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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 01-30-2008, 06:07 PM
Ryan M Ryan M is offline
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Sorry razzy no idea.
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  #27  
Old 01-30-2008, 08:07 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzy530 View Post
ok, what about on a 2002 530i? where is it located?
Not sure and I'm too lazy to go look now, but I think it's still under the intake manifold, but just not attached to the manifold. The easy way to find it is to follow the large plastic tube that comes off the valve cover at the front of the engine.
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  #28  
Old 01-31-2008, 08:02 AM
Bimmerfied Bimmerfied is offline
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awsome

great write up i need to do mine also i have the same problem. never worked on a bimmer but it doesnt look that bad. how much for the part (ccv) ?
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  #29  
Old 01-31-2008, 09:37 AM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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Do you want me to move this to the DIY section or would you like to write up something separate for in there?
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  #30  
Old 01-31-2008, 11:45 AM
jfive96 jfive96 is offline
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- -Price- -

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmerfied View Post
great write up i need to do mine also i have the same problem. never worked on a bimmer but it doesnt look that bad. how much for the part (ccv) ?
- -The correct part costed me $60 and some change.- -
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  #31  
Old 01-31-2008, 11:46 AM
jfive96 jfive96 is offline
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Originally Posted by Ågent99 View Post
Do you want me to move this to the DIY section or would you like to write up something separate for in there?
- -If you think the write up is ok how it is then sure move it to the DIY section. If there are areas I can improve the write up on I can redo it. Will it also be linked to this forum?- -
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Last edited by jfive96; 01-31-2008 at 11:48 AM. Reason: more text
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  #32  
Old 05-04-2008, 12:58 PM
psmoodey psmoodey is offline
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Hello,
I am replacing my oil separator on my BMW 2002 X5...looks like the layout is a little different from other model. Has anyone replaced the oil separator on an X5? Any insights, write-ups or pictures you can provide would be most helpful.

Paul.
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  #33  
Old 10-19-2008, 08:32 AM
TxTorqueMade TxTorqueMade is offline
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CCV/oil separator for 2002 330i DIY requested

Would love to see a DIY on this. Anyone up on this one?
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  #34  
Old 10-19-2008, 09:52 AM
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My 528i's engine stumbles and rocks back and forth for about 10-15 seconds @ cold start up every morning... then its as if something clicks on and the engine idles smooth as butter after that. Could the CCV do this? I'm also thinking its the SAP.
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  #35  
Old 10-19-2008, 03:00 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Don't know if this will help you but this is the way that I replaced my ccv valve a month or so ago, this is for models 2001 and newer

To replace the ccv valve--do the following--remove the air box-remove the hoses all the way to the throttle body and idle control valve-remove the disa valve -two torx bolts hold it on then just pull out towards you--remove the bolts under that that hold the mounts for the idle control valve and remove that part
then remove the throttle body and then there is a electrical junction box just left of the throttle body--unbolt that and move it out of the way--next there is a bolt that holds down the oil dipstick--take it out and swing the dipstick back to the side--then you can remove the throttle body----now you will be able to see the ccv valve--there are three plastic hoses hooked to it---BREAK THEM--there is no way to remove them and remove the ccv valve belive me (order all three hoses) There is one or two sheet metal screws that hold the sucker in there--You may have to remove the purge valve from its rubber mount also--it just slides out and you can move it off to the side as well---along with that I really belive that you should replace the 0 rings in the distributation unit as well---I'll post along a thread I started back a few weeks ago to give you better understanding on some of the parts I'm mentioning above. Read all the way to the end on the below.
The hose that goes to the distribitor unit from the ccv is keyed at the ccv fitting--you put the hose on the cvv and turn it clockwise and it is then locked---don't miss that or you can have trouble


Lets try again--
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1079942

Last edited by poolman; 11-07-2008 at 08:06 AM.
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  #36  
Old 10-20-2008, 12:26 PM
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  #37  
Old 10-20-2008, 03:14 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Thanks Doru---Can't figure what happened there--I edited the post and added the link back and checked it three tims and it worked OK--lets see what happens--It is the link for Battleing Vac links along with a couple of new posts I made there the other day.
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  #38  
Old 10-20-2008, 09:49 PM
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i just cleaned mine, out while i had replace the the cps on my car. the car starts up better and seems to hold the rpm's up durring warm up, and the rough idle seems to be better for now. but it was and is still nasty. i had clunks of stuff come out when i cleaned it. but i plan on replacing it. the hardest part about removing it was not breaking the plastic hose.
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  #39  
Old 10-22-2008, 11:07 AM
xisco44 xisco44 is offline
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whats the name of this part or the part number
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  #40  
Old 10-22-2008, 12:37 PM
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rivercity rivercity is offline
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It's called the purge valve, or the technical name is the "fuel tank breather valve", part number 13901744150.......
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  #41  
Old 11-06-2008, 07:19 PM
01530iwhite 01530iwhite is offline
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subscribed to this thread thanks to poolman...great info hope it helps me to get my CCV replaced
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  #42  
Old 03-13-2010, 09:11 AM
Kardanill Kardanill is offline
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CCV and Oil filter housing

Just thought I would add a couple of comments of my own. I recently went to remove my oil filler cap and found it to be ceased, could not remove. I tried to remove when the engine compartment was warm and sure enough cap came off, as it was frozen on due to moisture built-up. To my surprise, the cap looked like a milkshake exploded on it. I also found a massive oil leak around the head gasket area. Of course my first thought was head gasket and huge $$$ to fix. Long story short, I took an oil sample in to have checked and sure enough, water in the oil. After reading all of the forums, I decided to spend my $2.00 for oil filter housing gasket and $180 for winter version of CCV (I'm up in Canada and we easily hit -40 Celsius in winter) and see if I could fix this problem, as I could not believe it was the head gasket. I have read many forums that say the winter version of the CCV is a pia to change, I didn't find it that hard. I took the filter housing off and sure enough, leaking like a SOB. Then started disconnecting all lines leading to CCV and guess what, water started to pour out! I also found a big hunk of ice in the line that leads to the bottom of the CCV, check out the attached pics. All-and-all both problems fixed in a few hours. I'm sure the stealer would have charged be well over $1500 to fix! One thing to watch out for on the new CCV. The insulated jacked is held together by these lame o-rings that kept coming off when trying to squeeze the CCV in place. Some forums write that you need to modify the new CCV by shaving and cutting. I found that I did not have to do this, just have a lot of patience and a couple of cold beers. To boot, I did this in my garage in -15c!
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Last edited by Kardanill; 03-13-2010 at 09:20 AM.
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  #43  
Old 03-29-2010, 09:24 PM
Breez II Breez II is offline
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Thumbs up

This looks like a great discription on the DIY for the CCV...will tackle the job on my '97 528i..thanx for the great info.
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  #44  
Old 03-30-2010, 09:45 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breez II View Post
This looks like a great discription on the DIY for the CCV...will tackle the job on my '97 528i..thanx for the great info.
Actually you need to do more than the CCV.

I wrote a comprehensive DIY here:
1- Replacing Oil Line to Vanos (mine is leaking).
2- Replacing CCV and hoses (preventive).
3- Cleaning ICV and replace its hoses (preventive).
4- Cleaning Alternator Air Duct and Installed Gutter Guard to prevent leaves from being sucked in.
5. All vacuum hoses
6. Intake Gaskets etc.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225
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  #45  
Old 11-19-2010, 07:29 PM
MDrive MDrive is offline
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CCV replaced in 45 min

These posts helped me do my 99 M Coupe (S52) in about 45 minutes. My task may have been simpler than others because of model differences, but here is what I did.

I bought a 10mm ratcheting box end from Sears...

Removed the air filter box.

Removed the crankcase vent pipe (to CCV).

Removed the vent tube from the lower connection leading to the dipstick tube.

Loosened one hose clamp to give access to the first of the three 10mm bolts holding the CCV on its bracket.

Removed the 3 10mm bolts (thank you, Sears), then removed the CCV...snaking it forward over the alternator into the space made available by removing the air filter box. Minor maneuvering required.

I then attached the new vent tube to the bottom of the new CCV and installed them (after inserting a new rubber grommet to the underside of the intake manifold). The 3 10mm bolts installed easily with the ratcheting box end.

Attached the vent tube to the dipstick tube. Attached the crankcase vent pipe. Tightened the hose clamp. Installed the air filter box.

Done in 45 minutes. No misadventures in this case.

Hope it helps.
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  #46  
Old 11-20-2010, 10:14 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDrive View Post
here is what I did.
FWIW, I've never done any of this, but, I tried to collect the relevant threads together to help others (and perhaps even me, in the future) do their CCV properly.

Here's what I've come up with (so far):
- CCV FAILS: crankcase ventilation valve diaphragm tears, freezes (1), &/or clogs (1), necessitating CCV replacement (M54,M54,M54) (M52,M52) (M52TU) (M62,M62) ('99 528i) ('98 528i); raising pressures, often causing the OFH oil filter housing to leak (1); frequently blowing the VCG valve cover gasket (1); and sometimes the head gasket (1); often causing vacuum leaks (1) (2) (3)

Please improve!
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  #47  
Old 04-16-2011, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
FWIW...Here's what I've come up with (so far)
Recently added this combined reference:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > How to test the BMW E39 pressure-controlled crankcase ventilation system (CCV)?

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  #48  
Old 04-16-2011, 10:35 AM
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540indiana 540indiana is offline
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  #49  
Old 06-10-2011, 09:07 PM
ztitans1 ztitans1 is offline
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This post helped a lot. Replaced my CCV in about 3 hours (taking my time so I would not break anything). Engine was cutting out at idle and running very rough with a loud vacuum leak somwhere below the intake. It was the CCV and/or the two hoses connected to it. Replaced all the above spending less than $100 total.
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  #50  
Old 07-30-2012, 07:44 PM
gdharvey gdharvey is offline
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Replace Crank Case Vent Hose "ONLY"

Anybody just replace the Crank Case Vent hose (from VCG to CCV)?? I see all the posts related to replacing either the CCV and everything attached to it but I'm only looking to replace my cracked hose. The car is otherwise fine. I noticed it was cracked during routine maintenance of replacing the VCG.
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