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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E46 (1999 - 2006)

E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 11-02-2008, 03:37 PM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingspan View Post
2 November 2008, 57,845: Performed mileage based change of air filter.

Parts / Consumables

1 x OEM Air Filter, $23.09 with BMW CCA Discount, Fields BMW Winter Park Fl.

.
Dude, ya got killed on that filter......http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...2@Air%20Filter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #52  
Old 11-08-2008, 01:16 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 W906
8 November 2008, 58,015: Diagnostic procedure, to determine why right side head light output has a significant deficit in pattern.

Tools

T25 x 150mm Torx T-handle bit
8 mm socket on 12" extention
#2 Philips
1/8" Flatblade
Magnetic Pickup Tool

Results

Basically: See picture number two. I've concluded the heat of the Xenon bulb over the past six years has burnt away the silvering on the primary reflector. The "brown" pattern you see in the picture on the right hand side, corresponds EXACTLY to the light pattern of the right hand light when driving the car. This also aligns with the fact that it was my impression that over the past 18 months/year that the light has been getting progressively worse and worse.

I examined the housing on the bench, after I was able to separate the lens from the housing. Basically from what I could tell there are no real user replaceable parts, on the inside of the light. I looked on www.realoem.com and did not see that the primary reflector was listed; just the full on Xenon housing/assembly at $863.00 each.

Yikes.

Anyway, so getting the unit in and out was fairly painless; two T25 bolts and two 8mm bolts. You have to undo the #2 philips to get the side light out; and wriggle the various trim pieces out of the way. Picture number one is the whole housing sitting in position on the car.

The inner torx bolt is most fiddly, its buried about 6" inside and behind the grill. I used my (very) handy magnetic pickup tool to work the bolt into position and snug it down. I've dropped my fair share of nuts and bolts into the Mini over the years; I'd say a magnetic pickup tool is an essential workshop item.

FWIW, there are four electrical connectors on the housing; you have to depress the catch on the side of each then lever the connector away from the housing. I used the flat blade screwdriver to help these along and slide off.

At this point my options are either to continue to drive the car with fog lights (to fill in the light pattern), replace with OEM at $1,600 or so, or go aftermarket e.g. DEPO units.

Hmmmm....
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“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

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  #53  
Old 11-08-2008, 01:20 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smolck View Post
Dude, ya got killed on that filter......http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...2@Air%20Filter
Yes, but Smolck, I can assure you I drank $10 worth of fancy-pants BMW coffee in the lounge surfing the 'fest.

And I got to sit in an M6 and make vroom-vroom noises, too.
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- J.C. Watts Jr.
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  #54  
Old 11-08-2008, 01:54 PM
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QuantumJump QuantumJump is offline
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Mein Auto: 2005 - 330 Ci ZBC ZAM
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingspan View Post

30 Aug 2006: Dealer Visit: 30580 miles. Inspection I. Complained about Alcantara on steering wheel tearing/loose. Dealer replaced steering wheel with M3 OEM Leather wheel free of charge.
My Alacantara steering wheel is driving me nuts, it's nasty matted/sticky, I don't be liking it. When you say "tearing/loose" what do you mean? Do I have to take an exacto knife and rip it to shreds to get my wheel replaced with a leather M3 oem one?
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  #55  
Old 11-08-2008, 03:19 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuantumJump View Post
My Alacantara steering wheel is driving me nuts, it's nasty matted/sticky, I don't be liking it. When you say "tearing/loose" what do you mean? Do I have to take an exacto knife and rip it to shreds to get my wheel replaced with a leather M3 oem one?
The fabric was tearing off in small strips due to wear, almost like it was delaminating. I very politely requested it be looked at by the Service Manager, they took care of it for me. IIRC the early model wheels (mine is 2003) had some sort of defect in the fabric. At any rate, they were not surprised by my request. Although I do miss the fuzzy wheel sometimes, the M3 OEM leather model suits the car very well.
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- J.C. Watts Jr.
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  #56  
Old 11-16-2008, 04:45 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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15 November 2008, 58,534: Received another order of parts for the Valve Cover Gasket replacement DIY planned in the near future. The water pump pulley is because I assume I will mangle the current one getting it off the car during the coolant service.

16 x 11121437395 - Valve Cover Grommet Gasket; Valve Cover Nut Seal $0.93 ea
1 x 11129070990 - Valve Cover Gasket Set $24.70
1 x 11511436590 - Water Pump Pulley $29.95

All these items from www.autohausaz.com.
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“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.

Last edited by MMME30W; 11-16-2008 at 04:49 PM.
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  #57  
Old 11-16-2008, 06:03 PM
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smolck smolck is offline
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[QUOTE=wingspan;3705750] The water pump pulley is because I assume I will mangle the current one getting it off the car during the coolant service.
[QUOTE]

Good call! My fan was pretty "seized" on the end of my pump and I broke mine getting it off. Only had this happen once though.....
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Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #58  
Old 11-23-2008, 04:11 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 W906
22/23 November 2008, 58,746: Performed mileage based replacement of valve cover gasket.

Parts/consumables

15 x 11121437395 - Valve Cover Grommet Gasket; Valve Cover Nut Seal $0.93 ea
1 x 11129070990 - Valve Cover Gasket Set $24.70
1 x Permatex High Temp (Red) RTV gasket sealer

DIY Followed

http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/valve.php

Tools

T30 x 50 mm wrench for the cabin microfilter
Magnetic Pickup
8mm and 10mm sockets for the valve cover bolts
13mm socket for my M3 OEM strut bar
1/2" U-joint
1/4" torque wrench
3/8" torque wrench

Notes

Pretty much went by the book here. I took the evening Saturday to remove the valve cover, and then this morning to put it back together. I have the Bosch coils, not the Bremi's. I would definitely put the gaskets in the channels on the cover first, then put it all back together. The two wires for the oxygen sensors are a major PITA to route back around and onto the cover with their clips.

Only potential snag - I dropped a small piece of the old internal gasket into the head. Car seems to run fine, but I really wish I had not done that. Oh well.

Also - I should have done this at the same time I did the plugs. In fact, I would do both of these items (plugs and gaskets) at the same time at 60K. The condition of the gaskets was very poor; there was oil visible outside the gasket, and the gaskets themselves were very brittle and stiff in some places, especially at the back. This definitely was the source of the wiff of burnt oil I was smelling lately.

Pictures are:

#1 - Valve cover up upside down. Note the channels where the gasket goes in around the edge, as well as the six center gasket holes.

#2 - Picture of the timing chain and valve train with valve cover removed

#3 - The old gasket set and rubber grommets.
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__________________
“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.

Last edited by MMME30W; 12-06-2008 at 05:13 PM.
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  #59  
Old 11-23-2008, 04:15 PM
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smolck smolck is offline
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This is scary wingy! I just did this same thing this very afternoon for a fester. It was part 2 of the oil separator replacement. It took me about 1.5 hours and I had never done it before. All I can say is, wow, that "rubber" they use get's brittle! My car is next.....
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #60  
Old 11-24-2008, 01:16 AM
e46_platform e46_platform is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 330Ci 5M sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisL View Post
Mine in a bit easier to read format:

http://www.linquist.net/motorsports/bmw (scroll down to the maintenance table)
i saw your nice log earlier, Kris

but since i was concerned about the rough low gears shifting due to the somewhat clumsy clutch, and i did some research on the CDV last night, i focus on the CDV in your maintenance log this time....

seems like u've suffered the factory stupid design of this for 10k miles too

but u said u only removed it? instead of getting a new one emptied by zeckhausen?

i was thinking to get one from zeckhausen.... but if i DIY the installation, i'd have to buy some new tools including a set of higher jackstands, and a high and stronger jack, and the special wrenches... and i don't plan to DIY my car as much as you do...

would u recommend the shop you told me last time (Bavarian Motorsport) for this simple job? would they overdo it? i mean shall i find a cheaper bmw specialist since this task isn't that complicated?

Last edited by e46_platform; 11-24-2008 at 01:27 AM.
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  #61  
Old 11-24-2008, 08:49 AM
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KrisL KrisL is offline
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Mein Auto: 330i ZHP
Quote:
Originally Posted by e46_platform View Post
]
would u recommend the shop you told me last time (Bavarian Motorsport) for this simple job? would they overdo it? i mean shall i find a cheaper bmw specialist since this task isn't that complicated?
December is uber busy for me, you can come over here and I'll help you pull it out in early Jan...and yeah, it's a free mod, no use getting the one from Zeckhausen unless you are still under warranty and concerned about that..
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  #62  
Old 11-24-2008, 12:14 PM
e46_platform e46_platform is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisL View Post
December is uber busy for me, you can come over here and I'll help you pull it out in early Jan...and yeah, it's a free mod, no use getting the one from Zeckhausen unless you are still under warranty and concerned about that..
wow.. great! you are so amazing Kris
i'd really appreciate that... just let me know when u get time. no rush. i can still live w/ it for a while

now i get the idea of that mod. replacement... it's not to fill the space gap, but to make the stealership thought that there hasn't been such a mod, so that the warranty is still valid.
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  #63  
Old 12-06-2008, 05:12 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 W906
5 December 2008, 59,574: Performed mileage based oil service.

1) 7xquarts of BMW OEM oil. 1xMann OEM filter. Nothing new, just used my old Mitivac suction unit. Worked fine.

2) Removed and replaced wheels. Recoated hub landings with anti-sieze. Inspected brake pads and rotors, all fine. Pads and rotors wearing nicely.

3) Discovered L/F wheel weight dangling by adhesive. Re-attached wheel weight with a hot glue gun and overlaid a strip of duct tape. Glad to have discovered this in the garage.
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“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.

Last edited by MMME30W; 10-02-2010 at 04:39 AM.
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  #64  
Old 12-07-2008, 12:37 PM
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bimmerblack bimmerblack is offline
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Location: Mexico / Dallas.
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 970
Mein Auto: 318 Coupe / E46 328i
Wow guys, i love the ZHP sedan...hmmm, i've always been a coupe guy, but as i've been getting older i've been considering one of these as the next ride
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  #65  
Old 12-13-2008, 02:26 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 W906
13 December 2008, 59,973: Performed repair/replacement of Bi-Xenon Projector Bowls and Headlamp covers.

DIY Followed:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=332078

Parts:

From www.bavauto.com:
- 63 12 6 923 411 (Headlight lens left)
- 63 12 6 923 412 (Headlight lens right)
- 2 x Headlight lens gasket 63128380210

From Ebay Auction:
- 2xBMW ZKW D2S Projector assemblies

Total cost: approximately $450. I am very satisfied with the results, and now have virtually brand new, bright clear OEM ZKW lights.
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“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.
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  #66  
Old 12-28-2008, 03:48 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 W906
24 December 2008, 60,305: Painted right side rocker cover/sill. Paint (A08, silver gray) and clearcoat obtained previously from www.paintscratch.com.

Reference Thread: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...424&highlight=

The repair is not bad. It's my first body work, ever. I am waiting until tomorrow to buff out the final clearcoat with rubbing compound. I ended up doing 6 coats of color, and two of clear coat.

The Silver Gray A08 mix from paintscratch.com matches the original color very well. I would order from them again.
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“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.

Last edited by MMME30W; 01-01-2009 at 07:15 PM.
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  #67  
Old 01-02-2009, 06:12 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 W906
Year End Report - 2008

As the year is now past, here is a quick rundown on costs and service items performed on my car in 2008.

The car has been in service 5 years and 4 months since purchased new in 2003. All told, I spent $2,345.45 in planned maintenance, unplanned repairs and modifications / accessories in 2008. Mileage at start of year was 44,577, at end of year, 60,305. I average 23.2 MPG in mixed city/highway driving.

Routine Maintenance

1) Four tires ($642.46)
2) Three Oil Services ($48.95, each)
4) Brake overhaul (pads and rotors, front and rear) ($350.85)
5) Manual Transmission and Differential Fluid Change ($44.20)
6) Brake fluid flush ($42.00)
7) Spark Plug replacement ($37.50)
8) Valve Cover Gasket replacement ($44.91)
9) Three bottles of Chevron Techroline fuel additive ($24.00)
10) Power steering fluid flush ($13.00)
11) Fuel Filter replacement ($65.61)

Total: $1,556.12

Repair/Wear Items

1) ZKW Headlight Projector Bowl and Lens Replacement ($450)
2) Repainted right side rocker cover/sill ($50)
3) Two cans of R134a refrigerant ($24)

Total: $618.88

Modification / Accessory

Set of cocomats ($147.95)

Sources:

Autozone Casselberry (consumables)
CVS Pharmacy (distilled water (honest ) )
Fields BMW Winter Park (various)
Tire Kingdom Winter Springs (tire mount/balance)
www.autohausaz.com (various)
www.bavauto.com (headlight lenses/gaskets)
www.bimmerfest.com (for DIY information, of course!)
www.cocomats.com (coco mats)
www.ebay.com (ZKW headlight bowls)
www.oembimmerparts.com (filters, various)
www.paintscratch.com (A08 Silber Grau paint)
www.pelicanparts.com (various)
www.tirerack.com (tires)
www.turnermotorsports.com (brake package)

Service Schedule

No. Service Item Interval Unit
1 Check Tire Pressure, Fluid Level 1 Months
2 Engine Oil Service 5000 Miles
3 Replace Ventilation Microfilter 15000 Miles
4 Inspect Brake Pads and Rotors 12 Months
5 Perform Inspection I 30000 Miles
6 Perform Inspection II 60000 Miles
7 Replace Manual Transmission Fluid 30000 Miles
8 Replace Differential Fluid 30000 Miles
9 Replace Brake Fluid 12 Months
10 Replace Coolant 24 Months
11 Replace Oxygen Sensors 100000 Miles
12 Replace Spark Plugs/Valve Cover 60000 Miles
13 Replace Wiper Blades 12 Months
14 Replace Battery 48 Months
15 Check Front Tires 35000 Miles
16 Check Rear Tires 30000 Miles
17 Replace Power Steering Fluid 30000 Miles
18 Change Pads and Rotors 48 Months
19 Replace Air Filter 15000 Miles
20 Replace Fuel Filter 60000 Miles
__________________
“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.
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  #68  
Old 02-07-2009, 04:12 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 W906
7 February, 2009, 62,172: Performed Monthly air/fluid level check.

Filled air in tires to 36F/38R. Coolant low: added 1/10 gallon distilled water. Oil low: added 400ml 5W-30 OEM oil. P/S Fluid level ok. Brake Fluid level ok. Hearing A/C gurgling: A/C low side pressure 27.5 psi at 59F ambient (ok). A/C vent blowing at 30F air w/ A/C set to lowest setting. Brrr. Lubricated all door/window track/trunk seals with Gummi Pflege. Inspected V-belts: slight cracking on inner V-belt (main). Hmm.
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“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.
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  #69  
Old 02-07-2009, 05:47 PM
brosher brosher is offline
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Location: Albany, NY
 
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Mein Auto: 128i
Thanks for the updates. Your diligence in recording all this is help for those of us who are slightly behind you on mileage.
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  #70  
Old 02-10-2009, 07:55 PM
DM3MD DM3MD is offline
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Mein Auto: 325xi
Hi Wingspan,

Thanks for your continued updates on your car---they are VERY helpful (as the above post mentioned) to those of us that's mileage isn't quite to yours yet.

I have two questions about post #67 (Year-end Report)...It states that you used three bottles of Chevron Techron Fuel Additive last year.

Question #1...Are you using the bottles that state "treats up to 20 gallons" or the bottle that "treats up to 12 gallons"? My local Autozone only carries the one that treats up to 20 gallons. Would you only use half the bottle or just dump it in before I fill up?

Question #2...Are you changing the oil shortly after you use the Techron? I assume this isn't as "harsh" as a product such as Seafoam. Still, I was wondering if I should put this in, say, 100-200 miles BEFORE my next oil change.

Thank you!
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  #71  
Old 02-14-2009, 02:46 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DM3MD View Post
Hi Wingspan,

Thanks for your continued updates on your car---they are VERY helpful (as the above post mentioned) to those of us that's mileage isn't quite to yours yet.

I have two questions about post #67 (Year-end Report)...It states that you used three bottles of Chevron Techron Fuel Additive last year.

Question #1...Are you using the bottles that state "treats up to 20 gallons" or the bottle that "treats up to 12 gallons"? My local Autozone only carries the one that treats up to 20 gallons. Would you only use half the bottle or just dump it in before I fill up?

Question #2...Are you changing the oil shortly after you use the Techron? I assume this isn't as "harsh" as a product such as Seafoam. Still, I was wondering if I should put this in, say, 100-200 miles BEFORE my next oil change.

Thank you!
You are most welcome.

1) I use the "treats 12 gallons" one and just dump it in when the tank is near emtpy, then fill up.

2) There's no correlation between oil changes and techron additive, other than coincidence. The techron I use goes in the gas tank...?
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“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.
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  #72  
Old 02-14-2009, 02:46 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Mein Auto: 2009 W906
14 February, 2009. 62,270: Perform major cooling service.

Tools
Flex-head Ratchet, 3/8"
3' flexible hose, 1 ˝" diameter (note: a 4' length of Pool vacuum hose is ideal, hypothetically. One is advised to sneak this past The Boss if choosing this route. )
Several 1 and 2 gallon buckets
Channel Lock / Long nose pliers
10 mm, 11mm, 13mm, 16mm socket, T25, T50 Torx bits, 2", 6", wobble extensions
in-lb torque wrench
Philips Screwdriver
Small flatblade screwdriver
36mm socket and 2 ˝ lb dead blow hammer
Petzl 3AAA Headlight
Supply latex mechanics gloves

Warnings, Cautions and Advisories
Coolant may splash suddenly as hoses are removed - take precautions, wear eye protection

Parts/Consumables
07-11-9-900-250-BOE Water Pump Pulley Bolt, 4 Per Car
07-12-9-905-534-BOE Bolt
11-28-1-748-131-M40 Adjusting Pulley
11-28-7-512-758-M40 A/C Belt Tensioner, BMW E46 330i
11-511722536Z Water Pump; Update Replacement with Metal Impeller and Gasket
11-530139877 Thermostat; Thermostat Kit with Housing and Seal
11-53-1-740-316-BOE Bolt
11-53-1-740-317-BOE Bolt
12-81738605 Idler Pulley/Roller; Water Pump/Alternator; Offset Mounting
13-62-1-433-077-M9 Coolant Temperature Switch
15-31436408 Radiator Hose; Lower to Thermostat Housing with Temperature Sensor Fitting
17-11 17 42 231 Radiator Cap
17-11 7 506 601 Coolant level sensor
17-11-1-437-361-M9 Radiator Drain Plug
17-11-1-707-818-M9 Water Drain Plug
4PK0865 Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; AC Compressor
6PK1538 Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; Alternator/Power Steering/Water Pump
71-1-9963200 Oil Drain Plug Gasket; 14mm Aluminum Seal Washer; 14x18x1.5mm
71-2-7510952 Radiator Hose; Upper Radiator to Thermostat Housing
71-2-9-900-681-BOE Water Pump Nuts, 4
71-3-7787039 Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir
82-141467704 Miscellaneous Fluids/Treatments; BMW Antifreeze; 1 gallon
Distilled water, 1 gallon

Parts Sources
CVS Pharmacy (distilled water)
www.pelicanparts.com
www.autohausaz.com

DIY References
http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46
http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/completecoolant.php

Procedure

The wiki and DIY are pretty good and are what I referred to. The following is the procedure I followed, YMMV:

1. Jack front end of car safely. Place onto sturdy jack-stands.
2. Remove intake ducting and air box.
3. Remove electrical connectors, push pin and screw from electric fan. Remove electric fan. Philips.
4. Remove splash shield. Philips.
5. Remove drive belts.
6. Remove and replace idler pulley/alternator. 16mm socket.
7. Remove and replace idler pulley/tensioner. T50 Torx socket
8. Remove and replace idler pulley/A/C belt. T50 Torx socket.
9. Remove water pump pulley. 10mm socket.
10. Drain Coolant from expansion tank, radiator and block. Replace plugs.
11. Remove Upper radiator hose from expansion tank, remove heater hose from expansion tank
12. Remove thermostat-end of upper radiator hose. Use flatblade as a lever and work it off.
13. Remove radiator-end of lower radiator hose. This definitely sucks. I found that making a lever/fulcrum from the long, 3/16" flatblade and the T-handle of my T25 driver, and using the flatblade to lever on the fitting eventually worked the fitting loose. I had to do this from both above and below. I was almost at the point of deciding to remove the radiator when it finally popped off. Be extremely careful here as you really don't want to damage the radiator.
14. Wipe face from spray of coolant from bottom radiator hose as it pops off. Mutter under breath.
15. Remove thermostat-end of lower radiator hose, remove hose. Used 3/16" flatblade again here as a lever on the fitting.
16. Remove thermostat electrical fitting (push in on wire bail, lift.) Loosen lifting eye nut. Remove thermostat.
17. Remove expansion tank. I found using the dead blow hammer, 6" extension and a 36mm socket on the bottom of the tank worked well. Luckily discover that the catch bucket will hold the Ľ cup of coolant that will spill out as the fitting pops off.
18. Receive bonus opportunity to practice those rusty soldering skills as you make the startling discovery that a 36mm socket behind a 2 ˝ lb dead blow hammer makes a crude but effective chopping tool if placed on the coolant level sensor fitting wires. Curse. Solder wires back together.
19. Remove 4 water pump nuts, insert M6x20mm bolts into threaded holes and gently ease water pump out.
20. Belatedly place catch bucket under water pump. Decide it would have been useful to reverse this step prior to the previous one to catch the Ľ cup of coolant that spills out of the water pump area as the wp is withdrawn. Argh.
21. Take a break. Re-check all plugs and connectors are secure. At this point all new hardware is going onto the car.
22. Install expansion tank. Reconnect heater hose. Note: Install the coolant level sensor into the bottom of the tank BEFORE you put the tank on. I forgot, and had to do it from under the car.
23. Install water pump and water pump pulley.
24. Install drive belts.
25. Install thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, as an assembly.
26. Connect lower and upper radiator hoses.
27. Turn on car, set to 91F, fan to low speed. SLOWLY add coolant till it bubbles out of the bleeder. Close bleeder and cap tank.
28. Re-install all the mechanical bits you took off earlier.

Car seems to run fine. I took it around the block and the temp gauge is right at the middle. It may be just me, but I think that odd waaaaaahhhhhhh noise I had been hearing is done. Also it seems just a tad quieter, overall. I think the combination of the new water pump, as well as replacing all three idler pulleys reduced the wear/play in the moving parts to reduce the noise. We'll see.

Only problem: A slight leak on the lower radiator hose, where it attaches to the thermostat at the upper end. There's about a ˝ teaspoon of coolant in the spash pan when I got back from the run around the block. Will have to keep an eye on that.

EDIT - Leak seems to be coming from BELOW the upper part of the fitting on the thermostat end of the lower radiator hose. Almost as if the fitting itself were leaking at the point the wire bail inserts...I wonder if I have a bad hose.

I guess I took a total of 6 hours, elapsed time, from yesterday evening to today. I like splitting jobs across a nights sleep. I am now eligible for AARP membership this month, so I don't spring off the mechanics creeper like I did a while ago. I took two Ibuprofen as a precautionary measure; I have a Corona in the fridge for later.
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- J.C. Watts Jr.

Last edited by MMME30W; 02-14-2009 at 04:51 PM.
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  #73  
Old 03-01-2009, 07:47 AM
MMME30W's Avatar
MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Location: On The Move
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 14,253
Mein Auto: 2009 W906
01 Mar 2009, 62,924: Investigate leaky lower radiator hose. Investigate leak in PS Pump resevoir cover.

Parts:

From www.pelicanparts.com

32-41-1-128-333-M103 Reservoir Cap Seal ($1.50)
11-53-1-436-408-M21 Lower Radiator Hose, BMW E46 3 Series ($20.75)
13-71-7-501-974-BOE Genuine BMW Part: AIR CHANNEL ($8.75)
51-11-8-174-185-M58 Rivet, for Front & Rear Bumper ($0.25 ea)

Notes

Finally got a chance to order and replace the lower radiator hose from the February service. I ordered parts from Pelican this time. It seemed to me that the lower hose fittings "snapped" onto the male end of the radiator and thermostat with a more satisfying "clonk" than before, but it may just be my imagination. If so, perhaps the original hose I had ordered from autohausaz was just slightly out of spec.

EDIT - I also used Scott_ZHP's idea and put a little smear of vaseline on the clean interior of the hose fittings before assembling the joints.

I'm getting pretty good at whipping the hoses on and off now, having done it three times in as many weeks. Anyways, after a short drive around the block, there was no apparent leak anymore, but we'll see.

Additionally, I replaced the "air channel" part (goes in front of the air box, to the grill) since the foam on my original one had perished and decomposed after five and half years. It's only $8.75, and since it channels air into the air box, I wanted to make sure the gasketing was up to scratch.

The plastic rivets were needed because a couple had fallen out of the front of the splash panel to bumper attachment holes. Splash panel is all secure now.

The other thing I did while I was at it was to replace the PS reservoir cover O-ring; there was some amount of PS fluid around the cap, which was collecting dirt. My guess is the O-ring is just getting old. Certainly when the new one went on, the cap now screws firmly onto the reservoir with a little feeling of "give" as the rubber bites down.

EDIT - Checked again this evening, no leaks.
__________________
“Character is doing the right thing when nobody’s looking. There are too many people who think that the only thing that’s right is to get by, and the only thing that’s wrong is to get caught.”

- J.C. Watts Jr.

Last edited by MMME30W; 03-01-2009 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 03-01-2009, 06:55 PM
robj213 robj213 is offline
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Location: Ft Worth, TX
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 742
Mein Auto: 2003 325i SP, Xenon
Do you think this tool would be helpful when removing the lower hose from the radiator?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96572
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  #75  
Old 03-01-2009, 07:06 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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Posts: 14,253
Mein Auto: 2009 W906
Quote:
Originally Posted by robj213 View Post
Do you think this tool would be helpful when removing the lower hose from the radiator?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96572
No.

I have a set of those picks from Harbor Freight. They are not the most, ah, durable steel items I have ever seen. I do use them, and in fact they are ideal for removing rubber O-rings and in snagging the wire bail on the radiator hose clip, but that's about it.

The bottom radiator hose has to be one of the biggest PITA connections I've ever come across. Removing that single fitting took approximately 30 minutes to work it loose. If I had not come up with the idea of using the 3/16" flatblade and the T25 T-handle bit, I would have been pulling the hole radiator out...
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- J.C. Watts Jr.
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