Mods and upgrades explained - Very Long!!

Thanks buddy

no worries pete, anytime

great thread for n00bs like me =)

btw NGK's website says they only have iridiumIX for 318ti M44, no such for mine M42, only cheaper BKR6EK plugs, which are, i guess, not much of an improvement over stock. So 1) Why? OE Gap? so iridiums just won't fit or what? 2) what shall i go for instead?

The Iridiums will work mate - BKR6EIX

If your car is listed as using the BKR6EK as standard, the x-reference says you can use the BKR6EIX

Originally Posted by Pirate_copy

Hey

A lot of people on the fest ask what mods are best for their bimmer so i thought i would list the most popular ones and describe why they are good for your bimmer. Will put them in order you should do them too.

These include engine performance mods as well as stability etc

This is just my view but will try to be as accurate as possible. Am sure MANY of you will disagree with some of the things that i say, but that is the beauty of a forum. These are compiled from my experiences as a racing driver, test driver as well as an avid Bimmerfest member

1 - Decent petrol
People often go and spend HUGE amounts of money on enhancements or their cars and then use rubbish fuel. E36's are fitted with 'knock sensors' which will advance and retard your timing to sure different octane fuels. The higher the octane of the fuel, the higher the flash point. You want to make sure that the fuel is being ignited in the cylinder at the right time and not any where else. I recommendV-Power 98 RON or at least the highest octane car fuel you can find in your area (US octane ratings work a little different. Not only will you get more power and a more drivable car, but your engine will be cleaner and you also get better MPG.

The bottom line is that Octane Rating is a measure of how effective a petrol is at resisting engine knock. It tells us nothing about power or fuel economy. Over dosing on octane will only dent your pocket. Nothing more.

There is a misconception in the street-racing world that high octane fuel will make your car go faster or run better. This is simply not true. The octane rating essentially rates the fuel's resistance to knocking.

Knocking or pinging is a sound that an engine makes when the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chambers ignites too early. Although slight knocking or pinging won't damage your engine, loud knocking can cause damage and should not be allowed to continue. The solution is to use a high octane fuel, which is actually more difficult to ignite, despite the misconception that high octane fuel is more powerful. When the fuel is more difficult to burn, early ignition is eliminated, and with it the knocking or pinging.

The octane level required by an engine is determined by its compression ratio: higher-compression engines require higher-octane fuel. For example, a basic sedan generally only requires the standard octane fuel offered at gas stations, while a high-performance sports car or race car may require a high octane fuel. The owner's manual lists information on the type of fuel you should use in your car.

Gas stations typically offer three different octane levels of fuel: regular, mid-grade, and premium. The regular grade generally has the octane level required by most cars, and mid-grade and premium are each a step up. Then, of course, there is the super high octane fuel available at race tracks, which is designed for the extremely high compression ratios that race car engines have. Pretty much all of the fuel grades commercially available have cleaning additives in them, so you needn't choose a high octane fuel with the idea that it will clean your engine better.

In many European countries, and other countries such as Australia, the octane rating used is called the Research Octane Number (RON). These octane ratings reflect how the fuel acts in the lab. In the U. S., however, as well as a few other countries, the octane rating is called (R+M)/2. This number is derived from the average of the RON and the Motor Octane Number (MON). While the first rating is determined by the fuel's performance in the lab, the MON is supposed to reflect how it performs "out in the real world." Therefore, an average of the two numbers should theoretically give the best indication of the fuel's burning characteristics.

Basically, you're wasting your money if you buy high octane fuel. You should start off with the octane level your car's manual calls for; if you still hear knocking or pinging, you might try the next step up. If the problem persists, you'll probably need to have a tune-up or some diagnostic work done. Don't think that putting high octane fuel in your little Toyota will make it run like a race car – it just doesn't work that way.

~ http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-high-octane-fuel.htm

This notion that using the highest available octane rated fuel is a bunch of bunk. You should use the rated fuel for you car... a 328i is rated at 89 octane. Period.

89 octane in the USA maybe, as the ratings are different. Here it is rated at 95

This list was compiled from my own experience and using 97 RON made a difference to my 328i even before it was Superchipped

Thanks for taking the time to comment though

i get 98. If i really wanted to i could get my hands on 100 with 5% ethanol.

Dont do it Dom, your car will cough like a b4stard!!

Finally, ive been waiting for this post for awhile now. ive been looking back in the forums like crazy to find out what mods i should put first and like u mention everyone has there own opinions.. this year i was blessed with a 95 3.25is and i have falling completely in love it. its been 5months since i had it and ive learn to really appreciate this car. i think its because of the amount of time ive spent keeping up with her with the maintance like brake + reverse switches, oil changes, air filters and a new clutch just to get her up to par. but now i think shes ready for something new and i think im going to go with ngk iridium plugs and a new CIA as soon as i get some money. thanks for the post pirate, keep it up!

hey i have a 1996 328i i was wounder how much hp should i be looking for if i put exhaust,sparks plugs, cold air, engine pulleys, and a chip into my car

Hey mate - Welcome to the fest

I recon with that lot you will be easily pushing 230hp.

Dependant on engine condition and the parts you use of course :-)

^What do 328's run stock? 230hp sounds *very* optimistic to me.

Very well done Pirate... Much appreciated

You guys gotta keep in mind, multiple mods **DO NOT** produce a cumulative effect. If an intake/exhaust give you 5hp each, it doesn't mean you'll get 10hp with both.

I know mate

Still say 230nhp though as it's 192bhp figure as stock was when it was heavily restricted.

Will lower my estimate to 225 but that as low as i will go!!!

Originally Posted by Pirate_copy

Dont do it Dom, your car will cough like a b4stard!!

ive used it once. Its called Shell V-power Racing. I didnt notice a difference. Its more for ferrari's ect ect ect

ok thats cool iv started my mission of getting my 96 328i to 240hp i bought m3 bushings, afe cold air intake, and rogue engine pulleys and for my exaust i think ima go with active autowerks but theres one thing i dont know, whats the best softchip out there

Originally Posted by Übel ein

The bottom line is that Octane Rating is a measure of how effective a petrol is at resisting engine knock. It tells us nothing about power or fuel economy. Over dosing on octane will only dent your pocket. Nothing more.

There is a misconception in the street-racing world that high octane fuel will make your car go faster or run better. This is simply not true. The octane rating essentially rates the fuel's resistance to knocking.

Knocking or pinging is a sound that an engine makes when the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chambers ignites too early. Although slight knocking or pinging won't damage your engine, loud knocking can cause damage and should not be allowed to continue. The solution is to use a high octane fuel, which is actually more difficult to ignite, despite the misconception that high octane fuel is more powerful. When the fuel is more difficult to burn, early ignition is eliminated, and with it the knocking or pinging.

The octane level required by an engine is determined by its compression ratio: higher-compression engines require higher-octane fuel. For example, a basic sedan generally only requires the standard octane fuel offered at gas stations, while a high-performance sports car or race car may require a high octane fuel. The owner's manual lists information on the type of fuel you should use in your car.

Gas stations typically offer three different octane levels of fuel: regular, mid-grade, and premium. The regular grade generally has the octane level required by most cars, and mid-grade and premium are each a step up. Then, of course, there is the super high octane fuel available at race tracks, which is designed for the extremely high compression ratios that race car engines have. Pretty much all of the fuel grades commercially available have cleaning additives in them, so you needn't choose a high octane fuel with the idea that it will clean your engine better.

In many European countries, and other countries such as Australia, the octane rating used is called the Research Octane Number (RON). These octane ratings reflect how the fuel acts in the lab. In the U. S., however, as well as a few other countries, the octane rating is called (R+M)/2. This number is derived from the average of the RON and the Motor Octane Number (MON). While the first rating is determined by the fuel's performance in the lab, the MON is supposed to reflect how it performs "out in the real world." Therefore, an average of the two numbers should theoretically give the best indication of the fuel's burning characteristics.

Basically, you're wasting your money if you buy high octane fuel. You should start off with the octane level your car's manual calls for; if you still hear knocking or pinging, you might try the next step up. If the problem persists, you'll probably need to have a tune-up or some diagnostic work done. Don't think that putting high octane fuel in your little Toyota will make it run like a race car – it just doesn't work that way.

~ http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-high-octane-fuel.htm

This notion that using the highest available octane rated fuel is a bunch of bunk. You should use the rated fuel for you car... a 328i is rated at 89 octane. Period.

That's true, but let me clarify that it's only for cars that DID NOT come with knock sensors. Most BMW's have knock sensors, which advances/retards ignition timing based on the octane rating. That really DOES make a difference. While it might not be noticeable (and sometimes it is), it's there, and the result is a couple dozen extra miles on that tank. With the gas prices in the US, it'll lay down at about the same price, but you get a cleaner, smoother running engine. Whoa! UK gas prices are outrageous, so extra miles on the tank help a lot more than cheaper fuel.

When they say 91-octane or higher fuel recommended, they know what they're talking about! It's not rubbish.

i want to make a sleeper whats the quites exhaust out there that also gets the job done

Originally Posted by jays328

ok thats cool iv started my mission of getting my 96 328i to 240hp i bought m3 bushings, afe cold air intake, and rogue engine pulleys and for my exaust i think ima go with active autowerks but theres one thing i dont know, whats the best softchip out there

I will race you to 240bhp mate

boys boys boys, ill race ya to 140bhp :P:P:P

lol

Thanks for the indept explanation.I learned a few pros and cons of Bimmer performance mods.

No worries buddy, welcome to the fest