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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #251  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:26 PM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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When you say clunk, is it like you feel something unloading or breaking?
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  #252  
Old 01-10-2012, 06:53 AM
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veteran011 veteran011 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my328is View Post
I'll try out the test for the RTABs tonight and will check for the RSMs as well.
Any update on this? We can't help if you don't tell us what ya find!
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Project List:
Replace coolant temp sensor
Replace starter
Brake and Power Steering Fluid Flush
Front Control Arms, Bushings, and Tie Rods
Replace Passenger Lock Actuator
Reglue Peeling Hedliner
Swirl removal
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  #253  
Old 01-31-2012, 07:45 PM
bmw_novice bmw_novice is online now
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Mein Auto: E36 328is
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_novice View Post
You guys are all awesome, thank you for the responses. I just got the car back, and with two new tires on the front, plus 2 belts - serpentine and a/c. The car runs beautifully - only the bumps are an issue.

Since the above set me back some $$$s, I will wait a bit before I can get to work on the suspension. But will get quotes from different service shops. There has to be one with good experience on Euro cars around Champaign, IL.

B_N
Howdy folks just wanted to let you guys know - mine turned out to be the RTABS. Got them done from an Indy called Blackforest Motors in Indy (the city). Cost me about $ 650.00, and he did a full alignment as well as gave me a prioritized list of what I need to do next:

1) Clutch needs replacement - $ 1300 (no flywheel included).
2) Rear Shocks, bump stops, springs, upper mounts - $ 1100
3) All 4 Brakes + Rotors + Sensors = $ 1000
4) Replace valve cover gasket - he smelled oil (I don't on my daily drive) - $ 190
5) Replace 4 tie rods - $ 240
6) Left front sway bar bracket badly rusted, a bump could break this mount- $ 300
7) Rear right sway bar - $ 200
8) Some other odds/ends - air intake boot + pwr steering hoses

Grand Total = $ 6500 + TAX

Ya, I stayed in a depression for the next few weeks - almost overdosed on the Prozac. Still, after a few days of driving the car, it runs great and I love it, made the depression ease up a bit

Now for the clutch job - any ideas/advice?

Best offer so far from a local bloke who has 20 years doing imports such as BMWs = $ 685 for labor. I provide parts - Sachs Kit = $ 225-300. Total around $ 900 is my guess and that is if the flywheel doesn't need replacing, which I hope/believe it does not.

Thanks for all your help again.

B_N
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  #254  
Old 01-31-2012, 08:17 PM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
some kid
Location: Ithaca, NY
 
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Mein Auto: whiny 318
Here's some advice: find a new mechanic. Seriously, those prices are way inflated. A couple don't even make sense. Your car doesn't have 4 tie rods, and $300 to fix a swaybar bracket? A $1k brake job? $1.1k for rear shocks and springs? That stuff is ridiculous.

You got ripped off on the RTABs, too. The parts are less than $50, labor is probably 2-3hrs, so about $250 tops. An alignment shouldn't run you more than $100. That's about $400 of work.
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  #255  
Old 01-31-2012, 09:05 PM
bmw_novice bmw_novice is online now
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Mein Auto: E36 328is
Thanks for the reply/advice cj. Any idea what a clutch repair should cost - she is slipping but I don't believe the flywheel is in trouble. Anyone know a good/reasonable shop in the Indy area - I've had it with people ripping me off!
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  #256  
Old 01-31-2012, 09:14 PM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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Can you do any of the work yourself? Brakes are easy, so are shocks, I think the book on a clutch is @ 5 hours but a good wrench can do it in less time. Do some research and try some of this yourself. Clutch is more about getting at the bolts to take off the tranny.
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  #257  
Old 01-31-2012, 09:22 PM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
some kid
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Clutch is harder to do by yourself if you don't have much experience. Probably best to leave that to a mechanic. Labor should be around $500 since it is about 5 hours of work.

But as JayMac said, try doing the brakes and shocks yourself. They're both easy to do with basic tools. You'll save a lot of money, too.
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  #258  
Old 01-31-2012, 09:48 PM
bmw_novice bmw_novice is online now
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Mein Auto: E36 328is
Yes, I intend to the brakes + shocks by myself when it gets a little warmer - too cold as of now. And I thought the clutch might need fixing first - the Blackforest chap said that, "you want to get that clutch done soon, or you could damage the flywheel, and that can run another $ 1000". So what to do - me going for clutch - am just trying to find someone reasonable in the Indy area.

And no, I don't think I want to even attempt the clutch - I had a time of it trying to fix the windshield washer pump (10 minute diy job some fella said!) - got it hooked up and can hear it run upon pulling the stick, but doesn't spit any fluid - it did on my v.first try and then just "dried up". Pump still goes whrrr. I have cleaned the nozzles with a needle but no luck, bugger wants to drive me crazy!
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  #259  
Old 02-01-2012, 05:50 AM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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A couple of places for parts:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/

http://www.fcpeuro.com/
I think both offer free shipping when you order over $200.

Most shops mark up parts so you can save by buying them yourself

Clutch slipping all the time or just on launch from first gear? I believe clutch is self adjusting so once it goes there is no adjustment. If you can remember park on hill, nose down, let gravity assist in rolling until you get at it. Clutch material is very similar to you brake pad so they wear out. Proper brake in is as important after you have the wok done also so follow the directions.

As for your washer pump or any job, take your time and think it through:
Pump works but no fluid could be as simple as the pick up is damaged or missing or the hose got knocked off.

Think it through, take it slow. In most cases you will be able to do it yourself.
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  #260  
Old 02-01-2012, 06:14 AM
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veteran011 veteran011 is offline
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Location: Westchester Co, NY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_novice View Post
Thanks for the reply/advice cj. Any idea what a clutch repair should cost - she is slipping but I don't believe the flywheel is in trouble. Anyone know a good/reasonable shop in the Indy area - I've had it with people ripping me off!
I recently had my clutch done and the guy charged me $1200. he was a BMW specialist so i was willing to pay a bit more for such an important part of the car.

and $650 to replace the RTABS?!?!?!? you got RIPPED the F@*% OFF. The parts cost from $20-80 and it takes literally an hour of your time per wheel.
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Project List:
Replace coolant temp sensor
Replace starter
Brake and Power Steering Fluid Flush
Front Control Arms, Bushings, and Tie Rods
Replace Passenger Lock Actuator
Reglue Peeling Hedliner
Swirl removal
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  #261  
Old 02-01-2012, 07:08 AM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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Here, this will give you a starting point:

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...39-21211223602

They also have a 10% off and free shipping today if you order by midnight. Don't know if they do this often. Verify you have what you need and good luck.

Last edited by JayMac; 02-01-2012 at 07:35 AM.
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  #262  
Old 02-01-2012, 01:45 PM
GeorgeBush234 GeorgeBush234 is offline
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To me based on what you said it sounded like a muffler problem then again it can be anything.
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  #263  
Old 02-01-2012, 01:52 PM
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veteran011 veteran011 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeBush234 View Post
To me based on what you said it sounded like a muffler problem then again it can be anything.
who is this in reply to? curious cuz the topic right now is a clutch.
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Project List:
Replace coolant temp sensor
Replace starter
Brake and Power Steering Fluid Flush
Front Control Arms, Bushings, and Tie Rods
Replace Passenger Lock Actuator
Reglue Peeling Hedliner
Swirl removal
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  #264  
Old 02-01-2012, 02:12 PM
bmw_novice bmw_novice is online now
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Thanks JayMac, CJ.Surr and Veteran, I've started a new thread trying to explore clutch options for the 328is. Your ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks.

b_N
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  #265  
Old 02-02-2012, 12:47 AM
GeorgeBush234 GeorgeBush234 is offline
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What kind of clutch problem are you guys talking about.
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  #266  
Old 02-02-2012, 06:19 PM
bmw_novice bmw_novice is online now
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^ the symptoms are most visible in 3rd and 4th gear around the 2500 rpm mark. When I step on the gas pedal after releasing the clutch completely, I feel the engine rev (RPM needle goes up to about 3500), but car does not correspondingly accelerate. If I step on the gas very gradually, she starts to pick up, once I move above the 3K mark, it picks up pretty good and is responsive. I am guessing that is a slipping clutch?
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  #267  
Old 02-02-2012, 10:06 PM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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I would say you are correct. Find a kit that has what you need and replace it.
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  #268  
Old 02-21-2012, 10:12 PM
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Shigeta Shigeta is offline
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Your pics are broken in every post man.
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  #269  
Old 02-24-2012, 10:35 AM
foxyliquid foxyliquid is offline
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Hello,
I know some time has passed from when you posted this and I really would appreciate if you could answer? I am having the same problem now!

Many thanks

Jamie
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  #270  
Old 02-24-2012, 10:40 AM
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veteran011 veteran011 is offline
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Location: Westchester Co, NY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxyliquid View Post
Hello,
I know some time has passed from when you posted this and I really would appreciate if you could answer? I am having the same problem now!

Many thanks

Jamie
Welcome bud. however you may want to specify which problem you're referring to. there were several talked about in the last few weeks.
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dab of oppo anyone?



Project List:
Replace coolant temp sensor
Replace starter
Brake and Power Steering Fluid Flush
Front Control Arms, Bushings, and Tie Rods
Replace Passenger Lock Actuator
Reglue Peeling Hedliner
Swirl removal
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  #271  
Old 03-16-2012, 07:56 PM
MAJSabres MAJSabres is offline
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Mein Auto: 1993 325i
Driving me nuts!!!!!!!!!!


Just replaced rear shocks, and rear differential/axle seal. However did not fix my problem.............

My problem is that (manual trans) when im in 2nd and 3rd gear accelerating at higher rpms my entire car is shaking. Shifting into next gear stops shaking. No problems in 1st,4th or 5th. And while car is shaking I have less torque than I am used to. No signs of any problems prior to this issue.

Has anyone dealt with this or have knowledge?

PLEASE HELP!!!! THANK YOU!!
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  #272  
Old 03-16-2012, 07:57 PM
MAJSabres MAJSabres is offline
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oh, And NO problems shifting into or out of any gears
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  #273  
Old 03-16-2012, 08:12 PM
craigbmw325 craigbmw325 is offline
325ic E36 '94
Location: Los Angeles
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 325ic E36 1994
Sorry for the super long delay in a problem that way equally as long.

I want to thank everyone who helped me get to grips with the annoying mysterious embarrassing knocking sound that was coming from my drivers side rear.

A quick update so those don't have to go back reading.

Symtoms:
Knocking ask sound coming from rear drivers side
Intermitent
accelerated as I did
would cease when travelling at an even speed
would often be triggered by freeway driving if it was in 'cease mode'
would be louder around corners (but i couldn't distinguish if this was due to the angle of my ears lol)

It Wouldn't:
it would not increase with bumps
It would not steer me to one side with heavy breaking

Notes:
after lifting the car, the noise would always cease for anywhere between 10 mins and 14 days of pure bliss driving
I took it to 5 garages to get sorted, and nobody could determine the problem

Suggested Solutions:
Drive Shaft : which I viewed the flex disc for cracks myself, and there were non. The support mount seemed to be doing it's job too
Axel: This is what the garages I took it to wanted to replace (lots of bucks)
Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (RTAB's) (which seemed in good order)
Suspension (general)
Even possibly my Parking Break (which is still extremely loose)

As with anyone else experiencing similar sounds, it's massively frustrating and embarrassing.

Solution for me...
I re-greased my axle, under the boot (which had no cracks in it).... and i've not had the problem since.

As you can imagine with having it looked at several times and each time it got lifted, it was returned with no knocking noise, I thought I'd solved it several times before so I've left it 6 weeks before posting my solution, as to not jinx myself haha.

I hope this helps guys. And thanks to those that helped me again with coming to a solution for this, especial jay. I'm sure I'll be back on here soon enough lol
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  #274  
Old 03-17-2012, 01:23 AM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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MAJ, Drive shaft brace? When you say no torque, do you mean loss of power or the car feels like it is under a heavier load. High rpm in 2, 3 could be your shaft binding up. Any type of noise?




Craig keep an eye on that. If it was dry and binding it should have been wearing. Grease might mask the sound but you might still have an issue. I am tackling shocks and a wheel bearing today. Will try to get some pics and info posted.

Last edited by JayMac; 03-17-2012 at 01:28 AM.
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  #275  
Old 03-17-2012, 08:42 AM
MAJSabres MAJSabres is offline
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Mein Auto: 1993 325i
JayMac,
Yes. Like I'm towing a boat with it. Drove it around for about an hour. No pulling to either side. If I floor it in 2nd and 3rd when Rpm tops and I don't shift it will make a loud bang and then it feels like my rear tires make full contact with road and torque comes back as my front end lifts. And while the car shakes I feel as if my back tires are peeling out although I hear absolutely no squealing of the tires.
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