Over in the E39 side of the house, we've covered the fluids to clean the engine bays:
Originally Posted by johnnygraphic
Depends on what surface you're cleaning
- Engine cleaner: External engine degreaser, engine bay cleaning & engine compartment detailing (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)
See also this M54 very detailed hightly pictorial spark plug DIY, which shares engines with you guys on the 3 side:
- One user's pictorial DIY for replacing the BMW M54 engine spark plugs (1)
Originally Posted by bluebee
While all the photos are mine, many of the informative TIS & NGK attachments and diagrams will be recognized from a variety of sources in the Bimmerfest spark-plug archives.
- 2002 BMW 525i automatic, 95K miles
- Cylinder numbering is 1,2,3,4,5,6 from front to rear
- Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4
- Ignition coils are Bosch PN 12131703228, $85.84
- Spark plugs are NGK BKR6EQUP (aka NGK 3199)
- B = thread diameter = 14mm
- K = hex size is 5/8", projected tip (ISO)
- R = resistor type
- 6 = heat range (where 2 is hot, and 11 is cold)
- E = thread reach is 19mm (3/4")
- Q = quad, i.e., 4-ground electrode (i.e., 4 prongs)
- U = firing-end construction is semi-surface discharge
- P = center material is "premium platinum"
- Torque specifications
- NGK spark plugs should be dry (i.e., anti-seize is not recommended by NGK)
- 22 Lb-ft +- 2 Lb-ft
- 266 Lb-in +- 27 Lb-in
- 2.5 to 3.0 kgm
- Or, 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn after bottoming by hand (for new plugs)
- Coil bolts (M6X25-ZNNIV SI, PN: 07119905400)
- Torque = 10 Nm (7.5 ft-lb)
- Fuel supply plastic engine cover bolts (M6X12-Z1-ZNS PN: 07119900272)
- Cylinder head plastic engine cover nuts (AM6-8-ZNNIV SI2 PN: 07129904553)
Parts & Tools & Supplies:
- BMW spark plug application charts (1) (2)
- The best plug to use (1) (2)
- Deciphering key for spark plug codes(1)
- Visually reading plugs (1)
- The truth about torque (1) & gap (1) (2)
- DIYs for replacing spark plugs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
- Relevant pages from the 5-series BMW E39 Bentley manual:
- Page 010-15, spark plug socket is 5/8", deep well
- Page 020-9, Spark plug service interval, M54 engine, 100K miles
- Pages 020-20 to 020-22, Spark plug R&R procedure
- Page 113-17, torque specifications
- Spark plug to cylinder head 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
- Ignition coils to cylinder head 10 Nm (7.5 ft-lb)
- Page 120-9 cylinder numbering & ignition firing order
- Page 120-11, ignition coil resistance specifications
- Page 110-11 to 110-16, removal of plastic engine covers
Idealized DIY Steps:
- Six (6) NGK BKR6EQUP (aka NGK 3199) spark plugs
- 10mm socket
- 5/8" spark plug socket (or 16mm deep socket)
- 1/8" flathead screwdriver
- 1/4" flathead screwdriver
- 6" socket extension bar
- 3" socket extension bar for 3/8" socket wrench
- 1.5" socket extension bar for 3/8" socket wrench
- Socket handle
- Universal joint for 3/8" socket wrench
- Dielectric grease (optional)
- Anti-seize paste (optional)
- Optionally remove the passenger side cabin air filter housing and hose
- Note I did not remove the cabin air filter nor the hose; the last spark plug would have been easier to remove & replace had I done so.
- Remove the oil filler cap temporarily.
- Using a 1/8th inch flathead screwdriver, pry off the two plastic passenger side cylinder head cover bolt caps and remove the two 10mm nuts with a 10mm socket wrench; pull the plastic cylinder head engine cover off by hand.
- Note you may need a u-joint socket bar extension to remove the passenger side nut due to the proximity of the passenger side engine air filter housing hose.
- Replace the oil filler cap so that debris does not enter the engine.
- Optionally, using a 1/8" flathead screwdriver, pry out the two driver side plastic fuel-injection system engine cover bolt caps and remove the two 10mm bolts using a 10mm socket; pull the plastic fuel-injection system engine cover off by hand.
- Note now is a good time to loosely replace the bolts removed so you don't lose them.
- Notice the long clip on the passenger side which holds the coil wires in place (it's optional to remove that clip to make coil removal slightly easier).
- Look around. Notice anything amiss or astray (e.g., different brand coils or mouse-chewed insulation like I had). Notice the two braided silvered ground straps, one at the #1 (fore) and the other at the #6 (aft) cylinder.
- Optionally, mark numbers 1 through 6 on the top of the coils with whiteout or other suitable marking.
- With a 10mm socket, remove the two bolts holding each coil in place.
- With a 1/4 inch flathead screwdriver, lift up on each coil's metal u-shaped harness connector clip and pull the harness connector toward the fender, away from the coil.
- By hand, wiggle each coil, and pull upward off the spark plug; the #6 coil will just barely make it out with the passenger side cabin air filter & hoses intact; but it will lift out.
- Optionally loosely replace the coil bolts so you do not lose them.
- Optionally test coil resistance as per the E39 Bentley page 120-11 (2002 edition)
- With a 5/8" standard spark plug socket & six-inch extension, remove each spark plug taking care to not apply any side forces while twisting it outward.
- Note a five-inch long deep socket just barely makes it to the top of the engine.
- Optionally number the plugs as you remove them (place a line in each of the six landings to label the six plugs).
- If you did not remove the passenger side cabin air filter & hose, then the 6th spark plug will require a short 3" extension bar & a normal 5/8ths inch spark plug socket. Some use a length of fuel system hose, and/or a universal joint.
- Note the old plugs were labeled NGK R5 BMW, while the new plugs are labeled NGK BKR6EQUP.
- Optionally, when replacing the plugs, some people apply a dab of anti-seize on the spark plug threads; however NGK advises against that because of the danger of over torquing.
- By hand, place the new plug in a rubber hose or in a rubber-seated spark-plug socket with extension bar sticking out (but no socket wrench yet), and turn the spark plug socket by hand in the counter-clockwise direction a few turns, and then clockwise, to avoid cross-threading.
- By hand, continue to turn the spark plug clockwise until you cannot turn it by hand any more. Then connect the torque wrench and torque to the figures listed above (1/2 to 2/3 turn or, about 180 to 240 degrees of rotation after you couldn't turn it by hand).
- Note the #6 plug may require a deep socket, and/or a 1.5" extension instead of a regular socket and a 3"inch to 6 inch extension if you did not remove the passenger side cabin air filter housing & hoses.
- By hand, replace the coils & tighten the two 10mm bolts on each coil with a torque wrench.
- By hand, lift up on the u-shaped metal clip on each coil and insert the wire harness connector into each coil; when seated, push down on the u-shaped metal clip to secure the harness connector to each coil.
- Optionally, apply dielectric grease to the female fitting of each coil harness connector.
- By hand, replace the driver side engine cover & 10mm bolts and plastic bolt caps if you had optionally removed it.
- By hand, temporarily remove the oil filter cap and replace the passenger side engine cover, tightening the nuts with a 10mm socket; replace the plastic bolt caps & the oil filler cap when done.
- Check your work area and start your engine to hear it purr!
STEP BY STEP PICTURES (removed for this post)...