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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 02-19-2007, 12:09 AM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Z4 M no mess anti-freeze block drain

Installing gauge senders for the two gauges I'm adding. Water temperature sender goes in the stock anti-freeze drain plug.
Typically a major mess draining the anti-freeze.

If you have time (my car is on stands for the next couple of months) you can drain without a mess.
Take four to six sheets of Bounty paper towels and roll them up. Position them just under the block drain plug heading down.
Unscrew the plug some. The fluid gets sucked in by the Bounty. Gravity gets it to the bottom of the Bounty into the bucket.
Alan Alfano mentioned adding tin foil under the Bounty. Not necessary. The Bounty sucks up all of the fluid with no residue.
Hard to believe but it works.

Radiator drain is not a problem since the drain plug is straight down.
Drained ~7 quarts total. Don't know the Z4 M capacity. Z4 3.0 is 8 quarts with manual transmission.





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Last edited by Ron Stygar; 02-19-2007 at 12:33 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-19-2007, 01:53 AM
jeff330i jeff330i is offline
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that's the exact same way i defrosted my minifridge's freezer so all the water went into a bucket. Very clean - the liquid only falls off the lowest part of the paper towel. just set it up and walk away for a few hours. Except i'm sure dripping a radiator dry takes quite a bit longer.
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  #3  
Old 03-07-2007, 09:45 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Adding antifreeze

Since I knew how much I drained (7 quarts), I was curious to see if I could put back the same.

For the Z4, no antifreeze change cycle is recommended. If so, I couldn't find it.
Also can't find how much it holds total. My Z3 S54 recommended every four years.

So again if you have the time you can add the amount you drained back in over a week.
Squeeze the hoses, fill it up and do the same the next days.

When I finished the gauge wiring in the engine compartment and got the engine back together, I started it up to check for leaks. No leaks. Keep in mind that the M doesn't have a water temp gauge to watch the thermostat and how hot the water is. I shut it down.

Tonight I temporary wired up the gauges. Wiring is in the passenger footwell but has to be routed and connected in the center console. Next job.

Tach lights went out.
Water temp went to 180>190 and the thermostat opened. Went back to just under 180.
Oil temp got up to 165.

So if you have the time, you can replace the antifreeze and start it up with no bleeding necessary. Undid the cap and it is where it is supposed to be hot.

Last edited by Ron Stygar; 03-07-2007 at 10:12 PM.
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  #4  
Old 03-11-2007, 11:43 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Z4-M Antifreeze capacity

Antifreeze capacity is 10.7 liters.
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  #5  
Old 03-23-2007, 08:12 AM
Z3SteveJ Z3SteveJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
Since I knew how much I drained (7 quarts), I was curious to see if I could put back the same.

For the Z4, no antifreeze change cycle is recommended. If so, I couldn't find it.
Also can't find how much it holds total. My Z3 S54 recommended every four years.
I don't know if BMW is trying to save money on the free maintenance or not. Anyway, I'm in the middle of putting in a new thermostat and water pump right now, and there is a change recommendation right on the gallon bottle of the BMW coolant. It's three years.

Last edited by Z3SteveJ; 03-23-2007 at 08:14 AM.
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2010, 04:35 AM
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Drip-drip

Had to dig up this thread and got a good laugh out of it. I did a coolant flush on the roadster yesterday and had a good wad of bounty towel under the plug. Seems I was a little quick with the fingers. After the plug popped out the bounty REALLY did come in handy to wipe my face,head,arm,ect. I think the key word was-drip-
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  #7  
Old 04-26-2010, 08:00 AM
Incompatible Incompatible is offline
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Ron,
What/where are the gauges you're installing? Is this a total diy project or did you use a prefabricated gauge housing and sender adaptor blocks? Of course pics of your finished install are mandatory. tks
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2010, 01:11 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Incompatible View Post
Ron,
What/where are the gauges you're installing? Is this a total diy project or did you use a prefabricated gauge housing and sender adaptor blocks? Of course pics of your finished install are mandatory. tks
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=210399

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=205648

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=54
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  #9  
Old 04-27-2010, 02:45 PM
Incompatible Incompatible is offline
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Ron,
Thanks big time for taking the time to track down and post the info. I can see this happening in the next couple of months.
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  #10  
Old 04-28-2010, 10:00 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Originally Posted by Incompatible View Post
Ron,
Thanks big time for taking the time to track down and post the info. I can see this happening in the next couple of months.
Following shows the oil and water temp switch and the oil temp sensor on the sump.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=194687&page=4
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  #11  
Old 04-28-2010, 10:51 PM
blau335 blau335 is offline
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Block exit is the "preferred" location for a coolant temp sensor, there is an intermediary tube right before the Tstat you can weld a bung to that works great.

Also, a not as clean but not as dirty way is to have a over sized tube handy, tight before it's ready to come out put the tube on and let it finish it off. Get some spillage but much better then just letting it go everywhere.

M3s don't have a radiator drain, lucky we do, or unlucky because it is because we share the non M radiator.
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2010, 07:12 AM
Incompatible Incompatible is offline
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With the Si being as different as it is from the M, I will have to do my homework. Definitely something I want to do, and do right. Thanks again for the help.
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