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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #151  
Old 09-26-2011, 07:38 PM
Tyoussef Tyoussef is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 328is
Exclamation Car making loud bottoming out sound going over bumps

I have a 1998 328is and have been experiencing a loud bottoming out sound around the rear passenger wheel when going over a bump or manhole when driving at over 50 kms.
I also feel the car is jolting in the rear passenger side of the car.
The sound is not so bad or non existent when driving over bumps at a slower speeds and have no issues driving fast or slow on well paved roads.

A friend of mine who is a mechanic thought it might be the sway bar joint.
Took the car in and mentioned it to my mechanic. He checked out sway bar and it was fine.
He thinks it might be rear axle bushing but wasn't really sure if that was the problem.

I am not mechanically inclined and would really appreciate some help to figure out whats causing the jolting (bottoming out feel) in the rear passenger side of the car.

Thanks

Tony
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  #152  
Old 09-26-2011, 08:47 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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  #153  
Old 09-28-2011, 09:43 AM
Tyoussef Tyoussef is offline
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Experiencing loud bottoming out sound going over bumps

Hi, I have been going Over your past posts and they are very informative.
Lately, I have been exp. Loud bottoming out sound like if something heavy in my trunk has just dropped hard when going over bumps when driving at over 30 miles per hr.
Friend of mine thought it might be the sway bar. Mechanic checked it out and it was okay.
I've checked other sites which mentioned it might be the rear strut mounts. The mechanic thought it might be the rear axle bushings but didn't seem to be sure of it.
I here the sound coming from the rear passenger side of the car.
Your help will be really appreciated

Thanks
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  #154  
Old 09-28-2011, 12:42 PM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
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It's probably the RSMs, but it could be any of the bushings. You should be able to tell just by taking the wheel off and seeing if there is any play in the shock.
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  #155  
Old 10-01-2011, 08:40 PM
Diversified Diversified is offline
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Mein Auto: 96 328is
oh the joy of a broken rear spring...

It sounds ominious, but it was super easy and took under an hour to do both sides and have it back on the ground and rolling. I thank you again Bimmerfest! MY car was slammed up until yesterday :/ I liked the look better but prefer this ride much more!
Cheers and thanx so much for your help!
Sounds just like my car did, your springs are likely weak on that side (same as mine and that banging it makes, you think you're riding on the frame and the skittering drift thing, thats fun) the shock on that side is probably gone too. Not to worry as I have said I just did this job on my 96 328is.
I looked everywhere to get new springs cuz I wasnt paying the new OEM in the box price, I found nothing except from Turnermotorsports I think, online. So in the end I went to a wrecker in Burnaby thats specializes in Bimmers "Affordable" and bought springs and shocks OEM, but "used" for $252.00. inc taxes for both sides. I love that place those guys are super helpful. Anyway is a real easy job if you have two jackstands, floor jack, medium bar, 10mm socket and an 18mm socket. Bobs your uncle it fixed everything that was wrong with it.

Last edited by Diversified; 10-01-2011 at 09:18 PM.
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  #156  
Old 11-03-2011, 06:38 PM
bmw_novice bmw_novice is online now
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Mein Auto: E36 328is
Hello folks,

Hate to just jump in like this, but I needed some rather urgent help. Here is my story:

After a long, long and excruciating search, I at last have a BMW (yay!). I recently bought a two owner (almost one owner) 1997 Bmw 328is with about 143K miles. First things first, I love it. Almost everything inside functions (well not the wiper fluid thingie, and the stereo display is fading out, but other than that, it is pretty good on the inside. A few flaws no doubt in the seats but nothing ungainly, ditto with the exterior as well. I bought it right away since it drove nicely - could not find any leaks or obvious problems either.

When I bought it I noticed that the serpentine belt had a few cracks and after the test drive, on the way home, I also noticed that as I went over bumps, there was a thump in the rear passenger side, along with a little shift in the steering. My guess was perhaps a rear shock mount and in a worse case scenario, a pair of new shocks. (btw, the serp belt and a/c belt have now been replaced, and two front tires as well).

Well speaking of shocks, when I took it to a local mechanic (not familiar with BMWs btw), he gave me a rude one and pointed out that the rear axle knuckles are all but gone, and the vehicle is a danger to drive! He does not exactly know what the part is called and where it may be available, but believes his labor to be no less than $ 450 including the serp belt, which too he said, was a pain in the rear to fix.

My problem/questions are - a) I cannot find anything called a rear axle knuckle for the BMW, all I can find is front steering knuckles. b) Should I go to someone else? c) Can any kind person please suggest what might be the problem?

Thank you very much, and may your Bimmers take you to glory!

For now, the foll. is the closest post that describes my situation:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boab View Post
When you go over a bump, does the rear of the car feel like its swaying to the left or right a little bit?
My ans: most indubitably.

Regards,
BMW_N

Last edited by bmw_novice; 11-03-2011 at 06:41 PM.
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  #157  
Old 11-03-2011, 06:50 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 BMW 328is
It's hard to know, but I'm assuming he meant the CV joints?

Regardless, a wandering rear end over bumps could be due to bad shocks, bad rear trailing arm bushings, and to a much lesser extent, bad rear shock mounts. Unless you have records stating otherwise, I can guarantee you that virtually every bushing and all shocks/struts on your car need to be replaced. They don't last much longer than 100k miles. Ultimately, you should take your car to a shop that knows something about BMWs, however.

By the way, changing the belts takes about 15 minutes, if that.
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 11-03-2011 at 06:52 PM.
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  #158  
Old 11-03-2011, 07:09 PM
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jonesin jonesin is online now
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Location: Fort McMurray AB
 
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Here are two incredibly useful sites to assist a new member that searched!

http://bmwfans.info
http://realoem.com

From the description of the swaying and the sound, I'd lean towards rear trailing arm bushings (RTAB's) also. As Karl stated, all suspension bushings are due to be replaced. Also is your cooling system EN MASSE! (Total cooling system cost is ~$500). The full suspension bushings will run you ~$350.

Welcome to the 'Fest,

Ed.
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  #159  
Old 11-03-2011, 07:16 PM
bmw_novice bmw_novice is online now
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Mein Auto: E36 328is
Thank you so much for your quick responses, I am glad to be a part of the 'fest community. When you say $ 350 for all the suspension bushings, does this include labor or just parts? Man, I wish I had some place interiors to go and work on this car - not that I have any experience other than changing oil on a Ford Taurus. Biggest problem here is that there really is no Euro car repair shop close by.

Oh, and I did ask him if it were the CV joints, and he flat said no. Rear axle knuckles is what he called 'em. Thing is he kind of succeeded in scaring me - man says that the whole thing could come apart as I drive and accelerate. Even lose a wheel. Not only that, it seems the backside moves an inch or so in terms of its alignment. I just got it back from his shop today, and don't plan on driving it to work - shame really, it was one thing I really enjoyed about work Paid him $ 150 for the belt replacement.

B_N

Last edited by bmw_novice; 11-03-2011 at 07:20 PM.
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  #160  
Old 11-03-2011, 07:20 PM
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jonesin jonesin is online now
The Canadian Prick.
Location: Fort McMurray AB
 
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Mein Auto: '96 328is Cosmos
Those prices I listed are for parts. In all honesty, these are quite easy cars to work on. (We've even had a few girls do their own work over the years! (said with tongue planted very firmly in cheek)) Truly there are many here who have had these as first cars, and who had no experiance working on cars before these. Also we've got at least 2 guys on here who did full engine swaps in these under the age of 18. There are many many DIYs available, and we are always glad to help with our own experiences and knowledge.

(http://bimmerdiy.com) is another site to bookmark. FOr many things, the price of the tools needed is roughly similar to the cost of having it done for you. (then you only pay the tool cost once).
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.

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  #161  
Old 11-04-2011, 12:07 AM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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GetBMWParts.com

Pretty good prices from these guys. First, you have a 14 year old car. I am guessing bushings or camber bolts.

9 and 10 in this diagram. 2 and 3 are the same part. The bushings for the 328 are not the same as the M3 but the M3 will work and are an upgrade. If you are on a budget read up and see what you can do yourself.
Like previously said, these things are pretty easy to work on. If you have a jack and some jack stands, put it on there and have a look around. Your sway bar links are probably fused also from just being old. That will pop and unload. Easy fix and you can build them yourself. I had all of my bushings replaced and the car rides like new. Radio can be fixed also or upgraded. There is a guy on ebay that fixes the radio. I sent him a non working one and got it back in a week working and full display. Here is his info
germanaudiotech
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  #162  
Old 11-04-2011, 12:23 AM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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Forgot to mention, for seats you can use stuff from: www.Leatherique.com I am going to be doing that shortly. Plenty of videos on youtube also.

Also, you could have a cv joint going. New axles are @$500 from the dealer. Rock auto has A1 Cardone for $50
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=10634 2 year warranty!
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  #163  
Old 11-04-2011, 05:38 AM
Diversified Diversified is offline
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Mein Auto: 96 328is
It sounds to me exactly what my car was doing, I drive a 96 328is. Weak spring and shock will make you feel like you have other problems with steering, knuckles etc. Never use a mechanic who doesnt know Bimmers, they are useless to you other than to empty your pocket book and make a mess. That dude is just going to come here to get his answers anyway. If you dont want to pay for new, hit a wrecker that specailizes in Bimmers and Audi's. Not only will they likely know what you need exacly, they will have it. This is the path I took and was greatly relieved at both how easy and cheap it was to fix. Hope that helps and best of luck!
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  #164  
Old 11-05-2011, 02:06 AM
bmw_novice bmw_novice is online now
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Mein Auto: E36 328is
You guys are all awesome, thank you for the responses. I just got the car back, and with two new tires on the front, plus 2 belts - serpentine and a/c. The car runs beautifully - only the bumps are an issue.

Since the above set me back some $$$s, I will wait a bit before I can get to work on the suspension. But will get quotes from different service shops. There has to be one with good experience on Euro cars around Champaign, IL.

B_N
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  #165  
Old 11-18-2011, 11:26 AM
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veteran011 veteran011 is offline
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Question pulsing hum from the rear

hey guys,
so i noticed a pulsing hum from the rear while travelling above 55mph. it seems independent of speed so i dont think its anything related to the drivetrain but i def could be wrong. the hum is at a very slow pulse (around 1per second but the sound lasts for about half a second). I'm hoping its a bushing or maybe bar rear shocks (i'm planning to replace them soon anyways).

thoughts?

Colin
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  #166  
Old 11-18-2011, 11:05 PM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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Straight line? When you say independant of speed, do you mean the length of the noise is the same or the sound is the same? Could be tires. Did you check for wear?
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  #167  
Old 11-19-2011, 11:36 PM
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veteran011 veteran011 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayMac View Post
Straight line? When you say independant of speed, do you mean the length of the noise is the same or the sound is the same? Could be tires. Did you check for wear?
the pulse frequency and the duration are unchanged as speed varies. and it doesnt start until i hit 55. its not the tires; they're brand new. and if it was i would think that going faster would change something about the sound.
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  #168  
Old 11-20-2011, 08:54 AM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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I agree with you thinking but don't know if you are right. I would think that if you had something other than the tires wearing the pulse and duration should change also with the change in speed. That said I would start with the simple first.
Ask a mechanic to take a short ride with you, but be prepared for them to guess too, unless they are familiar with the issue.
I would remove the wheels, clean the mounting surfaces remount and torque the bolts. Hold that ..... how about this idea, fuel system. You say your sound doesn't vary by speed so take the car up to @70 and make sure you take note of rpm and sound,.... coast and see what happens. This is all a guess but if you don't think it is the wheels and the sound doesn't change it has to be something independent of the speed but not of the load. Read this:
http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/b...placement.html
Maybe this might have something to do with it or at least start you in the right direction. Pop the rear seat out and it might allow you to hear the sound and find the location better. Hope this helps and good luck!
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  #169  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:07 AM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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This might help with the sound. Notice sound of new pump and compare it to what you are hearing:


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  #170  
Old 11-30-2011, 10:32 AM
craigbmw325 craigbmw325 is offline
325ic E36 '94
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Mein Auto: BMW 325ic E36 1994
Knocking sound from rear

Hey Everyone,

I have a really strange one that I hopping you guys can shed some light on.

I have a BMW 325i convertible. 1994. I have a 'knocking' sound from the rear of the vehicle. The knocking is 'tin' like in sound. It's annoying in many aspects. It doesn't do it all the time, now it only does it noticeably around 10% of the time. On the very odd occasion it does it 'ad hoc' but usually only when accelerating and usually from low speeds. The knocking speeds up as I do; slow louder knocking at first and through acceleration it speeds up and dulls slightly.

I tried recording it, but it seems it's camera shy!!

The only other comment I'd make really that may help is that it started right after I had my catalytic converters replaced. I took it in with no sound, driving off the yard it had the knocking. The knocking sounds like it could have been my exhaust not attached correctly, but I've taken it to two garages now, they've both lifted it, and they both cannot find the cause.

it's consuming me haha.

Any ideas?
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  #171  
Old 11-30-2011, 11:14 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Did you tell both of those shops that you recently had exhaust work performed? Because based on what you are explaining, that would be the first thing that I would look at. Sure, there are plenty of other things that can make noise in the rear of an E36, but if you just had the exhaust out and it was fine before the work, the exhaust is most likely the culprit.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
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View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #172  
Old 11-30-2011, 11:23 AM
craigbmw325 craigbmw325 is offline
325ic E36 '94
Location: Los Angeles
 
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Cheers for the reply. Yeah, one of the garages was where I had the work done, and as there was motive for him to lie I took it to another garage, and told him what work had just been done. The latter garage I told around the block with me while it was making the sound. I left it with him for 3 hours and he said that he lifted it tried to find the culprit, couldn't, lowered it and drove it round the block and, you guess it, no sound.
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  #173  
Old 11-30-2011, 11:29 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Well, they should have been able to find the source of the noise very quickly if it was just a misaligned exhaust system. The next thing I would consider based on your description would be your rear trailing arm bushings (aka: RTABs). If these have failed, they can make noise under acceleration and deceleration. Does the the rear end of your car also "crabwalk" a little bit under acceleration?
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #174  
Old 11-30-2011, 11:54 AM
craigbmw325 craigbmw325 is offline
325ic E36 '94
Location: Los Angeles
 
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hmm, I don't know exactly what you mean by crab walking but the car seems run smoothly whether the sound is being made or not, and under low or high acceleration. Is there a way I could diagnose rear trailing arm bushing failure? The sound does seem to be coming from the rear drivers side (us), tho that could be because of where I'm sat lol
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  #175  
Old 11-30-2011, 12:03 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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By "crabwalking", I mean does the rear end of the car go a little sideways under acceleration? That is one of the main ways to diagnose failed RTABs.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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