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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-08-2016, 01:04 PM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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Help ticking on e39 inline 6 cyl!!!!!

Okay guys here's the video.

Car originally had whining issues while driving plus rough idle. Code p1345 (cyl 2 misfire with fuel cut off) ... Replaced coil pack bam all good. One week later. This happens.

Ticks faster with acceleration. Constant tick in idle. Apparently idk how to load a video; so if someone enlightens me how. Then I'll post the video.
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2016, 01:14 PM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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WHAT THE ****. How do I not have any oil? Where the **** is it going to? I have no leaks accept a SMALL oil pan gasket leak. I replaced VCG. VANOS isn't leaking. Idk
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2016, 01:19 PM
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TheAngryBear TheAngryBear is online now
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Upload the video to YouTube then post the link

Check your coolant to ensure it isn't going there.
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2016, 05:27 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by Riskshot View Post
WHAT THE ****. How do I not have any oil? Where the **** is it going to? I have no leaks accept a SMALL oil pan gasket leak. I replaced VCG. VANOS isn't leaking. Idk
Bingo!!! You've found your problem, low oil can create engine ticking. These M54 engines love to drink oil, it's a known issue.
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2016, 06:03 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riskshot View Post
WHAT THE ****. How do I not have any oil? Where the **** is it going to? I have no leaks accept a SMALL oil pan gasket leak. I replaced VCG. VANOS isn't leaking. Idk
When did you last check the oil level?
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  #6  
Old 11-09-2016, 06:59 AM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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I was using mobile 1. I live in Michigan where the weather is dropping and raising. Last time I checked oil was a month or month and a half ago. If that. Was 2.5-3qt low. I just switched oil to castrol edge European formula 0w-40w. Small oil leak on pan but not to get me 3qt low in a month. I used sea foam to clean injectors, and I plan on doing the vacuum as well. I'm thinking CCV still?? Idk. Oil is NOT in coolant. Coolant is nice and green. But do have a low coolant light on. Also burning gas up like crazy. No codes though, even took to a dealership as well. "Nothing is wrong with your vehicle"
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  #7  
Old 11-09-2016, 07:37 AM
elahmad elahmad is offline
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Riskshot BMW recommends to not use Additives like seafoam and what not
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  #8  
Old 11-09-2016, 07:47 AM
crobmw crobmw is offline
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0w is too thin....i think than 5w is more suitable....unless you rech polar temperatures in winter...which i doubt....
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  #9  
Old 11-09-2016, 07:51 AM
MKJS MKJS is online now
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You also must have a sensor out. When my oil gets low the computer has always said, "Check Oil Level." You're going to need to keep up with oil level much better or your going to be selling, "as is, needs new motor."

Next goal will be finding out where your oil is going.

Jim
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2016, 11:25 AM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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I've been trying, and I know this which is what I'm trying to avoid. But I've seriously looked everywhere. I cannot tell where it is going. And a buddy of mine recommended 0w to help see if there's any possible leaks in driveway. Still no sign
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2016, 11:29 AM
MKJS MKJS is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riskshot View Post
I've been trying, and I know this which is what I'm trying to avoid. But I've seriously looked everywhere. I cannot tell where it is going. And a buddy of mine recommended 0w to help see if there's any possible leaks in driveway. Still no sign
Likely going out the tail pipe if you're not seeing oil all over the ground. You could do a compression, or preferably a leak down test, though it's likely the oil rings that are letting the oil get by, still, a compression check could be of value.

I'd suggest a bad ccv system.

A piston soak may help but if t's a bad ccv system any help would be temporary because the ccv system will just foul the rings again.

Jim

Last edited by MKJS; 11-09-2016 at 11:31 AM.
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  #12  
Old 11-09-2016, 11:37 AM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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Any place I should buy the CCV at? I seen kits for like 130-180. I will need the winterized one.
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2016, 11:39 AM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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Thing is I only paid 1,400 for the car. Which is a steal because I had 13k in receipts with all the work done. New suspension. New tires winter and summer, yokohamas actually. Also replaced all the cooling system, etc etc. he was a lawyer and got ripped off by dealers. Only thing I needed to do was replace a VCG and coil pack. But the whistling makes me believe it's a CCV. Just am nervous on taking off that intake. Job looks like a nightmare with all the plugs and hoses
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2016, 11:49 AM
MKJS MKJS is online now
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I am not real familiar with the 6 ccv system, know it only from what I have read here. I believe you will need poly-drive sockets, and HF sells a very thin ratchet that should let you un screw the part of the system back near the fire wall hopefully without stripping any of the heads. Most things here are quite do-able for the average diy parson with some tools and some hootspa.

I'm sure someone with more 6 exp will be able to help you far more than I will, but I do think you are on the right track.

Oh, and make sure any whistling isn't coming from the fan/fan clutch. Matter of fact , if they haven't been replaced I'd throw those on asap to prevent needing to get the hood painted.

Jim

Last edited by MKJS; 11-09-2016 at 11:55 AM.
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2016, 12:12 PM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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Thank you! I appreciate that much, I'll definitely take a look didn't even think of that!
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  #16  
Old 11-09-2016, 04:55 PM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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the ccv can be replaced without removing the intake manifold. search for the diy's on here. did one myself that way, took about 3 hrs. id recommend going ahead and replacing all the CCV hoses at the same time, they do get brittle and crack. standard torx bits took mine off, a t30 if i remember correctly.
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2016, 05:09 PM
MKJS MKJS is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmar1 View Post
the ccv can be replaced without removing the intake manifold. search for the diy's on here. did one myself that way, took about 3 hrs. id recommend going ahead and replacing all the CCV hoses at the same time, they do get brittle and crack. standard torx bits took mine off, a t30 if i remember correctly.
Hey Matt, I am under the impression that bmw uses a lot of poly-drive, which look like torques but are rounded at the bottom end, not flat like the torques. Using a torque bit on a poly-drive can lead to stripping the head of the bolt/screw. Please correct me if I am wrong about this.

Jim
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2016, 06:24 PM
spoddye39 spoddye39 is offline
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The CCV on the M52 can be removed fairly easily without removing the intake manifold by removing the air filter housing, MAF, and inlet boot as one piece (10 minutes max) which gives you enough room to get to the CCV. Probably similar on the M54, not sure which you have.

I use a Torx set on my car - they always seemed to fit well. I'll look closer at the end next time I'm doing something.

Spod
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2016, 10:35 PM
Sroor9001 Sroor9001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoddye39 View Post
The CCV on the M52 can be removed fairly easily without removing the intake manifold by removing the air filter housing, MAF, and inlet boot as one piece (10 minutes max) which gives you enough room to get to the CCV. Probably similar on the M54, not sure which you have.

I use a Torx set on my car - they always seemed to fit well. I'll look closer at the end next time I'm doing something.

Spod
For m54 you have to remove air box and boots also throttle body , disa valve , electrical connections
Then 3 bolts for the ccv
Or you can bypass it by one hose from the valve cover to the port of vacuum intake
Or do this modification with pcv valve

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-problems.html



Last edited by Sroor9001; 11-09-2016 at 10:36 PM.
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  #20  
Old 11-10-2016, 01:23 AM
titaniume39m titaniume39m is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crobmw View Post
0w is too thin....i think than 5w is more suitable....unless you rech polar temperatures in winter...which i doubt....
I'm running the same 0w-40 in my 2002 530i with 133K and it goes 2500 on a quart and runs and sounds fine. Castrols website recommended this weight oil for my car.
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  #21  
Old 11-10-2016, 06:25 PM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKJS View Post
Hey Matt, I am under the impression that bmw uses a lot of poly-drive, which look like torques but are rounded at the bottom end, not flat like the torques. Using a torque bit on a poly-drive can lead to stripping the head of the bolt/screw. Please correct me if I am wrong about this.

Jim
evenin Jim:
when i became aware of the existence of the polydrive sockets, on here of course, i got a complete set to have if needed. when doing my ccv, i test fitted both the polydrive and standard torx, and found the torx fitted better tighter and deeper so i used it. ive since read on here that the polydrive are only used on certain bolts on the V8 engine. but then again ive read that certain bolts on the I6 use them. i just test for the best fitment and use those, which so far on my 528 has been all torx.

btw. when changing the ccv valve on the I6, the throttle body must be removed, elstwhise the ccv is trapped in. when replacing the throttle body. always use a new seal for the engine side of it.

your 2002 525i is fully drive by wire, so handle the throttle body carefully after removing, and dont open then let snap back the throttle plate.
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.

Last edited by mattmar1; 11-10-2016 at 06:28 PM.
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  #22  
Old 11-14-2016, 09:43 AM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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Okay back with conclusions.

So over the weekend I had a guy on Craigslist who had an actual scanner. He charged me $40 for diag. We drove it checked for codes, if anything was acting right; turned off fuel injectors one at a time blah blah blah even did coil packs....
Came across two things, MAF was a little off but we cleaned it (he thought it was due to just a little lag in the system while plugged in) I concur..

Anyways he turned on and off my DISA and it was a pretty crazy winding noise going on when he turned it ON. Nothing changed either ON/OFF position. So still running ouch at idle. Anyways I bought a new one.

But my question is out of all this... Why would I be loosing so much oil, if it's just my DISA. I mean 2 weeks ago was 2.5qts now I'm shy again. So almost 4-5qts/month? I don't even drive far. I'm still thinking its CCV but thank god I got to that DISA in the correct time.
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  #23  
Old 11-14-2016, 03:07 PM
MKJS MKJS is online now
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Many times the oil rings get clogged up, perhaps because of poor crank ventilation, anyway, this causes extreme oil consumption. Some have put in a catch can, others have done piston soaks. If your not dripping it, it has to go somewhere, out the tail pipe is the next place to look. Repair the ccv system then read up on the piston soak would be my suggestion.

Jim
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  #24  
Old 11-15-2016, 12:19 PM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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Thanks Jim, can I do a sea foam through the intake boot hose? Maybe help clear out the build up of deposits? Also what would you recommend? Catch can or just replace CCV? I will look into the piston soak, any tips or recommendations for it? I have my thanksgiving break coming up for work I would really like to kinda mass overhaul a tune up for the winter. Got to keep my girl happy
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  #25  
Old 11-17-2016, 01:35 AM
Riskshot Riskshot is offline
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I believe I found my culprit. CCV is in order. She is parked and done for. I plan on replacing CCV, oil change, got a new DISA (just because) so if anyone wants an old DISA, with worn seals I can get you info. Everything still in tact on old one...

Then I want to run seafoam or some type of cleaner to clean the hell out of my intank, and possibly next week on my holiday break piston soak.. Sound like a good plan? Anything else I should check/replace while everything is out?
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