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Do-It-Yourself H.Q.
Share your DIY projects or ask questions about how to fix something on your own. Help fellow Bimmerfest members improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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  #126  
Old 09-05-2008, 12:34 PM
bmwm3coupe bmwm3coupe is offline
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There is no need to replace the OEM bolts with anything stronger. I have done the service twice now - the bolts still have "plenty" life in them - remember that the torque on them is fairly low.

I have over 10K on MaxLife now. I would use the one the shows on the label that it is compatible with the fluid for your tranny.
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  #127  
Old 09-10-2008, 05:50 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
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Apparently Valvoline Mercon V is no longer recommended equivalent to the LT71141. Valvoline took out the LT71141 equivalent designation out of the Mercon V container label when they went with multi-lingual labeling, and the designation is also missing when Mercon V went full synthetic. I received an email response from them that I should use MaxLife ATF and the MaxLife ATF is also full synthetic. Unlike the Mercon V that show on the bottle it is full synthetic, I do see that on the MaxLife bottle nor does it show on their web site. Someone please correct me if you have information to say otherwise.
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  #128  
Old 09-17-2008, 01:11 PM
Numba1goalie Numba1goalie is offline
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Bump for an awesome thread!
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  #129  
Old 09-19-2008, 06:38 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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OK, posted in a new thread by mistake. I'll be doing the ATF change tomorrow and I'd greatly appreciate your help. Spent 30 minutes in front of the rack with ATFs after getting advice from the beginning of this thread and here is what I found: Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF. Will this work for my auto tranny?

I have that green label on the pan bottom. Can't read what's on it, but it's green.

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  #130  
Old 09-20-2008, 08:31 AM
Torquewrench Torquewrench is offline
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The Castrol bottle says it should work. I think I mentioned Castrol as an option in my original post, but hadn't heard of anyone using it at that time. Give it a try and report your results.
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  #131  
Old 09-20-2008, 10:19 AM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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Now I'm totally confused as the designation number LA2634 and LT71141 DO NOT match the GM transmission chart you had posted for E46 - they are only good for some other models (coded black and blue on the chart). For E46 they CLEARLY specify fluid number 7045 (coded yellow).

What to do???


EDIT: Found out Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is supposed to be compatible with the Texaco 7045E ATF which is recommended for most E46s with GM trannys.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...hetic_ATF.aspx

Last edited by yogi799; 10-04-2008 at 08:10 PM. Reason: new info discovered
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  #132  
Old 09-20-2008, 11:32 AM
Torquewrench Torquewrench is offline
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Sorry, didn't check the model of your car. For a 328i with the GM5 (A5S 360R) transmission you should use the Texaco 7045 or 7045E or something compatible. The Castrol doesn't claim compatibility so I would keep looking for something that does. Can anyone else on the thread provide any suggestions on compatible fluids?
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  #133  
Old 09-20-2008, 06:42 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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Well, here is what I did today... After looking at this chart (http://www.taligentx.com/passat/main...ge/BMW_ATF.pdf) and getting completely confused as to what ATF to use for the '99 E46 328i and whether I could use any of the popular (read: inexpensive) ATFs, I had called the dealer one last time to get some answers. He asked for my VIN and told me that his info shows that TWO ATFs will work for my tranny: the 7045 stuff or a Regular Dextron. Now, the tricky part: He said I have to look at the label on the pan to know for sure which one to use - because I HAVE TO use the same one that was used to fill my tranny by the manufacturer - and apparently the manufacturer back then in 1999 could have put either ATF into my tranny. According to him, if they used Dextron, I can use Dextron, if they used the 7045 stuff, I have to use that one as well. I told him my green label was damaged and completely unreadable and to that he said, there is no way to tell what was used on my E46, but I have to use the same one. He said absolutely no mixing, so if I serviced my car with them, they'd probably recommend complete flush. So interestingly, according to this dude, both ATFs will work fine with this tranny, as long as you don't mix them (which is true, according to several sources). Oh, by the way, the 7045 stuff is $35/litre...

I have decided to take my chances and drop the pan, hoping enough ATF will come out to consider this procedure non-mixing. And I'll do a drain and refill again next week to make sure it is mostly unmixed.

So when I started the job, everything went fine; I dropped the pan, took it out and amazingly was able to decipher the damaged label (after moistening it with some ATF LOL). And here, surprise.... It totally contradicts this chart (http://www.taligentx.com/passat/main...ge/BMW_ATF.pdf) as my ATF according to the label is: part # 83220002121, which is NOT 7045 stuff as per the chart. Actually, this number is nowhere to be found on this chart so I'm starting to question the validity thereof. So, I happily filled up with Valvoline Max Life and will try to do a drain/refill again soon.

As to my experience with the pan drop 'operation', there were couple nervous moments.... All went great until the reinstall of the pan. I broke one of the bolts with a stupid torque wrench which apparently didn't work (unless I didn't know how to use it). I hope ATF will not be leaking because of this one bolt. Second b*itch was the refill of the ATF. I couldn't jack the car up high enough to get the 5-litre bottle underneath, so I did it with the jug tilted and soon enough my ATF started dripping all over the damn place... with me stuck underneath and no easy way to get out LOL. Made a huge mess and was able to put almost nothing in. Then, I got smarter... Used a long clear tube as the extension and plugged one end into my pump and the other comfortably deep into the pan. Then I was able to pump easily with no spileage untill overfill. Only about 1.5 litres went in as only the front of my car was jacked up and the fill opening is towards the rear so naturally it started spilling sooner. Tomorrow, I will try to jack up the rear high enough to make a good angle - hoping lots more ATF will go in.

Here is my label. Geees, these warning pissed me off... They made me feel like I'm doing all this stupid work only to damage my car...


Last edited by yogi799; 09-20-2008 at 06:54 PM.
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  #134  
Old 09-21-2008, 06:55 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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Edit to the post above. The chart seemed to be printed in 06/2001 so probably the part # has changed since they printed my green label at the end of 1998.

I've done some more research into the 7045 ATF and from all sources, it just seems to be a Dexron III Synthetic fluid. So, today I have mixed it with non-synthetic one, which according to some sources is really bad, and according to some others it's ok... (making it a synthetic blend). Apparently almost all Synthetic ATF are compatible with Texaco 7045 ATF (for example Mobil 1 Syntetic: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...hetic_ATF.aspx). So, i'll probably do a drain and refill again next week and put Mobil 1 Synth. in ($9/liter).

Last edited by yogi799; 09-21-2008 at 09:06 PM.
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  #135  
Old 09-21-2008, 07:18 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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OK, so I finished the job today. I finally learned how to do this, so the ATF refill was a piece of cake. I can offer some useful advice, as some of us have seemed to struggle the most with this part.

Anyhow, to make the long story short, to make the refill worry-free and s******free, I recommend jacking up ONLY the rear of the car, just like you see in the pic. On my 328i E46, the refill plug is near the rear of the body, so lifting the rear will allow your pumped fluid to gather in the front of the transmission pan and therefore allow you to fill a proper amount with almost no dripping at all. Then, if you want, level the car by jacking up the front and open up the refill plug to make sure you have the proper amount. Anyhow, this is probably the easiest way to do this.

Yesterday, I have dropped the pan/changed the filter, which resulted in drainage of 6 liters (quart is almost a liter). Today, I pumped in 4 liters of Valvoline Max Life, then started the car, run through the gears several time. Went down, opened up the refill plug, and dirty fluid started coming out. So I drained the pan again, and it was really dirty (even despite 4 liters of fresh ATF). 1.5 liters came out (only, because only the rear of the car was jacked up). Refilled 2.5 more liters of fresh ATF, started the car, ran through gears again, did the drain. 1.5 more liters came out (still pretty dark unfortunately). Then put remaining 3.5 liters in with ease and hardly any spileage. All in all, I have drained ~9 liters (6 + 3) and refillled almost two jugs of 5 liter Valvoline Max Life (10 liters). So, I should be roughly +1 liter (give and take, I had some spileage the first day, too).

Now, I just pray the Valvoline mixed with scary sounding fluid part #83220002121 won't cause my tranny to explode.... That why I did those two extra drain/refills. Next weeks, I'll drain 6 liters again, first by jacking up the front of the car, so entire pan comes out and refill by jacking up the rear. That should do it. My car has 110k miles by the way... hope that change was not too late. First driving impression - shifts as smooth as hell! It did shif well before too, but I almost think it's better now (could be wishful thinking though...)

'99 328i E46 tranny after pan drop:



Easiest way to do a refill...


Last edited by yogi799; 10-04-2008 at 08:06 PM.
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  #136  
Old 01-22-2009, 12:48 PM
almoula almoula is offline
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Thanks for the great write up, but I am stuck. It sees that the previous owner stripped part of the 8 mm hex fill bolt and I can't seem to be able to insert my 8 mm all the way so I can open it and if that's the case then I will cease work until the fill plug is open. I have 120,000 on my 2001 330i with the same exact transmission as mentioned on the write up. Just to let you know I can't drill anything because of the tight space. Can anyone help please? I am really frustrated and I am thinking that if I don't change the oil, the reverse gear or something will stop working. If someone can tell me if I open the drain plug and the pan can I see the drain plug from the inside of the transmission and then just buy a new plug. Any help is much appreciated.

Last edited by almoula; 01-25-2009 at 09:24 AM.
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  #137  
Old 01-22-2009, 01:16 PM
shroomer shroomer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by almoula View Post
Thanks for the great write up, but I am stuck. It sees that the previous owner stripped part of the 8 mm hex fill bolt and I can't seem to be able to insert my 8 mm all the way so I can open it and if thatís the case then I will cease work until the fill plug is open. I have 120,000 on my 2001 330i with the same exact transmission as mentioned on the write up. Just to let you know I can't drill anything because of the tight space. Can anyone help please? I am really frustrated and I am thinking that if I donít change the oil, the reverse gear or something with stop working. If someone can tell me if I open the drain plug and the pan can I see the drain plug from the inside of the transmission and then just buy a new plug. Any help is much appreciated.
From what I remember, the trannys with the reverse issue were the 1999 and 2000 E46s. I hope that will put you at ease...somewhat.

If you really really want to go through with this, there is another bolt at the top of the tranny, for a total of 3. I think you can fill the tranny through this bolt. The problem is that you won't be able to get an accurate fill because it won't be able to trickle out of the correct fill plug. But if you measure exactly what you drain out and put exactly that much in, you'll be ok. If you do that, you shouldn't change the filter, because you don't know how much oil is trapped in the filter.
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  #138  
Old 01-22-2009, 07:57 PM
almoula almoula is offline
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Thanks for the quick reply. I was just able to purchase an 8mm hex wrench, for some reason its worked better but I had to really injure myself to get it to open. Finally I did get to open using the wrench not the socket. You see the socket dos not have groves at the start of it but the hex wrench dos. so it works, i am happy and magnets were really filthy. i changed everything accordingly and I am just about to put the pan back and found that if i use a little super glue just to attach the gasket to the pan instead of fiddling with it at the time of pitting the pan back and having the gasket fall while you are trying to screw it. I am a happy as hell and yes the tranyy issue you explained about the "trannys with the reverse issue were the 1999 and 2000 E46s" did put me at great ease.

I have been fixing my car since i purchase it from my uncle and spend three thousand dollars in parts so far and this is just the last part. Next i am doing a diffrentional oil and using the 90w140 for the non slip. Thanks to you shroomer and to all of those who post. YOU HAVE SAVED ME NO LESS THAN 5000 and i am grateful.
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  #139  
Old 01-25-2009, 09:40 AM
almoula almoula is offline
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I just finished the transmission and filled it correctly and change the fill bolt. FYI, if the fill bolt is stripped in the hex part, then after the opening of the transmission pan you can see it from inside of the transmission and yes you can drill it from the inside of transmission so as to open and then go to BMW and buy a new one for 19.99.

After changing the oil and refilling about 6.5 L of Esso oil. I Noticed that when I was doing the final filling procedure that the fluid that trickled is still black and not the clear esso I put in. maybe it got mixed with the torque converter or the fluid that was left but I m going to only do a flush in about 30,000 miles.

Last edited by almoula; 01-27-2009 at 06:59 PM.
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  #140  
Old 01-30-2009, 11:44 AM
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m5james m5james is offline
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For the record, I've changed the fluid in 3 7's now, and I used Castrol IMPORT fluid. which is Esso compatible. I don't remember the exact Esso number, but i'm assuming its the same Esso fluid used in all of these Esso filled transmissions.
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  #141  
Old 02-14-2009, 10:34 PM
blurin03 blurin03 is offline
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Update on fluid change in Dec. 2007 now with about 14k miles, 94k total:
Still running great, (knock on wood).

I used Valvoline MaxLife in my ZF.
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  #142  
Old 02-15-2009, 09:42 AM
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milobloom242 milobloom242 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blurin03 View Post
Update on fluid change in Dec. 2007 now with about 14k miles, 94k total:
Still running great, (knock on wood).

I used Valvoline MaxLife in my ZF.
It's good for ZF too? Didn't know that. I used it in my GM step at first, then switched to Redline D4 which also seems to work in both.
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  #143  
Old 02-28-2009, 01:40 AM
adaseb adaseb is offline
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I finally performed this job on my E46 with the ZF tranny. I used Redline D4 ATF for this job which wasn't smart because the fluid is not cheap $10/quart.

Anyways so last week I had a fun scary time jacking the entire car up on 4 jack stands. At first I was going to use Rhino Ramps but then I realized that my car is RWD so it might roll back down when I jack up the rear using the jack. So I decided to put all 4 corners on jack stands. At first I did the rear driver side and then front driver side, so far so good then came to do the other side. As I was jacking up the rear passenger side I was praying for the car not to slip sideways and crush me. Lucky it didn't however the whole process to get the whole car on jack stands seems unsafe to me.

Anyways so at first I took out the drain plug and spilled about a quart or so of fluid all on my garage floor. Then took out the drain bolt and even more fluid came out. Then took out all the 22 screws and the pan came off nicely. The magnets were exactly like the ones pictured above.

So all was well cleaned the pan and the magnets and used a new gasket with some "form a gasket" sealant to hold the pan gasket in place while I screw all the 22 screws back onto the transmission. I tried doing this in a star pattern and to my laziness I didn't use a torque wrench as I was planning on dropping the pan again in 1 month. So after all the screws were tight, I checked again TWICE if they were tight and they all were very tight. More on why I used the term "tight".

So at first I managed to get 6 quarts inside after turning the car off and on and leaving it in neutral. Then finally I drained the fluid again and this time only 4 quarts came out. So again I filled in the proper matter. Filled till overflow. Start car go through gears, leave in neutral and fill again. Then when overfill start car, make the fluid hot 30-50 and then add until overflows. All was good. Put all the bolts and fill plug on tight and called it a job well done.

So fast forward to 500 miles (1 week) later. I decide to again drain 4 quarts and re-fill 4 quarts without changing the filter/gasket. To my surprise I see some leakage. Then I decide to see if any of the bolts weren't "tight" and guess what? None of them were "tight" they all turned about quart to half a revolution. I drained slightly over 3 quarts fluid and added slightly over 4 quart fluid. So in that one week I must of leaked close to a quart of ATF. So I decided to check the pan daily for leakage until I drop the pan/filter/gasket in a couple weeks for a final job.

So after all that I have a couple questions.

First of all what can I do to prevent this leakage? I will use a torque wrench for sure however I doubt that the screws will stay tight. Should I use a special locking washer or just use some threadlocker compound?

Whats a safe way to put the car on 4 jack stands without s*itting bricks while doing it? I was thinking of using the Rhino ramps on the rear wheels and then using the jack and jack stands on the front wheels. This method seems faster and safer.

Thanks for reading and good luck to everyone that performs this job which requires a lot of care and patience.
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  #144  
Old 02-28-2009, 09:45 AM
shroomer shroomer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adaseb View Post
I finally performed this job on my E46 with the ZF tranny. I used Redline D4 ATF for this job which wasn't smart because the fluid is not cheap $10/quart.

Anyways so last week I had a fun scary time jacking the entire car up on 4 jack stands. At first I was going to use Rhino Ramps but then I realized that my car is RWD so it might roll back down when I jack up the rear using the jack. So I decided to put all 4 corners on jack stands. At first I did the rear driver side and then front driver side, so far so good then came to do the other side. As I was jacking up the rear passenger side I was praying for the car not to slip sideways and crush me. Lucky it didn't however the whole process to get the whole car on jack stands seems unsafe to me.

Anyways so at first I took out the drain plug and spilled about a quart or so of fluid all on my garage floor. Then took out the drain bolt and even more fluid came out. Then took out all the 22 screws and the pan came off nicely. The magnets were exactly like the ones pictured above.

So all was well cleaned the pan and the magnets and used a new gasket with some "form a gasket" sealant to hold the pan gasket in place while I screw all the 22 screws back onto the transmission. I tried doing this in a star pattern and to my laziness I didn't use a torque wrench as I was planning on dropping the pan again in 1 month. So after all the screws were tight, I checked again TWICE if they were tight and they all were very tight. More on why I used the term "tight".

So at first I managed to get 6 quarts inside after turning the car off and on and leaving it in neutral. Then finally I drained the fluid again and this time only 4 quarts came out. So again I filled in the proper matter. Filled till overflow. Start car go through gears, leave in neutral and fill again. Then when overfill start car, make the fluid hot 30-50 and then add until overflows. All was good. Put all the bolts and fill plug on tight and called it a job well done.

So fast forward to 500 miles (1 week) later. I decide to again drain 4 quarts and re-fill 4 quarts without changing the filter/gasket. To my surprise I see some leakage. Then I decide to see if any of the bolts weren't "tight" and guess what? None of them were "tight" they all turned about quart to half a revolution. I drained slightly over 3 quarts fluid and added slightly over 4 quart fluid. So in that one week I must of leaked close to a quart of ATF. So I decided to check the pan daily for leakage until I drop the pan/filter/gasket in a couple weeks for a final job.

So after all that I have a couple questions.

First of all what can I do to prevent this leakage? I will use a torque wrench for sure however I doubt that the screws will stay tight. Should I use a special locking washer or just use some threadlocker compound?

Whats a safe way to put the car on 4 jack stands without s*itting bricks while doing it? I was thinking of using the Rhino ramps on the rear wheels and then using the jack and jack stands on the front wheels. This method seems faster and safer.

Thanks for reading and good luck to everyone that performs this job which requires a lot of care and patience.
I used blue loctite on my bolts, and a torquewrench. All is well.
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  #145  
Old 02-28-2009, 04:38 PM
adaseb adaseb is offline
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I checked today again ( a day later) and again it started to leak.

So I finally replaced every screw with a threadlocker and used a torque wrench this time.

Hopefully the damn leak will stop.
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  #146  
Old 02-28-2009, 10:25 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adaseb View Post
I checked today again ( a day later) and again it started to leak.

So I finally replaced every screw with a threadlocker and used a torque wrench this time.

Hopefully the damn leak will stop.

Did you reuse the old paper gasket?

Unless the the gasket is made from neoprene rubber of some sort, you will need to replace the gasket. Once a paper gasket leaks, tightening the screws only buys you a short time until it leaks again.

Use brake cleaner to clean the oil pan screw threads and the female threads of the transmission block. Wait for it to dry or air spary it dry. Make sure your contact surfaces (pan and block) are dry and clean prior to laying the gasket. Inspect the integrity of the gasket. Now you are ready to install the oil pan. Do a finger tight cross pattern first to get the pan into position. Do another half turn to a full turn or so, and another criss cross pattern for your final torque. Once you filled the pan with oil, do not go back and mess with the screws again.
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  #147  
Old 03-02-2009, 12:57 AM
adaseb adaseb is offline
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Originally Posted by Lbert View Post
Did you reuse the old paper gasket?

Unless the the gasket is made from neoprene rubber of some sort, you will need to replace the gasket. Once a paper gasket leaks, tightening the screws only buys you a short time until it leaks again.

Use brake cleaner to clean the oil pan screw threads and the female threads of the transmission block. Wait for it to dry or air spary it dry. Make sure your contact surfaces (pan and block) are dry and clean prior to laying the gasket. Inspect the integrity of the gasket. Now you are ready to install the oil pan. Do a finger tight cross pattern first to get the pan into position. Do another half turn to a full turn or so, and another criss cross pattern for your final torque. Once you filled the pan with oil, do not go back and mess with the screws again.
I didn't re-use the gasket I installed a new one.

I checked again today because yesterday I torqued it correctly and used loctite and it seems its leaking very slowly in one spot. Its hard to tell if its leaking from the gasket or from the screw hole.
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  #148  
Old 03-05-2009, 11:46 AM
adaseb adaseb is offline
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I noticed that with the Redline D4 fluid some of the shifts when cold are rough. When the car is fully warmed up they seem to function perfectly. Anyone else nothing this trend?
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  #149  
Old 03-07-2009, 10:23 AM
adaseb adaseb is offline
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I would like to add that after I put on loctite and torqured to the proper spec the leak was finally gone.
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  #150  
Old 04-08-2009, 11:00 PM
mugsy77 mugsy77 is offline
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Mein Auto: 01 330ci vert
I just flushed out my 5HP19 ATF at 91k miles, replaced gasket, and filter, and put in Mercon V ATF. I have about 100 miles or so using Mercon V and everything seems fine.

I see that the current recommendation is MaxLife ATF and have a question. Is this something I should put in my tranny asap? If so, then my next question is:

Since I am guessing I have about 1/3 of my old (Esso 71141) fluid in there (due to torque converter) and want to put MaxLife ATF in it. What are your thoughts on me flushing out the 1/3 Esso and 2/3 Mercon V and put in MaxLife ATF? Sounds like a mad mix to me and I want to make sure I don't dig a hole. Thanks!!!

Oh, and amazon.com has a case of MaxLife ATF for $45 and free shipping if you have their Prime membership.

Last edited by mugsy77; 05-04-2009 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Revised
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