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6 Series
The BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 08-24-2014, 12:13 PM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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No voltage going to passenger Halo/Angel Eye?

I'm still trying to get this Halo situation sorted out, and am not getting much help so I went out and bought a voltmeter to test the voltage on each side as I have tried everything else that I can think of.

The voltage is at 0.0 when I test the passenger side connector, and at 32-33 when I test the working drivers side connector. The thing that is puzzling to me is the fact that this halo was working fine about 2 weeks ago until I went to swap it out for a new one...

Is there some kind of fuse that controls the halos? Do you guys have any suggestions on what I could test or look at?

This is frustrating the hell out of me. I took to the dealer on Thursday and they said that it was because the bulbs are aftermarket led halos, so I swapped in the normal bulbs out of my wife's e53 and once again the driver side worked and passenger side didn't, which is why I decided to buy a voltmeter.
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2002 745 LI (Sold)
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  #2  
Old 08-24-2014, 12:27 PM
sentrex sentrex is offline
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try swapping the little ballast from one side to the other ,that feeds power to the bulb
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2014, 12:59 PM
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roseng roseng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sentrex View Post
try swapping the little ballast from one side to the other ,that feeds power to the bulb
IF you are referring to the circle around the headlight they are called Angel Eyes.

There is no Ballast for the Angel Eye bulbs. It is a fuse issue.

Fuses are in the trunk and in the back of the glove box. There should be a diagram in the trunk with fuse positions if you don't have it do a search. The 645 and 650 are different, so make sure you get the correct one.
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  #4  
Old 08-24-2014, 01:14 PM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roseng View Post
IF you are referring to the circle around the headlight they are called Angel Eyes.

There is no Ballast for the Angel Eye bulbs. It is a fuse issue.

Fuses are in the trunk and in the back of the glove box. There should be a diagram in the trunk with fuse positions if you don't have it do a search. The 645 and 650 are different, so make sure you get the correct one.
Ok. Ill check the fuses when I get home later, and report back.
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  #5  
Old 08-24-2014, 03:35 PM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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Ok. I just checked fuses 5,6 and 19 which show as lighting on the fuse card. Both 5 and 6 are 50amp maxi fuses. Both appear to be in good working condition. I actually swapped them around and there was still no power to the passenger side connector. I also swapped out fuse 19, which is a 5 amp fuse, with a brand new 5 watt fuse and that still didn't help.

I'm at a loss on this issue now.

Is there any way to reset the electrical system in the car without taking it to the dealer? When the dealer looked at it the service guy did mention something about there being 60+ occurrences of errors for the passenger side parking light.. Could this cause the system to freeze up or go into a shutdown mode?
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2005 645 Ci (Current)
8000K HID Bulbs + 7W Ebay Halos + 21" 128 Style Wheels + K&N Air Filter +

2002 745 LI (Sold)
MagnaFlow Universal with Dual 4" Tips + MTec V3's + 8000K HID Bulbs + BTU8000 Bluetooth + ACS Roof Spoiler + K&N Air Filter + Akebono Pads +
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  #6  
Old 08-24-2014, 04:45 PM
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roseng roseng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawdog805 View Post
Ok. I just checked fuses 5,6 and 19 which show as lighting on the fuse card. Both 5 and 6 are 50amp maxi fuses. Both appear to be in good working condition. I actually swapped them around and there was still no power to the passenger side connector. I also swapped out fuse 19, which is a 5 amp fuse, with a brand new 5 watt fuse and that still didn't help.

I'm at a loss on this issue now.

Is there any way to reset the electrical system in the car without taking it to the dealer? When the dealer looked at it the service guy did mention something about there being 60+ occurrences of errors for the passenger side parking light.. Could this cause the system to freeze up or go into a shutdown mode?
Would not be a 50A fuse.
Also check 11, 13, 22, 24, 27, 40

Also with the car off, and the bulb disconnected, confirm that only one side shows direct to ground and there is no short on the power leg. The LM lighting modules will automatically clamp the voltage on a short or over current to protect the module.
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  #7  
Old 08-24-2014, 05:13 PM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roseng View Post
Would not be a 50A fuse.
Also check 11, 13, 22, 24, 27, 40

Also with the car off, and the bulb disconnected, confirm that only one side shows direct to ground and there is no short on the power leg. The LM lighting modules will automatically clamp the voltage on a short or over current to protect the module.
Just checked those fuse numbers (22&24 are for convertibles only) and they are all in good working condition.

I don't know how to confirm that only one side shows direct to ground and there is no short on the power leg..
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  #8  
Old 08-24-2014, 08:58 PM
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roseng roseng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawdog805 View Post
Just checked those fuse numbers (22&24 are for convertibles only) and they are all in good working condition.

I don't know how to confirm that only one side shows direct to ground and there is no short on the power leg..
Car off.
Set the multimeter to Ohms/resistance. Use the lowest scale maybe 200 Ohms.
Touch the 2 leads together and it should read Zero ohms (0)
Next connect either lead to chassis ground (there is a round post neat the red battery jump/charge point).
Touch the the other lead to each leg of the AE power connector.
One should read 0 and the other will be a high value or show no connection at all. If they both show 0 you have a short.
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  #9  
Old 08-24-2014, 09:30 PM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roseng View Post
Car off.
Set the multimeter to Ohms/resistance. Use the lowest scale maybe 200 Ohms.
Touch the 2 leads together and it should read Zero ohms (0)
Next connect either lead to chassis ground (there is a round post neat the red battery jump/charge point).
Touch the the other lead to each leg of the AE power connector.
One should read 0 and the other will be a high value or show no connection at all. If they both show 0 you have a short.
OK, so this is the one that I have below and I have the black lead connected to the bottom port and the red lead connected to the middle port. In order to test the ohms I have the knob set straight down to the 200 Ohms scale.. When I set it to this setting there is a constant 1 showing in the readout. So I touch the bottom black lead to the ground post on the car and then I touch the other lead to the each leg of the working power connector and the readout does not change from 1.. and that was the AE side, because my leads are to short to reach the other side and touch the ground on the car at the same time.

This is with the car off and the switch off.. Should I turn the switch on?

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2005 645 Ci (Current)
8000K HID Bulbs + 7W Ebay Halos + 21" 128 Style Wheels + K&N Air Filter +

2002 745 LI (Sold)
MagnaFlow Universal with Dual 4" Tips + MTec V3's + 8000K HID Bulbs + BTU8000 Bluetooth + ACS Roof Spoiler + K&N Air Filter + Akebono Pads +

Last edited by rawdog805; 08-24-2014 at 09:31 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-24-2014, 10:21 PM
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roseng roseng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawdog805 View Post
OK, so this is the one that I have below and I have the black lead connected to the bottom port and the red lead connected to the middle port. In order to test the ohms I have the knob set straight down to the 200 Ohms scale.. When I set it to this setting there is a constant 1 showing in the readout. So I touch the bottom black lead to the ground post on the car and then I touch the other lead to the each leg of the working power connector and the readout does not change from 1.. and that was the AE side, because my leads are to short to reach the other side and touch the ground on the car at the same time.

This is with the car off and the switch off.. Should I turn the switch on?

Dont use ohms with power on, it could blow the meter.
Is sounds like you may have an open not a short, meaning the ground is disconnected. Test the working connector adn see if it is the same. You can also use the other scales on ohms too. As long as you are testing like this you can't hurt anything.
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  #11  
Old 08-24-2014, 10:44 PM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roseng View Post
Dont use ohms with power on, it could blow the meter.
Is sounds like you may have an open not a short, meaning the ground is disconnected. Test the working connector adn see if it is the same. You can also use the other scales on ohms too. As long as you are testing like this you can't hurt anything.
The working connection was the first test. I have to find a ground spot on the passenger side before I can test the non working connection because the wires for my leads are really short.
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  #12  
Old 08-25-2014, 07:02 AM
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coug60 coug60 is offline
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Id check the connector first (both sides),I really cant see it being anything but that but if not then the appropriate fuse.
Then the wiring from the connector while your there, as far back as you can go for cuts, pinches and corrosion.
I would assume that if it was a fuse there would be other indications too but if not then Id check for a loose connection at the back of the fuse bank.
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  #13  
Old 08-25-2014, 07:11 AM
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roseng roseng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawdog805 View Post
The working connection was the first test. I have to find a ground spot on the passenger side before I can test the non working connection because the wires for my leads are really short.
If you have no choice, you can use any kind of wire to extend the test lead. Just wrap some wire around the test probe, and tape it in place and wrap it around the ground post. It's a terrible solution but it will work for a few minutes as long as you are only testing for a good ground.
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Last edited by roseng; 08-25-2014 at 07:14 AM.
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2014, 08:29 AM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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Ok. So I have tried and tested everything I could and still nothing. So I did a google search and stumbled upon another user who had this issue with their 3-series and he said he replaced his bulbs with factories and then took it to the dealership and they had to reset a module.

Another user responded and said "The FRM stores a short circuit every 3 times it detects a bulb out.
Bulb most likely failed and shut down the circuit because it was out for a bit before replacing.
Footwell module short circuit counter needs to be reset".

So ill be trying to do that in the near future.
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8000K HID Bulbs + 7W Ebay Halos + 21" 128 Style Wheels + K&N Air Filter +

2002 745 LI (Sold)
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:47 PM
kirkbar kirkbar is offline
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I just fixed this on my 08 e82. Had a aftermarket LED bulb cause a short on the passengers side. When the FRM module detects 60 counts of this - it shuts down the circuit.

I have a ODBII cable and used the EDIABAS Toolset32 PC application to reset the module. Here are the instructions I used from searching around. I used the command "_reset_kurzschluss_sperre" and used arguments 0-32. Rechecked the counter, and my circuit was enabled again.

Steps from another member:

- Connect cable to your car, launch Toolset32 and load FRM70.prg (for FRM2).

- In the window called Select job: FRM_70, select the job status_lampen_kurzschluss_counter. In the list Results select job_status and the lamp output which is shut off due to short circuit protection.

- Send the job to the car using the F5 key. You should get an answer in the Results window and the COUNTER value should be > 0. If COUNTER is = 0 then you didn't select the right lamp output. Try finding the one(s) which have COUNTER > 0. You will look at this value later to see if the short circuit reset-job actually worked.

- Now, switch job to steuern_reset_kurzschlussabschaltung. Notice that this job requires one (1) argument: lamp_nr. Lamp_nr is a number 0-255. Enter the lamp_nr to clear in the Arguments list and select job_status under Results.

- Send the job using F5. Make sure you get an answer OKAY in the Results window.

Note: I don't know the mapping between each lamp and lamp_nr, so I simply sent the command 64 times for all lamp_nr from 0 to 63. Try this - I guess it can't do any harm. Since lamp_nr is supposed to be an integer, I guess possible values for lamp_nr are 0-255.

When you have sent kurzschlussabschaltung-commands for all lamp_nr, do the first job again (check COUNTER). If everything is good, the counters which were > 0 before should now be = 0.

Also, I see there are two jobs which are named quite similar - steuern_lampen_kurzschlussabschaltung and _reset_kurzschluss_sperre. I don't know the difference between these two, but if one doesn't clear your counters, I would try the other one too. Both jobs require the lamp_nr-argument.
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2014, 05:04 PM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkbar View Post
I just fixed this on my 08 e82. Had a aftermarket LED bulb cause a short on the passengers side. When the FRM module detects 60 counts of this - it shuts down the circuit.

I have a ODBII cable and used the EDIABAS Toolset32 PC application to reset the module. Here are the instructions I used from searching around. I used the command "_reset_kurzschluss_sperre" and used arguments 0-32. Rechecked the counter, and my circuit was enabled again.

Steps from another member:

- Connect cable to your car, launch Toolset32 and load FRM70.prg (for FRM2).

- In the window called Select job: FRM_70, select the job status_lampen_kurzschluss_counter. In the list Results select job_status and the lamp output which is shut off due to short circuit protection.

- Send the job to the car using the F5 key. You should get an answer in the Results window and the COUNTER value should be > 0. If COUNTER is = 0 then you didn't select the right lamp output. Try finding the one(s) which have COUNTER > 0. You will look at this value later to see if the short circuit reset-job actually worked.

- Now, switch job to steuern_reset_kurzschlussabschaltung. Notice that this job requires one (1) argument: lamp_nr. Lamp_nr is a number 0-255. Enter the lamp_nr to clear in the Arguments list and select job_status under Results.

- Send the job using F5. Make sure you get an answer OKAY in the Results window.

Note: I don't know the mapping between each lamp and lamp_nr, so I simply sent the command 64 times for all lamp_nr from 0 to 63. Try this - I guess it can't do any harm. Since lamp_nr is supposed to be an integer, I guess possible values for lamp_nr are 0-255.

When you have sent kurzschlussabschaltung-commands for all lamp_nr, do the first job again (check COUNTER). If everything is good, the counters which were > 0 before should now be = 0.

Also, I see there are two jobs which are named quite similar - steuern_lampen_kurzschlussabschaltung and _reset_kurzschluss_sperre. I don't know the difference between these two, but if one doesn't clear your counters, I would try the other one too. Both jobs require the lamp_nr-argument.
Wow. Thanks for this info. Which cable do you have? And do you have any links for the software?
__________________
2005 645 Ci (Current)
8000K HID Bulbs + 7W Ebay Halos + 21" 128 Style Wheels + K&N Air Filter +

2002 745 LI (Sold)
MagnaFlow Universal with Dual 4" Tips + MTec V3's + 8000K HID Bulbs + BTU8000 Bluetooth + ACS Roof Spoiler + K&N Air Filter + Akebono Pads +
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  #17  
Old 08-29-2014, 06:45 AM
kirkbar kirkbar is offline
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Originally Posted by rawdog805 View Post
Wow. Thanks for this info. Which cable do you have? And do you have any links for the software?
Check out this forum for all your coding questions: http://www.bmwcoding.com

I think I bought my cable from one of the reputable suppliers. Don't get one off eBay as they are crap.
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  #18  
Old 08-29-2014, 03:53 PM
rawdog805 rawdog805 is offline
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Went to the dealer today just to ask them how much it would cost if I had them reset the FRM/Footwell module. They told me that there is no way to reset those modules, you need a brand new one. WTF.. I'm convinced that they are just in business to steal people's money. Sheesh, is anyone honest nowadays?
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2005 645 Ci (Current)
8000K HID Bulbs + 7W Ebay Halos + 21" 128 Style Wheels + K&N Air Filter +

2002 745 LI (Sold)
MagnaFlow Universal with Dual 4" Tips + MTec V3's + 8000K HID Bulbs + BTU8000 Bluetooth + ACS Roof Spoiler + K&N Air Filter + Akebono Pads +
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