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6 Series
The BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 05-09-2012, 09:49 AM
zimmebri zimmebri is offline
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04 645 Dynamic Drive Malfunction, 13k miles, $2k bill

Hello,

I've owned my 04 645 for a year now and I've seen the Dynamic Drive Malfunction pop up twice within the past few weeks. Reading through the other threads, I wanted to give my specifics:

- error occurs after driving for 30 min +
- error occurred at a stop light
- dealer claims fluid level is fine because these cars have sensors for that (haven't checked)
- 13,000 miles
- dealer wants to replace the valve block (part 37-20-6-781-488) at a tune of $1700 ($1100 part, $500 labor, $100 tax.
- New battery as of last summer

I doubt the error is low voltage. Can the valve block really be messed up at 13k miles? I understand the car is 8 years old but I am looking for some fixes or negotiation power. Secondly, what risks do I take if I choose to wait for six months to replace the block?

Thanks,

Brian
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  #2  
Old 05-09-2012, 12:13 PM
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Leslierc Leslierc is offline
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Check the fluid levels yourself. I had this same warning occur when I owned my 645Cic and my service person directed me to check the fluids, which I did, and it happened that one of the fluids (transmission I think) was low. I added tot he fill point and the warnings went away.
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  #3  
Old 05-09-2012, 03:04 PM
tampamark tampamark is online now
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LeslieRC was almost there on the fluid check, it is the Power Steering not the tranny fluid. The hydraulic system for the power steering and dynamic drive are shared. The reservoir is on the left when you open the hood and look in.

I had the same problem and it was the ASR block failure. My car was fine, I could be sitting at a light and BING, the Dynamic Drive failure. It would go away or come back. Battery was fine, fluid was fine. ASR block sensor was bad. I am not sure about negotiating power, your car is out of warranty by a long shot. It doesn't matter if you had 2 miles on it, that is why warranties have a time and a mileage limit!

Here is a thread that I had regarding my fix. In the thread some folks allude to a DIY on the 7 forum, so it might behoove you to search if you are mechanically inclined or have a decent indie.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...460&highlight=

Last edited by tampamark; 05-09-2012 at 03:08 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-09-2012, 05:19 PM
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Yorgi Yorgi is offline
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Found the thread for the 7 series valve block DIY thanks to Herb's hint in Mark's thread.
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Last edited by Yorgi; 05-09-2012 at 05:20 PM.
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  #5  
Old 05-09-2012, 06:17 PM
tampamark tampamark is online now
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Excellent find Yorgi. As Tom Hanks so eloquently said..."WWWIIIILLLSSSSOOOONNNN"

Now the OP can go on the easter egg hunt to find an block on ebay and junkyards to acquire the valves and solenoids!
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  #6  
Old 10-17-2012, 12:08 AM
mr bm ac6 mr bm ac6 is offline
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bro there is no risk ive had my dynamick drive malfunction lighton ever since ive had the car for almost 3 years and my car has 22 whit eyback suspension so no problems drive it for another 6 moths
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  #7  
Old 10-17-2012, 01:00 PM
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coug60 coug60 is online now
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Ive had this problem come up a couple of times a year now on my 650. Turning off the car then restarting it or letting it sit for a short while makes it go away.
So not wanting to really fix something that isn't broke yet and to make sure I understand the information correctly on the Dynamic Drive Failure...
The Power Steering fluid level should be checked (maybe then the battery) prior to surgery...? Also is there a way to maybe flush the PS system and replace the fluids...?
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  #8  
Old 10-18-2012, 06:42 AM
RUSSDOGG RUSSDOGG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coug60 View Post
Ive had this problem come up a couple of times a year now on my 650. Turning off the car then restarting it or letting it sit for a short while makes it go away.
So not wanting to really fix something that isn't broke yet and to make sure I understand the information correctly on the Dynamic Drive Failure...
The Power Steering fluid level should be checked (maybe then the battery) prior to surgery...? Also is there a way to maybe flush the PS system and replace the fluids...?
Hey Coug60, I had the same problem on my 2009 650i. I give the full details of the issue on another thread (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=7136302). In my case it was the IVM Module. Apparently, this thing can malfunction and is not easy to diagnose. And you will see random errors (i.e., Drive Malfunction, ABS Failure, check engine light, and / or after driving fine, car won't start, or will cut off, but will start after waiting 5 - 10 minutes). I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Russ
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  #9  
Old 10-18-2012, 06:07 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Mine goes of every once in a while. I usually only drive the car once a week, so the battery might be somewhat weak. It has always resets itself with a turn of the key. I do not think that I have ever seen it store a code in the ECM. I do not use a battery charger to maintain the battery level, so it's hard to say if it is voltage related? When mine stays on constantly, I will come up with a game plan.

You can worry yourself to death, over the problems related to these cars!
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  #10  
Old 03-20-2014, 08:25 PM
colink colink is offline
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Location: Oklahoma
 
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Mein Auto: 2004 645Ci Convertible
Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmebri View Post
Hello,

I've owned my 04 645 for a year now and I've seen the Dynamic Drive Malfunction pop up twice within the past few weeks. Reading through the other threads, I wanted to give my specifics:

- error occurs after driving for 30 min +
- error occurred at a stop light
- dealer claims fluid level is fine because these cars have sensors for that (haven't checked)
- 13,000 miles
- dealer wants to replace the valve block (part 37-20-6-781-488) at a tune of $1700 ($1100 part, $500 labor, $100 tax.
- New battery as of last summer

I doubt the error is low voltage. Can the valve block really be messed up at 13k miles? I understand the car is 8 years old but I am looking for some fixes or negotiation power. Secondly, what risks do I take if I choose to wait for six months to replace the block?

Thanks,

Brian
I have the same issue and the same proposal from the dealer on my '04 645 with 10300 miles. How did your experience turn out please Brian?
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  #11  
Old 03-20-2014, 08:38 PM
tampamark tampamark is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colink View Post
I have the same issue and the same proposal from the dealer on my '04 645 with 10300 miles. How did your experience turn out please Brian?
I am not sure he is here, he had that one post and never returned to respond to any of the input and has never posted again. Maybe he read it and that was good enough. Anyway, as everyone who chimed in, it could be a whole lot of things.

Start by checking the fluid. When does it happen, if it is when you first start the car, then you may just be low on fluid. I found if you are marginally low then when the fluid is cold you would get an error, then as the fluid heats up and expands the error would go away. If it is really low then it would happen immediately and at any time. But for me it was just random, hot, cold, stopped, moving, it didn't matter.

If you have other errors that are occuring then it could be voltage or IVM related. If it is just that single error then could be valve block. If you don't have DIS or INPA to pull codes yourself then you should go have it checked by an independent who would be cheaper than the dealer. Do you not trust the dealer's diagnosis? There will be a specific fault code occurring for a failed ARS. If you look at my original post above and click on the link I had to another thread you will see my diagnosis information from the dealer. Read the body of the sheet I scanned in from the dealer as it gives a lot of detail regarding the testing they performed and codes they read. If you review the resources linked you can see where others have repaired the valve block, maybe you could talk and independent into doing something like that?

Last edited by tampamark; 03-20-2014 at 08:41 PM.
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  #12  
Old 03-21-2014, 06:35 AM
colink colink is offline
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Location: Oklahoma
 
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Mein Auto: 2004 645Ci Convertible
Thanks Tampamark.

Fluid is fine. The problem occurs after driving about 40 miles and goes away when the car is restarted.

I have a Fidelity extended warranty and 300 miles ago the dealer changed the sensor on the steering column, but the problem came back. No other errors.

I expect the warranty to pay for the ARS replacement too. We shall see.

I will review the documentation you provided to improve my knowledge in case of further discussions with the dealer/Fidelity.
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2014, 02:52 PM
colink colink is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 645Ci Convertible
Tampamark,

I read your diagnostics sheet. It refers to Version 1 and Version 2, where Version 2 is incomplete.

Does Version 2 include anything different than Version 1 please?

The dealer called to say they expect an inspector from Fidelity on Monday.
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  #14  
Old 03-21-2014, 03:09 PM
tampamark tampamark is online now
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The second page just says the same as all of the text after the underline stops. About removing FR wheel and inner fender, removing fluids, testing, etc.

The fault code 5D5C seems to be the ARS block fault.
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  #15  
Old 03-21-2014, 05:40 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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My problem was due to the voltage regulator, over charging the battery. I know, the last thing to consider! If you check your voltage under the hood when you get the warning, it i most likely higher than 15 volts. Once the over voltage has taken place, the modules start going into protect mode. The modules must stay at 5 volts, or they will start shutting down. The Dynamic Drive module is usually the 1st module that shuts down. If you have DIS, the over voltage code will most likely be in the 2nd page. The VM is a 80.00 part, or a new alternator can be found on Ebay for around 300.00.

Good Luck!

Last edited by HerbP; 03-23-2014 at 11:50 AM.
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  #16  
Old 03-23-2014, 05:39 AM
colink colink is offline
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Thank you HerbP. I shall measure the voltage next time/if it occurs again!
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  #17  
Old 03-25-2014, 09:15 PM
MarkieMarkH MarkieMarkH is offline
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This is the problem I am having as well. Car only shows code 2828 when Dynamic Drive Malfunction light showing. Code goes away as soon as car is shut off. Mine is a 22K mile 2004 545i. I did a power steering fluid flush and the fluid came out very dirty for so few miles. It was still green but very dark and cloudy. I am guessing that this car may have sat for long periods of time before I bought it two months ago. I am also guessing that the solenoids that control the active swaybars may have become sticky. A seven year BMW tech suggested that instead of just going for an ARS block replacement that I continue to flush the system and do hard drives and turns in between to work the fluid through. I just did the third flush and the fluid is still coming out dirty. The good news is that I am going longer between warning lights now but when they do come on its always after a long cruise with few corners. My tech, who now works at an indy BMW only shop, quoted me an ARS block replacement with fluid and coding at right around $1,500 if it needs it but the next step would be to run the test that determines whether its the swaybars, lines, connectors or the block. The best price I've seen for a new block is just under $900. I could do the replacement myself but I'd need about $125 worth of coding and start up to get it finished. So call it about $1,050 with fluid.

To the techs on the board - How is the bleeding procedure done?
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  #18  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:50 AM
colink colink is offline
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Interesting that a common factor seems to be low mileage and consequent long periods of no driving.

I got my car back from the dealer yesterday and am attaching the diagnostics/invoice, which was paid by my Fidelity Platinum Extended Warranty.

I would note for MarkieMarkH that the quote from your indie does not appear to be significantly less than my dealer charged.

I will update my Fidelity warranty thread too for everyone's reference.
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2014, 10:17 AM
MarkieMarkH MarkieMarkH is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colink View Post
Interesting that a common factor seems to be low mileage and consequent long periods of no driving.

I got my car back from the dealer yesterday and am attaching the diagnostics/invoice, which was paid by my Fidelity Platinum Extended Warranty.

I would note for MarkieMarkH that the quote from your indie does not appear to be significantly less than my dealer charged.

I will update my Fidelity warranty thread too for everyone's reference.
That was a good deal coming from a dealer. My understanding is that they have two "books" to define the job hours, one for retail customers and one for warranty work. This job definitely looks like it was billed on the lower warranty scale (which is also how my indy charges for all jobs). My guy will let me source my own block as long as it is new and OEM - Looks like I could save a couple of hundred there.

Also - I see the trend of cars sitting and causing ARS block problems too. Makes me wonder if a good cleaning of the ARS valve block might be in order before a full replacement is done?

Last edited by MarkieMarkH; 03-26-2014 at 10:19 AM.
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2014, 11:07 AM
Seven40Five Seven40Five is offline
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Try replacing battery?

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  #21  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:15 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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Did either one of your repair shops run the Dynamic Drive hydraulic test? There are 2 sensors that can cause problems, to keep the DD from operating properly.I ran all my DD test, & everything looked fine. I changed the hydraulic reservoir & fluid, that did not help. I eliminated all of the maintenance items 1st, then decided the handling did not make that big of a difference. When I was working on something else, I noticed my over voltage problem. I ran a few more test, & identified the voltage regulator was bad. I was glad to only pay less than 80.00 to resolve the issue. I would have never thought that this could have been my problem?

German Engineering!
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  #22  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:22 PM
MarkieMarkH MarkieMarkH is offline
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Originally Posted by Seven40Five View Post
Try replacing battery?

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Battery, ibs and alternator all replaced within the last 30 days. Battery was also registered. My running voltage is right at 14.0V - 14.1V with no spikes. Fault code 2828 (only retrievable when running and the Dynamic Drive message up) says the ARS (valve block?) is not communicating with the DME (main computer). Car will drive for days with no warnings. Still need to run the big ARS test to identify which component not playing well with the others.
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