01+ Broken Headlight Adjuster Fix (E39)

Originally Posted by bluebee

- It's a 2002 & the headlights are pointing mostly downward very stably.
- I turn the driver's side fittings and nothing moves whatsoever (as measured by pointing to a garage door at night)
- However, NOTHING bounces on the road ... it points consistently downward without bouncing.
- Strangely, if I grasp the driver's side bulb, and wiggle, both bulbs wiggle without any friction whatsoever ...
- On the other hand, if I wiggle the passenger side bulbs, they move but with muuuuch more friction holding them together

I have the very same scenario on my car, with the following caveats: The light being cast on the road appears to indicate that the driver side light needs to be aimed higher, I have not tried to adjust the passenger side light, and I do not have any broken tabs.

15, your adjusters are toast as well. Get the AL adjusters from Mark and fix them.

There are two 'tough' parts to fixing these yourself:

(1) Separating the lens from the body. Go slowly with a screwdriver and pry all around. Don't pry in one spot only or you will break some plastic. You don't have to rush. If your lights were glued with the stuff that weakens when warm, you will eventually get them apart. You will know this pretty quickly.

(2) Getting the plastic broken 'ball' out of the small plastic holder. It just takes some time to work it out and you'll probably jab yourself with the screwdriver a couple of times but keep at it...it will come flying out of there eventually.

Thanks 99, I've exchanged messages with Mark. Based on his quote and what I've read, I will most likely have him do the work as soon as I get my SES light resolved. My wife already forbade me to bake the Brembo blanks for my E30, so I can only imagine the reaction for a part that's plastic...

Originally Posted by Ågent99

(7) Adjust vertical 2" to the right of vertical line.

Let's start with what you wrote, Ågent99, and improve it further.

Here's my (slight) edit of Ågent99's procedure (hopefully improving a bit):
(0) Grab two 6mm allen wrenches (or allen sockets) so you can turn both adjusters at the same time.

(1) Tires inflated properly, tank 1/2 full, typical driver in seat.

(2) At night, park about a foot from a wall at least 5' high (with 35' of drivable level surface abutting the wall).

(3) Mark a horizontal line with tape on the wall at the headlight midpoint.

(4) Mark a vertical line with tape on the wall at the vehicle midpoint to make a + sign for left/right light.

(5) Back up the vehicle until the headlights are 25 feet from the cross-marked wall.
(6) Switch headlights on
Note: Do we turn on the low beams or the high beams? (I presume high beams)

(7) Adjust the bright:dark horizontal cut-off-point 2" below the horizontal tape.
Note: We need to improve this by stating WHICH ADJUSTER(s) to turn and which DIRECTION to turn to go up or down!

(8) Adjust the vertical 2" to the right of vertical line.
I'm confused. What do we use as the reference spot of light (especially with both high and low beams on)?
And which adjusters do we twist? And in what direction to go left or right?

Some questions I have to complete this headlight-adjustment DIY:
Q1: Why does the BMW doc above say only up/down motion is adjustable?
Q2: Which ADJUSTERS and DIRECTION do you turn for up/down motion?
Q3: If the headlights CAN be adjusted side-to-side, which ADJUSTERS and which DIRECTION to turn to move them right or left?
Q4: Ågent99 ... where did you get the 2" side-to-side dimension?
Q5: I'm confused about the side-to-side reference point? What is it? The bright spot for each lens?
Q6: Do we do all this with the high beams, or the low beams, or both?

Originally Posted by Ågent99

The horizontal and vertical adjustments are absolutely possible on my Xenons (2001 530i).

I have a 2002 525i with H7 but all the other Hella niceties (angel eye halos). I can't tell (probably due to broken adjusters) whether side-to-side movement is possible. Can others let us know if they can adjust side-to-side because the BMW doc above says otherwise.

Originally Posted by agent15

I have not tried to adjust the passenger side light,

You can adjust the SIDE lights???

Where's the side-light adjuster located?

My drivers side light seems like it may have an adjuster issue. I have a new passenger light and if you wiggle the entire Xexon rubber boot / light it feels pretty solid, but on the drivers side you do the same thing and the entire assembly / boot / bulb move up and down. I think the lazy adjuster fix I read here was a few strategic tie wraps on the headlight wires to "hold" things in place... Did anyone post which direction to turn the adjuster screw? Clockwise for up, counter-clockwise for down?

Originally Posted by bluebee

You can adjust the SIDE lights???

Where's the side-light adjuster located?

I have not tried to adjust the headlight on the passenger side of the car. Better?

Originally Posted by bluebee

Let's start with what you wrote, Ågent99, and improve it further.

Here's my (slight) edit of Ågent99's procedure (hopefully improving a bit):
(0) Grab two 6mm allen wrenches (or allen sockets) so you can turn both adjusters at the same time.

(1) Tires inflated properly, tank 1/2 full, typical driver in seat.

(2) At night, park about a foot from a wall at least 5' high (with 35' of drivable level surface abutting the wall).

(3) Mark a horizontal line with tape on the wall at the headlight midpoint.

(4) Mark a vertical line with tape on the wall to make a + sign for left/right light's center point. This is your reference.

(5) Back up the vehicle until the headlights are 25 feet from the cross-marked wall.
(6) Switch headlights on
Note: Do we turn on the low beams or the high beams? (I presume high beams)

Do the low beams...they both adjust the same since they are in the same lens housing. They are NOT independent of each other.

Originally Posted by bluebee

(7) Adjust the bright:dark horizontal cut-off-point 2" below the horizontal tape.
Note: We need to improve this by stating WHICH ADJUSTER(s) to turn and which DIRECTION to turn to go up or down!

The adjuster closest to the fender does lateral movement and the adjuster closest to the radiator does vertical movement.

Originally Posted by bluebee

(8) Adjust the vertical 2" to the right of vertical line.
I'm confused. What do we use as the reference spot of light (especially with both high and low beams on)?
And which adjusters do we twist? And in what direction to go left or right?

Your tape on the wall is the reference. There should be one long horizontal line of tape like this:
----------------------------------------

Then there should be two vertical lines of tape within the horizontal line like this:
--+---------------------------------+--

I made some verbage changes to (4) above. Helps?

You want your lights brightest points to be 2" below that horizontal reference tape and you want both the left and right lights to be 2" to the right of the vertical reference tape:
--+----------------------------------+--
-----*----------------------------------*
The asterisks above denote the final positions of the brightest points of your headlights after adjustments (ignore the hyphens with the asterisks...they were necessary for proper placement of the asterisks)

Originally Posted by bluebee

Some questions I have to complete this headlight-adjustment DIY:
Q1: Why does the BMW doc above say only up/down motion is adjustable?
Q2: Which ADJUSTERS and DIRECTION do you turn for up/down motion?
Q3: If the headlights CAN be adjusted side-to-side, which ADJUSTERS and which DIRECTION to turn to move them right or left?
Q4: Ågent99 ... where did you get the 2" side-to-side dimension?
Q5: I'm confused about the side-to-side reference point? What is it? The bright spot for each lens?
Q6: Do we do all this with the high beams, or the low beams, or both?

Originally Posted by bluebee

I have a 2002 525i with H7 but all the other Hella niceties (angel eye halos). I can't tell (probably due to broken adjusters) whether side-to-side movement is possible. Can others let us know if they can adjust side-to-side because the BMW doc above says otherwise.

Q1: No clue...not sure where you got your info. My Bentley manual calls out lateral and vertical adjustments. I also DID lateral and vertical adjustments. Proof enough for me.
Q2: answered
Q3: answered
Q4: found it online
Q5: answered
Q6: answered

**************************************

Okay, after all that I'm taking my car to my indy (GMS in Sunnyvale) and they are going to reset my airbag warning light and adjust my lights for me.

Once adjusted, I'll shine my lights on my garage door and take some notes/measurements/pics for future reference.

Originally Posted by bluebee

You can adjust the SIDE lights???

Where's the side-light adjuster located?

That is because the adjuster is likely busted.

Originally Posted by agent15

Thanks 99, I've exchanged messages with Mark. Based on his quote and what I've read, I will most likely have him do the work as soon as I get my SES light resolved. My wife already forbade me to bake the Brembo blanks for my E30, so I can only imagine the reaction for a part that's plastic...

I just announced that we would be having Xenons for lunch.

Originally Posted by Ågent99;5520011[/B

Okay, after all that I'm taking my car to my indy (GMS in Sunnyvale) and they are going to reset my airbag warning light and adjust my lights for me.[/COLOR]

Once adjusted, I'll shine my lights on my garage door and take some notes/measurements/pics for future reference.

My .02... the only issue with giving an indy or even a bmw dealer the job is they will most likely just crank on the adjusters; we all know they are brittle, if nobody has messed with yours, they are likely bound up due to 8 years + of not moving = broken when the tech simply puts torque on them. I would think some penetrating lubricant applied for a few weeks (few drops) and then confirming they do adjust would be the way to go, then bring to the indy showing him that they adjust and not to break them!... unless of course you can move the entire rubber boot / light bulb assembly like my drivers side (suggesting it is totally disconnected from the adjusters), then it is a zip tie, oven or new (let me know if you find an indy that is willing to take a light apart!).

Originally Posted by Ågent99

I just announced that we would be having Xenons for lunch.

Haha

Originally Posted by Ågent99

Do the low beams...

Hi Ågent99,

What would we improve on this latest combined update?

(0) Find a wall at least 4' high abutting about 35' of level drivable ground

(1) Keep handy a flashlight and one, or better yet, two 6mm allen wrenches (remember, it's dark)

(2) Inflate tires properly, tank 1/2 full, typical driver in seat.

(3) At night, park just close enough to the wall to fit in between as you string the tape.

(4) Mark a 10' horizontal line with tape on the wall at the headlight midpoint; the result should look something like this:
----------------------------------------

(5) At each headlight centerpoint, mark a vertical line with tape on the wall to make a plus sign (one for each headlight center point); the result should now look something like this:
--+---------------------------------+--

(6) Back the vehicle until the headlights are 25 feet from the wall and perpendicular to the wall.
(7) Switch the low beam on (both high & low adjust together for each headlight).
(8) Chant "Lateral adjusters handle lateral movement; medial adjusters perform vertical movement", three or four times (or until at least the lateral:lateral part sinks in).

(9) With the 6mm allen wrench, adjust both headlight's inside (medial) adjusters such that the brightest area is about 2" below the horizontal reference tape.
(10) Then, with the 6mm allen wrench, adjust each headlight's outside (lateral) adjusters such that the bright spot is also about 2" to the right of the vertical reference tape (i.e., the plus sign) for each side respectively.
(11) As a doublecheck, switch on the high beams (the respective alignment should remain the same).
(12) The result should look something like this:
--+----------------------------------+--
-----*----------------------------------*

The asterisks above denote the final positions of the brightest points of your headlights after adjustments (ignore the hyphens with the asterisks...they were necessary for proper placement of the asterisks)

Originally Posted by Hooray!

My .02... the only issue with giving an indy or even a bmw dealer the job is they will most likely just crank on the adjusters; we all know they are brittle, if nobody has messed with yours, they are likely bound up due to 8 years + of not moving = broken when the tech simply puts torque on them. I would think some penetrating lubricant applied for a few weeks (few drops) and then confirming they do adjust would be the way to go, then bring to the indy showing him that they adjust and not to break them!... unless of course you can move the entire rubber boot / light bulb assembly like my drivers side (suggesting it is totally disconnected from the adjusters), then it is a zip tie, oven or new (let me know if you find an indy that is willing to take a light apart!).

I guess you missed the posts where I mentioned having just replaced the adjusters in both lights with aluminum ones. This is the main reason for having the indy adjust them for me...they are all setup and can do it in 5 minutes for a nominal fee (also having them reset the airbag warning light).

Originally Posted by bluebee

Hi Ågent99,

What would we improve on this latest combined update?

(0) Find a wall at least 4' high abutting about 35' of level drivable ground

(1) Keep handy a flashlight and one, or better yet, two 6mm allen wrenches (remember, it's dark)

(2) Inflate tires properly, tank 1/2 full, typical driver in seat.

(3) At night, park just close enough to the wall to fit in between as you string the tape.

(4) Mark a 10' horizontal line with tape on the wall at the headlight midpoint; the result should look something like this:
----------------------------------------

(5) At each headlight centerpoint, mark a vertical line with tape on the wall to make a plus sign (one for each headlight center point); the result should now look something like this:
--+---------------------------------+--

(6) Back the vehicle until the headlights are 25 feet from the wall and perpendicular to the wall.
(7) Switch the low beam on (both high & low adjust together for each headlight).
(8) Chant "Lateral adjusters handle lateral movement; medial adjusters perform vertical movement", three or four times (or until at least the lateral:lateral part sinks in).

(9) With the 6mm allen wrench, adjust both headlight's inside (medial) adjusters such that the brightest area is about 2" below the horizontal reference tape.
(10) Then, with the 6mm allen wrench, adjust each headlight's outside (lateral) adjusters such that the bright spot is also about 2" to the right of the vertical reference tape (i.e., the plus sign) for each side respectively.
(11) As a doublecheck, switch on the high beams (the respective alignment should remain the same).
(12) The result should look something like this:
--+----------------------------------+--
-----*----------------------------------*

The asterisks above denote the final positions of the brightest points of your headlights after adjustments (ignore the hyphens with the asterisks...they were necessary for proper placement of the asterisks)

Looks good to me, blue!

Now when are we redoing your headlight's busted adjusters?!

Originally Posted by Ågent99

Looks good to me ... Now when are we redoing your headlight's busted adjusters?!

I need to figure out what to buy first, either new headlights or just the adjusters.

Buying the headlights is what I'm leaning toward because mine look like they've been opened before as the molding is missing and the black goop is almost gone, almost as if it melted off and the tabs are broken.

But ... buying headlights is as difficult as can be (I'm sooooo confused as to which to get) that I've been frozen into indecision.

Anyway, digging some more on the adjustment procedure, and going back to 2008 references, it appears we're still a bit wrong on the procedure.

Take a look at this PJB post which clearly says that it's NEITHER one direction for both screws nor separate directions for each screw.

Apparently the keyword is DIAGONAL adjustment (which is why you need two screws).

So, I think our procedure is a bit wrong still and we need to hone it.

Pending results to the answer to this question ... if the answer is "diagonal", then here is my modified 12-step proposed headlight alignment procedure (please fix as needed!).

(1) Inflate tires properly, tank 1/2 full, typical driver in seat.
(2) Find a wall at least 4' high abutting about 35' of level drivable ground
(3) Obtain two 6mm allen wrenches (each headlight's two adjusters must be turned simultaneously an equal number of turns in the same direction)
(4) Find a small self-standing or clipping light to see under the hood.

(5) On a dark night, park just close enough to the wall to fit your body in between as you string the tape along the wall.

(6) Mark a 10' horizontal line with tape on the wall at the headlight midpoint; the result should look something like this:
----------------------------------------

(7) At each headlight centerpoint, mark a vertical line with tape on the wall to make a plus sign (one for each headlight center point); the result should now look something like this:
--+---------------------------------+--

(8) Back the vehicle until the headlights are 25 feet from the wall and perpendicular to the wall.
(9) Switch the low beam on (both high & low adjust together for each headlight).
(10) Wait about 1 minute as the Xenons do a calibration run which takes about 30 seconds to complete.
(11) Cover one headlight with an opaque blanket or towel so that only one light is being aimed.
(12) Chant "Lateral:lateral, Medial:vertical", three or four times (or until at least the lateral:lateral part sinks in). This is because the lateral (outside) adjuster MOSTLY moves the headlight laterally (i.e., side to side); in actuality, it moves the headlight aim diagonally, but mostly horizontally. Likewise, the medial (inside) adjuster MOSTLY moves the headlight vertically (i.e., up and down); in actuality, it moves the headlight aim diagonally, but mostly vertically.

(13) Using both 6mm allen wrenches in place on one headlight, twist both adjusters an equal number of turns in the same direction such that the brightest area moves diagonally to about 2" below the horizontal reference tape and to 2" to the right of the vertical reference tape (i.e., the plus sign) for each side respectively (the spec is 2.1 inches/52mm +/- 1.3 inches/33mm).
(14) As a doublecheck, switch on the high beams (the respective alignment should remain the same).

The result should look something like this:
--+----------------------------------+--
-----*----------------------------------*

PS: It's confusing to me how BOTH adjusters work in tandem diagonally; but that's what the BMW E39 headlight aiming instructions seem to indicate.

Originally Posted by bluebee

I need to figure out what to buy first, either new headlights or just the adjusters.

Buying the headlights is what I'm leaning toward because mine look like they've been opened before as the molding is missing and the black goop is almost gone, almost as if it melted off and the tabs are broken.

But ... buying headlights is as difficult as can be (I'm sooooo confused as to which to get) that I've been frozen into indecision.

Anyway, digging some more on the adjustment procedure, and going back to 2008 references, it appears we're still a bit wrong on the procedure.

Take a look at this PJB post which clearly says that it's NEITHER one direction for both screws nor separate directions for each screw.

Apparently the keyword is DIAGONAL adjustment (which is why you need two screws).

So, I think our procedure is a bit wrong still and we need to hone it.

I think he is probably right but each adjustment does do one direction more than the other direction. You are adjusting, obviously, against one pivot point within the housing so it isn't going to be dead on 100% one direction only but for all intents and purposes, I think it is acceptable to treat it that way. You only need to shine the lights on a wall and start cranking and you will see that. I did. Nothing like doing it yourself and witnessing it yourself to confirm things.

The procedures don't have to be dead nuts on--just generally close enough to aid someone with half a brain to accomplish what they need to and I think this one is there.

Originally Posted by Ågent99

I think he is probably right but each adjustment does do one direction more than the other direction.

Hi Ågent99,

I think it's actually more confusing than that, but, I'll leave it alone as I think different headlights have different adjustments ... hence the confusion (since any one of us only has one type ... and in my case, the adjusters are clearly broken so I can't tell).

For example, notice this quote from this Jim Cash thread:
- Xenon Headlight Adjustment Procedure ???
"There are 2 versions of the lights - before April 98 they had leveling bulbs in the lights, after that they have changed. The newer ones don't have the bubble. They still have 2 adjusting knobs, but one does the low beam and the other adjusts the high. There is no longer a horizontal adjustment."

BTW, Jim Cash gives a more precise specification:
2.1 inches (52mm) +/- 1.3 inches (33mm)

He also adds a couple of steps missing from our DIY:
- "Turn on the low beam xenons, and wait about 1 minute (they do a calibration run which takes about 30 seconds to complete.)"
- "It helps to cover one lamp while you do the other."

BTW, I'm totally stuck at the moment because NONE of the DIYs explain how to remove the ball-and-socket for the non-self-leveling H7 halogens!

Ah, covering one light does make sense--good trick!

In my study on this, I've found that adjusting the high beams to be easier than the low (Xenons in my case) because the highs are a tighter pinpoint of light whereas the Xenons are more diffuse and spread out and it isn't always easy to find the center. Further, I have my DRLs turned on (Daytime Running Lights--they are the brights at 30% power) and those make it really easy to adjust.

I'm never one to disagree with the almighty Ca$h but both the high and low move at the same time as they are in the same physical housing. There is no way for them to move independent of each other. Further, the adjuster do adjust lateral and horizontal but as you pointed out, they actually move in a diagonal but certainly one direction is stronger than the other.

One way to know for sure what to do with yours is to take one apart and look at it.

Just for the record, while I'm waiting for my $102 USD aluminum adjusters to arrive from Great Britain (see all your options here), I decided to fabricate a Delrin adjuster (white) and an HDPE adjuster (black).

I must say even though I have no tools other than a saw, a vise, and a 5/32" drill bit, it was quite easy to make two adjusters for a total raw materials cost of about two dollars.

Mind you, I didn't measure anything ... I just eyeballed it. And, in hind sight, it would have worked better had I the headlights in front of me (I left them on the car). But, it was pretty easy. Much easier than I expected. Anyone who is good with tools could make them in a half hour. It took me about an hour to make these crude affairs.

I'll put more fabrication details in this thread.

Uhm, yeah, sure looks like you eyeballed them!

Originally Posted by Ågent99

Uhm, yeah, sure looks like you eyeballed them!

Just to be clear, since I'm waiting for the machined aluminum reflectors to arrive, the point was to see if/how it could be done. It was an experiment.

It was an experiment that proved (at least to myself) that, in an hour, anyone could (if I can, anyone can) cut 75 cents worth of HDPE or Delrin or Teflon and make a reasonable working facsimile of the original PBT plastic Hella headlight adjuster. I only had a hand saw, a hand drill, and a vise handy; I'm sure someone with better equipment could do a much cleaner job.

More importantly, I proved that the intricate flutes in the headlight adjusters are not necessary; all that is needed is the outward geometric shape.

Bearing in mind all the other hand crafters opted for a bolt and acorn nut, today I picked up some nylon, brass, and steel acorn nuts and bolts from the hardware store. The diameter of the flat bottom of the bulb on the adjusters is 10mm.

My next experiment will be to create the adjusters using these acorn nuts instead of trying to crudely hack out the stalk and bulb with a miter saw.

Wish me luck!

NOTE: To give back to the team, when the machined aluminum adjusters arrive, I'll make all the measurements you guys need to create the files for the CNC machines and to make the CAD drawings.

I bought a used 2003 530i and my Low Beam Xenon Headlight Adjusters were broken. The problem was not Auto Level Sensor as originally thought.
I read 2 threads and formulated my own Surgery & fabrication. Cost me $35 ($33 Solder Gun from Home Depot) and Screw and Nuts from Home Depot.

I got the idea of surgery from this thread &
1. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...some-pics.html
I got the idea of Wood fabrication from this thread
2. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...-hardwood.html

What you need: Table Saw, 1.5" wooden screen (pointy ones not machine screw), 10mm socket set, some flat screw driver.

Steps
1. Use Thread #1 to remove Headlights and cut open the Adjuster area using Solder Gun (worked really good).
2. Use Thread #2 using Wood to fabricate Adjuster (use #1 Diagram as reference). Be careful with table saw as lots of delicate cutting is needed. No need to buy Acorn nuts and sand down. Use regular nut without sanding and worked fine.
Removing all brittle plastic adjuster part was most challenging step not to break "holder." Take your time on this.
3. Put it all together. To close the surgery area that opened, I just used electrical tape. I may have to open and melt Surgery areas for proper seal to block out moistures another time.
4. Finally do the height adjustment at night.
Total time 2.5 hours, but if I have to do it again it would only take about 1 hour for both left and right side and cost would be less than $1.00.

You can do this and save lot of money. Just be patient and plan ahead.

Hey guys,

At 200 degrees in the oven, how long should you leave each headlight unit there? I'm afraid of overheating those lamps. Thanks in advance.