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General BMW
Use this forum to talk about general BMW news/stories and to chat with fellow enthusiasts about the direction that BMW is going in for their cars and/or motorcycles!

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  #26  
Old 09-30-2007, 07:38 PM
Young K Young K is offline
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not "montago"... I meant monaco (the dark blue)
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  #27  
Old 09-30-2007, 07:51 PM
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Best to post over on the E9x forum.
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  #28  
Old 10-01-2007, 02:07 PM
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Bob Clevenger Bob Clevenger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Young K View Post
Great Post!
I'm new to the forum. I feel like I made a HUGE mistake. I just ordered a 328i - montago/saddle bag/step/premium/cold weather and in an effort to save a few dollars, I opted out of the sport package. I know it is only a G, but I didn't want to have to get a second set of tires and swap them out every season.

Did I just 'F' the car up before I even got it?
No.
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2007, 12:11 PM
Amusthave Amusthave is offline
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Beautiful

This is just what I was looking for. thanx.
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  #30  
Old 10-21-2007, 02:22 PM
Jourous Jourous is offline
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Another thing to make sure of especially with a cpo vehicle is to make sure that if it was an EU registered vehicle that it is registered with BMWNA. Well that is if you plan on using it in North America. If you are purchasing your vehicle overseas and shipping it to North America make sure that the vehicle has been re registered as a BMWNA vehicle. Otherwise your BMW center may not be able to find your warranty information.
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  #31  
Old 10-27-2007, 03:46 AM
shadow 2 shadow 2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woozhp View Post
I certainly think it is. Serious enough to cancel my order for an '08 coupe! Dipsticks always tell the truth. Not only can you check your oil level with a dipstick, but you can also visually check it's condition. I want a new BMW, but I'm not ready to encourage some bastard beancounter in Munich.
Geez. Get a Kia, I'm sure its got the dipstick you must have.
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  #32  
Old 10-27-2007, 06:42 AM
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Hogie Hogie is offline
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Thanks

Thanks KrisL, been wanting to join for some time. I signed up today, used you as a reference.
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  #33  
Old 11-01-2007, 02:33 PM
TMQ TMQ is offline
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I wish I read this last year... the rebate is an awesome deal.

regarding independent BMW shops, well, I heard that the one near us isn't that great, due to the presence of too many rich Microsoft employees...
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  #34  
Old 11-16-2007, 10:41 AM
TED13B TED13B is offline
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I think you need to double check your independent's labor rate. The dealership I work for has a labor rate of $115/hour. I checked three local independents, and they were $80-$90 per hour, not half the dealer rate! Also, only 1 advertised loaner cars, the others offered to drive you to the local car rental office.
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  #35  
Old 11-16-2007, 10:44 AM
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KrisL KrisL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TED13B View Post
I think you need to double check your independent's labor rate. The dealership I work for has a labor rate of $115/hour. I checked three local independents, and they were $80-$90 per hour, not half the dealer rate! Also, only 1 advertised loaner cars, the others offered to drive you to the local car rental office.
Rather than asking the labor rate, get quotes for the cost to perform a specific service, like Inspection II. My local independent is confirmed less than half of the dealer.
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  #36  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:43 AM
Tom Moore Tom Moore is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Top 10 tips

I shoulda come here BEFORE buying my 2001 330Ci convertible! But it's never too late to learn. A couple of proviso's:

1. I'm not an expert but my impression is that this is mainly mythology: that is, good quality natural petroleum oil will do no damage if it is replaced every 3-5k miles. Because BMW takes responsibility for this during the early life of the car, they don't want you in their shop more often than necessary, and the cost of premium oil is more than compensated by the extended service interval (>15000 miles; you can find the method for resetting the interval tracker in the wiki here). As for gasoline, I don't believe one needs to use higher octane than it takes to prevent "pinging" with a high load at low RPM. Please explain if there are other factors to be considered here, such as additive effects on seals or some such. A rule without a reason is my definition of "mythology".
6. Brakes: it's worth mentioning that the soft stock brake pads (which cause weekly soiling of our fancy wheels) can be replaced with other materials that don't shed so much dust but may not be as responsive. Anyone have experience with this?
7. The wide rims and low profile tires (some call them "rubber band tires") are prone to pothole damage, especially if underinflated. My car came with the lumpiest wheels I ever felt and I had to replace all four of them to get it to smooth out and satisfy my fantasy of what a bimmer should feel like.

The tips about independent mechanics, manuals, and CCA are just wonderful! Thanks so much for this.

Tom Moore
Crofton MD
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  #37  
Old 11-17-2007, 12:33 PM
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KrisL KrisL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Moore View Post
I shoulda come here BEFORE buying my 2001 330Ci convertible! But it's never too late to learn. A couple of proviso's:

1. I'm not an expert but my impression is that this is mainly mythology: that is, good quality natural petroleum oil will do no damage if it is replaced every 3-5k miles. Because BMW takes responsibility for this during the early life of the car, they don't want you in their shop more often than necessary, and the cost of premium oil is more than compensated by the extended service interval (>15000 miles; you can find the method for resetting the interval tracker in the wiki here). As for gasoline, I don't believe one needs to use higher octane than it takes to prevent "pinging" with a high load at low RPM. Please explain if there are other factors to be considered here, such as additive effects on seals or some such. A rule without a reason is my definition of "mythology".
6. Brakes: it's worth mentioning that the soft stock brake pads (which cause weekly soiling of our fancy wheels) can be replaced with other materials that don't shed so much dust but may not be as responsive. Anyone have experience with this?
7. The wide rims and low profile tires (some call them "rubber band tires") are prone to pothole damage, especially if underinflated. My car came with the lumpiest wheels I ever felt and I had to replace all four of them to get it to smooth out and satisfy my fantasy of what a bimmer should feel like.

The tips about independent mechanics, manuals, and CCA are just wonderful! Thanks so much for this.

Tom Moore
Crofton MD
Some comments:
1) re: fuel: You won't hear your BMW ping. The knock sensor will retard the timing well before you'll even hear anything. You'll get worse gas mileage and less power on 87 or 89 octane, offsetting the cost premium of premium fuel.
6) Axxis deluxe pads are nearly dustless; however, you lose a LOT of brake feel.
7) I run 38psi all around.
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  #38  
Old 11-17-2007, 01:20 PM
Tom Moore Tom Moore is offline
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Thumbs up Re: some comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisL View Post
Some comments:
1) re: fuel: You won't hear your BMW ping. The knock sensor will retard the timing well before you'll even hear anything. You'll get worse gas mileage and less power on 87 or 89 octane, offsetting the cost premium of premium fuel.
6) Axxis deluxe pads are nearly dustless; however, you lose a LOT of brake feel.
7) I run 38psi all around.
Thanks much for the comments. Maybe if I get a shop manual I will learn more about things like automatic knock sensing and timing!?

I really love those brakes as they are, but hate cleaning the wheels. Perhaps I can find someone with the hard pads and try them out before mine soft ones are gone...

Best regards,
Tom
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  #39  
Old 12-08-2007, 07:28 PM
chuna chuna is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woozhp View Post
I certainly think it is. Serious enough to cancel my order for an '08 coupe! Dipsticks always tell the truth. Not only can you check your oil level with a dipstick, but you can also visually check it's condition. I want a new BMW, but I'm not ready to encourage some bastard beancounter in Munich.
You must be old school. If the current day Aircrafts thought like you we would have planes taking 3 hrs to get from LA to San Fran.

This is the modern age. Get used to Electronics.
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  #40  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:02 AM
cozia83 cozia83 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayW View Post
new rims and lowering springs to a decked out inside it will be around 2000 bucks.i know its a stupid question but, is it worth it?
Ummm...speaking from a woman's perspective, as well as a car enthusiast's, car mods are tacky and go against the spirit of engineering and design that I so highly respect BMW for. Please don't "pimp" your car!
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  #41  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:29 AM
beemer540ia beemer540ia is offline
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Dont Forget to tell new BMW shoppers that your BMW can catch fire!

I recently experienced my BMW 540i catching on fire due to a faulty or should I say defective electro mecanical thermostat which has caused a fire and now damaged about $4,000.00 in repairs. Neither BMW or my insurance company will pay for any of this damage and BMW knows of this problem happening on other BMW's and last week I was called by the US DOT (Department of Transportation) who is investigating this incident and others like it.

Let's be honest folks, we need to tell everyone out there looking to buy a BMW to air on caution. We need to get BMW to fix this poor design so it will stop burning our BMW's and future buyers. I have been told this has occured on other BMW's but BMW seems to be passing the buck on the buyer (me and others) to pay for all the damages caused by this faulty part.

I am hoping BMW takes notice and reads this so that I can get my car fixed. It was on fire Dec 11th and been sitting in the back of a BMW dealer ever since.
Ken
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  #42  
Old 12-26-2007, 08:37 AM
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KrisL KrisL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer540ia View Post
I recently experienced my BMW 540i catching on fire due to a faulty or should I say defective electro mecanical thermostat which has caused a fire and now damaged about $4,000.00 in repairs. Neither BMW or my insurance company will pay for any of this damage and BMW knows of this problem happening on other BMW's and last week I was called by the US DOT (Department of Transportation) who is investigating this incident and others like it.

Let's be honest folks, we need to tell everyone out there looking to buy a BMW to air on caution. We need to get BMW to fix this poor design so it will stop burning our BMW's and future buyers. I have been told this has occured on other BMW's but BMW seems to be passing the buck on the buyer (me and others) to pay for all the damages caused by this faulty part.

I am hoping BMW takes notice and reads this so that I can get my car fixed. It was on fire Dec 11th and been sitting in the back of a BMW dealer ever since.
Ken
Any car can catch fire.

It's a bummer that your car caught fire, but I have not seen any pattern of others here on the forum reporting the same. Sounds like an isolated and very rare incident.
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  #43  
Old 01-08-2008, 05:28 PM
2wheels2four 2wheels2four is offline
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RE: Johnny420 Lease vs. buy --
You need to decide if you plan to keep the car longer than 3 years (36 mos is kind of the "sweet spot" on leasing). If you think that you might want to be on to a different model BMW after 3 years (135, 335?) then use SOME of that "substantial down payment" money for "capitalized cost reduction" on the lease. You'll pay less interest over the term of the lease, and you can then get your lease payment where you're comfortable with it. Leasing offers financial protection to the consumer in many ways vs. retail purchase -- for instance, you know the car's value at lease-end the day you sign the lease. You can buy it for that at the end, sell it for more than that and keep the difference between what you sell it for and the residual on the lease that you owe BMWFS (just like selling a car with a loan on it), or you can turn it in and get your next dream-Bimmer. AND, if the car is damaged in an accident during the lease and its market value takes a big hit $$$$, you're not affected as long as the damage is repaired by your insurance company before lease-end and the car is returned without current damage. The residual is what it is. On any high-dollar car, a PROPERLY CONSTRUCTED lease is the way to go. Most BMW Centers are doing the majority of their new-car sales business as leases, not retail purchases. Just make sure you get the right amount of miles up front (don't get into a 10K mile per year lease just because it makes the payment lower if you drive 12 or 15K!!!), and buy tire and wheel protection if you've got a sports package - trust me. If you're driving 20K miles a year or more, then retail purchase will be a better option than a lease unless the lease is on an employer's nickle. Hope this helps. A good client advisor up your way should be able to help you understand the leasing option, and make sure it's done in a way appropriate to your particular situation.
Regards, Diane
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  #44  
Old 01-08-2008, 06:46 PM
Motown328 Motown328 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheels2four View Post
RE: Johnny420 Lease vs. buy --
You need to decide if you plan to keep the car longer than 3 years (36 mos is kind of the "sweet spot" on leasing). If you think that you might want to be on to a different model BMW after 3 years (135, 335?) then use SOME of that "substantial down payment" money for "capitalized cost reduction" on the lease. You'll pay less interest over the term of the lease, and you can then get your lease payment where you're comfortable with it. Leasing offers financial protection to the consumer in many ways vs. retail purchase -- for instance, you know the car's value at lease-end the day you sign the lease. You can buy it for that at the end, sell it for more than that and keep the difference between what you sell it for and the residual on the lease that you owe BMWFS (just like selling a car with a loan on it), or you can turn it in and get your next dream-Bimmer. AND, if the car is damaged in an accident during the lease and its market value takes a big hit $$$$, you're not affected as long as the damage is repaired by your insurance company before lease-end and the car is returned without current damage. The residual is what it is. On any high-dollar car, a PROPERLY CONSTRUCTED lease is the way to go. Most BMW Centers are doing the majority of their new-car sales business as leases, not retail purchases. Just make sure you get the right amount of miles up front (don't get into a 10K mile per year lease just because it makes the payment lower if you drive 12 or 15K!!!), and buy tire and wheel protection if you've got a sports package - trust me. If you're driving 20K miles a year or more, then retail purchase will be a better option than a lease unless the lease is on an employer's nickle. Hope this helps. A good client advisor up your way should be able to help you understand the leasing option, and make sure it's done in a way appropriate to your particular situation.
Regards, Diane

Diane, good post, but surely you know better than to put any money down on a lease. If the car is totaled, as you mentioned, all cap cost reduction is flushed down the toilet. Better to take any cap cost reduction money you have and put it in a savings account and take it out to reduce monthly payments than to risk it all up-front, IMO.
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  #45  
Old 01-08-2008, 06:56 PM
Starab Starab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWREP View Post
You dont always have to use BMW brand oil, they recommend Castrol fully sythetic, but it has to be fully synthetic and the manual will tell you what kind is suitable for grade
Called bmwusa, said castrol, Mobil, and Valvoline are recommended
Mobil now has Mobil-1 extended performance synthetic oil (15000 Miles) and extended performance filter
Valvoline is only one to have synthetic High Mileage oil for cars over 75000 mils.
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  #46  
Old 02-02-2008, 03:45 PM
jesimmons jesimmons is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWREP View Post
You dont always have to use BMW brand oil, they recommend Castrol fully sythetic, but it has to be fully synthetic and the manual will tell you what kind is suitable for grade
I keep reading in various forums that the BMW oil is not truly Synthetic. And I've also read that the BMW oil starts to break down as it approaches the 15K mile change interval.

I have used nothing but Mobil 1 in my last 3 cars and intend to do the same in my new BMW, as well as change oil at 7500 mi - which is what I've been doing for years in my cars. The Mobil 1 0W-40 Synthetic is rated both BMW Long Life-01 and ACEA A3 which BMW specifies.

I found this to be particularly enlightening: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=265292
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Last edited by jesimmons; 02-02-2008 at 03:53 PM.
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  #47  
Old 03-10-2008, 12:07 PM
ukboi ukboi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny420 View Post
I don't know if is the right place for this, but bullet point number two above has me thinking. I'm currently considering a 2008 328i. At this time, I'd rather buy than lease, both because my payments would be much lower (I'd be putting down a substantial down payment) and because I've always purchased cars. The car I'm looking at will have 6 MT, SP, leather and Xenon lights, and that's it.

Is buying a BMW outright a bad idea? Are they really that unreliable?

The fact is I love this car and have coveted Bimmers for years, but a $4-500 lease pymnt is more than I want to take on at this point.

Any input would greatly appreciated.
Absoluely not, I bought my 328i outright last year and plan on keeping it for at least 5 years. My first BMW was CPO 2002 325ci manual which I put 50k in 18 months. The car was faultless and while I had some isssues with the trim around the windows, mechanically it proved reliable I traded it in with 90k to buy my 328i. I was always keen on european cars but have had terrible experiences with some of them, e.g 2 VW Golfs, Fiat Tipo, Fiat Panda, and numerous Ford Escorts. While the Japanesse no doubt make very reliable and durable cars, they can't match the complete satifaction of owning the Benchmark for sports sedans and coupes.
Go buy your BMW and enjoy years of troublefree motoring backed up by one of the best maintance plans in the business.
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  #48  
Old 03-13-2008, 06:07 AM
and28202 and28202 is offline
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I am planning to buy a new BMW.
One of my friends forwarded this link at the right time.
Interesting forum!
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  #49  
Old 03-13-2008, 09:15 AM
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KrisL KrisL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny420 View Post
Is buying a BMW outright a bad idea? Are they really that unreliable?

The fact is I love this car and have coveted Bimmers for years, but a $4-500 lease pymnt is more than I want to take on at this point.

Any input would greatly appreciated.


Bad idea? we can't answer that for you. Really that unreliable? 20% less reliable than average across the whole brand according to Consumer Reports, with the 3-series being the most reliable model and the X5 being the least.

If you can't take on a $400-500 lease payment, then it sounds like any other discussion is moot.
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  #50  
Old 03-13-2008, 12:32 PM
robdokwon robdokwon is offline
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Your top ten list is perfect. I fully agree with all your points. I strongly suggest that all prospective BMW owners keep this list handy.
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