Please help me guys

Something is seriously wrong w/ my car again, and it's not the MAF, CPS or the cats since these parts have been replaced. It's WAY down on power when i try to give it full throttle.....especially in the higher RPM's, it falls on it's face. I've been getting misfire codes on all 8 cylinders, it bucks and stumbles, dies at idle, and the car gets worse the warmer it gets. Some have suggested bad gas, so i'm gonna drain it and install a new filter. Any other ideas? :shifty

misfiring cylinders is caused by cheap gas fuel lines,fuel pump,fuel filter is clogged or do a tune up and get new fuel injectors

Originally Posted by 98740il

misfiring cylinders is caused by cheap gas fuel lines,fuel pump,fuel filter is clogged or do a tune up and get new fuel injectors

Well the filter was already changed months ago, 41k on the new motor which came w/ plugs and gaskets. I'm at a loss, i'm getting so frustrated w/ the timing of this that I can't think straight

Originally Posted by m5james

Well the filter was already changed months ago, 41k on the new motor which came w/ plugs and gaskets. I'm at a loss, i'm getting so frustrated w/ the timing of this that I can't think straight

check all fuel injectors.have u had the codes read in the check control module

Originally Posted by 98740il

check all fuel injectors.have u had the codes read in the check control module

How do I check the injectors, you mean like take them out and have them metered and flow tested? As i stated above, i have checked the codes, and got 16 of them, all relating to random misfires.

oh ok.yep u pull them out make shure there not clogged and stuff reinsert them plug'em in and if it stills does the same thing best thing to do is to the bmw shop

I believe there is a re-call for that engine for "pitted" cylinders due to the factory installed anti-freeze. You may want to check.

well I disconnected and drained the fuel from the tank, replaced the filter, and then poured in a few gallons of 101 unleaded racing gas. After the car finished priming it sounded great, idled good, and didn't die when I blipped the throttle. I started removing tools around the car, backed off the ramp, drove away....and it felt

K, so here is the latest news:

In the past week i have installed new spark plugs, the drivers side (bank 2) were so dirty and black that even the white center electrode was sooted up. The passengers side (bank 1) wasn't nearly as bad, but some were still pretty black.....meaning it's running way to rich? I've drained and replaced the fuel and installed a new filter. Cleaned the MAF, ICV, and IATS. Anyways, started the car, and actually for about 2 minutes it ran like normal, so i started moving tools and rolled the car off the jack. Not more than 50 feet....it feel on its face again

Car was left at Strictly BMW overnight and they looked at it this morning. Well they called me at 8am to tell me they couldn't even get the car to start, i was like....um, duh! Apparently it wouldn't even turn over, allow a jumpstart, anything. So i got there to find out nothing has power, forcing me to manually turn the key and lift the handle at the same time to make the door unlock. I was gonna open the hood to try and jumpstart the car, to see that the hood release handle was broken completely off and sitting on the floor!!! Walked inside, spoke to Brian, of which he knew nothing about this even happening.....this started my day and truely changed my mood. So anyways, Brian gets the hood open, I open the trunk, and since they couldn't jumpstart the car, i assumed something wasn't connected at the battery since it needs to be a complete circuit for it to be jumped. After removing and reattaching the connections on the battery, were in business.

7 hours and about $100 later, they haven't told me much more than what I already knew, with a few exceptions:

* Voltage won't go above 12.5 volts, and since I have a new alternator, I can only assume the battery is really not going above that amount since it dies after sitting any longer than 2 days.
* DME says the bank 2 (read above) is running so rich that the computer can't adjust enough to lean it back out.

The shop wants to run more tests totalling $750, which includes:

* Compression/leakdown test ($450)
* Smoke test for leaks ($100)
* Fuel pressure test ($100)
* Probe the injectors to see if their stuck open

I'll be almost a grand into this, and still nothing to ensure that I'll have a running car. I'm hoping you guys can give some moree recommendations since I'm gonna go try a few more things tonight after getting some ideas from a BMW tech friend of mine Andy from www.euromelee.com and www.diffsonline.com. His suggestions to check the coil packs are the old school way of pulling the packs and getting the spark to ground out on the car somewhere. Another one, which i think is a great one that makes sense, is to check the fuel pressure regulator. I'm supposed to start the car, pull the regulator line, and if it's full of fuel, then i'll know the rubber diaphragm is shot....hence running rich as hell.

Any other ideas guys? The shop can't do anymore work till Monday, so throw some stuff at me.

well u did a engine swap rite well i would be on bavarian auto a$$ about that engine problem

The motor itself @ this point seems fine, but if push comes to shove and I actually do a compression/leakdown test that fails, then i'll surely be on the phone w/ Bav Engine.

yea i would too.but another question why did u put 101 octane in a 93 octane engine bmw engine at that not saying ure stupid but that probably screwed the whole engine up.is that a drag car?lmao

LMAO....are you serious bro? Why would putting a higher octane fuel into a car ruin it at all? Granted, it might be a waste of gas if anything, but by no means would it ever hurt a car. I've run it in both my bike and M5, and it made dramatic differences with the power. I'd never gotten below 14's in the quarter on my M5 till the same day I left the track, got some 101, and went back for another run. Since my motor has been built up internally, it should do nothing but help it run better. After not only reading from the Bav Engine website that I shouldn't run 87 octane, then ACCIDENTALLY one time doing so about a year ago, i realized what they meant about what could happen when running lower octane......so it only made sense to run a higher octane, especially since i'm having idle and running issues.