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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 04-24-2010, 10:31 AM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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Reverse bleeding is always a bad bad and bad idea.
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  #27  
Old 04-24-2010, 04:47 PM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
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why?
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  #28  
Old 04-24-2010, 08:14 PM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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Because reverse bleeding brings contaminated fluid, either from the brake caliper or slave cylinder, upstream into critical components.
If any place that gets contaminated brake fluid, it is always the brake caliper drawing in water, mud etc into the caliper, and slave cylinder for the same reasons.
Do a search on reverse bleeding and you will see it is not recommended. Actually it is discouraged.
Always bleed from above downward.
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  #29  
Old 08-05-2010, 09:00 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Can't remember where I saw the caution (think it was cn90), but what's the reason for -not- pressing the clutch pedal all the way down when bleeding the clutch line?
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  #30  
Old 07-30-2011, 10:57 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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By way of cross reference, there is a healthy discussion today of how exactly to bend the line for the CDV delete over in this thread:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > CDV mod from zeckhausen
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  #31  
Old 11-21-2011, 07:55 AM
SAVAGE39 SAVAGE39 is offline
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i think i just found my next mod thanks guys!!!
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  #32  
Old 11-25-2011, 09:56 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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By way of reference, these nice CDV delete pictures were posted just now over on the E46 side of the house:
- E46 (1999 - 2006) > Got little sucker (CDV) out


Quote:
Originally Posted by jM2.me View Post
Got CDV out today. Took 20 minutes to take it out and 30 minutes to find all tool
End result: much smoother engaging and feels more responsive

Edit: Just noticed it says LUK, same as old flywheel and clutch. Was that a aftermarket CDV?
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  #33  
Old 01-13-2013, 08:56 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, this thread today refers to the CDV delete & explains why:
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMRTN View Post
Haha this is great, Edjack is saying that you do not need a performance clutch on a car that doesn't exceed 200 horsepower. Now if you had a 540 and were doing big performance mods then a "stage 1" clutch would be acceptable.

As Edjack said, stay OEM.

And removing the clutch delay valve doesn't make it killer, it removes the slippage and jerkyness the CDV causes.
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Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #34  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:52 AM
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VinZul VinZul is offline
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thank you

Thank you for this write up.
I just did my diff then the cdv now on to the trans

I wanted to say i know my cdv was never drilled or punched and it has the same size opening as yours.
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  #35  
Old 06-22-2014, 09:34 PM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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Old thread but important to make note on clutch bleeding.

1. I used pressure-cap and 10 psi from air compressor.

2. Somehow I allowed air to enter the clutch hydraulic system. The clutch pedal went to the floor!

3. Make sure the brake reservoir is about 1/2-inch above MAX, so the Clutch fluid partition is filled!

4. To bleed Master Cylinder: hold the clutch pedal fully down for a good 10 sec. to push trapped air into the fill hose (from the reservoir). It will take some time for air bubbles to travel back to the reservoir, so be patient.
- You may have to pull the clutch pedal back up by hand.
- Repeat this process a few times with each time depressing the clutch pedal down for a good 10 sec.

5. Now open the Slave Cylinder bleed port. Just avoid running the REAR partition of the brake reservoir dry!

When done, make sure the reservoir is about 1/4-inch above MAX.
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  #36  
Old 06-23-2014, 09:34 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Must have been good weather as you were busy this weekend replacing fluids!

See also:
- BMW E39 fluid summary printout for your glovebox (1)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #37  
Old 06-23-2014, 10:54 AM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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How to bleed Clutch system

I understand Bentley tells you to remove the slave and push the piston etc. etc., but this is the minimalist approach and works for me.

I took some random photos from the internet and put together a diagram to show you how you can get flat clutch pedal after a bleed.

1. The Clutch fluid partition is very small section on back of the Brake reservoir (RED rectangle). The only way fluid can get there is by filling the reservoir ~ 1/4---> 1/2 inches above MAX.
- Don't spill brake fluid. Best is to place a rag around the filler neck, so any spill is absorbed.

2. DOT4 fluid now travels down the "fill hose" into the Master Cylinder.

3. When you press on the clutch pedal, fluid is pushed down the "high-pressure hose" into the Slave Cylinder.

4. Now if you replace the hydraulic system and start fresh (dry system), don't panic if you have flat clutch pedal:
- Fill the reservoir as mentioned above, making sure the rear partition is full.
- If you have a pressure bleeder (I use 1-man bleeding technique with air compressor set at 10 psi), then set it at 10 psi. If you do not have pressure bleeder, then let it go down by gravity, it is slow but fluid will flow down by gravity!
- Open the 7-mm bleed port and wait until fluid runs out w/o bubbles. W/o pressure bleeder, it may take a few minutes, so be patient!
- Now close the bleed port.

- Air is likely trapped in the top portion of the Master Cylinder: press down on the Clutch Pedal and hold it for a good 10-15 sec. Since the Slave Cylinder is sealed (bleed port closed), air will re-enter the "fill hose" back to reservoir but it is a slow process, this is why you need to hold the clutch pedal down for a good 10-15 sec.

- Don't be surprised if the Clutch Pedal does not go back up. Under normal situation, the Clutch Fork spring pushes the Slave Cylinder back into the MC, pushing the pedal back up.
During this process of bleeding, there is no force pushing the pedal back up, all you care is to get rid of air inside the MC back to the reservoir. So simply pull the pedal back up by hand (after pressing the pedal for a good 10-15 sec). This 10-15 sec time frame allows trapped air to go back up to the reservoir.

- Now if you don't have the pressure bleeder, then you can improvise a bit. Get a short broomstick about 24-26 inches and a rag. Wedge the broomstick between the clutch pedal and the driver seat, use the rag to protect the seat cushion. I placed it against the plastic part, but you can place it against the seat metal frame.

Now, go down the car and open the bleed port for about 1-2 sec, then close it right away. You will hear flush rushing down.

Anyway, the key thing is to understand how the system works and best of all: be patient, you will be able to bleed the system w/o removing the Slave Cylinder!

Now the photo.....


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Last edited by cn90; 06-23-2014 at 10:55 AM.
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  #38  
Old 07-20-2014, 01:13 AM
TheDoctore39 TheDoctore39 is offline
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Smile Just deleted the cdv today, few words of advice

I have a 2001 540i 6 which I deleted the cdv from today. I regret not taking any pictures however I do have a few words of advice for those trying to remove it:
1. Many people buy a modified valve from zeckhausen or a number of other companies which is a complete waste of money. The brake line screws right into the clutch slave, however some manipulation is required. I've read up and down these forums and not once have i read about anyone unbolting the bracket that supports the rubber brake line before the metal one. I unbolted the, i believe, 14 mm nut that also holds on the clutch slave(dont worry the slave is held on my two nuts so as long as you leave the other one alone the slave isn't going anywhere) to the transmission. Once this was unbolted i was able to move the whole clutch line and reposition the line and hand thread it into the slave with little to no bending of the metal brake line itself. So my suggestion to anyone attempting to remove the cdv, is to unbolt this bracket and not worry about having to bend the line or risk cross -threading the slave.
2. Just buy a vacuum bleeder and bleed the clutch this way. You will really save yourself a headache if you take your time. 9 times out of 10 you will introduce air into the system when you crack the line anyways so you are going to have to bleed the clutch.
3. If you are patient and know what you are doing, bleeding the clutch is very easy if you have a vacuum bleeder. However, since the system is so small you have to be extra careful when opening the bleeder in order to create a much slower paced bleed then in comparison with brakes.
4. Goodluck and if you suceed, enjoy no more delayed clutch engagement!
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