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E85 / E86 Z4 (2003-2008)
E85 Z4 convertible and E86 Z4 coupe talk with our BMW gurus here.

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  #201  
Old 05-25-2007, 01:35 PM
Cliff Cliff is offline
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Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post
2) No idea, but I wouldn't go with Alcon over StopTech, Brembo or PFC. If you want to upgrade your brakes for cheap, swap the pads and put in stainless lines.
Just to add another data point, I spoke with a guy from Evosport at the Fest and he indicated Rotora will have a caliper kit for our cars sometime this summer. I think it's 4 piston front and 2 piston rear fixed calipers, and works with the stock rotors.
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  #202  
Old 05-25-2007, 03:24 PM
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The HACK The HACK is offline
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Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post
-That's the line I started with, and the line used by most of the other drivers. It may well be faster, I'm not sure yet. What I do know is that taking the higher line I can carry a lot more speed (135mph vs 120mph mid-corner) and still power out. Every time I was behind someone and they went low I either passed them or closed distance on them. Of course, being on the banking for the first time I was not about to push the car. It's possible that if I was willing to really push the car using both lines that the hi-low line would be faster. Or maybe not - the Coupe is really more of a momentum car. I'll make it a point to find out next time I'm there. Actually...I'll go back through my vids and see if I can accurately time the corner using when I was using both techniques...

-I did, the MC hates double-apex on that turn. My M5 liked the double apex line a lot, but it's a point-and-shoot car due to its weight and torque. When I tried it in the Coupe starting rotation at 5A was easy with a little trail brake (same as for single-apex), but maintaining rotation with throttle was difficult on the tighter line. It just seemed like either the front tires would push or the rears would slip too much. It's possible that this could have been partly due to the fact that most of the other cars ran the single-apex line, so the double-apex line had less rubber on it and was not as warm. The other thing I found out about the double-apex line is that I track out at a slower speed (and at a weaker part of the S54 powerband) and consequently have less acceleration and speed down the following straight. Next time I'm there I'll try it both ways again. It could be the little variables that change the corner.

-I was concerned about marbles (especially with so many running a low line), so I limited my banking excursions to the "4th lane" as I call it for turn-in and no higher than the "3rd lane" in-turn.

-Any suggestions for the last complex (turn 13+)? I never felt like I found a groove through there.

I find my experience to be significantly different from yours, but at this point our cars might as well be two completely different chassi given all the work you've done. I'm still nearly 100% stock, so on stock tires the car actually rotated very well through turn 5 using a double apex line where if I lift slightly mid turn the car rotates and points me at the right direction, then I ease back into the throttle and power out. Same for the bank, I would carry the high line through the bank, then just ever so slightly ease out of the throttle and point the car back down into the bottom of the bank. It doesn't actually slow the car down much and all you're doing is just lightly breathing off of the throttle, then immediately back on. Maybe this line works better with the chicane because I had to "slow down" a little by the chicane so the overall speed through the turn isn't as high, who knows.

Last complex is actually a little counter intuitive, you need to NAIL that last left hand turn so the entire complex is about setting up for that last turn. Doesn't matter if you're going through the first half of the complex fast. You just need to carry enough speed, and maybe even scrub a little off by where the grass is on your right. Are you braking, or lightly brushing the brakes there? It might help to slow down just a little there so you can be on throttle from that 2nd to last left hander all the way out. Again, it was hard to judge without being able to hear the throttle, but it almost looked to me like you had to ease off the throttle a little before the last corner worker station before pit-in to make the line work? If you've done that last complex right, you would be feeding into full throttle as you go past the big tall pylon on the left.

Hate to keep harping on it, but if you can hear the throttle you can actually tell if you're on line by figuring out where the brake or neutral throttle to full throttle transition are by the engine noise. That'll determine if you're
"on line" or not.

Overall excellent lap, I enjoyed the video especially since I was there just a day after you were.
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  #203  
Old 05-25-2007, 09:18 PM
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Palantirion Palantirion is offline
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Originally Posted by Cliff View Post
Just to add another data point, I spoke with a guy from Evosport at the Fest and he indicated Rotora will have a caliper kit for our cars sometime this summer. I think it's 4 piston front and 2 piston rear fixed calipers, and works with the stock rotors.
-I'd personally pick StopTech, Brembo or PFC over Rotora. Actually, I'd probably prefer stock components with a pad swap and stianless lines. I just don't trust that Rotora does their homework or desires to make the best possible product like StopTech or PFC. Maybe my opinion is colored by debates I've read on m5board.com between Dave Zeckhausen and Brad from Evosport, maybe from comparison between the types of cars StopTech and Rotora chose to advertise their products on. Anyway, it's just my opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
I find my experience to be significantly different from yours, but at this point our cars might as well be two completely different chassi given all the work you've done. I'm still nearly 100% stock, so on stock tires the car actually rotated very well through turn 5 using a double apex line where if I lift slightly mid turn the car rotates and points me at the right direction, then I ease back into the throttle and power out. Same for the bank, I would carry the high line through the bank, then just ever so slightly ease out of the throttle and point the car back down into the bottom of the bank. It doesn't actually slow the car down much and all you're doing is just lightly breathing off of the throttle, then immediately back on. Maybe this line works better with the chicane because I had to "slow down" a little by the chicane so the overall speed through the turn isn't as high, who knows.
-I think you are right about the chicane. When I ran the chicane there we kept quite low on the banking afterwards because speeds were arrested by the chicane. So there was no advantage in going higher to carry more speed.

As for turn 5, it seemed to me that using the single-apex or double-apex lines kept me in the turn for about the same amount of time (slow and short vs. long and fast), but I carried more speed with the single apex. I'm definately going to experiment with these options next time.

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Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
Last complex is actually a little counter intuitive, you need to NAIL that last left hand turn so the entire complex is about setting up for that last turn. Doesn't matter if you're going through the first half of the complex fast. You just need to carry enough speed, and maybe even scrub a little off by where the grass is on your right. Are you braking, or lightly brushing the brakes there? It might help to slow down just a little there so you can be on throttle from that 2nd to last left hander all the way out. Again, it was hard to judge without being able to hear the throttle, but it almost looked to me like you had to ease off the throttle a little before the last corner worker station before pit-in to make the line work? If you've done that last complex right, you would be feeding into full throttle as you go past the big tall pylon on the left.
-I'll try to describe my process for negotiating the last section. Peak at around 120mph in the infield straight, brake, carry some brake into turn 13 (at least that's what I call it, the slow right-hander), transition to throttle, throttle steer around turn 14 missing the curbing by a foot to set up apex at the cone before turning right at turn 15. For turn 16 (big cone) I have to brake a little to rotate the car then it back on the gas. I double-apex the last two "corner cones" (wide on the first apex, tight on the second), being WOT right about when I pass the corner worker station. I definately focus on that last corner, but I'd like to see if I can find a more refined path through the preceeding few corners.
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  #204  
Old 05-25-2007, 11:02 PM
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The HACK The HACK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post
I'll try to describe my process for negotiating the last section. Peak at around 120mph in the infield straight, brake, carry some brake into turn 13 (at least that's what I call it, the slow right-hander), transition to throttle, throttle steer around turn 14 missing the curbing by a foot to set up apex at the cone before turning right at turn 15. For turn 16 (big cone) I have to brake a little to rotate the car then it back on the gas. I double-apex the last two "corner cones" (wide on the first apex, tight on the second), being WOT right about when I pass the corner worker station. I definately focus on that last corner, but I'd like to see if I can find a more refined path through the preceeding few corners.
The preceding turns aren't nearly as important as that last section you described, but you need to think of the entire section as one giant set-up for that last left hand turn. So work back from that last turn. Think backwards. That means to make the widest and smoothest arc possible. In order to do that, that last left hander next to the big pylon must carry you out in a wide arc all the way to the third to last cone on the right. When done right, I often touch that third to last cone with my right front tire. Then draw an arc back from that third to last cone through the big pylon. That should leave your car completely parallel to the grass on the right hand side before the turn-in. In order to get parallel to the grass, you need to draw a nice smooth curve out and be about 1/3rd of the way to the left of the track on turn-in. Then draw another smooth curve back from the double left.

In analyzing your footage, I think a simple alteration by turning into that first left after the first right a little earlier may actually smooth out your line. But then again, this is a lot easier to say and do from the passenger side or the "Monday Morning Quarterback's" chair.
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  #205  
Old 05-26-2007, 05:58 PM
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Palantirion Palantirion is offline
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Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
The preceding turns aren't nearly as important as that last section you described, but you need to think of the entire section as one giant set-up for that last left hand turn. So work back from that last turn. Think backwards. That means to make the widest and smoothest arc possible. In order to do that, that last left hander next to the big pylon must carry you out in a wide arc all the way to the third to last cone on the right. When done right, I often touch that third to last cone with my right front tire. Then draw an arc back from that third to last cone through the big pylon. That should leave your car completely parallel to the grass on the right hand side before the turn-in. In order to get parallel to the grass, you need to draw a nice smooth curve out and be about 1/3rd of the way to the left of the track on turn-in. Then draw another smooth curve back from the double left.

In analyzing your footage, I think a simple alteration by turning into that first left after the first right a little earlier may actually smooth out your line. But then again, this is a lot easier to say and do from the passenger side or the "Monday Morning Quarterback's" chair.
-I think I'm following you. So I should turn in a little earlier at the big cone, carving a wider arc which will set up for a wider faster arc at the last cone before the straight, yes?
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  #206  
Old 05-27-2007, 06:09 PM
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The HACK The HACK is offline
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Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post
-I think I'm following you. So I should turn in a little earlier at the big cone, carving a wider arc which will set up for a wider faster arc at the last cone before the straight, yes?
Well...Close. You need to use more of that section of the track before the left onto the straight. I would come close to tapping the third to last cone on the right and use that as my exit point from the last left hander with the big pylon.

What I was trying to explain, and not explaining well, is that you need to work backwards through these turns. If you want to hit that last left hander onto the straight well, you need to work back and string each turn together in your head before even getting to the braking zone on the back straight. I think you can turn in a little earlier on the left hander right after the right at the end of the braking zone on the back straight to make a bigger arc through the first half of the complex.

It's easier to show on the track than to verbally explain.
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"Bench racing" about track times driven by professionals are like a bunch of nerds arguing which Princess Leia is hotter, the slave Leia or the no-bra jail-bait Leia. No matter how compelling your argument is, the plain and simple fact is, none of you will EVER get to hit that.
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  #207  
Old 05-27-2007, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
Well...Close. You need to use more of that section of the track before the left onto the straight. I would come close to tapping the third to last cone on the right and use that as my exit point from the last left hander with the big pylon.

What I was trying to explain, and not explaining well, is that you need to work backwards through these turns. If you want to hit that last left hander onto the straight well, you need to work back and string each turn together in your head before even getting to the braking zone on the back straight. I think you can turn in a little earlier on the left hander right after the right at the end of the braking zone on the back straight to make a bigger arc through the first half of the complex.

It's easier to show on the track than to verbally explain.
-I think you've explained it well. I'm looking forward to getting back there and trying it out
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  #208  
Old 05-29-2007, 04:15 PM
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Luminor Luminor is offline
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Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post

Originally Posted by Luminor
I'll ask a few specific questions:

Are there any other exhaust options outside of SuperSprint?
Does anyone know if there is an Alcon Brake kit available for our cars?
Is it worth getting the UUC short shifter (at $350) or is the Dinan shifter worth waiting on?
Are there any other clutch/flywheel options other then UUC?
Does anyone have any experience with 19" Neez wheels on the M Coupe?
I've heard some mention of Motons being applied to the M Coupe, anyone else seen/heard this?

1) Not yet. BMS is working on one for my Coupe. I expect that by the end of summer (at the latest) it will be a viable option.
2) No idea, but I wouldn't go with Alcon over StopTech, Brembo or PFC. If you want to upgrade your brakes for cheap, swap the pads and put in stainless lines.
3) I really like the stock shifter, so I haven't researched any Z4 alternatives.
4) Not I.
5) We considered several of Moton's products but opted for TCK's because they are less expensive than Motons, easier to install, and are the valving is already optimized for the MC. SteveHiFi may be going with Moton Club Sports.
I forgot to include the 3.91 versus 4.10 diff question. Anyone have any opinions on these options. I've searched around here a bit looking for a comparison write up but haven't found much of anything related to the M Coupe. I'm considering the 4.10 over the 3.91 but am concerned that 1st gear will be overly short in normal driving situations. Anyone with experience here care to comment?

Thanks again.
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  #209  
Old 05-30-2007, 04:25 AM
Caddyshk Caddyshk is offline
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Originally Posted by Luminor View Post
I forgot to include the 3.91 versus 4.10 diff question. Anyone have any opinions on these options. I've searched around here a bit looking for a comparison write up but haven't found much of anything related to the M Coupe. I'm considering the 4.10 over the 3.91 but am concerned that 1st gear will be overly short in normal driving situations. Anyone with experience here care to comment?

Thanks again.
Most of us here have found the stock gearing pretty much ideal for track use. Short of using the car as a dragster, I'm not sure what is to be gained other than a painfully short first gear and far too high an RPM range on the highway. I would suggest trying the car extensively first prior to making this kind of dramatic change to the diff.
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  #210  
Old 05-30-2007, 08:23 AM
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Luminor Luminor is offline
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Originally Posted by Caddyshk View Post
Most of us here have found the stock gearing pretty much ideal for track use. Short of using the car as a dragster, I'm not sure what is to be gained other than a painfully short first gear and far too high an RPM range on the highway. I would suggest trying the car extensively first prior to making this kind of dramatic change to the diff.
First of all, thank you for your response, I appreciate the feedback. However, with all do respect, and I mean that, I'm really just looking for objective information on how, exactly, these changes will affect the car. I understand the concept of a car being extremely capable as is and that the average person really won't be able to use the car 10/10ths. That being said, I've made a decision...for what ever reason...to make some changes. I'm looking for data to help finalize that decision.

So, can I take from your response that your experience has been that 3.91 or 4.10 setups are really only good for drag racing and that they'll cause first gear to be overly short and will raise the RPM range for highway driving extensively? Can you provide any details?

BTW, how do you like the SuperSprint exhaust? Is there a worth while performance gain?

Thanks again.

Last edited by Luminor; 05-30-2007 at 09:14 AM.
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  #211  
Old 05-30-2007, 10:05 AM
tracknut tracknut is offline
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Originally Posted by Luminor View Post
So, can I take from your response that your experience has been that 3.91 or 4.10 setups are really only good for drag racing and that they'll cause first gear to be overly short and will raise the RPM range for highway driving extensively? Can you provide any details?
I'm another one that hasn't actually changed the gearing on the M Coupe, so take this for whatever it's worth to you. Personally I agree that the gearing already feels quite short. If you haven't done the math on the new gears, the 3.91 will be an 8% increase, the 4.10 a 13% increase in RPM. So your first gear shift will come 8/13% sooner, or your revs will be 8/13% higher when driving on the freeway, however you might want to look at it.

Obviously not much of this has bearing on the track though. Typically on the track you're wanting to get your top gear (probably 5th in this case, not OD) such that you top it out at the top speed of the track, at top RPM. If I've done the math right, top theoretical speed at 7500rpm with stock size tires is 160mph in 5th. A fair bit higher than most of us would get on a track. A 3.91 gear should bring that down to 149mph, and a 4.10 to 142mph. So obviously a gearing change for top speed on the track could be worthwhile, but then of course you have to take into account that you're shifting more.

Dave
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  #212  
Old 05-30-2007, 10:25 AM
Caddyshk Caddyshk is offline
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Originally Posted by Luminor View Post
First of all, thank you for your response, I appreciate the feedback. However, with all do respect, and I mean that, I'm really just looking for objective information on how, exactly, these changes will affect the car. I understand the concept of a car being extremely capable as is and that the average person really won't be able to use the car 10/10ths. That being said, I've made a decision...for what ever reason...to make some changes. I'm looking for data to help finalize that decision.

So, can I take from your response that your experience has been that 3.91 or 4.10 setups are really only good for drag racing and that they'll cause first gear to be overly short and will raise the RPM range for highway driving extensively? Can you provide any details?

BTW, how do you like the SuperSprint exhaust? Is there a worth while performance gain?

Thanks again.
Only personal experience with diff changes was in 5.0L Mustang 20 years ago (made a big difference on that car).

I'm suggesting 1st is already short in these things and the RPM's at highway speed in 6th are in fact bordering on high too. 1/4 mile runs require a 1/2/3/4 shift in our cars, so the suggested diff changes won't require an additional shift - relative torque to the wheels should improve so in theory at least your 60' times would improve. WRT the SS, I'm only running the cans on the OE X-Pipe. Sounds great, however I highly doubt any performance gain.
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Last edited by Caddyshk; 05-30-2007 at 10:34 AM. Reason: add
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  #213  
Old 05-30-2007, 10:47 AM
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I feel bad for hijacking this thread, I'm going to move my questions to their own thread. Thanks again for the replies here...
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  #214  
Old 05-30-2007, 01:50 PM
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I think Caddyshk said it best. I swapped diffs in my M5 (10% shorter) and it was very worthwhile. The extra torque really helps the heavy car get off the line. The top speed in each gear was not changed as my Dinan software increases the rev limiter by the same 10%. I've considered a similar change in my MC, but due to potential generational differences I don't know how possible the diff/software combo is. I'll learn more this summer.
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  #215  
Old 05-30-2007, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post
I think Caddyshk said it best. I swapped diffs in my M5 (10% shorter) and it was very worthwhile. The extra torque really helps the heavy car get off the line. The top speed in each gear was not changed as my Dinan software increases the rev limiter by the same 10%. I've considered a similar change in my MC, but due to potential generational differences I don't know how possible the diff/software combo is. I'll learn more this summer.

If you didn't have the software to counter the higher RPM per gear, (which is currently the case for our cars) would it still have been a worth while change? Also what did you swap in? Dinan 3.91?
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  #216  
Old 05-30-2007, 02:16 PM
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If you didn't have the software to counter the higher RPM per gear, (which is currently the case for our cars) would it still have been a worth while change? Also what did you swap in? Dinan 3.91?
-I don't think I'd bother without the software because I know what would do to my shift points on-track. But for street driving it wouldn't be too bad to run through the gears 8-10% faster. The torque multiplication is a good thing. I might go Dinan as their products are usually a slam dunk, but I would first check with BMS to see if it's something their diff builder could do for less money. When we wanted a locking diff for my wife's wagon I went that route and saved about $2000 vs. Dinan. But building a locker and changing the ratio are apples and oranges.

I'm a little hesitant to dump the stock locking mechanism in my MC because I LOVE the way it works. If it was a choice between changing the gear ratio and keeping the stock locker, I'd keep the stock locker. But it shouldn't be a problem to do both, it will just require research...
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  #217  
Old 06-15-2007, 05:56 AM
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Palantirion, any updates to your car recently?

I still haven't made a decision on the diff. Would changing to a 3.91 or 4.10 automatically change the locking mechanism or would I specifically have to ask to have that changed? Sounds like I'd want to leave it. My apologies if that's stupid question, as I'm not that mechanically inclined.

I am getting closer to making a BBK decision. I'm looking at the Brembo 15", 6 pistion kit. Its big $, but seems to be top notch. I was quoted the following for the kit, does it seem high?

15" 6 piston fronts - 4295.00
13.6" 4 piston rears - 2795.00
Labor - ~400.00
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  #218  
Old 06-15-2007, 12:36 PM
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Palantirion, any updates to your car recently?
-There have been a couple of very minor changes, which I will post as soon as I can. Most of my mod time has been sunk trying to start/finish three things:
1) Finishing the carpet panels, increasing functionality and fit/finish.
2) Custom exhaust, which will be the prototype for a BMS exhaust for the Z4 M.
3) Carbon GTR hood (of my design) and roof (and maybe rear deck).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luminor View Post
I still haven't made a decision on the diff. Would changing to a 3.91 or 4.10 automatically change the locking mechanism or would I specifically have to ask to have that changed? Sounds like I'd want to leave it. My apologies if that's stupid question, as I'm not that mechanically inclined.
-I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure that changing the ratio (ring/pinion) would have no effect of the locker. IF you want to change the ratio just for acceleration purposes you might want to consider buying a BMS battery bracket instead. It'll be waaaay cheaper and the 45lbs you drop will likely prove more a benifit for acceleration than the gear swap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luminor View Post
I am getting closer to making a BBK decision. I'm looking at the Brembo 15", 6 pistion kit. Its big $, but seems to be top notch. I was quoted the following for the kit, does it seem high?

15" 6 piston fronts - 4295.00
13.6" 4 piston rears - 2795.00
Labor - ~400.00
-Yeah, that seems high to me. For that money I'd go with StopTechs, better balance (I haven't driven the Brembos, but the StopTechs are perfect!) and more specifically engineered for each application. But if you're not going to be tracking the car you really don't need a BBK at all.
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Old 06-16-2007, 05:39 AM
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Luminor Luminor is offline
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Location: Chicago, IL
 
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Mein Auto: 335i, E350 Estate, F430
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Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post
-IF you want to change the ratio just for acceleration purposes you might want to consider buying a BMS battery bracket instead. It'll be waaaay cheaper and the 45lbs you drop will likely prove more a benifit for acceleration than the gear swap.
Is the bracket in final production form yet? Any prices out yet? How's the life been holding up on the smaller battery? I only drive the car once or twice per week (maybe less).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post
-
-Yeah, that seems high to me. For that money I'd go with StopTechs, better balance (I haven't driven the Brembos, but the StopTechs are perfect!) and more specifically engineered for each application. But if you're not going to be tracking the car you really don't need a BBK at all.
I will be tracking the car from time to time. How far off are those prices from the StopTechs? $100s? $1000+? Thanks again.
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  #220  
Old 06-16-2007, 04:03 PM
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Palantirion Palantirion is offline
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Location: Southern CA
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 M5-S2, 2002 540iT-S2
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Originally Posted by Luminor View Post
Is the bracket in final production form yet? Any prices out yet? How's the life been holding up on the smaller battery? I only drive the car once or twice per week (maybe less).
-As long as you drive it for 15+ minutes once a week it should be fine. Otherwise you'll want to get a trickle charger.

The bracket IS in final production form. For pricing you'll have to call Chris (714-429-0257). I believe it's in the $200-$300 range, but I don't recall if that includes the apx. $100 battery.


I will be tracking the car from time to time. How far off are those prices from the StopTechs? $100s? $1000+? Thanks again.
-I think $100s, you'll have to check with a reseller to be sure. Chris is a StopTech dealer, and his prices are very competative.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:45 PM
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Palantirion Palantirion is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 M5-S2, 2002 540iT-S2
Update:
With luck, I will hear my Coupe fire through its new custom cat-back (3-stage) exhaust tomorrow afternoon I can't wait...
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:47 AM
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Luminor Luminor is offline
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Location: Chicago, IL
 
Join Date: May 2007
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Mein Auto: 335i, E350 Estate, F430
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Originally Posted by Palantirion View Post
Update:
With luck, I will hear my Coupe fire through its new custom cat-back (3-stage) exhaust tomorrow afternoon I can't wait...
...so how did it sound? Any pictures? Is just the piping custom or did you build the cans too? If not, which did you use?

BTW, what are your (or anyone elses) thoughts on the GruppeM ram air intake for our cars (M coupe)? Worth anything more then noise?
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  #223  
Old 06-22-2007, 04:59 PM
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Palantirion Palantirion is offline
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Location: Southern CA
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 M5-S2, 2002 540iT-S2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luminor View Post
...so how did it sound? Any pictures? Is just the piping custom or did you build the cans too? If not, which did you use?

BTW, what are your (or anyone elses) thoughts on the GruppeM ram air intake for our cars (M coupe)? Worth anything more then noise?
-I got there too early, so no sound today, but a LOT of progress has been made. Jose (fabricator/intaller) and Chris (BMS) designed it to be a 3-piece modular system, so customers will be able to order the cans, x-pipe, and scrubber cat-ellimination straight pipes separately. I thought this was a great idea since everyone's needs vary. Jose is sticking to Magnaflow parts whenever possible, because they are high quality and will be easy to source to replicate changes in-house. All the tubing is custom, and in fact Jose has been test-fitting and modifying the clearances and assembly process to ensure that each system will fit together perfectly, every time. The Magnaflow cans will have to be modified because of the angles of the BMW exhaust routing, so basically EVERY single piece in the system is modified in some way. I'm very exited about the product I'm also talking with Jose about fabbing tuned headers and moving the primary cats downstream - similar to SS's E46 system, but with better flow and better quality. Now on to pics:

Here is my Coupe on the lift:


It's filthy right now. I didn't wash it after Cal Speedway because I knew it was just going to sit in dirty shops until the exhaust was done...but I'm starting to feel guilty now


The stock x-pipe and resonator, note the crimped pipes and tight turns


JP's x-pipe and resonator


A comparison of the tips. I LOVE the tapered interior of the Magnaflow tips. I hope they sound as good as they look!


A comparison of the Magnaflow cans/tips with the stock can on the right side. Aside from the obvious aesthetic improvement, I'm pleased to see how much smaller the new cans will be. This will help underbody airflow and reduce drag - something I've wanted to modify since the day one.


Speaking of airflow, I forgot to post pics of the Coupe's brake ducts when we cut them out for Cal Speedway.
Before:


After:



I also got a bug up my ass to see if by some miracle my rear 275 RA-1s would fit up front. They don't clear the fenders, but not by as much as I thought. Maybe if I figure out a way to do CF fenders and bumper I can make room for some serious rubber up there


And lastly, for all of you who complain about the rear view in the M Coupe:


By accident I discovered that if you tilt the rearview mirror so that the top of the rear glass bisects the mirror, you can see straight back quite a ways. This ratio will change depending on how tall you are and how you have your seat positioned, but I hope it helps. It IS possible to see out the back


p.s. All exhaust parts will be weighed once the system is finalized.
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  #224  
Old 06-22-2007, 05:35 PM
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Palantirion Palantirion is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 M5-S2, 2002 540iT-S2
Although you can see it in one of the other pics, I thought I'd post a cleaner photo of my new plate:


Of course, with no CF on the car and no specific power gains to-date it's arguably false advertising , But the car IS lighter than stock and has vastly improved handling and braking. One thing at a time...
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Old 06-22-2007, 10:35 PM
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ROM3N ROM3N is offline
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Location: AZ
 
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Mein Auto: Z4M coupe
Looks really nice Cant wait to see what you think of the sound. BTW whats the latest on your suspension do you still have noise in the front ?
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