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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-01-2007, 06:28 PM
mekaneck mekaneck is offline
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Location: Illinois
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 325xi, 2007 X3
installing short shift kit in an XI (325xi)

I'm trying to remove the shifting arm so I can replace the front shift arm bushings in my 325xi.

(I'm trying to remove #1 so that I can replace both #2 bushings in this pic: image)

I've never seen any SSK install instructions specifically for an AWD BMW, so I don't know if I need to remove the transfer case, of if I can get to these by lowering the tranny enough. I've already removed the driveshafts and lowered the tranny somewhat (about an inch), but I'm a bit hesitiant to lower it too much, because I don't know when I might damage something. I attached two pics below of what I can see with the transfer case in the way.

Neither the bentley manual or the UUC SSK install instructions show anything. Has anyone ever done this? I'm going to call UUC's customer service tomorrow, but I have doubts that I'll actually talk to anyone who knows anything.
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2007, 03:32 PM
mekaneck mekaneck is offline
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Location: Illinois
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 325xi, 2007 X3
if no answer for above, anyone have an estimate for how much I can safely lower the tranny? I can't see between the engine + the firewall to know if I'm going to crush anything.
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  #3  
Old 05-29-2007, 06:46 PM
mekaneck mekaneck is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 325xi, 2007 X3
Well, I finally got this finished last weekend, so I figured I'd let everyone know what I went through to get this done.

First of all, this install took an extra two weeks bacuse I also got the reverse & 5th gear locking pins replaced in the transmission. (my shifter was getting stuck in 5th gear). For this fix, see the SIB in posts #755 - #762 on bimmerforums. I took all the junk off my car (exhaust, driveshafts, etc.) so all the stealership had to do was drop the tranny. They still charged me $700 for the fix. I'm not going back to them again.

Here's the basic steps if you want to do this mod on an XI BMW (since instructions are well detailed for all aspects except XI-specifics, I'll only post pictures when relevant). So here goes:

0- You'll need at least two jack stands to keep your car from smashing your head (or a lift if you're rich). You'll also need two small jacks (screw-type scissor jacks, or jacks that come with your car for changing tires). These small jacks are for holding up the exhaust while you unbolt it, and for holding the tranny/engine and the transfer case while you unbolt that. If you don't have enough jacks, DON'T continue! You'll also need an E10 Torx socket, for removing the driveshafts and the transfer case. Other parts you'll need: 4 copper locknuts & 2 gaskets for the exhaust-to-header connection, 3 locknuts for the rear driveshaft-to-flex disc connection. Also, a UUC EVO3 SSK might come in handy too.

1- Remove knob, shifter boot, shifter base trim, foam insulation, and rubber boot from inside the car. This is no different from any other car.

2- Remove the front underbody cover (takes only a couple screws). I did this before jacking up the car so I could use the subframe jack point, which is somewhat covered by the cover.

3- Jack up the car. I used the front crossmember on the suspension subframe (this is only on XI's, RWD cars don't have this front subframe). Be sure to put some jack stands under the car so you don't die. Below circled in blue (ignore the red) is where I jacked the car. You have to remove the engine splash guard before you can see this spot.


4- Remove the exhaust and the heat shields. This really isn't too bad, but put some jacks under the exhaust before you unbolt it all, it's really heavy and akward. This is the same as RWD cars. I used a jack under the rear-most muffler, and one under the front, where the exhaust gets unbolted from the headers.


5- Remove the front driveshaft. I match-marked each end so that I could put it back in the exact same position it came out in. The front driveshaft requires removing 4 M10 torx bolts on each end. I actually couldn't get the one end disconnected from the transfer case, (even though I got the bolts out), so I left it connected to the transfer case.

6- Remove the rear driveshaft. This is the same procedure as RWD cars. I also matchmarked this one, which apparently is more important. Also, the rear wheels were off the ground and the parking brake was set (just following the Bentley manual). When you remove the 3 bolts from the flex disc, try to turn the nuts and hold the bolts still. This is to avoid fatiguing the rubber under the bolt head.

7- Put a jack under the tranny and then unbolt the 4 bolts that holt the transfer case to the car. Below I circled two bolts on one side. If you can't find the two bolts on the other side (where the arrow is pointing), you're not smart enough to finish this install.


8- Put another jack under the transfer case, and then remove the 6 bolts (M10 torx) that hold the transfer case to the transmission. One bolt is on the side of the transfer case facing the front of the car, the other 5 are facing the rear of the car. I removed the one on the front before I put the jack on, because it's hard to get to when the jack is in the way. Below is the lone bolt that faces the front side of the car.


9- Once you remove all the bolts, pull the transfer case away from the tranny (rearward). There are 2 hollow dowel pins that locate the transfer case to the tranny, and you don't want to damage them. You also have to move the transfer case far enough rearward to clear the ouput shaft of the transmission. Keep in mind the transfer case (and tranny) are both sealed. You don't need to worry about losing any fluid here. Below is the tranny removed, with my front driveshaft still attached. (once the transfer case is out, you will have enought room to slide out the driveshaft from the transfer case. It is just splined in)


10- Now that you finally have everything out of the way, you can start to remove the clips from the selector rod. The clips just slide off, but they are a bitch anyway. This is well detailed in other SSK installation instructions. You can then remove the shifter from the inside of the car.


11- You can now remove the clips from the back of the aluminum shifter carrier (one on each side). I don't have good pics of this, but here is the shifter removed from the car, sitting next to some clips. You can just push up a screwdriver into the clips and the will pop up. then just slide them out of the holes in the tranny. Note: The UUC EVO3 shifter DOES NOT come with delrin bushings for the carrier. I didn't get any, so I called to have them overnighted. So the next day I recieved only one, and it was the wrong size (but it was oval, which I needed). So I called again, and talked to somebody smarter, and I was told that they don't make any for the XI cars because it has two bushings, so changing them to tight-tolerance delrin is overkill. The pic below shows the end of the carrier next to the black delrin bushings (which don't fit, and aren't needed). Also you can see the two yellowish clips which came off my car, and two whiter clips that they sent me, which are also the wrong size. Bottom line: use the stuff that came off your car. Don't use any UUC bushings or clips, if they even sent them to you.


12- You should be able to pretty much follow the SSK install instructions from here. Here's me putting the ERK (effort reducing kit) into the aluminum shifter carrier:


13- Carrier re-installed:


14- Install the new shifter from inside the car (keep following the instructions, lube the ball and put the plastic bushings in the ERK cup.


15- From under the car again, start re-attaching everything like it came out. Remember to put a yellow shim/washer on each side of the shifter on the selector rod. This pic shows the shims, but don't forget the aluminum spacers that go on here too (between the yellow shims and the shifter bearing). I didn't get them from UUC, so I had to get them overnighted. I forgot to take a pic of the spacers after I put them on.


16- Once you've got all the shifter linkages together, see if you can shift through all the gears. The shifter may feel a little bit sloppy, but the rubber boot that goes on it really fixes that up nicely.

17- A few tips on putting everything back together:
- When putting the rear driveshaft back on, make sure to preload the center bearing carrier by pushing it forward about a quarter inch before tightening it down with the two nuts.
- Make sure to use new locknuts for the 4 copper locknuts on the exhaust system, and the 3 nuts that connect the driveshaft to the flex disc.
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2003 325xi BlackČ

Last edited by mekaneck; 05-29-2007 at 06:59 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-29-2007, 07:45 PM
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KrisL KrisL is offline
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Thanks mekaneck, I'm going to add this to the wiki.
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2008, 06:18 PM
mekaneck mekaneck is offline
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Location: Illinois
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 156
Mein Auto: 2003 325xi, 2007 X3
Apparently my pictures no longer work, so this is a repeat of the post above, but with pictures included again (this time from a more permanent location). I also slightly modified a few things, but nothing major. Hopefully this helps out the one or two people that are attempting this.

===>>

Well, I finally got this finished last weekend, so I figured I'd let everyone know what I went through to get this done.

First of all, this install took an extra two weeks because I also got the reverse & 5th gear locking pins replaced in the transmission. (my shifter was getting stuck in 5th gear). For this fix, see the SIB in posts #755 - #762 on bimmerforums. I took all the junk off my car (exhaust, driveshafts, etc.) so all the stealership had to do was drop the tranny. They still charged me $700 for the fix. I'm not going back to them again.

Here's the basic steps if you want to do this mod on an XI BMW (since instructions are well detailed for all aspects except XI-specifics, I'll only post pictures when relevant). So here goes:

0- You'll need at least two jack stands to keep your car from smashing your head (or a lift if you're rich). You'll also need two small jacks (screw-type scissor jacks, or jacks that come with your car for changing tires). These small jacks are for holding up the exhaust while you unbolt it, and for holding the tranny/engine and the transfer case while you unbolt that. If you don't have enough jacks, DON'T continue! You'll also need an E10 Torx socket, for removing the driveshafts and the transfer case. Other parts you'll need: 4 copper locknuts & 2 gaskets for the exhaust-to-header connection, 3 locknuts for the rear driveshaft-to-flex disc connection. Also, a UUC EVO3 SSK might come in handy too.

1- Remove knob, shifter boot, shifter base trim, foam insulation, and rubber boot from inside the car. This is no different from any other car.

2- Remove the front underbody cover (takes only a couple screws). I did this before jacking up the car so I could use the subframe jack point, which is somewhat covered by the cover.

3- Jack up the car. I used the front crossmember on the suspension subframe (this is only on XI's, RWD cars don't have this front subframe). Be sure to put some jack stands under the car so you don't die. Below circled in blue (ignore the red) is where I jacked the car. You have to remove the engine splash guard before you can see this spot.


4- Remove the exhaust and the heat shields. This really isn't too bad, but put some jacks under the exhaust before you unbolt it all, it's really heavy and akward. This is the same as RWD cars. I used a jack under the rear-most muffler, and one under the front, where the exhaust gets unbolted from the headers.


5- Remove the front driveshaft. I match-marked each end so that I could put it back in the exact same position it came out in. The front driveshaft requires removing 4 M10 torx bolts on each end. I actually couldn't get the one end disconnected from the transfer case, (even though I got the bolts out), so I left it connected to the transfer case.

6- Remove the rear driveshaft. This is the same procedure as RWD cars. I also matchmarked this one, which apparently is more important. Also, the rear wheels were off the ground and the parking brake was set (just following the Bentley manual). When you remove the 3 bolts from the flex disc, try to turn the nuts and hold the bolts still. This is to avoid fatiguing the rubber under the bolt head.

7- Put a jack under the tranny and then unbolt the 4 bolts that holt the transfer case to the car. Below I circled two bolts on one side. If you can't find the two bolts on the other side (where the arrow is pointing), you're not smart enough to finish this install.


8- Put another jack under the transfer case, and then remove the 6 bolts (M10 torx) that hold the transfer case to the transmission. One bolt is on the side of the transfer case facing the front of the car, the other 5 are facing the rear of the car. I removed the one on the front before I put the jack on, because it's hard to get to when the jack is in the way. Below is the lone bolt that faces the front side of the car.


9- Once you remove all the bolts, pull the transfer case away from the tranny (rearward). There are 2 hollow dowel pins that locate the transfer case to the tranny, and you don't want to damage them. You also have to move the transfer case far enough rearward to clear the output shaft of the transmission. Keep in mind the transfer case (and tranny) are both sealed. You don't need to worry about losing any fluid here. Below is the tranny removed, with my front driveshaft still attached. (once the transfer case is out, you will have enough room to slide out the driveshaft from the transfer case. It is just splined in)


10- Now that you finally have everything out of the way, you can start to remove the clips from the selector rod. The clips just slide off, but they are a bitch anyway. This is well detailed in other SSK installation instructions. You can then remove the shifter from the inside of the car. You need to spin the white bushing about 90°, I opened up some needle nose pliers wide and used the tips of the jaws to spin it. Don't worry about ruining this plastic piece, you don't need to re-use it.


11- You can now remove the clips from the back of the aluminum shifter carrier (one on each side). I don't have good pics of this, but here is the shifter removed from the car, sitting next to some clips. You can just push up a screwdriver into the clips and the will pop up. then just slide them out of the holes in the tranny. Note: The UUC EVO3 shifter DOES NOT come with delrin bushings for the carrier. I didn't get any, so I called to have them overnighted. So the next day I received only one, and it was the wrong size (but it was oval, which I needed). So I called again, and talked to somebody smarter, and I was told that they don't make any for the XI cars because it has two bushings, so changing them to tight-tolerance delrin is overkill. The pic below shows the end of the carrier next to the black delrin bushings (which don't fit, and aren't needed). Also you can see the two yellowish clips which came off my car, and two whiter clips that they sent me, which are also the wrong size. Bottom line: use the stuff that came off your car. Don't use any UUC bushings or clips, if they even sent them to you.


12- You should be able to pretty much follow the SSK install instructions from here. Here's me putting the ERK (effort reducing kit) into the aluminum shifter carrier:


13- Carrier re-installed:


14- Install the new shifter from inside the car (keep following the instructions, lube the ball and put the plastic bushings in the ERK cup.


15- From under the car again, start re-attaching everything like it came out. Remember to put a yellow shim/washer on each side of the shifter on the selector rod. This pic shows the shims, but don't forget the aluminum spacers that go on here too (between the yellow shims and the shifter bearing). UUC forgot to send them originally, so I had to get them overnighted. Here's the pic with everything connected to the end of the selector rod.


16- Once you've got all the shifter linkages together, see if you can shift through all the gears. The shifter may feel a little bit sloppy, but the rubber boot that goes on it really fixes that up nicely.

17- A few tips on putting everything back together:
- When putting the rear driveshaft back on, make sure to preload the center bearing carrier by pushing it forward about a quarter inch before tightening it down with the two nuts.
- Make sure to use new locknuts for the 4 copper locknuts on the exhaust system, and the 3 nuts that connect the driveshaft to the flex disc.

===>>
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  #6  
Old 06-29-2010, 09:03 PM
kejriwalv kejriwalv is offline
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Location: Cincinnati
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2004 330xi 6 speed
wow, great DIY! i wasn't even considering installing an SSK on my xi myself, since I figured there would be too much extra stuff in the way. the SSK is still a ways away, but I might be doing this myself now, thanks.

I know this is from a long time ago, but its amazing what google can find for you on other forums. Thanks man.
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  #7  
Old 08-05-2012, 01:47 PM
Doverby Doverby is offline
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Location: Ypsilanti, MI
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: e46 330xi
And yet...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kejriwalv View Post
wow, great DIY! i wasn't even considering installing an SSK on my xi myself, since I figured there would be too much extra stuff in the way. the SSK is still a ways away, but I might be doing this myself now, thanks.

I know this is from a long time ago, but its amazing what google can find for you on other forums. Thanks man.
2 MORE years later, you've helped ANOTHER xi owner!! Thanks!
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  #8  
Old 02-09-2014, 03:39 PM
3ITs 3ITs is offline
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Location: Detroit
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16
Mein Auto: BMWs
Almost 2 more years... Thanks Google.

Anybody know what is the interchange 5 speed/6 speed, xi to rwd of shifter lever and selector rod? Mine is an early '03 xi 5 speed. Considering BMW OEM kit (seems to be most bang/$.) I find the OE application of part # 25110430355 shows only RWD 6 speed. 6 speed knob, I get it, who cares, when was the last time the valet put the car in 6th gear? Hate to ask. Further feelings xi/rwd?

Anybody?

Ready to take this trip because exhaust and shaft are about to come off for other maintenance. Fingering out it makes a lot of sense to do this at same time.
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  #9  
Old 02-09-2014, 04:57 PM
Fast Bob's Avatar
Fast Bob Fast Bob is offline
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Location: Here, there, everywhere....
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
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Mein Auto: 2004 330Ci ZHP 3 pedals
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ITs View Post
Almost 2 more years... Thanks Google.

Anybody know what is the interchange 5 speed/6 speed, xi to rwd of shifter lever and selector rod? Mine is an early '03 xi 5 speed. Considering BMW OEM kit (seems to be most bang/$.) I find the OE application of part # 25110430355 shows only RWD 6 speed. 6 speed knob, I get it, who cares, when was the last time the valet put the car in 6th gear? Hate to ask. Further feelings xi/rwd?

Anybody?

Ready to take this trip because exhaust and shaft are about to come off for other maintenance. Fingering out it makes a lot of sense to do this at same time.
IIRC, a couple of members used the shift linkage from a Z3 (or maybe Z4 ?) with good results.... try a search on this Forum....
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