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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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Old 03-15-2007, 06:07 PM
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jvr826 jvr826 is offline
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DIY E46 330ci TC Kline Single-Adjustable Coil Over Suspension

After spending almost 2 years with my 2005 BMW 330CI and spending several weekends at the track, I decided that I needed to upgrade the suspension. After tons of research I settled on the TC Kline Single Adjustable Coil over Suspension.

The problem with the kit is that it doesn't come with any installation instructions. So, I called upon a couple friends who have done the installation before, used the Internet, and made a call to my retailer for some guidance to get the job done. What follows is a description of the steps I used to setup and install the suspension in my car. Your car may be different, so make sure you know what you're doing before you get into this job.

Props
Retailer: Edge Motorworks, Eric Lind
Resident Bimmerfest Experts: ffej, KrisL, Pinecone. Thanks for all the advice and guidance guys!

References:
Kit Description
The coil over suspension kit includes new Koni shocks, new Koni struts, new springs, RSMs and Vorshlag adjustable camber plates. For my kit, I selected 450 pound front springs, 500 pound rear springs, and single adjustable shocks and struts.




Tools Needed
  • Floor jack
  • Jack stands
  • Assorted sockets and wrenches, 12 point
  • Torque wrench
  • Bungee cord
  • And my favorite tool of all, a headlamp

Rear Suspension Installation
For my install, I had to remove my rear sway bar to get enough movement in the rear suspension to sneak the rear springs out. Others were able to install the rear springs without removing the sway bar, however I have the UUC Swaybarbarians and found it easier to just remove the rear sway completely. This is best done by backing the car up onto ramps and removing all of the hardware including the bushing mounting bolts. I used some heavy wire to support the sway bar while I moved the car from the ramps and back into the garage so that I could get the car up on jack stands. Since you will be replacing the shocks and your kit comes with a new RSMs, it's a good time to install the Turner Motorsports Rear Shock Tower Mount Reinforcement Kit as well. This can also be done later if you did not order it, which is how I'm going to do it.

Removal of OEM Rear Shocks & Springs

Note: This procedure is identical for both driver and passenger sides of the vehicle.

1. Lift rear of car and support on jack stands.
2. Remove both rear wheels.
3. Remove trim panels in trunk to expose rear shock mounts.
4. Work one side at a time. Support trailing arm with your floor jack. Do not put too much pressure on the trailing arm, just get enough support so it will not fall once the shock absorber is released.
5. Using a 13 mm socket, remove RSM nuts to free up rear shock. If you are working alone, this works best so the shock absorber does not fall onto the floor.
6. Using an 18 mm socket, remove the shock retaining bolt and pull out the shock assembly.
7. Lower the floor jack so that the control arm also goes down and provides free space to pull out the OEM spring.
8. Remove the RSM gasket and set it aside as you will use it when you reinstall the new RSM. Also set aside the top rubber gasket from the OEM spring. You will reuse this as well.

Setup and Install of Spring and Height Adjuster
1. For ease of height adjustment, I installed the height adjuster on the bottom of the spring. Erik suggested a good starting point for the height adjuster was eight turns up from the bottom. I made a mark with a magic marker, bottomed the adjuster, and then turned it eight times. To install the adjuster in the spring, it should be positioned as an upside down "T".
2. Install the rubber gasket from the OEM spring on the top of the new TC Kline spring.
3. Place the spring gasket and height adjuster in position and make sure the top gasket is correctly mounted. There is no hardware to secure the adjuster or the spring, the weight of the car and the shorter length of the shock will hold it in place.
4. Using your floor jack, raise it until the spring adjuster and gasket are held in place.

Set up and Install of Shock Absorber
1. Install the new RSM on the new shock absorber. The RSM goes on the shock absorber shaft with the bolts pointing up. You will need two metric wrenches to install the RSM on the shock. Place the RSM on the shock shaft, install the washer, then hand tightened the nut. Place your 19 mm closed and wrench on the larger nut and put a 9 mm closed end wrench on the shaft just below where the shock adjuster will go. Using these two wrenches, you will be able to snug the 19 mm nut onto the shock absorber shaft and secure the RSM. Do not over tighten!
2. Secure the lower shock absorber with the new washer and 18 mm bolt. Note: only place the washer between the bolt and the shock absorber. Hand tighten.
3. Place the factory gasket and extend the RSM up into the mounting point so that both bolts extend through to the inside of the trunk. Reinstall the 13 mm nuts and torque to 21 foot-pounds.
4. Tighten the 18 mm bolt that secures the shock absorber, but do not final torque it yet.
5. You're done! Reinstall the wheel and repeat on the other side.
6. If you removed the sway bar, now is a good time to put it back in place and hang it with the wires used to secure it earlier. Lower the car to the ground, and complete reinstallation of the sway bar with the car on ramps.
7. With the car on ramps, torque the shock mounting bolts to 74 foot-pounds.

Front Suspension Installation
Installation of the front suspension is much more simple than it appears in the Bentley manual. At least on the non-M cars, there is no need for all the disassembly that the manual suggests. Note: If you have xenon headlamps, there is a sensor on the passenger side that must be removed prior to working on the suspension. Since the driver side is one step easier, I started there.

Assembling the Strut, Spring and Camber Plate
You must install the spring and camber plate to the strut assembly. The camber plates have hand written markings to indicate left and right. The driver side is left.

1. Thread the front height adjusters all the way down.
2. Fully extend the shock and push the bump stop all the way down. This will keep the shock extended.
3. Remove the nut and lock washer from the strut. Install the spring.
4. Cut the wire tie from the camber plate and install on the strut with the three bolts pointing up.
5. Install the lock washer and nut on the shaft and hand tighten.
6. Using an 11 mm wrench and your 19 mm wrench, tighten the bolt onto the strut. Do not over tighten!
7. Turn the height adjusters 14 turns up and lock the two rings together by holding one and turning the other using the spanner wrench shipped with your struts.
8. Repeat for the other side.
9. Your strut assemblies are now ready for installation.

Removal of Driver Side Strut Assembly
1. Lift front of vehicle and support on jack stands.
2. Remove both front wheels. Open the hood.
3. Using a 16mm deep well socket, and a 16mm open-end wrench, remove the sway bar end link from the strut assembly. You must use the open end wrench to hold the bolt from behind.
4. Using your floor jack, support the control arm so that it will not drop when you disconnect the strut. Using your bungee cord, hook one side to the control arm, wrap it around the brake disc and caliper and install the other side to the sway bar to prevent the assembly from tilting outwards.
5. Remove the brake line and other wires from the bracket on the back of the strut.
6. Remove the 18 mm pinch bolt and bracket.
7. Using a 13 mm socket, loosen the 3 nuts on the strut tower as much as possible without taking them off, or remove them and put them back on one full thread.
8. Now, carefully lower the floor jack and watch the strut come out of the steering knuckle. You will have to jimmy things around to get it most of the way out.
9. Now go back to the top and tighten the 3 strut tower nuts.
10. Return to the wheel well and remove the strut from the steering knuckle completely. The strut tower nuts will prevent it from falling to the floor.
11. Using caution, remove the three strut tower nuts. You should be able to use one hand to hold the strut and the other hand to remove the nuts. Fully remove the strut assembly.

Installing the Strut Assembly - Driver Side
1. The camber plate was shipped with nuts already installed, you may not use these, you may reuse the original nuts. Since the new strut is so much shorter than the old one, it will be much easier to thread the strut into the steering knuckle. Make sure you line up the dimple on the strut with the slot on the steering knuckle. Push it down as far as you can by hand.
2. Using your floor jack, raise the whole assembly and guide the three bolts up through the strut mounting point in the fender. At this point, you're just trying to get the strut seated in the steering knuckle.
3. Once fully seated, install the bracket and tighten the 18 mm pinch bolt to 60 foot-pounds.
4. Now, feed the three bolts up through the mounting holes in the fender well. Please note: the camber plate has an arrow indicator, this should be positioned towards the frontmost mounting hole. On the driver side, it will be front and towards the outside of the fender.
5. Hand tighten the three strut mounting nuts.
6. For now, leave the sway bar end link disconnected. Since the new strut is so much shorter than the original, and you have not worked on the passenger side yet, you will not be able to align the bolt with the mounting hole.

Removal of Passenger Side Strut Assembly
1. Using two 10 mm wrenches, disconnect the xenon headlamp sensor arm.
2. Using a 16mm deep well socket, and a 16mm open-end wrench, remove the sway bar and end link from the strut assembly. You must use the open and wrench to hold the bolt from behind.
3. Using your floor jack, support the control arm so that it will not drop when you remove the strut. Using your bungee cord, hook one side to the control arm and the other side to the sway bar to prevent the assembly from tilting outwords.
4. Remove the brake line and other wires from the bracket.
5. Remove the 18 mm pinch bolt and bracket.
6. Using a 13 mm socket, loosen the 3 nuts on the strut tower as much as possible without taking them off, or remove them and put them back on one full thread.
7. Now, carefully lower the floor jack and watch the strut come out of the steering knuckle. You will have to jimmy things around to get it most of the way out.
8. Now go back to the top and tighten the 3 strut tower nuts.
9. Return to the wheel well and remove the strut from the steering knuckle completely. The strut tower nuts will prevent it from falling to the floor.
10. Using caution, remove the three strut tower nuts. You should be able to use one hand to hold the strut and the other hand to remove the nuts. Fully remove the strut assembly.


Installing the Strut Assembly - Passenger Side
1. Thread the strut into the steering knuckle. Make sure you line up the dimple on the strut with the slot on the steering knuckle. Push it down as far as you can by hand.
2. Using your floor jack, raise the whole assembly and guide the three bolts up through the strut mounting point in the fender. At this point, you're just trying to get the strut seated in the steering knuckle.
3. Once fully seated, install the bracket and bolt and tighten the 18 mm pinch bolt to 60 foot-pounds.
4. Now, feed the three bolts up through the mounting holes in the fender well. Please note: the camber plate has an arrow indicator, this should be positioned towards the frontmost mounting hole. On the passenger side, it will be front and towards the outside of the fender.
5. Hand tighten the three strut mounting nuts.
6. Reconnect the xenon headlamp sensor arm.
7. Reconnect the sway bar end link. Return to the driver side and reconnect the sway bar end link there as well. Tighten both to 44 foot-pounds.

Finishing Up
1. Reinstall the brake lines and wiring into the bracket on both sides.
2. Reinstall both front wheels.
3. Position the camber plate/shock assembly at the angle desired. I went fairly modest with this setting to start. Be certain that both sides are set relatively the same. Now torque the strut mounting nuts to 18 foot-pounds.
4. Lower the car to the ground.
5. Retorque all lug bolts to 88 foot-pounds.
6. Adjust the shocks. I set my fronts to one full turn from soft, and rears one half turn from soft.


Next Steps
In order to take full advantage of your new suspension, you must have a professional alignment and corner weighting done. But first, you must make sure you have your ride height adjusted as close to perfect as possible. And by perfect, I mean the way you want it.

Drive the car around a bit to settle the suspension. Return to your garage and measure from the center of the wheel to the edge of the fender. Initially, the passenger side rear of my car was approximately 13 inches, and the driver side was approximately 13.25 inches. The front height for both sides was measured at 12 5/8 inches. I think this may be a little too low, but I'm going to try it out for a couple of days and see what I think.

First Impressions
All I can say is wow! I sprung for the ZHP package on my car for many reasons, one being the suspension. However, after taking some advanced driving classes and learning more about car control I decided I needed to move up in the suspension department. The one major flaw of the stock suspension is the lack of negative camber upfront. With the TC Kline suspension, the car is more planted, rides better, turn-in is much more crisp, and there is far less body roll. My first run up my favorite twisty road I could barely see over my fat cheeks and my ear to ear grin. Turn into a corner, give it some gas, turn some more, more gas, she just sticks and keeps on turning!

I have not had the alignment and corner weighting done yet, and I do notice that the car has more oversteer now. during my first test drive, I got a little go peddle happy and felt the tale start to come out on me a little bit. Once it's all dialed in, I may end up having to mess with the front sway bar to reduce the oversteer. Note, from the factory the car has a considerable amount of understeer. The UUC swaybarbarians did a fantastic job of dialing that out, but now I think I may have to stiffen up the front bar some more.

Before


After
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Last edited by KrisL; 03-16-2007 at 09:46 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-15-2007, 06:13 PM
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jvr826 jvr826 is offline
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Rear suspension pics...

Original vs TC Kline Springs


Original vs Koni Shock


Mounting point for rear spring, height adjusting collar


All done
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:17 PM
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jvr826 jvr826 is offline
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Front Suspension Pics

Xenon sensor arm


Old vs New




Pure Sex!
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:33 PM
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BlackChrome BlackChrome is offline
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Congrats! Will we get to see some pics with the Koseis? Any reason that you didn't go with DA?
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Old 03-15-2007, 08:16 PM
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jvr826 jvr826 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackChrome View Post
Congrats! Will we get to see some pics with the Koseis? Any reason that you didn't go with DA?
Thanks man! There will be plenty of opportunity to have pictures with the Koseis once I get to the track again.

I chose single adjustable because of the price and the fact that it seemed easier to dial in. The dual adjustable was about $700 more. That's a weekend at the track or set of rear tires.

BTW, I wanted to ask about your ride height. Can you take measurements and post here?
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Last edited by jvr826; 03-15-2007 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 03-16-2007, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jvr826 View Post
Thanks man! There will be plenty of opportunity to have pictures with the Koseis once I get to the track again.

I chose single adjustable because of the price and the fact that it seemed easier to dial in. The dual adjustable was about $700 more. That's a weekend at the track or set of rear tires.
Can't wait for the pics with Koseis!

If I didn't go with the PSS9, I'd have gone with the TCK SA as well. Good choice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jvr826 View Post
BTW, I wanted to ask about your ride height. Can you take measurements and post here?
Here you go. Excuse my dirty car and wheels. One more week and the SSRs will be back on.

I measured from the middle of the wheel to the highest point of the fender lip (so tire size shouldn't be a factor), as shown in the first pic. 2nd pic is the front wheel and the last pic is the rear.

Note: the measurements were measured on the driver side. My car is corner balanced but I didn't measure the passenger side. Not sure if that mattered...
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Old 03-16-2007, 09:07 PM
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Awesome write up jvr! Registration for the first autocross of the season just opened up - come out and see if you can beat me!
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Old 03-16-2007, 09:13 PM
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I second the awesome write up. The car looks great.

Watch the loud pedal if you drive 17, the CHP are out in force (don't ask me how I know )
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:31 AM
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Thanks for the cudos, and the measurements Blackchrome. I talked with Erik again, as a starting point pre-corner balance he suggested 13" on the front, 12.5 on the rear. The fronts are easy, the rears are a PITA cuz I have to drop the sway bar again.

So, for those following along, I started with 14 turns from bottom on the front and that gave me about 12.5" of ride height. Another 6 turns got me 13" of ride height.

On the rears, I started with 8 turns from bottom. I think 4 turns up with a full tank of gas is going to yield me the suggested 12.5 height. I think the full tank is an important thing to consider so that you set the height for the worst case scenario.

My appointment for alignment and corner balance is next Friday. I'll post final numbers then.

KrisL, no chance I can beat u at Auto-X. Maybe I'll try it out one of these weekends. I'm seriously jonsing for a track day though!

///M3lissa, I have noticed an increased presence of cops locally. They have broken their pattern, perhaps going for the quota early in the month instead of later?
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:45 AM
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KrisL, no chance I can beat u at Auto-X. Maybe I'll try it out one of these weekends. I'm seriously jonsing for a track day though!
I'm really not all that fast, considering. AleksT and ffej are faster than I am. One of the other guys who had never driven my car before jumped in it for a fun-run at the end of the day and beat my best time .
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Old 03-17-2007, 12:18 PM
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The full tank of gas helped. Now I have 12.5" on the right rear side with eight turns, and with six turns I have 12.5" on the left side.
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:46 AM
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Jeff,

Outstanding write-up! Thanks for such an excellent contribution to the board. I look forward to your future feedback on how you like the ride/handling of this TC Kline setup. I consdier the stock ZHP suspension to have not quite dialed in damping at moderate to high shock velocities (i.e. moderate frequency but large amplitude bump inputs) where it seems to be over-damped on compression (at least that is the way it feels to me). Of course, mine is a sedan also. I wouldn't doubt if the stiffer springs coupled with dialed-in damping might even ride better than stock.


KrisL,

What class do you run in autox? STX? My daughter and I co-drive the ZHP in D Stock, but I've considered doing the suspension on it too; however, that will pop the car into street prepared class, or we can run non-R-comp tires and run STX.

Chuck
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:49 AM
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KrisL,

What class do you run in autox? STX? My daughter and I co-drive the ZHP in D Stock, but I've considered doing the suspension on it too; however, that will pop the car into street prepared class, or we can run non-R-comp tires and run STX.

Chuck

I run in A Class . I only autocross with the BMW CCA (I'm our chapter's autox coordinator) and we have our own classification system. I've got Ground Control coilovers with 450/550 spring rates.
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Old 03-24-2007, 02:16 PM
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I had the alignment and corner weighting done yesterday at TC Designs in Milpitas. Joe did a very careful job of making the adjustments, all by hand! Here's where the numbers ended up...

Corner Weights
FL: 888
FR: 880
RL: 935
RR: 937

For those who don't know what this does, I didn't, they adjust the springs so that the cross corner total weight is near equal.

Ride Height
FL: 12 5/8"
FR: 13"
RL: 12 1/4"
RR: 12 1/2"

Alignment
-2.5 degrees camber up front with a 3/16" toe run out. I don't remember where he set the rear camber, but there is 0 toe back there. The -2.5 camber up front is pretty much the minimum. Joe suggested this setting for a dual purpose car and it should yield decent tire wear with improved handling.

I didn't have a chance to thrash the car in the corners on my way home last night due to a serious Johny Law presence on Bear Creek Road. I've never seen so many cruisers in the 12.5 mile drive, ever - I think I counted about 10 within the 20 minute drive.

But, the car tracks arrow straight now. Prior, with the stock suspension, it pulled right a bit. The ride quality is definitely better than stock. In my non-technical description, it's less bouncy on dips and undulations in the road surface. It settles quicker and it is definitely much more planted in the corners.

I have a track day coming up on April 9th and between now and then I'll do more driving to see what adjustments may be needed. I still think I'm going to need a little more front bar stiffness to dial out the oversteer, only a spirited drive will tell.
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Old 04-05-2007, 09:42 AM
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Update on Settings

If you have been following this thread, I want to provide some updates on my installation and settings.

Installation
Above you'll see pictures of the front strut assembly including the camber plates. There was a mistake made when my parts were shipped to me, what you see above is an E36 camber plate installed on an E46 strut. The way to tell by looking at this picture, is that the arrow pointer that indicates camber is perfectly aligned with one of the bolts. When the E36 camber plate is installed on the E46, the caster is all messed up and causes handling issues best described as "twitchy" and very sensitive to steering input.

To identify the E46 camber plate, when installed properly the camber indicator arrow will point directly back towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the sides. The E36 plate will have this arrow point towards the opposite corner of the vehicle, not perfectly straight towards the back as it should be.

The problem with these camber plates is they come from the manufacturer without any part numbers or distinguishing markings, and it's very easy to mistake one for the other.

Alignment Specs
Since I had to pull the front end apart again to replace the camber plates, I also had to have the alignment redone. The settings I quoted above are wrong. DO NOT USE THEM!

Here is what I ended up with...

Camber: -2.5 up front, -2.0 rear

Toe: 1/32" total toe out up front, 3/16" total toe in out back

Dampers: -1 turn from full stiff up front, -1.5 turns from a full stiff out back



With the proper camber plates and everything dialed in, the car now feels like it has 395mm tires up front. The cornering is just plain amazing. I still have a slight hint of oversteer that I am going to dial out by adding some stiffness to the front sway bar. I'm going to experiment with this a little bit with my track tires on since they are a non-staggered set up. I may find out that I need one setting for the street, and one setting for the track.
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Old 04-05-2007, 10:53 AM
CSBM5 CSBM5 is offline
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Thanks for the update Jeff. Glad to hear you got the issue sorted out with the camber plates.

Off topic: on my E46, I just installed a 27mm front bar (all that stock class rules allow for SCCA D-stock autocross), and had the alignment set to 0 toe up front, camber is max'd at -1.2 degrees (pins removed). The rear camber was set to -1.5 and total toe of 1/8". With the staggered rims (SSR 8" and 8.5") required for autox but running 265/35-18 tires all around (Dunlop SSR R-comps), the car handles so much better than before w/o the front bar. I pax'd 6th overall this past weekend, and these Dunlops are 5 years old with numerous HPDE and autox runs on them (I took them off the M5 track wheels since I got some new NT-01s for it). I can't wait to see how the car does with Hoosier A6s I have waiting.

I'm amazed that there is enough room for these 265s since they are as wide as a typical 275/35 non-R-comp tire, but so far, there is no rubbing at all.

Chuck
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:35 PM
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Will we get to see some pics with the Koseis?
Here you go! Photos copyright Dito Milian of gotbluemilk.com.

Today, turn two Laguna Seca. The whole day was like



This is a really great shot. I think a little more negative camber up front would help keep that outside tire more flat on the pavement.

Compared to this one (Thunderhill November 2006 - Turn 10) you can see the new suspension keeps the car quite flat and poised. Not quite the same kind of corner, but speeds are probably similar.



I did learn one thing, 500# springs on the rear of an E46 isn't quite enough. I'm probably going to be swapping them out for 500# front 600# rear. I had a little rubbing on the right rear tire and I've hit the bump stops on rough roads with a full tank of fuel.
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Old 04-22-2007, 02:04 PM
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Stiffer Is Better!

Hopefully this is the last installment of my suspension upgrade saga. I just finished swapping out the 450/500 springs for 500/600. It just keeps getting better!

I left the ride height the same up front, raised the rear up 1/4 inch. The 600 pound springs in back handle a full tank of gas and any surface dips perfectly now. There is much less bounce over all, even less body roll in the corners, and the ride overall I think is better than before too. It's taught, but not jarring.

I left the dampers on the same settings too, -1 from full stiff up front, -1.5 from full stiff out back. I might play around with this a little to see I can soften them up a little and still get a good set in the corners.

Of course, another corner weighting will be needed and a check of the alignment, but right now the car feels really good.
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Old 04-23-2007, 09:28 PM
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600!? For just in-town driving, does it ride much stiffer than 500?

Once again, love those pics, Jeff! Car is looking great!
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:08 AM
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600!? For just in-town driving, does it ride much stiffer than 500?

Once again, love those pics, Jeff! Car is looking great!
It is a firm ride, much less bounce than before. Small surface imperfections are felt, large ones are no longer jarring and don't upset the car. It definitely doesn't float over anything, but it never did, even with stock suspension. I recall that suspension having a lot of bounce, as if there wasn't enough dampening.

I did notice when I took out the 450/500 springs that there was evidence of bottoming out on both rears and the right front. It was obvious from scratches on the finish that the springs had been compressed to their maximum. This did not happen "all the time" but there is one road I frequent that was causing this.

These springs are much shorter than the stock springs and so are the dampers, so there's much less travel in this suspension, so greater fluctuations in the road surface will stress it more.

I know KrisL has 450/550 on his car and hasn't experienced issues that I know of. I think it really depends on where you drive. I know he has some pretty tight and twisty tertiary roads near him, but I don't know if speeds of 45-50 are possible. It is this situation on my road that induced the bottoming.

I love how the car feels. It's tight, taught, super responsive with even better turn in than before. I have another road that I can cook along very fast on, there are some tight corners with very bumpy pavement, the car sticks and holds it's line around these with no bump steer at all.

One thing I forgot to mention, if you look at the pics above you'll see the rear height adjuster is metal to metal. When I had things apart this time I tried the upper spring pad (#18 on the diagram) and it will fit as a lower spring pad with this aftermarket suspension. The stock lower spring pad won't work with theses springs at all. I'm going to order a pair of these and next time I've got the car up on stands I'll slip them in there. It just bugs me to have metal on metal back there.

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Old 04-24-2007, 07:13 AM
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Yep, no bottoming out with 450/550 here... we were certainly at those speeds on the back side of Hamilton...
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:24 AM
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Yep, no bottoming out with 450/550 here... we were certainly at those speeds on the back side of Hamilton...
That's true, we were. Bear Creek Rd has some pretty bad bumps on my trip from home to 17, and one corner in particular is where I'd bottom on the front right consistently.

I suppose I could have asked Santa Cruz County to fix it instead. They probably are not repaving this section to keep people from going even faster than they already do. If they do repave, they better hire corner workers and dish out flags.
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:13 PM
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Great review/DIY!!
Thanks!

I just ordered mine!
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:01 PM
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:16 PM
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Holy thread revival batman!
yup, thats what happens when you search.
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