E30 325 Rear wheel bearing change out

've been banging and pushing on the driver side rear wheel bearing for a couple of days now and it has not budged.

Based on the way the wheel was toed out I suspect that the bearing is bent and stuck in the trailing arm; it does not look smooth, (I've torn the front cover off and can now see inside the bearing).
The balls appear to have driven grooves into the bearing casing!

Any ideas on getting it unstuck would be appreciated.

Thanks

Where in NC are you? Sounds like you may need the special bearing tool.

I'm in the Fort Bragg area.
At this point I have torn out the inner races and have the shell or enclosure of the bearing stuck in the trailing arm.
Years of wear and weight has caused the bearings to actually press it's own enclosure outward and it is tightly hugging the inside of the trailing arm.
I have been trying to use a cold chisel to get under it and bend a little but the metal is extremely hard.
Tomorrow I plan to use a Sawzall type saw with a 26 tpi blade. Today using a 14 tpi blade didn't make a dent in the bearing casing at all.

Thanks for asking

Some carefully placed heat can also make a difference-especially if the bearing casing is fused due to heat!

Originally Posted by JAKE325

Some carefully placed heat can also make a difference-especially if the bearing casing is fused due to heat!

+1

Have you tried a bearing driver to knock it out? It's how I did mine.

I haven't tried a bearing driver but I've tried everything else to knock it ouit.

Today I was able to slice it up pretty good with a Rigid Sawzall type device and a RemCut 24 tpi carbide blade.
I then took a cold chisel and was able to knock a few chucks out but finally gave up and decided to turn the matter over to the pro's.

Just for info Home Depot has a lot of heavy duty equipment that can be rented on a four hour , daily, weekly or monthly basis.
They also had the blades for the Sawzall which did the job quite well it's just the angle that I was only able to work from was causing too much damage to the trailing arm.
In order to completely cut through the bearing I would have to cut at least an half inch slice into the rear of the trailing arm as well as suffer cuts to the front of it where the circlip needs to seat.
Consequently enough damage done by the rookie and now it's time for the pro's to solve it.

Thanks for your advice and help.