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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 08-22-2016, 08:28 PM
pmorrone pmorrone is offline
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Location: NY
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 54
Mein Auto: 2007 659i Conv
Convertible Top Latch Noise and Issues

Hi All...i have a 2007 650i convertible. I bought it 2 yrs ago. When i open or close the top the electric latch makes a kind of moaning errrrrrrrrr sound as it is operating. It has always worked but seem odd for it to be so noise.

Recently, three time now, when i try to open the top (put it down) it makes the moaning sound but the latch never disengages and the sound stops and the top just sits there....i have to press the close buttons...it moans again and then i press the open and so far it does open on the second try.

A few questions....

1-do they all make that moaning errrrrr sound?
2-is there any lubrication or other service that needs to be done?
3-any idea why it would not unlatch?

Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2016, 07:29 AM
FoxE 64 FoxE 64 is offline
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Location: Belgium
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 74
Mein Auto: 2009 630 E64
Hi pmorrone

I had exactly the same issue (noisy but still operating) and I presume there are many others out there. I could fix it myself but it is not a 5 minute job. This is what I did (I believe the below will also apply for E46 convertible and Z8):

STEP 1 - remove cowl panel trim
Remove the cowl panel trim. BMW workshop manual 54 34 127

Note: When operating the soft top with the panel removed, I noticed that the electromotor was having a hard time and turned extremely hot just after a few open- and close efforts. First I tried to lubricate the moving parts that were visible, but to no avail. In my case the problem was on the back side of the latch which is not accessible unless you remove them. If you are able to get smooth operation without removing anything further, feel free to try. You'll be finished after this step 1 then But I bet that it won't work.

STEP2 - remove top fastener
Remove latch mechanisms ('top fasteners'). BMW Workshop manual 54 34 159.
!!CAUTION!! You do not want to end up with a misaligned top:
- Only remove one top latch at a time, do not remove the second latch or its flex rod before you have completely re-installed the first latch. It doesn't matter which side you remove first, but the passenger side might be easier to start with since it doesnt have electrical connection.
- After removing flex rod, make sure that A) the motor stays in the exact same position and does NOT rotate [do NOT operate the top!] and B) you do NOT rotate the threaded axle of the latch you are removing. In case you did (they are not easily rotated unintenionally though...) you may need to follow the procedure '54 34 085' (Adjusting tensioning control element). I took good care so I didn't need to do so.

Take the fastener to a convenient work space.


STEP 3 - marking its position
Once you have removed the fastener, the FIRST thing you need to do is to mark its position (since you're going to manipulate and lubricate it; before re-installing, you want it to be in the exact same position as when you removed it). I did this by taking a photo to remember the 'general position' the latch is in, and by marking the end of the threaded axle to determine its 'precise position' (works great - of course only one mark will do):


STEP 4 - testing operation and lubricating
You can now safely test how easily the axle will rotate using the flex rod. If the flex rod in itself is difficult to rotate, you may lubricate that one as well by cutting of 0.5cm of the plastic protection and dripping in some chain oil (in my case I noticed improvement). Then, before you start lubricating the fastener, remove the following screws and parts first (they are on the back side of the fastener, image may be mirrored depending on which fastener you took out first):


With these screws and parts removed, test again operation of the fastener. If you notice significant improvement, you found the cause. I found that these screws were fastened too tight. For me, it was impossible to fix with lubrication only (I tried several to no avail: ball bearing grease, fine chain oil, silicone spray).

STEP 5: reset fastener to original position and mount in car. Repeat process for other fastener. Always remember to NOT operate the soft top when one of the flex rods is disconnected!

Note: You may also want to consider changing the two rubber O-rings, part number 54317043551 (part no.21). I found that one of them was broken.

If you are stuck at some point, I'll be glad to answer.
Good luck
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Last edited by FoxE 64; 08-26-2016 at 10:55 AM.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2017, 11:06 AM
Eclectic Taste Eclectic Taste is offline
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Location: Sacramento, CA
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 38
Mein Auto: 2007 M6
I just received a Class Action Lawsuit Settlement form for owners of E64's. Basically, all E64 owners are eligible for:

A) Software update,
B) Reimbursement for 2 repair attempts, and
C) Reimbursement for 1 complete top replacement

Deadline to apply for reimbursements are June 19, 2017.
Details at www.convertibletopsettlement.com
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