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DIY: Power Steering Hoses on your 540i

62K views 39 replies 22 participants last post by  energizedmortal 
#1 · (Edited)
Here's how I fixed my Power Steering hose leak. Make sure you use some brake cleaner down on your suspension components (maybe someone will chime in and say how to re-lubricate the bushings), and anything that has all the grime and gunk built up. The junk on my lower control arm bushings caused a 55mph vibration, and it's gone upon cleaning!!!!!! Here's how i did it.

RULES:

DO NOT start the car with the PS cap off, or you will spend an hour or two cleaning the fluid off your engine bay, and then getting it off your paint, which is even MORE fun.

Don't puncture a hose, these PS hoses are not cheap, about $100-150 from what i've found.

Tools and whatnot required:

22mm socket
philips screwdriver
flat blade screwdriver (always use this)
brake cleaner (brakleen seems to work better than the autozone brand for some reason)
10mm socket
turkey baster
drain pan
a good brand of Dexron III compatible fluid (i used Amsoil Synthetic ATF)
needle-nose pliers
assorted screw-type hose clamps (find the size you need by lookin at the hoses beforehand)
razor blade of some sort

* remove the lower engine shield so you can see everything
* remove power steering reservoir cap
* go back down below, and place a drain pan under the power steering pump area
* loosen the 22mm bolt FACING the back of the car, and PS fluid will drain out from the line. (alternately, extract from reservoir with a turkey baster), you don't have to remove the bolt, just enough to drain.
* ultimately you want most of your PS fluid to be removed, there will still be some in the steering gearbox, so you can flush it twice if you are switching to synthetic ATF, I did.
* remove the 10mm nuts holding the PS reservoir on
* pull the reservoir out from the mount
* Now that your fluid is all drained out (you did that right?), lets remove the hoses (make sure you know which line goes where on the reservoir, mark it if you want)
* BE CAREFUL, the reservoir nipples are plastic, and a lot of force will snap them
* Using your needlenose pliers and maybe the screwdriver, pry off the crappy crimp-on hose clamps BMW uses, then pull the hoses off and you should be able to walk off with the reservoir now. I flushed some cheap fluid through the reservoir to make sure it was clean, going backwards so the dirt and gunk caught by the internal filter gets flushed back out the top.
* Now, using your razor blade, take the 2 hoses you removed from the reservoir, and cut them just below where the clamps were, it should be about 3/8-1/2".
* Now, find the hose clamp that fits, make sure to align the screwhead towards the driver's side of the car in the inside so you can tighten up the clamps by just moving the reservoir up a few inches. (you will probably need to re-tighten afterwards)
* Now that your clamps are on the lines, install the lines back onto the reservoir just as they came off, push them up as far as they will go and tighten the clamps
* Go back down below and tighten that 22mm bolt on the pump (not TOO tight, just guess based on the force it took to remove. If someone wants to post the torque for it, feel free, i dont have a bentley or anything around.
* Take your super-fly synthetic ATF, and slowly pour it into the reservoir, and i mean slowly so you don't get any bubbles.
* fill it up to the MAX mark on the dipstick attached to the cap.
* Start the car, but DO NOT turn the wheel at all, turn it on for about a minute or so to get the fluid flowing. If you turn the wheel, the fluid will be sucked into the system too fast and you will get a huge air bubble and will have to start over.
* Here's where you decide if you want to flush ALL the old fluid out. If you don't, top off the reservoir to MAX, start the engine, and now drive around for a little bit and make a few turns each direction at full lock.
* IF you want to flush it, simply loosen the same 22mm bolt down below and let it drain into your drain pan, then when it's done tighten it up and refill to MAX. Follow the same fill steps as above and you should be in good shape.
* grab a beer if you haven't already. :thumbup:

Since the flush procedure is so easy, I think i'll be flushing my fluid once a year. I'm not sure if the synthetic is necessary, but I had it laying around and it was doing me no good sitting on the shelf, and the ZF 6-spd doesn't take ATF so I had no use for it.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Haha, i actually tried to take pics but my camera broke when i dropped it on the stairs to start this whole project. I suppose i know what to ask for for christmas now :rofl: Yah add i'll copy this into the DIY forum now actually.
 
#8 ·
At the bottom where it connects to the pump? Also meanwhile im leakin atf from power steering, i ordered redline d4 atf from bavauto, can i fill up with dexron3 atf fluid from autozone meanwhile just to top off? Thank you.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I have a '99 528i. My PS pump/hose attachment is leaking. The hose itself seems long enough that trimming and refitting should be enough. I didn't see a drain bolt on the pump itself, I'm guessing I would just want to empty the reservoir with a turkey baster as best I can, then remove the hose from the pump, re-trim, re-attach. Any problems with this approach? Any gaskets at the pump base I should consider replacing as well?

I have a couple quarts of Mobil 1 ATF sitting here I plan to use.

---Oops!-----

I missed the 540i-specific title during my DIY search.... sorry....
 
#13 ·
A new hose is about $33. If you a cca member, 15% off on parts from your trusty dealer. For pete's sake, just go buy a new one. Your power steering hose is on borrowed time already.

While you are in there, check the radiator return line of the power steering hose, it is very well ready to leak at this vintage.
 
#16 · (Edited)
For reference, are some pictures of removing the hoses & cleaning the power steering filter on the 540 from JimLev today:
- How to clean the power steering fluid reservoir internal filter (1)


And, for the record, while we're at it, here is a picture of the classic drip from the lower power steering hose on my M54:


And, here is a pic of the cn90 method of fixing the upper hose drip:


And, here is a pic of me cleaning my power steering reservoir filter:


For the record, these threads from the VERY best of E39 Links are being updated ...
- How to clean the power steering fluid reservoir internal filter (1) & how to replace the cap o-ring (1) (2) & why you want to fix the power steering hose drip onto the alternator (1) (2) (3) & how to debug PSP power steering pump noises (1) (2) (3) or steering rack noises (1) & a nice power steering pump autopsy photo (1) & how to flush cloudy ATF fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & what PS fluid to use (1) (2-pdf) (3-volume) & what volume is needed to buy (1) & DIYs to replace the power steering hoses (1) (2) (3) (4) (5).

With the following recommendations:

  • Every oil change, suction out about 8 ounces (250 ml) of the power steering fluid and replace with Dexron VI ATF
  • Every five years (or so), when you replace the two lower oil-filter stem o-rings, also remove the T20 Torx bolt holding down the circular screen filter in the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir and flush with gasoline (off the vehicle!) to clean the screen
  • Likewise, also replace the o-ring in the power steering fluid reservoir cap at the time you replace the two lower o-rings in the oil filter stem
  • And, of course, check/fix leaks in the hose below the power steering reservoir & at the bottom of the power steering pump, which is the topic of this thread. :)
 
#17 · (Edited)
I did not see a drain plug in x3, it might be not accessible due to the undercarriage support bars, so suction is the only clean option,

I did it four times (must do at least three times to get significant improvement); hoses are holding up quite well at 63k so no change there, I would say about 30 particles in the filter so not a big obstacle really

I can feel extra ease than before, better feel for the road, very smooth turnig (before was almost like a workout); and less of the grinding noise too

Liftieme steering fluid is a lie. Definiatelly worth doing.
 
#18 ·
#21 ·
For the cross-linked record, there are good I6 & V8 power steering hose size & clamp tools DIY hints here today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Power steering hose replacement

I am planning to change the two hoses that run from the reservoir to the pump and cooler, respectively. I purchased a roll of 1/2" ID high pressure power steering cooler hose, but when I look at the reservoir, it appears that one hose is slightly smaller than the other.
The hoses are different size IDs.
Also the small ID hose has a ID restrictor in it. Helps to direct the hose away from the pullies too.
You didn't mention why you want to replace these hoses but assuming it's because the ends are leaky, so, if you want, you can .....

Unclamp the leaky end(s), remove from the reservoir/pump nipples, cleanly (sharp razor blade) cut an inch or so off the end, and re-clamp with new clamps and they'll be good to go. (Good idea to turkey-baster-remove the fluid in the res first....).

Others here will tell you that you should buy new BMW hoses, but this is just plain-old hose and it's not under any serious pressure, and the fat hose ain't worth the $35 and up. If it were a good setup it wouldn't be so prone to dripping fluid everywhere.
The 530 just uses a regular bolt clamp, unlike the 540.
 
#27 ·
Yes, I watched it before. He has alot more room. I can get to the 2 container hoses. The bottom 14 is what I can't get to. Is that hose one piece? Is it aluminum to rubber that connects to both sides? Special hose or just buy a cut as needed? Sorry for all of the questions.
 
#28 ·
Yes, I watched it before. He has a lot more room.
I can get to the 2 container hoses.
The bottom of hose #14 is what I can't get to.
Is that hose one piece? Is it aluminum to rubber that connects to both sides?
Special hose or just buy and cut as needed?
Sorry for all of the questions.
I would replace the 2 hoses mentioned...

Hose #14 from the Real OEM diagram has a metal fitting that connects to the side of the radiator.

#14 hose, part number 32 41 1 094 306:
http://www.eaceuroparts.com/parts/part_number/32 41 1 094 306

There is a hook-clamp with 1 bolt that holds #14 and another power steering hose.
You have to remove/ loosen that clamp in order to remove the #14 hose metal connection.
Also, be aware that each one of those metal connection hose lines have a small rubber o-ring on the end of the metal line.

If you are replacing that #14 hose, you should also replace the o-ring.

If you can not reach or have access to the bottom of the power steering pump, then you might try removing the alternator, for easier access...
 
#32 ·
Thanks much..
So I should replace both?
I think it is leaking in the front but can't tell which one.
I know I couldn't get to it from underneath.
The engine is so compacted; space is limited.
I am not even sure I can get to the alternator.
Are your hoses original?
Are they leaking...?
Fluid all over the hoses?
If any above, then most definitely replace them IMO...
I would also get some OEM (screw-type) hose clamps from the dealer too, if you have the original crimp-type hose clamps.

You can easily get to the alternator after you remove the air intake box.
And, probably unbolt the power steering reservoir to get it out of the way.

How does hose #1 from the Real OEM diagram get connected to the pump?
I don't quite get the way it looks in the pic..there's a banjo bolt right under it..:dunno:
The #1 hose from the Real OEM diagram has hose clamps that connects at the power steering pump, and at the reservoir.
The #1 hose is a larger diameter hose than the other #14 hose.
It will be easy to see once you are under the car, and have the air box out of the way...

Thanks!
Jason
 
#34 ·
Not sure where to xref this wonderful find by the team (cn90, pleiades, & doru):
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > PS hose assembly bracket mount, rubber cracked ....

But, if you crack that particular part, there's a way (the cn90 way).

Wow, cn90 you did it, that does look like an exact fit. I was trying to think of something similar I had seen on the car but couldn't remember where.

Many thanks. The genuine BMW part is about $15-20 but the URO branded one is under $3. I think I'll order a couple of the UROs. I guess my hackjob with zipties will hold up long enough.

.... Incidentally....

Until now I was thinking of repairing the split mount with an adhesive of some kind, so I tried an assortment of bonding agents on pieces of test rubber (square chunks cut out from and re-cemented into an old front sway-bar bushing) and let them cure overnight. The only one that created a bond tough enough that I can't pull apart is Permatex Ultra Black! I'm impressed.
 
#36 ·
bimmerd00d,

u mentioned removing gunk on lower suspension and 55mph vibration gone. still the case? any pics, more info to share?
holy thread bump. For those who surprisingly cared if I was good...I am. Sold the E39 a while back. 3 cars later I have an E34 540iT/6 and an E38 740iL. Mom's '00 528iA has 325k on it now and is still going strong.
 
#40 ·
They usually fail at the reservoir connections due to the location and heat but I got 50,000 miles out of OEM hoses before they leaked.

Then I cut an inch from the top of each hose and re clamped still bone dry another 2 years and 20,000 miles later. Next time I hope to get 80,000 miles from the replacement OEM Rein hoses I have on the shelf.
 
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