it level.
3rd The fill plug and drain plug are on really tight. I bent my quarter inch breaker bar on the fill plug. How I got it undone is I got some shallow drive allen sockets manufactured by CR-MO and used one of them and my 3/8ths ratchet with a long tube fitted over it to give me more leverage.
Because I used a T25 to undo and do them up I also rounded 2 of them off when tightening them back up.
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  #271  
Old 09-18-2015, 06:08 AM
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crazy4trains crazy4trains is offline
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Where did you buy your LT71141 fluid and if you don't mind telling us, how much did you have to pay?
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  #272  
Old 09-20-2015, 12:27 PM
redboy57 redboy57 is offline
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oil for e46 330i

i got it on the internet from opie oils, I bought 10 litres for 119. So works out at about 12 per litre. Comes in 1 litre bottles and postage is free for orders over about 40 I think.
Order it one day comes the next.
I also changed the diff oil at the same time but ordered the diff oil separately from Opie oils again. Came next day again.
I only used 5 litres in the oil change and never bothered with a flush but I got the extra oil there if I want to do it. The only problems I encountered is that the torx bolts are T27 not T25, and that the fill and drain plugs are on very tight.
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  #273  
Old 09-22-2015, 05:31 PM
oooeemrlee oooeemrlee is offline
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Dexron VI is now the approved spec fluid

Everyone should be aware that all the special fluid hassle has been alleviated with the adoption of the Dexron VI standard for all BMW Automatic transmissions. This is retroactive to all earlier Auto transmissions.

Valvoline Maxlife is one example of this spec fluid, there are many.
BMW approvals are on the bottle.

BMW folks seem to like:

Maxlife
Valvoline Full Synthetic Dex VI
Mobile 1 Dex VI
Redline Dex VI or D4 ATF if your application uses it (RL is arguably the best)
Amsoil
Castrol (Import multi-vehicle I think)
Pentosin
Fuchs
Eurobrands (Motul, Ravenol, Esso, Total, etc)

And ... Genuine BMW Dex VI is now reasonably priced at around $11/quart!!!

I do Maxlife, drain and fill at 30K and drain with filter (genuine BMW or Filtran) at 60K. I live in the desert, so severe service and shortened maintenance intervals are called for. And for under $5 quart, it's just changing more oil. My transmission has 261,000 original miles. ZF 5HP30 in a 740i.

ZF recommends 60K fluid/filter changes FOR NORMAL SERVICE. Think about it.
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  #274  
Old 03-24-2016, 07:37 AM
DEADF15H DEADF15H is online now
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Great Info.. As I look at multiple bottles of the expensive ZF brand on my shelf
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  #275  
Old 05-29-2016, 10:19 AM
DEADF15H DEADF15H is online now
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Mein Auto: 2001 325i 4 door DD
2nd Filter & Fluid change

Just completed my 2nd filter and fluid change.
History:
04/2006: original tranny replaced by dealer @ 92,000 miles. Guess the Lifetime Fluid BS came back to bite them on the butt on this one. This was found through CarFax and verified with ZF after emailing them the serial number from the tranny, with an inquiry about suggested mileage to change. (40,000-60,000 mi) no matter how many currently on the transmission.

06/2014: 140,XXX miles. My first fuel and filter change(50,000 on tranny) Fluid was dark and stinky, had to throw out the clothes when complete. The Filter was in same condition. Magnets on pan were completely covered in metal particles, no large shards, just fuzzy looking. I used and ECS kit for the change, included a non OEM filter, which didn't look to be as high a quality as the OEM, I pulled. Green paper gasket looked OEM. Change was successful, I changed as a preventative maintenance Using D4 Fluid.

06/2016 172,XXX 2nd Filter and Fluid change. Was planning on doing it within a couple of thousand miles after my first, but too many "have to do this first" issues arised over the 24 months.
Used ZF lifetime fluid this go around and OEM filter and gasket. Time bandits were getting the car level (Use the lip of tranny where the pan attaches, not the door seal or roof) and scrapping the old gasket (used interior molding plastic prys from Harbor Freight)without marring the mating surface. This time the fluid didn't stink to high heaven. Fuzz on the magnets was there, but minimal.

NOTE: For easier access to the Fill bolt, I ground down a 8mm hex socket that fit my torque wrench. It's pictured beside a normal length 7mm hex for comparison.There's not a lot of room up there and the rubber fuel line gets in the way occasionally. I made a note to file 4 or 5 notches on the outside of the socket to make it easier to grip when hand tightening the plug with the socket, as the fluid makes it extremely slippery. On refill the tranny is supposed to be between 30 and 50C, so the faster you can get that plug in and out, the better.
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Last edited by DEADF15H; 05-29-2016 at 10:24 AM.
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