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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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Old 02-10-2017, 01:02 PM
sailin sailin is offline
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Location: Gainesville, FL
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 1989 325i convertable
Do I need to remove the intake manifold to replace the injectors?


I just bought a 1989 325i convertible in good shape that hasn't run in years due to fuel issues.
It had a a rusty old tank. I've replaced the tank, fuel filter, fuel pump and have it running but the infectors are in sad shape. I've bought a set and want to replace them, but don't know if I need to take off the intake manifold or just slide the rail out with the injectors? Has anyone done this and be willing to give me a few tips on how to go about it.

The is a 1989, 325i, production model 12/88, 6 cylinder, 5 speed manual transmission.


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Old 02-13-2017, 01:02 PM
tomstin tomstin is offline
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Location: Wake Forest NC
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 34
Mein Auto: 2005 525i
There are a few posts that suggests you can take the rail out and replace the injectors without removing the intake. It sounds like a good dose of patience is in order. I have my rebuilt injectors on the way and I may attempt this task on the weekend.

Lots of little things that can get dropped / lost and end up in the intake if you're not REAL careful. Let me know how you make out if you get to this project before me.
Daily Driver: 2005 525i sport, manual transmission, Dension Gateway 500 with bluetooth Project vehicle: 1985 325E Coupe, manual
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Old 02-13-2017, 04:27 PM
sailin sailin is offline
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Location: Gainesville, FL
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 1989 325i convertable
I did manage it.
1. take of the hoses from the fuel line to fuel rail. vacuum line above it. the blowby hose on the valve cover. There is a little bracket from the intake manifold to the valve cover. (just to get it out of your way. There are two clips connectors from the electrical part of the injector rail. (I lost one of the clips that hold it the connectors together.

And the most important and what really pissed me off was the plug under the manifold on the other side. I couldn't get it all the way off. You unscrew it from underneath and you can separate the plug, but I couldn't get the plug free from the bracket so I left the wire harness for the electrical rail for the injectors. I know there must be a way but I didn't figure it out.

After you got that stuff, the electrical plugs are just snapped in. I used a big screwdriver and gently pried up on the connectors and they all popped off. Then move the rail either up or down and then you can see the four bolts holding the fuel rail in place. (I left the valve cover in place and had no trouble getting the bolts off.) Then comes the fun parts. I pried with pry bar, screw drivers and channel locks and a breaker bar getting the old ones out. Most of them came out fairly easy, some didn't. The top of the injector is connected to the fuel rail with a metal clip and that pushes out by hand and then they are fairly easy to separate the rail from the injector. But the bottom of the injector is just pushed into the hole. No clips, just on o ring for a good seal. I had to use a my channel locks and a breaker bar to get one of them off the others weren't too bad. I couldn't get them off connected to the rail. So after I separated the injectors from the rail, I just pulled it out. then pulled out the injectors. I bought 6 remanufactured injectors for $70 on ebay. I tried to put them back in connected to the rail and it didn't work. The slow method I used was I put each injector in place (vacuumed the area thoroughly then cleaned the area) then I put the rail in place on top and then the super fun part was putting the metal clips on the injectors. Took awhile and be very careful not to lose them. Then tightened the four bolt (I stripped one, sad but true) and put it back together.

Still doesn't run right. Not because of the injectors though. It will run all right, but then after about 10 minutes of driving it just cuts out and barely runs. I have to pull over with the flashers on. I wait 1 or 2 minutes and it will run all right again. I took it to a shop to do diagnostics and they said it's the mass air flow sensor. I don't believe it, but I did see that it's bad, but I don't think that it will fix the big problem. The guy said that he checked the pressure on the fuel pump and it was fine. But I think that it's a fuel pressure problem. I'll wait and see once the new part gets here. $70 on the internet and $580 at the shop and they couldn't get it.
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Old 02-14-2017, 05:29 PM
M-technik-3 M-technik-3 is offline
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Location: Western Mass
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,615
Mein Auto: 88 M3x2 86 330i 4 e36's
I would start with fuel filter first. Mileage? Did you just purchase this? Has the cap and rotor been done? Diagnose versus throwing money at it.
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