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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-16-2008, 11:29 AM
Sunny 525i Sunny 525i is offline
2007 530i
Location: Greenville, TX
 
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WOW!!!! cool trick to fix rough idle

thanks to the guys over at e60.net

check out the link below
http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=40018
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2008, 11:30 AM
Sunny 525i Sunny 525i is offline
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Location: Greenville, TX
 
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haven't tested it yet but i will today.
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2008, 12:14 PM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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Uhm, isn't the trick for smoother shifting?
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  #4  
Old 01-16-2008, 01:48 PM
Sunny 525i Sunny 525i is offline
2007 530i
Location: Greenville, TX
 
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sorry for the mistake but i stand corrected, it is for smoother shifting.
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2008, 08:11 PM
Dmillion Dmillion is offline
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Hmmm...I have an 05..and I think it worked, but I'm not sure. It definitely downshifted flawlessly...but 50% of the time I still experienced a slightly rough and barley noticeable shift from 1-2 gear. If I remember correctly, I would experience a rough shift from 1-2 95% of the time. I only drove the car approx 6 miles so I won't have more evidence until tomorrow...but it did seem to downshift like a dream. I floored it a few times while cruising at say 30-40 mph and I didn't feel a thing but a kick in my a** as the car took off…..it was very smooth!
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  #6  
Old 01-21-2008, 08:13 PM
BEMV BEMV is offline
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You mention shifting while driving is good,how about when your stopped at a light with the shifter in Drive.Does it improve the idle or just the shifting?
Thanks
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  #7  
Old 01-24-2008, 09:51 AM
Sunny 525i Sunny 525i is offline
2007 530i
Location: Greenville, TX
 
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well in my case it improved the idle and the shifting. my car use to have a very rough ide when i stopped at a red light or even in traffic and also rough shifting and now after the trick, havent had a rough idle yet and its been smooth shifting like the day i got it. its been about a week since i've done the trick and still no problems.
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  #8  
Old 01-24-2008, 12:23 PM
dbae23 dbae23 is offline
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I just tried resetting earlier today. I did notice a slight change...but i didn't get to drive it much. I'm going to go for a drive after work and see how the car feels on the highway. Will post result later

Does anybody else know of any other E60 "easter eggs"?
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  #9  
Old 11-12-2009, 01:34 AM
artisthand artisthand is offline
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try this it's easy to do only 5 minutes and solved all your rough idle and check engine light problems on your (2000-2009) later or newer yes! all BMW E60, X3, X5, 325i,330i,335i,525i,528i,530i,535i,... check out the manifold adjuster Google this up.

That appears to have been the problem the whole time. This is what caused the check engine light and O2 sensor fault and misfire codes. listed below are the codes that are caused by a broken Intake Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit!!!

Ignore these codes after changing your broken or damage Intake Manifold Runner Valve/adjuster Unit these codes will be gone.

P0171 = Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean

P0174 = Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean

P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

P1083 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1085 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1

P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3

P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4

P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5

P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6


The adjuster's part description on www.ecstuning.com
Air adjustment unit controls the path of the air in the intake manifold, allowing either a shorter or longer runner length. A common source of trouble causing low RPM sluggishness and accompanied by a clicking sound from the engine bay. The exact symptoms.

Location on driver's side. I already removed the two T40 bolts (upper right and lower middle.) Then simply pull the adjuster unit straight back out towards you. ( 5 minutes)
After removing the manifold adjuster you can also clean your idle control valve (ICV). It's easy to remove the ICV 12 minutes job and clean it with the Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner!!!








I can feel the difference in the acceleration and there's no slight hesitation or engine rough idle and after clearing the check engine light it will not come back on!!!
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2009, 07:27 AM
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RedDvl33 RedDvl33 is offline
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Just reading this makes me excited! I can't wait to try it for my 63 mile commute home after work
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  #11  
Old 11-12-2009, 10:03 AM
con_choa01 con_choa01 is offline
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Location: houston, tx
 
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Mein Auto: 2007 525i
thanks guys. i've read something like the instruction up top somewhere and have not been able to find it, but this is pretty much the same thing. i'm gonna start keeping all these great tips in Microsoft word so i can refer to them easier.
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  #12  
Old 11-12-2009, 12:39 PM
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Bart001 Bart001 is offline
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I read that quite a while ago, and it did NOT fix the 'downshift SLAM into 1st gear' I was experiencing with my 2005 545i.
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  #13  
Old 11-12-2009, 08:45 PM
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TopDownInFL TopDownInFL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart001 View Post
I read that quite a while ago, and it did NOT fix the 'downshift SLAM into 1st gear' I was experiencing with my 2005 545i.
I had that same issue with my '05 545. The reset did fix it.
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  #14  
Old 11-12-2009, 11:30 PM
sbrown712 sbrown712 is offline
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Location: Atlanta, Ga.
 
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I did this to my car a while back. One thing to keep in mind, if you baby the car after doing it you probably won't notice much change. I'm not saying that you need to go out and drive it like you stole it. What you will be doing to reteaching the transmission to your style of driving. I bought my 530 used and did this just a few days after getting the car. I noticed a marked improvement in both up and down shifts. As I understand it, it takes about 100 miles for the changes to be learned and used. A coworker did his car on my suggestion and he said that the downshifts in particular were much smoother after the reset.
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  #15  
Old 11-13-2009, 04:29 AM
wael farhat wael farhat is offline
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Location: lebanon
 
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Posts: 30
Mein Auto: 530i year 2004
How to reset the automatic transmission of a 530i year 2004?

Last edited by wael farhat; 11-13-2009 at 04:45 AM.
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  #16  
Old 12-01-2014, 12:12 AM
burner2004 burner2004 is offline
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Location: Cyprus
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 6
Mein Auto: BMW520D,E60,Y 2006,Msport
Unhappy

Hi guys,

A quick question from a noobie. I am experiencing only the rough idle situation when stopped. Basically the engine shakes the car a bit more than normal. I do not experience any delay or problems when changing gears manually or automatic. I have the E60 520D model march 2006. My question is:

Can I simply clean this part from that bad looking stuff on it without replacing the part?

From what I saw this part is like 200 USD, which will mean that in my country Cyprus they will be like 250 euro, which is not little.

Are there any consequences of not changing this Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit ?

Thanks in advance.








Quote:
Originally Posted by artisthand View Post
try this it's easy to do only 5 minutes and solved all your rough idle and check engine light problems on your (2000-2009) later or newer yes! all BMW E60, X3, X5, 325i,330i,335i,525i,528i,530i,535i,... check out the manifold adjuster Google this up.

That appears to have been the problem the whole time. This is what caused the check engine light and O2 sensor fault and misfire codes. listed below are the codes that are caused by a broken Intake Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit!!!

Ignore these codes after changing your broken or damage Intake Manifold Runner Valve/adjuster Unit these codes will be gone.

P0171 = Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean

P0174 = Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean

P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

P1083 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1085 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1

P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3

P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4

P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5

P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6


The adjuster's part description on www.ecstuning.com
Air adjustment unit controls the path of the air in the intake manifold, allowing either a shorter or longer runner length. A common source of trouble causing low RPM sluggishness and accompanied by a clicking sound from the engine bay. The exact symptoms.

Location on driver's side. I already removed the two T40 bolts (upper right and lower middle.) Then simply pull the adjuster unit straight back out towards you. ( 5 minutes)
After removing the manifold adjuster you can also clean your idle control valve (ICV). It's easy to remove the ICV 12 minutes job and clean it with the Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner!!!








I can feel the difference in the acceleration and there's no slight hesitation or engine rough idle and after clearing the check engine light it will not come back on!!!
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-01-2014, 05:30 AM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Location: Ft. Lauderdale and Connecticut
 
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Posts: 1,874
Mein Auto: 2007 530
Quote:
Originally Posted by burner2004 View Post
Hi guys,

A quick question from a noobie. I am experiencing only the rough idle situation when stopped. Basically the engine shakes the car a bit more than normal. I do not experience any delay or problems when changing gears manually or automatic. I have the E60 520D model march 2006. My question is:

Can I simply clean this part from that bad looking stuff on it without replacing the part?

From what I saw this part is like 200 USD, which will mean that in my country Cyprus they will be like 250 euro, which is not little.

Are there any consequences of not changing this Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit ?

Thanks in advance.
You should start a new thread. Burying it at the bottom of a 5 year old one will not get you the visibility you want.

In any case, that's a DISA valve. Search by that name.

It failed often on the M54 engine, but there are rebuild kits for it. It fails less often on the N54, but it requires a replacement.

I don't know which type (if any) is on the "d". You should raise the question in the Diesel forum, below.
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