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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2007, 07:52 PM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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Mein Auto: 1985 BMW 325e coupe
85 325e problems please help!!

Ok heres my problem, im looking into buying this 85 325e.
It has been sitting for quite a while and i started it up today with the owner and it would rev but would die when you just let it idle, also, it felt as though it had no power when you drove it and it was hard to get into gear.
Another thing it had a flashing check engine light on the dash, im going to get it checked out to see what it is, im thinking maybe a sensor.

In the deal there is another 325 that will go along with it because the rear end in the 325e is shot, for both, 750 dollars, the trans in the 2nd one is done for but it starts right up like a dream, would i be able to just swap the motor, which do you think i should do???

thanks a ton for any help, i know very little about bimmers and am excited about learning all i can.
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2007, 06:12 AM
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AdamAnt AdamAnt is offline
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try swapping the Air flow meter from the working engine
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  #3  
Old 08-09-2007, 06:50 AM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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ok, i have been reading up on it, do you think that it could be the ICV??
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  #4  
Old 08-09-2007, 08:55 AM
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omw41 omw41 is offline
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You need to get the car home before you start throwing parts at it. 750.00 is a good deal for a car that is running, plus a donor car. Pull the ICV off one and swap it on the other...see what happens. If the car is starting, you're getting air, spark, and fuel, no doubt about it. Whether those systems need to be tweaked is another story. It could be as simple as water in the fuel...a clogged fuel filter, or as complicated as a fuel pump, regualtor, rails, and injectors. Get the cars home. You can easily part out two cars on EBAY or on here in the FS section and make your 750.00 back. That's my opinion.
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  #5  
Old 08-09-2007, 09:50 AM
Mike_Check Mike_Check is offline
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That flashing "Check" light in the middle of the dash is not the "CHeck Engine" light. It is a check system that corresponds with the panel above in the middle console near the sunroof crank. It checks the bulbs and other equipment for you. But it can't check the brake lights until you step on the pedal...which is why it blinks.

+1 on buying the setup. 2 running cars and all the parts to make a good E30 is worth $750.

The ICV, fuel pumps(there are 2, one n front of the rear drivers side wheel, and one in the tank which is accessible by removing the rear seat in the car), fuel filter(in the engine bay under the charcoal canister, which is next to the brake master cylinder), bad fuel from sitting, spark plugs(don't use platinums!), a hole or few in your intake boot(the rubberish intake tube with the AFM attatched) will allow unmetered air in and ruin your idle and A/F mix, coolant temp sensor, wires, cap, rotor...and a bit more, could ALL cause rough and erratic idle and power.

Sounds like a lot, but it all comes down to correct air measurement and flow, spark timing, and fuel delivery. Pretty simple really.

BTW...get the compression checked...and for god's sake!!!!!! Change the timing belt and water pump if you drive it regularly!!!!! Search for broken M20 timing belts...you'll see.
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2007, 11:00 AM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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oh ok, so that light is just for the panel, alright.
So ill be picking up the cars relativly soon, and as soon as they are here i will swap out the icv, fuel pumps, plugs, etc.... and then ill see how it runs.
so if it had the leaks, the plugs were bad, and maybe the icv was bad, would it make it die like that?? if so then that would have me sold on the cars since it wouldnt be anything outrageously bad. weird how they have 2 fuel pumps
how much are timing belts??

thanks a ton by the way
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2007, 11:31 AM
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omw41 omw41 is offline
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Timing belt kits are cheap. somewhere under 40.00 dollars. If you can do it yourself...that's it. A mechanic should not charge you more than 200.00 with parts to do an installation. There's no question that all the issues you mention above would make the car run rough or "die" out. Don't swap plugs..***** some new ones. And I don't want to step on mike's toes, but I think the inner tank "fuel pump" is really a vacumn setup that sends fuel to the pump and then the pump sends it forward. So it's not really 2 "fuel pumps." In any case, Mike is right on point.
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  #8  
Old 08-09-2007, 11:51 AM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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oh, i wasnt planning on swapping the plugs, i just accidentally said that...oops
yeah, i probably can do it, i have a B5 audi a4 and it cant be near as hard as it is on them . I mean, everything is right there, you dont have to take the entire front of the car off just to fit your arm in there.
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2007, 11:56 AM
Mike_Check Mike_Check is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omw41 View Post
Timing belt kits are cheap. somewhere under 40.00 dollars. If you can do it yourself...that's it. A mechanic should not charge you more than 200.00 with parts to do an installation. There's no question that all the issues you mention above would make the car run rough or "die" out. Don't swap plugs..***** some new ones. And I don't want to step on mike's toes, but I think the inner tank "fuel pump" is really a vacumn setup that sends fuel to the pump and then the pump sends it forward. So it's not really 2 "fuel pumps." In any case, Mike is right on point.
Yeah, the inline pump is the high pressure pump. But the strainer in the in tank pump can get clogged, reducing pressure to the high pressure pump, and burning it up.
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  #10  
Old 08-09-2007, 11:58 AM
Mike_Check Mike_Check is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Ecoupe View Post
oh, i wasnt planning on swapping the plugs, i just accidentally said that...oops
yeah, i probably can do it, i have a B5 audi a4 and it cant be near as hard as it is on them . I mean, everything is right there, you dont have to take the entire front of the car off just to fit your arm in there.
Do some research on changing the water pump while you're in there. You have to take it off anyway...might as well.

And check up on the water pump wrench that you'll need. i can't remember right off the top of my head what it is...but it is a tight space, and it is almost required.

((Hint: take the hood off to change the timing belt.))
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  #11  
Old 08-09-2007, 12:04 PM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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sorry for so many Q's

how much are the water pumps?
and how much time do you think itll take, a couple hours?? more? less?
ok ill check on that,
it sounds like the belt is slipping alot and is squeaking, also, the alternator is able to move when i pull or push on it.
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  #12  
Old 08-09-2007, 12:09 PM
Mike_Check Mike_Check is offline
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Check www.oembimmerparts.com or www.bavauto.com for prices.

Belt tensioner?



It will take you an afternoon for your first time.
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  #13  
Old 08-09-2007, 12:28 PM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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sweet thanks, now, im thinking into the future here, how are the turner motorsports chips?? any good at all? because 121bhp sounds pretty low and i would(after i get everything fixed) like to up the performance a bit.
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  #14  
Old 08-09-2007, 04:01 PM
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AdamAnt AdamAnt is offline
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once you get everything fixed and running smoothly there are a few ways for you to squeeze a little more juice out of your eta, and quite cheaply get it to outrun a 325i. you could always do the M30 AFM swap, which is a nice easy project to get you familiarized with the working of your intake system.

After that, to free up the intake a little more you would want to bolt on a 323i head, intake manifold and throttle body, and 325i ECU, that somewhat eliminates the need for an after market chip, unless you wanna go hardcore and get it completely managed by something like a haltech.

There are plenty more things you can to to give your eta some serious pace, any questions feel free to ask.
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  #15  
Old 08-09-2007, 05:11 PM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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awesome, the deal came with two car, both with motors than run, one bad, another perfect, but the one that runs perfect the tranny is shot. So i was thinking about porting the heads and such from that motor?? what do you think, or should i sell it and get the 323i head and 325i ecu?

Im so excited to have a sweet bimmer like these, ive always been partial to audis.......until now
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  #16  
Old 08-13-2007, 02:50 PM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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ok running fine now but at 2200 rpm....i fiddled with the icv screw and got nothing...??....


whats going on?
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  #17  
Old 08-13-2007, 04:41 PM
Mike_Check Mike_Check is offline
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High idle? Constantly? Or is it like a rev up and down and up...?
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  #18  
Old 08-14-2007, 08:17 AM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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constant
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  #19  
Old 08-15-2007, 03:45 PM
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omw41 omw41 is offline
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Switch the ICV's if you haven't done that already.
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  #20  
Old 08-15-2007, 07:35 PM
85Ecoupe 85Ecoupe is offline
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ok fixed it, but now after i drive it for a while, it does a dsm(diamond star motors aka eclipse, talon etc...) idle....if you dont know what that is whenever im in neutral, the rpms slowly go up to about 1400 then drop back down to 800 and the cycle repeats until i go into gear, its not bad....just annoying.
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