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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
Discussion of BMW's 4th generation E65/E66 7 Series flagship. The E65 generated much controversy, due to its radical styling and iDrive user difficulties. Nonetheless, the E65 broke records to become the best-selling 7-series iteration ever, especially after its 2005 facelift.

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  #1  
Old 05-15-2016, 07:54 PM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2005 BMW 750Li
Purchased 750Li with a few issues apparent now :/

Hi all.
Always been browsing this forum as iv been interested in BMW's ever since i could remember lol.

Last year i finally managed to purchase my first ever BMW. A 2005 750Li (facelift model) with 95,000 kms in Black Sapphire finish with pretty much all the options i was after. Only didn't have the Logic7 Stereo upgrade that i really really wanted

Anyways as I've never owned a BMW before or any German prestige cars in that manner it took me sometime to get use to all the difference within the car and its runnings etc.

Sadly though shortly after i purchased the car some issues began to appear mainly 3 main problems.

The very first thing i noticed was with the Transmission.
It doesn't do it always but id say 75% of the time when i go to stop smoothly/slowly at the traffic lights it does that dreaded jerk stop when it drops back into first gear.
From my research i did online i changed the flex disc between the transmission & the shaft but it had no affect. I tried doing the Adaptation reset with the accelerator pedal (i think i did it the correct way??) but i didn't notice any difference either.
I have serviced the transmission as well but again nothing really changed.

When i use the manual mode and let the car stop and stay by it self into 3rd gear it stops perfect but leaving it in auto mode most of the times its an uncomfortable stop.
Noticed when having the A/C on the jerk stop is more aggressive too.

Any chance programming or the reset (if i did it wrong) could solve my problem or most likely a mechanical failure I'm experiencing?

Second issue started after i did the first oil change. I used Castrol Fully Synthetic Gold 5w-30 oils.
Problem is though i noticed when at idle for 5-10 mins and i go to take off it does that massive puff of smoke at the back :/
Sometimes the smoke is pure whitish in colour while other times it seems more blackish with a bit of blue in it i think.
It never blows smoke on start up though only when at idle for long.

I take it this is the Stem Valve issue I've found people talking about online?

3rd issue began about 3 months ago id say.
The car makes a rattling noise but you can only hear it with the windows down and if your passing another vehicle next to you or passing close by a wall etc.
Its really hard to explain but it sounds more like a metallic rattle noise from the front part of the car.
Ive tried revving the the engine while standing still but i can never hear the noise. I only hear it whilst driving and next to another car or wall as i mentioned.

Anyone else ever experience a similar thing?

Finally another issue but I'm not super fussed about it is the Professional cordless phone that came with the car in the cradle.
Ive put in a new sim card and the phone works fine when using the handsfree or the keypad that slides out of the console but whenever I've tried to use the cordless phone it never works.
The buttons on the phone never work when the screen is showing correctly that its on or it shows on the phone screens a error code 201! i think if i remember correctly.

Super sorry for the long post but i really hope if anyone would be kind to help me out please with some advice or info as I'm finding it very difficult to get any info regarding the 7 Series issues here in Australia.
Ive always wanted this car ever since i could remember but sadly from the day i bought it i haven't been able to enjoy it properly.

Thank you for time and look forward to the feedback
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  #2  
Old 05-16-2016, 01:00 AM
Hallivand Hallivand is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 745i
Purchased 750Li with a few issues apparent now :/

Welcome fellow 7 owner! Where in Australia are you? Sydneysider here with a 745i -

1) this may be resolved with a transmission software update (been mentioned here a few times), I'm also currently trying to sort that out so if anybody else chimes in that's be great. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=635037 and http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=420377 for some reference.

2) More likely than not it's the valve stem seals I'm afraid, there are many guides here that show you step by step procedures if you're game to do it on your own. Otherwise try find a reputable Indy as BMW Service will effectively charge upwards of $5k+ http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=803418

3) I'm getting a rattling like that near walls but from my rear wheels - check to see where it's coming from cause it could be a loose parking brake actuator in the rear disc. If it's fronts could be your pads wearing out or the anti rattle clips aren't seated properly. Look here http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=536799

For the phone, try change the batteries and see how you go.

Hope this helps! Try to pull codes if you can as that can better help identify pain points on the E65 - if you're in the Sydney area just pm and could arrange something. I know how hard it is to find information re: these cars in Oz so happy to lend some help.

Last edited by Hallivand; 05-16-2016 at 01:08 AM.
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  #3  
Old 05-16-2016, 01:37 AM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Hi Hallivand and thank you for the reply.
Im down in Melbourne.

Would be great if a software update could easily solve the issue for the Transmission.

Ahh dang to hear it is the Stem Valves. Im guessing the previous owner/seller might put some kind of temporary stop measure liquid in the engine oil that stopped it from smoking???
A friend of mine had advised before i went to buy the car to check for the smoke issue by waiting for 5 mins then revving the engine but it never did any smoke when i tested it. Obviously when i changed the oils and put new in it began :/
I rang out of curiosity 2 BMW dealers and one quoted $10k + while another said $12k
Ive tried a few mechanics that seem to specialise in BM's/European cars and to be honest the vibe i got from them was that they weren't interested to do the job.
One even told me to get rid of it...But I just bought it i replied!!! lol

Hmm never thought to check around the wheels areas.
Thank you for the idea.
Might have a chance on the weekend to check it out.

The cordless phone has one of those flat rectangular batteries. I have no idea if it could be bought after-market or only from BMW Spare Parts? Ill try to enquire on that one then.

Thanks heaps for all the info & links as well. I truly appreciate it!
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  #4  
Old 05-16-2016, 08:09 AM
OntBMW22 OntBMW22 is offline
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My Indy mechanic swears by using thicker oil. He says if you don't use a 40 or 50 you will get smoke in these cars. Maybe try an oil change with a 10w-40 or even a 50.
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  #5  
Old 05-16-2016, 03:10 PM
Hallivand Hallivand is offline
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Given the car has only got 95,000 kilometres on the clock I wouldn't say it needs anything thicker than factory spec (generally at 200/250+) since its relatively new. If it needs thicker oil that means it's only delaying the inevitable, the valve stem seals will need to be replace eventually. How handy are you? Honestly around here in Oz it's going to be the only way to get it done for under what looks like a $10,000 job.

As for the transmission, do you notice an RPM flutter when going say 50-70km/h after start? I may have traced my issue back to the torque converter and could hold true to your situation too.
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  #6  
Old 05-16-2016, 03:45 PM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OntBMW22 View Post
My Indy mechanic swears by using thicker oil. He says if you don't use a 40 or 50 you will get smoke in these cars. Maybe try an oil change with a 10w-40 or even a 50.
I guess i could always give it a go. $100 for oils compared to the price there asking to repair it lol.
Thank you for the suggestion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hallivand View Post
Given the car has only got 95,000 kilometres on the clock I wouldn't say it needs anything thicker than factory spec (generally at 200/250+) since its relatively new. If it needs thicker oil that means it's only delaying the inevitable, the valve stem seals will need to be replace eventually. How handy are you? Honestly around here in Oz it's going to be the only way to get it done for under what looks like a $10,000 job.

As for the transmission, do you notice an RPM flutter when going say 50-70km/h after start? I may have traced my issue back to the torque converter and could hold true to your situation too.
I just hit 99,000 kms the other day and its been just about a year now owning the car now.
Hmm thats another point too yeah that the thicker oil could only be a temporary measure :/
Well i wouldn't say I'm an expert around cars but always been doing minor or easy stuff that could be done lol.
The only issue that concerns me for attempting to do the Valve Stem job at home is I've heard that pulling the Cams out of the motor you would need a special tool plus to know how to realign them. Thats what I've heard...not sure if i am correct or not??

For the transmission i can't say i have noticed any RPM flutter around that speed then again i haven't been paying that much attention to it as well. I will be looking at it more closely now that you mention it.
The only thing i have noticed the transmission does is when going down a hill and allowing the car to coast ill notice the RPM shoots up as I'm guessing its dropped a gear or two on its own??
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  #7  
Old 05-16-2016, 03:57 PM
Hallivand Hallivand is offline
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There are a few guides here that can help with the valve stem seals, however before that try to see if you can get INPA installed or your mechanic to run the codes off the car. Gives you a good idea of what's going on under the hood - with these cars best get handy to some extent as problems can add up $$ very quickly! The alignment tools can be resold once you've finished anyway, it's not that the part is expensive it's very labour intensive as you've seen. If not game (and I can understand it can be quite daunting) ask around and keep looking, it's a fix you generally do once and ensure you replace oil every 10k not 30k as per iDrive. I purchased mine around a year ago too @ 112k, now 136k and still using the recommended 5w-30 with no dramas.

Yeah I get that noticeable downshift/surging when releasing foot off the brake too. I've had it since I bought mine, however has steadily been getting worse. Cheapest fix could be software update first, however if you get any jolts shifting from D to R, etc likely your Guibo joint too. Torque converter if rpms are jumping about - all from what I've gathered from here and my Indy.
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  #8  
Old 05-16-2016, 11:35 PM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hallivand View Post
it's not that the part is expensive it's very labour intensive as you've seen. If not game (and I can understand it can be quite daunting) ask around and keep looking.

Yeah I get that noticeable downshift/surging when releasing foot off the brake too. I've had it since I bought mine, however has steadily been getting worse. Cheapest fix could be software update first, however if you get any jolts shifting from D to R, etc likely your Guibo joint too. Torque converter if rpms are jumping about - all from what I've gathered from here and my Indy.
Yep its all for the labour cost mostly I've been told also.
The thing that worries me the most for attempting to do it my self is to start pulling it apart and get stuck somewhere or damage something and then the car is sitting there in pieces.
Im just going to have to keep looking as you suggest.

Ive changed the Guibo joint already. Was one of the first things i changed when i bought the car and noticed the jerk stop occurring thinking that might help the issue.

For the cordless phone in the tray i rang a BMW dealership and was advised the battery for it is now listed as obsolete on their computer system.
I wonder if aftermarket ones were made ever??
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  #9  
Old 05-17-2016, 02:41 PM
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Rick in Yuma Rick in Yuma is online now
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There's a recent thread that stated Mobil 1 high mileage motor oil stopped the valve seal leaks. Worth a try, not sure if it's available in Australia. When I run across the thread again I'll post it.
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  #10  
Old 05-19-2016, 12:08 AM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick in Yuma View Post
There's a recent thread that stated Mobil 1 high mileage motor oil stopped the valve seal leaks. Worth a try, not sure if it's available in Australia.
Thanks Rick for the suggestion. I will look into it if its available here in Australia.
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  #11  
Old 05-19-2016, 04:32 PM
Scott Zinger Scott Zinger is offline
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You can by a tool and seal kit from AGA in Southern California that allows you to do the valve guide seals without having to pull the cams. The kit costs about $1200 dollars and comes with the tools and all the seals that need to be replaced. I just did this job last week. It took me 5 days and about 27 hours to do it. I did a little each day. It is very time consuming and can be frustrating but it is doable. There are lots of videos on YouTube and the kit come with instructions. I also called AGA right before I started and asked a bunch of questions, they were very helpful. It was a lot of work but so glad I did it, no more smoke! I then sold the tool kit for $600 so I got half my money back, not too bad.

Last edited by Scott Zinger; 05-19-2016 at 04:33 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-29-2016, 06:19 AM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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I managed to find the same battery type for the Cordless phone in the front drawer but it didn't manage to fix the issue with the phone 90% of the time being unresponsive and its still sometimes showing that 201! error code on the phone screen.
Very weird....

I finally ended up having some free time today so decided to take off both front wheels and give the rotors a spin (for the random rattling noise issue I've been having) to check for any noises.
The Drivers side seemed to be making some weird noises as i was rotating it. For sure louder compared to the Passengers side.
Brake pads are getting pretty low so sometime this week ill buy the pads and get them changed & the rotors machined. Will try to take a good look around once the rotors are off also.
One thing that did happen after i was done and started the car....the yellow light with the warning triangle illuminated and beeped with a warning to drive moderately then got the recharge battery msg and lastly left rear indicator failure all at the same time!
Just from taking off the wheels and spinning the rotors??? lol

On the third start of the car though all fault messages went away on their own :/
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  #13  
Old 08-02-2016, 06:26 AM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Still haven't managed to get the stem valve issue sorted on my car

Been looking around still for local mechanical shops to try and get some results as BMW is out of question with them quoting $10,000 plus for the replacement work but so far have had no good results plus some bad luck :/

I tried by going to one local service centre which specialises in Euro cars (recommend by a colleague) which i had to leave the car for it to be inspected.....to cut to it straight i arrive at the end of the day, my car still hadn't been looked at and worse of all they dinted the passenger side door (just above the door handle) with some kind of workshop trolley

Couldn't believe when i saw the damage...as wide as the door handle it self.

Took a break after that as i was upset but started to look again around from mid May but haven't been able to find anyone. Most either are not interested to do the job while some are honest and say they don't have the tools that are required.

I feel like its going to be very very difficult to get the job done here in Australia.
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  #14  
Old 08-02-2016, 08:10 AM
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Rick in Yuma Rick in Yuma is online now
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Have you looked into the possibility of having the AGA valve seal kit sent from the United States. You can show YouTube videos of how it's done to your mechanic. They may be willing to tackle the job after they see it. There are several members here that have done it themselves, as stated above. All German automotive is a sponsor on the site. He's willing to field questions.

Here's the listing for the kit.

http://www.agatools.com/tool/n62-val...ool/collection

Here's the listing to his forum profile.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/member.php?u=548479

Last edited by Rick in Yuma; 08-02-2016 at 08:34 AM.
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  #15  
Old 08-02-2016, 07:53 PM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Thank you kindly for the reply & links Rick in Yuma

I did have a look at one time to import the tool kit but i think with postage plus conversion for the Aussie dollar i was looking around $2,000 (Australian).
The problem is personally I do not feel confident enough to attempt the job my self and i doubt id be able to convince a mechanic to do it by asking them to view the vids.....I can't even find one to just look at the car first lol

I feel if i lived in the US my problem would have been sorted out along time ago. Its a shame there isn't much options down over here in Aus :/
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  #16  
Old 08-02-2016, 10:19 PM
Javster9 Javster9 is offline
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I had a rattling noise before in the rear wheels and it was the wheel bearings.
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  #17  
Old 08-03-2016, 03:23 PM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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I think from the service history the car has i remember reading somewhere only the front wheel bearings have been checked and passed as OK.
Not sure if the back wheel bearings have been looked at as well??

Thats something ill have to look at but i still feel the noise is coming more so from the front area of the car but then again because of the echo effect the way you hear it could be deceiving the area its coming from.
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  #18  
Old 08-10-2016, 07:40 AM
Javster9 Javster9 is offline
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Just make sure the noise is coming from the rear wheels
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  #19  
Old 08-11-2016, 12:15 PM
voodoomelon voodoomelon is offline
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I had a few of your problems with my facelift '05 740Li.

Starting burning oil, blue smoke at about 80k miles. Got stem seals replaced here in Ireland (where prices are high) for 1400 which was a bargain. Smoking gone for good.

Second issue was the transmission issue, gear changes were unbelievably rough and jerky, though i'd bought a lemon. Got the entire car's software updated in 2014, took about 5 hours.
It was like a new car, was never updated from the factory in 9 years. Throttle response, gearchanges etc were smooth and progressive, no physical fault whatsoever.

I currently have a bit of a rattle when driving by walls, other cars etc too. I never really bothered getting anything done about it as I rarely hear it. I do have a rattly exhaust heat shield (at idle when starting up) which I always presumed was causing it.
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  #20  
Old 08-11-2016, 12:40 PM
TechFreak TechFreak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodoomelon View Post
I had a few of your problems with my facelift '05 740Li.

Starting burning oil, blue smoke at about 80k miles. Got stem seals replaced here in Ireland (where prices are high) for 1400 which was a bargain. Smoking gone for good.

Second issue was the transmission issue, gear changes were unbelievably rough and jerky, though i'd bought a lemon. Got the entire car's software updated in 2014, took about 5 hours.
It was like a new car, was never updated from the factory in 9 years. Throttle response, gearchanges etc were smooth and progressive, no physical fault whatsoever.

I currently have a bit of a rattle when driving by walls, other cars etc too. I never really bothered getting anything done about it as I rarely hear it. I do have a rattly exhaust heat shield (at idle when starting up) which I always presumed was causing it.
Unlikely to be rattly heat shield.....more likely your Cats are going bad and the ceramics are breaking down inside the exhaust causing the rattle.

I had exact same issue....noise went away when the Cats were hot.

Eventually you get an emissions fault which means the Cat has finally failed.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:39 PM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javster9 View Post
Just make sure the noise is coming from the rear wheels
At one point i thought there was a chance it was coming from the wheels but yesterday i ruled it out.

I stopped by the side of the road to pick up a family member and as i was waiting the revs on the engine fluctuated a little and as the revs went up and down i could hear the rattle slightly.
I had my foot on the brake the entire time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by voodoomelon View Post
I had a few of your problems with my facelift '05 740Li.
Second issue was the transmission issue, gear changes were unbelievably rough and jerky, though i'd bought a lemon. Got the entire car's software updated in 2014, took about 5 hours.
It was like a new car, was never updated from the factory in 9 years. Throttle response, gearchanges etc were smooth and progressive, no physical fault whatsoever.
Hmm now makes me wonder perhaps the dealer which told me he had the car updated with all the software maybe never got done??
Or maybe someone screwed it up by doing the update wrong (if that even is possible)

Im not entirely 100% sure but i test drived the car twice before i bought it on two seperate occasions and I'm pretty sure it never did the transmission jerk stopping issue. Soon as i picked up the car after the apparent updates/minor repairs done soon as i left from the car yard it began to do the rough 2-1 downshift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TechFreak View Post
Unlikely to be rattly heat shield.....more likely your Cats are going bad and the ceramics are breaking down inside the exhaust causing the rattle.

I had exact same issue....noise went away when the Cats were hot.
Ive noticed mine does the rattle wether i leave straight from home when the car is cold or even after driving around 2-3 hours straight... still does the rattle when passing by another car or wall etc.

But i am very curious now if it is the cats or not??

If the fault is from the cats should the rattle be happening also when standing still and revving out the engine??
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  #22  
Old 08-14-2016, 02:24 AM
TechFreak TechFreak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WH750 View Post
Ive noticed mine does the rattle wether i leave straight from home when the car is cold or even after driving around 2-3 hours straight... still does the rattle when passing by another car or wall etc.

But i am very curious now if it is the cats or not??

If the fault is from the cats should the rattle be happening also when standing still and revving out the engine??
If it's the Parking Brake Actuator rattling it's more obvious when going over bumps at low speed and a tinny sound coming from the rear.

If it's your cats it'll be there all or most of the time depends on how the ceramics are sitting in the exhaust. You should also still hear the rattle sitting revving the engine.
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:48 PM
WH750 WH750 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechFreak View Post
If it's the Parking Brake Actuator rattling it's more obvious when going over bumps at low speed and a tinny sound coming from the rear.

If it's your cats it'll be there all or most of the time depends on how the ceramics are sitting in the exhaust. You should also still hear the rattle sitting revving the engine.
Yeah i would say i do hear the noise more at lower to mid speeds but then again at higher speeds on the freeway it could still be doing it and I just can't hear it with the increased wind/traffic noise perhaps??
The only thing is i do feel the noise is coming more form the mid to front section of the car.
I sat in the back seat and got my brother to drive the car and the noise did sound a lot more faint from the back area. Soon as i jumped in the driver seat it sounded louder for sure.

With the cats being the problem that is true and i agree that if it was the catalytic converters it should be doing it while standing still and revving the engine but 3 or 4 times that I've tried it i can't replicate the noise in that manner.

One mechanic (which i visited to enquire on the Stem Valve job a while ago) that i mentioned it suggested it could be one of the VANOS either side failing and causing the rattle.
I told him it doesnt do it when i rev the engine only when driving and he replied yeah thats because the VANOS adjust when you drive off.
I personally have no idea how the VANOS works so no clue if what he said is a possibility?
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2016, 04:12 AM
old gold Tim old gold Tim is offline
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At 112,000 km, this scares the crap out of me. A $120,000.00 per you would think there would be better longjevity
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:22 AM
TechFreak TechFreak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WH750 View Post

One mechanic (which i visited to enquire on the Stem Valve job a while ago) that i mentioned it suggested it could be one of the VANOS either side failing and causing the rattle.
I told him it doesnt do it when i rev the engine only when driving and he replied yeah thats because the VANOS adjust when you drive off.
I personally have no idea how the VANOS works so no clue if what he said is a possibility?
See Page 29 of this doc :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...6&d=1353774640
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