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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2007, 09:56 PM
medinaj medinaj is offline
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Mein Auto: 1985 BMW 318i
85' 318i Problems

I just purchased an 85' 318i, and have noticed a few strange things going on with it. First off, it runs fine, except that the tachometer, and fuel guages do not work. Secondly, When I'm driving the car, and I turn on an electrical device such as the headlights, or AC, the car starts to stall, otherwise it will idle erratically. Also, the "service" and "Maintainence" Lights are both on, So maybe that might have something to do with it...? Also, If anybody out there knows how to clear those two lights, could you please let me know?. Thank you in advance for any help.
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2007, 09:00 AM
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omw41 omw41 is offline
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Do a search on here for clearing the idiot lights. There's been at least five posts on it in the past two years. Do a search for SI batteries on here. The stalling stuff sounds like it could be alternator or voltage regulator related. Hope this helped.
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  #3  
Old 08-09-2007, 04:48 PM
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JAKE325 JAKE325 is offline
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I Had The Same Problem With The Voltage,i Rebuilt The Altinator And Replaced All Electrical Connections Under The Hood And Bought A New Battery To Solve It. The Iratic Idle Could Be Timing,fuel Mixture,plugs,wires,iac,the Voltage Problem,coil,old Gas,or Dirty Filter-air Or Fuel-to Name A Few!
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Old 08-10-2007, 08:25 PM
medinaj medinaj is offline
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Thanks for the suggestions, I think it is the voltage regulator. Anyway, I'm still totally stumped on the irratic idling. Although, I have noticed one other thing that may help in diagnosing the problem. When I first start off driving the car, it runs and idles fine, however, after about 10 or 15 minutes when the engine starts to warm up, the idling just becomes irratic. I've checked, and it's not overheating. Thanks for everyone's help!
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2007, 10:30 PM
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omw41 omw41 is offline
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Don't be stumped on the idle After you have done a visual on the basics like wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, hoses, and reacted accordingly, change out your Idle Control Valve.
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Old 08-11-2007, 12:02 AM
medinaj medinaj is offline
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I'll try those suggestions. Thank you very much! Also, one last question, I still have the problems with the Odometer, Tachometer, and Fuel Guage. It seems to me like they just aren't getting power, But I've checked all of the fuses, and none of them were blown. I've also made sure that everything is conected in the back of the guages. So I'm not sure what else could possibly be the issue.
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  #7  
Old 08-11-2007, 06:26 PM
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JAKE325 JAKE325 is offline
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Tell u what,I AM HAVING THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM TOO A TEE!!! iF YOU CAN FIGGURE IT LET ME KNOW! I HAVE PRACTICALLY REBUILT THE CAR,AND HAVE THIS SAME PROBLEM WITH IDILING AND STALLING AFTER WARMUP,AND AFTER 6 MONTHS OF WORKING ON IT ,IT HAS ME STUMPED,AS I HAVE CHECKED AND DOUBLE CHECKED EVERYTHING I COULD THINK OF,INCLUDING CHANGING ALT,IAC AND COMPUTER FOR IAC.I'M TRULY STUMPED!! CHECKED AND REPLACED MOST CONNECTIONS TOO.DOES YOURS HAVE AN AUX ELECTRIC FAN??
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Old 08-11-2007, 08:41 PM
medinaj medinaj is offline
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Wow, I'm glad I'm not the only one thats having that issue. My 318i has an Auxillary Fan. I'm going to first replace the voltage regulator, if that doesn't work then I'll replace the alternator, and if It's still having the issue after all that, than I'll be completly stumped too. I'll let everyone know as soon as I find the problem.
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  #9  
Old 08-12-2007, 07:55 AM
anthropat@yahoo anthropat@yahoo is offline
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Hey,

I was having the same exact issue with my tach/fuel gauge. (88 is). Turns out my father jumped th car backwards when I was away. I initially went after SI board, but even with new one it was not working properly.

Turns out he fried the ABS relay, my 13 button comp (OBC), and the tach system. I bought a used instrument cluster an switched out the speedo and odo. Works fine, if you end up doing this make sure you keep the coding plug from the SI board, (in the little plastic housing in on the front of the cluster, bottom right), accordingly, if you ever replace your OBC, keep the coding plug in the back of that as well.

Your problem might not be the same, but some of the circuitry may have gone bad; seems to be a sticking point with these cars.

Hope this helps.
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  #10  
Old 08-12-2007, 09:13 AM
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JAKE325 JAKE325 is offline
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Just A Thought,do You Know If Your Aux Fan Works? I'm Thinking It Has Something To Do With That Circuit As The Problem Starts After Its Warm!
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  #11  
Old 08-12-2007, 09:19 AM
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JAKE325 JAKE325 is offline
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Its acting like a REALLY HEAVY draw.I know my alt and all wires too and from are good as they are new with soldered connections and i checked for voltage drop and there is none!my voltage is 14.30 from the alt. more testing today and I'll let you know!Lets keep in touch and see if we can lick this together!
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2007, 04:35 PM
medinaj medinaj is offline
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I just checked my Auxillary Fan, and It's working. Maybe it's shutting off after I start driving...? That I don't know. I ordered some parts to replace, and they should be in within the next few days, so I'll let everyone know how that goes.
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  #13  
Old 08-13-2007, 05:56 PM
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JAKE325 JAKE325 is offline
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please do!
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2007, 07:02 PM
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JAKE325 JAKE325 is offline
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Any more progress?
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  #15  
Old 08-17-2007, 02:16 PM
medinaj medinaj is offline
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Good news everyone! I replaced a ton of parts, and it seems to have fixed my idling and electric problems. I replaced the Distributor cap, Spark plug wires, spark plugs, ignition coil, voltage regulator, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensor, temp sender/sensor, and the water temp sensor. The car seems to be running perfectly now. I hope this might help in diagnosing your erratic idle problem. Thank you for everyone's help. It was very much appreciated.
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