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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #101  
Old 10-24-2010, 08:10 AM
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ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
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Finally got around to hooking up the home-made wideband and got the idle nailed

[video]
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  #102  
Old 10-26-2010, 02:03 PM
e^2 e^2 is offline
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That's awesome. Good work. What is your name on tgo? I had a v6 camaro that I used tunerpro and a moates prom burner to convert mine over to speed density. Currently running a carb'ed 454 in an 86 camaro soon to be multiport.
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  #103  
Old 10-27-2010, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by e^2 View Post
That's awesome. Good work. What is your name on tgo? I had a v6 camaro that I used tunerpro and a moates prom burner to convert mine over to speed density. Currently running a carb'ed 454 in an 86 camaro soon to be multiport.
I generally use the same username on all the forums. TGO it's firstfirebird, but the rest are either ForcedFirebird or Forced_Firebird. Check out the v6 forum over there, I've had three turbo kits on my v6 'bird (sold the TT kit before I got it running, though )

I also have a 10.8:1 327/TPI El Camino with old school DFI injection that I can't even control anymore unless I can find a 386 laptop ROFL. That's going to turn into a TT 327 with either a mini-ram or home-made intake, 1227730 ECM, budget style, hoping to take it to Grassroots $201x Challenge. Bought it as it sits for $100.

Also have done some interesting stuff with 4th gens, look on TGO (again in the v6 section) for a thread title "Not trolling..."

Is your 454 the "Motown" style SBC, or a true BBC? I have found it rare to stuff a big block in, specially when the larger small blocks are much lighter and nearly the same output while much easier to get in the narrow engine bay.

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 10-27-2010 at 07:50 PM.
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  #104  
Old 10-30-2010, 05:50 PM
e^2 e^2 is offline
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Oh ya, its a 1974 mark iv 454. Just got it on the scale at 3300 lbs without me. Th400, 3.5" straight exhaust, 049 heads, 9bolt rear, and about 300 whp with a 650 holly and a truck cam. Not too shabby but the weight distribution is way off and still a little chubby. Weighed the 325e too and it was 2635 lbs.
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  #105  
Old 10-31-2010, 07:04 PM
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Wow, 300whp with all that added weight? The current Camaro project should be well into the 200's whp and the engine itself weighs just over 300lbs (aluminum head 3.4/3500 hybrid engine).

Well, a friend was visiting from Indiana who happens to be an awesome GM 6cyl tuner and we have been messing around with the timing and fueling tables in the Motronic 1.3, and all I can say is what my kids say when they see something crazy... "Holy-Cow-Molie" lol. BMW held back a lot on the fuel and timing management! Car is really strong now, and the 4000-4500RPM lag is gone completely. Have to finish up part throttle and low RPM full throttle, but it feels like a whole new car now
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  #106  
Old 11-01-2010, 09:08 AM
e^2 e^2 is offline
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Well, 300 HP is all I'm going to get with that small cam and carb. 400Hp is easily and reliably achievable. Not to mention its over 400 ft.lbs. Back when it was a v6 car it was only 2850 but that little v6 just doesn't do it. How did you get the ignition handled on an fwd head/intake setup?

Have any performance numbers for your tune? How much fuel and timing did you add?
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  #107  
Old 11-02-2010, 03:00 PM
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The early iron head v6 blocks don't have provisions for the reluctor, but the later 3.4's do, but have a huge compression ratio when combined with the FWD heads. I have several customers running 11.3-11.5:1 on pump gas with no knock retard. The heart-shaped fast-burnn chambers are extremely well designed in the latter models. A friend of mine has a 3500 (215ci) v6 in a Cavalier running high 12's and making over 270whp - he just swapped it into a Camaro and added ITB's lol, he will be running some time this winter.


As far as the tune on the e30, so far had add some fuel. Before touching the tune, the fuel pressure had to be raised to 65psi just to get idle in the 14's and WOT in the 12's, but they were all over the place. Left the FP up at 65psi and changed the tables in the Motronic by feel for the spark and wideband for fuel. BMW really held back on the timing tables, started at 8 and went up to 30 something at 4k RPM, then back down to the low 20's until 4500, then back up 30's again (high 30's in some places). Smoothed out that curve and added timing, maxing now in the low 40's.

Don't have low part throttle tuned right just yet, but it feels like a whole new car. Will get more dyno results after the tune feels best, then will tweak the timing between pulls. Was talking to a couple locals and the most anyone had was 158whp with a Schrick 288 untuned, another has a chip/headers and made 138whp, both have intake/exhaust etc, so I feel that the 134whp made wasn't too bad in lean conditions (and spark for a 2.7i is much different than a 2.5), but we will see how much power increased soon enough. Then the plan is to make headers, tune for them, and go back to see how the design I have planned works out.

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-02-2010 at 03:02 PM.
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  #108  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:07 PM
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cant remnember if i told you this before .. but you know the m20 will never go far NA. no matter how much money you throw at it or how well you tune it. they are not made to be high HP NA engines. you can throw your life savings at it and you'll end up with a motor barely making 250 at the crank .. if your lucky.
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  #109  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:09 PM
e^2 e^2 is offline
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Where did you find info on doing a gm ECM swap? I have a 730 ECM not doing much.
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  #110  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fcsteve View Post
cant remnember if i told you this before .. but you know the m20 will never go far NA. no matter how much money you throw at it or how well you tune it. they are not made to be high HP NA engines. you can throw your life savings at it and you'll end up with a motor barely making 250 at the crank .. if your lucky.

And?

Doing this for fun/experience. The VW air cooled are not powerful motors, either, yet there are still guys modifying them. I have the resources to turbo the car in a weekend on the spot in my shop, but want to have fun testing and tuning the m20 before the turbo gets put on. I was on the GRM team and our Holset m20 went 12.3@117mph and came in 2nd in the auto x (3rd in the car show), so the m20 has potential with boost, yet it isn't cool/fun to increase the power output of an N/A engine? The car started life as an eta that was 120bhp and made 134whp un-tuned, just gives on a sense of accomplishment each goal obtained. I feel we may be able to see a nice gain with low expense on the m20. So far have spent about $350 on JY parts, next is the headers (~$120 in materials) and a reground cam (in the biz, can get them done for $130).

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Originally Posted by e^2 View Post
Where did you find info on doing a gm ECM swap? I have a 730 ECM not doing much.
No info, it's just something I feel could be accomplished. The early MegaSqurit guys were using GM sensors to run MS, so all the modifications to the sensors are documented. I have tons of ECM's laying around, 7730, 7727 and 9396's as well as pigtails for the harnesses that I use to make adapters for the OBD1.5-OBD1 swap kits for 93-95 Camaro/Firebird.
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  #111  
Old 11-03-2010, 03:00 PM
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Got some new skins for the car, really need to weld in the camber correction plates, tired of changing rear tires. put the fron 205/55-15's on the rear and got some 195/55's for the front. Gonna have to surely roll the rear 1/4's since the 205's barley rub now when the car has any load on the rear, or over big bumps.





My crazy neighbor at my shop posed like he owns the car, lol...



And my bud showed up with his vert the night before...






Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-03-2010 at 03:01 PM.
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  #112  
Old 11-03-2010, 03:10 PM
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Mein Auto: 325e,Jeep,240z,528i
wheel gap... in the front
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  #113  
Old 11-03-2010, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by noexceptions325 View Post
wheel gap... in the front
Tell me about it

I wanted used tires since I know the rears are just gonna go until I have time to put my car on the lift to correct the camber I put the coil overs on the last rung, and it still sits that high, thought about moving the spring perches, but again time in my shop is generally spent on working on others' cars...

EDIT: It's pretty lame when you have an early car and the rear fenders till tuck more than the front haha

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-03-2010 at 03:38 PM.
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  #114  
Old 11-03-2010, 04:46 PM
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what coilovers do you have that are that high up on full low ?
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  #115  
Old 11-03-2010, 05:10 PM
anstead610 anstead610 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcsteve View Post
what coilovers do you have that are that high up on full low ?
Remember how high i was slammed when i didn't have camber plates? Without camber plates that's pretty much as low as you can go. I do believe he can go a little lower but not much.
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  #116  
Old 11-03-2010, 06:42 PM
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I guess it depends on the coilovers mine sits a little higher than I expected but I'm at least an inch lower than him with same tire size (mine aren't stretched though)
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  #117  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:04 PM
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I made my own coil overs by buying 2.5" ID springs 7.25" high 500#, and bought some threaded coil over sleeves. Cut the stock perches off the strut tubes and welded a perch on in that same location. Dropped the car 1.5" front and 1" rear. Then it didn't sit low enough for me so I bought 6.25" tall and think they are 400# (bought them used).

On another car, we welded the perch lower and adjusted the sleeve nut up higher to keep the stiffer springs yet get lower.

I have an inside scoop on some dampers that fit our strut tubes, just shorter. Want to get a set of them and shorten the housings so the dampers last a little longer lol. It's crazy how much people spend on coilovers when they can be duplicated by any decent fabricator. A local made his in a garage with a flux-core MIG welder and angle grinder, look as good as any others on the market.

The centers of the rims are 12" from the highest point on the wheel wells (early high rear arches) on the lowest setting with the current springs.

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-03-2010 at 07:20 PM.
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  #118  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:11 PM
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wuold this inside scoop be corrado struts ?

what part of coilovers are you making with a mig welder and a grinder ?
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  #119  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fcsteve View Post
what part of coilovers are you making with a mig welder and a grinder ?
The perch is the only thing you could make
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  #120  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fcsteve View Post
wuold this inside scoop be corrado struts ?

what part of coilovers are you making with a mig welder and a grinder ?
I'm not lol. I have a Miller Synchrowave 300amp TIG welder nice band and chop saw, but I have seen them made that way and the guy has been daily driving on them for 3yrs without problems, and even competes in local auto-x.

Seriously, though, since you are giving the strut tower cores to someone to modify them, what's to stop one from just making them on their own?

I have some Bilstein Sports that need re-valving, they will cut them down for an extra fee, but yes, want to check out the Corrado dampers as well.

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-03-2010 at 08:08 PM.
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  #121  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:34 PM
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His question was what is he making. How can you make coilovers with a welder and a grinder. This makes no sense. Please explain
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  #122  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:46 PM
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Post #117. Welding a perch on is the only thing you have to do do convert to coil overs (welder) and cutting off the stock perch (grinder). The stock struts are actually coil over damper as it is, adding an adjustable perch and whatever spring of your choice is a basic setup. Next step would be adding shortened/valved (or adjustable) dampers, then camber plates. Many people have made this setup for e30's, it's nothing new, except I use a delrin upper perch to keep the spring centered on the damper, most weld a 2" tube to the stock top hat (too noisy for me, exhaust sux as it is).

EDIT: Just an FYI, Ground Control sells a kit to make your stock strut towers "coil overs". It's the same thing I did, just didn't buy the parts from them.

Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-03-2010 at 08:48 PM.
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  #123  
Old 11-03-2010, 09:00 PM
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people have been shortening their stock housings for coilovers since before GC even existed. thats nothing new. there is no reason to pay the $170 or whatever it is to have GC cut and weld them.

ive never heard of any e30 owner welding any kind of tube to center the spring. included with GC's springs are aluminum upper perches that sandwich between the hat and the strut.

the fronts are already coil-overs ??

the corrado struts are shorter and are what GC used to use in their kits, they still uise the same struts, but they have a contract with bilstein to put on the proper collars and what not. the issue with them is they are very skinny and heat up quick, to the point of where people have actually burned them out.

shortening bilsteins is a fine idea, but not at all cost effective for almost any consumer. especially considering that just a simple revalve from bilstein is $65 EACH plus shipping. that already puts them over the price of new shorter Koni's.
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Last edited by fcsteve; 11-03-2010 at 09:01 PM.
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  #124  
Old 11-03-2010, 09:59 PM
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ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
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Yes. Coil overs are just a McPhearson strut assembly just like the stock strut assemblies, the e30's just have the luxury of removable inserts to make the modification even easier.
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  #125  
Old 11-03-2010, 10:07 PM
e^2 e^2 is offline
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I have a set of coil overs that I was going to do his with. Glad you broke the ice. What do you plan on doing for the rears?
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