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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-27-2008, 09:00 PM
jsayreshepherd jsayreshepherd is offline
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Has anyone successfully resolved P0740 (TCC malfunction)?

By successfully I mean sans trans-rebuild and not just ignoring it.

The code is P0740 - torque converter clutch circuit malfunction. Searching for this CEL code, there it seems that some folks clear the code and ignore it, others change the tranny fluid and ignore it, and one guy (splitsensam) had to rebuild his transmission. I have a 99 528iT with 110k and the GM 4 speed, the fluid and filter were changed (with Redline) at 60k, it's never slipped, never hesitated going into gear, and this code popped up on Friday.

Whatever this is a precursor of, I'd like to resolve it before it becomes something major rather than just letting it be - if anyone has experience with this trouble code I'd appreciate the insight. I'm going to consult my indy as well, so I'll keep everything posted and hopefully contribute to the public knowledge.

I sure hope it's something that can be taken care of relatively inexpensively.....but if it's a rebuild than I'll try to think positive, like m3 6-speed positive.

TIA
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2008, 11:11 PM
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SI B 24 08 00 FC 48 "Solenoid Valve Converter Lock-up Clutch" Stored in the TCM/EGS for all E39 528iA/iAT with 5L40E (GM5) states to check the transmission fluid level and condition. If the transmission fluid and level is OK, replace the solenoid valve for the converter lock-up clutch (TCC solenoid).If the condition of the fluid isn't up to par,a solenoid wouldn't fix worn gears.Since you have taken care of your vehicle and you stated that there are NO abnormal shift characteristics,replace the (P/N 24 32 7 504 743) TCC solenoid (TCC pressure regulator).If there are other faults such as speed monitoring,don't waste your money (approx. $300.00 or more) for the solenoid and the oil.

If you have the GM4 (THMR1) transmission like you say you do.You need to locate the Identification plate anyways to get the SERIAL NUMBER of the transmission so write down all the information on the label to verify the model of your transmission.If the Serial Number is 5215898 or LOWER, install the TCC kit p/n
24 27 1 423 311
. IF HIGHER,the torque converter needs to be replaced.Before all these repairs can be made,an important test needs to be performed in order to repair the problem correctly without spending a lot of money.If the fluid quality is okay,you need to ACTIVATE the TCC Solenoid and check its ON/OFF operation.You will be able to hear a clicking sound if it works and continue with the steps outlined above.
If the solenoid doesn't click when activated ON/OFF,you only need to replace the TCC Solenoid with P/N 24 33 1 218 916.An assumption could be made by verifying that the fault is currently present.If it is,the solenoid is just dead/cannot be energized.If the fault is NOT present,it means the solenoid is working and you can end up with a few dollars shy of replacing the whole transmission.You could then clear the fault and sell it to someone in another county or state.If you are "mechanically able",the diagnostic part would be the hardest.The rest would be simply nuts and bolts for someone like you. Good luck !!!
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  #3  
Old 01-28-2008, 08:23 AM
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SPLITSENSETAM SPLITSENSETAM is offline
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Yep thats what i needed replaced
1, TCC SOLENOID
2,SHIFT PRESSURE SOLENOID
3,NEW TORQUE CONVERTER

I did the rebuild cause they advise it would be better just to open it up to see if any gears were damaged or worn out ( since i had hard shifting and no lock up in 4th gear also had grinding noises in the cold mornings ...i wanted the car to stay around for a while so i gave the ok for the rebuild
turned out that it was still in pretty good shape so it was a minor rebuild mostly just the stuff i quoted above was replaced with a rebuild kit ( clutch bands etc etc ) and now i have no po740 code anymore and my tranny is 100% ,,,got all my power back and peace of mind
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  #4  
Old 01-28-2008, 09:09 AM
jsayreshepherd jsayreshepherd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_tech View Post
SI B 24 08 00 FC 48 "Solenoid Valve Converter Lock-up Clutch" Stored in the TCM/EGS for all E39 528iA/iAT with 5L40E (GM5) states to check the transmission fluid level and condition. If the transmission fluid and level is OK, replace the solenoid valve for the converter lock-up clutch (TCC solenoid).If the condition of the fluid isn't up to par,a solenoid wouldn't fix worn gears.Since you have taken care of your vehicle and you stated that there are NO abnormal shift characteristics,replace the (P/N 24 32 7 504 743) TCC solenoid (TCC pressure regulator).If there are other faults such as speed monitoring,don't waste your money (approx. $300.00 or more) for the solenoid and the oil.

If you have the GM4 (THMR1) transmission like you say you do.You need to locate the Identification plate anyways to get the SERIAL NUMBER of the transmission so write down all the information on the label to verify the model of your transmission.If the Serial Number is 5215898 or LOWER, install the TCC kit p/n
24 27 1 423 311
. IF HIGHER,the torque converter needs to be replaced.Before all these repairs can be made,an important test needs to be performed in order to repair the problem correctly without spending a lot of money.If the fluid quality is okay,you need to ACTIVATE the TCC Solenoid and check its ON/OFF operation.You will be able to hear a clicking sound if it works and continue with the steps outlined above.
If the solenoid doesn't click when activated ON/OFF,you only need to replace the TCC Solenoid with P/N 24 33 1 218 916.An assumption could be made by verifying that the fault is currently present.If it is,the solenoid is just dead/cannot be energized.If the fault is NOT present,it means the solenoid is working and you can end up with a few dollars shy of replacing the whole transmission.You could then clear the fault and sell it to someone in another county or state.If you are "mechanically able",the diagnostic part would be the hardest.The rest would be simply nuts and bolts for someone like you. Good luck !!!
Thank you for your detailed input. The fluid should be in good shape, since has been changed within 50k miles and not driven overly hard. I didn't know that there was a GM 5-speed available, I always thought that it was either GM4 or ZF 5-speed step. I suppose I must have the 4 since my gear shift indicator goes 1,2,3,D. Here's hoping that I have the lower serial number and can maybe get away with just the solenoid and some new fluid. I was planning a fluid change at 120k anyways.

I wonder why the later units need an entire tc replacement? Is there a way to identify the serial number without crawling under the car?

Thanks again.
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2008, 09:12 AM
jsayreshepherd jsayreshepherd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLITSENSETAM View Post
Yep thats what i needed replaced
1, TCC SOLENOID
2,SHIFT PRESSURE SOLENOID
3,NEW TORQUE CONVERTER

I did the rebuild cause they advise it would be better just to open it up to see if any gears were damaged or worn out ( since i had hard shifting and no lock up in 4th gear also had grinding noises in the cold mornings ...i wanted the car to stay around for a while so i gave the ok for the rebuild
turned out that it was still in pretty good shape so it was a minor rebuild mostly just the stuff i quoted above was replaced with a rebuild kit ( clutch bands etc etc ) and now i have no po740 code anymore and my tranny is 100% ,,,got all my power back and peace of mind
I read a post of yours and it seemed like you may have inherited the car with these problems. I have no noises, and 90% of my shifts are imperceptible (you can occasionally feel 1-2 if you're in traffic and have to let off the gas just before the shift, but 2-3 and 3-4 you can only tell from the tach). How could you tell that there was no lock up in 4th? How much was your total bill? TIA
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  #6  
Old 01-28-2008, 09:53 AM
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I have heared people with this code and no problems with the tranny ..i wasnt so lucky im pretty positive i got screwed when buying the car ..after buy i noticed that the cel would come on in off couple months off and then full months on ..car was shifting alittle rough but still had 4th gear ....after 5 months of ownership ...you can feel the tranny messing up ..no power ..i would feel 2-3 very hard & 2-1 hard downshift that would jerk your head very violent ..and the car didnt go pass 3th gear ..i know cause i would watch for the rpm drop ...but that wasnt the case in 3th it was going pass 4000 rpm thats where i knew i had to get it in the shop before i dont have any gears at all ...the whole job cost me around 2500 ..the basic rebuild for this tranny was 1900 ....but my luck i need a new tc ....and all those other things i stated above on my first post ....it sucked to have to pay all that money ..its better finding a used tranny and just swaping it out ,,,much cheaper u can find the units on ebay for 1200 ..figure another 400 for labor ...much cheaper route than what i went through ..it was a nightmare //luckly i had my new credit card so im just paying it off slowly .

good luck

btw u prob could be in good shape as you said your fluid seemed ok
mine was burnt black as night ..dont think it was ever serviced ..at i had 95k when i did the rebuid
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  #7  
Old 01-28-2008, 10:53 AM
jsayreshepherd jsayreshepherd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLITSENSETAM View Post
I have heared people with this code and no problems with the tranny ..i wasnt so lucky im pretty positive i got screwed when buying the car ..after buy i noticed that the cel would come on in off couple months off and then full months on ..car was shifting alittle rough but still had 4th gear ....after 5 months of ownership ...you can feel the tranny messing up ..no power ..i would feel 2-3 very hard & 2-1 hard downshift that would jerk your head very violent ..and the car didnt go pass 3th gear ..i know cause i would watch for the rpm drop ...but that wasnt the case in 3th it was going pass 4000 rpm thats where i knew i had to get it in the shop before i dont have any gears at all ...the whole job cost me around 2500 ..the basic rebuild for this tranny was 1900 ....but my luck i need a new tc ....and all those other things i stated above on my first post ....it sucked to have to pay all that money ..its better finding a used tranny and just swaping it out ,,,much cheaper u can find the units on ebay for 1200 ..figure another 400 for labor ...much cheaper route than what i went through ..it was a nightmare //luckly i had my new credit card so im just paying it off slowly .

good luck

btw u prob could be in good shape as you said your fluid seemed ok
mine was burnt black as night ..dont think it was ever serviced ..at i had 95k when i did the rebuid

I haven't actually checked the fluid since I made this post, so I don't know for certain that it's clean, but I do know that the transmission has been properly serviced.

Fortunately, I don't have any of your symptoms. I've had the car for a couple of years, and this is the first P0740 (only one other CEL period, that was for a leaky boot). There were no other codes, and no stored codes. I've driven about 50 miles since clearing the code and it hasn't come back. All gears shift fine, and even the shifts that are noticable and not at all jerky. I don't think that there's power loss, but in a 528iT with a slushie you always want more of it. Hopefully this isn't as major.

I do know that I'm now going to be following Redshift's auto to manual conversion on his touring with renewed interest.
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  #8  
Old 01-28-2008, 12:15 PM
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Sounds like you have nothing to worry about ,,i would just drain and refill new atf with filter ...and see what happens
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  #9  
Old 01-29-2008, 09:17 PM
millarduck millarduck is offline
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I ultimately had to get a torque converter. BMW paid for the part, I paid labor. Mine went with 76,000 miles.
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  #10  
Old 04-07-2009, 11:46 PM
buche buche is offline
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Hello Folks,

I just checked theese theme as it just appeared on my Car. actually i do not feel any fault while I'm driving, but during the diagnostics it says:

EGS transmission control
DTC: Description
111 Converter lockupclutch/Gear monitoring (OBDII:Po740:EUIII:P0710)

Can you advice me what is this problem and if it is major or i can continue drive my car as it still doesn't feels while driving?

I checked fluid level and engineer told me that its ok.
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  #11  
Old 11-07-2009, 04:33 AM
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gtxragtop gtxragtop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_tech View Post
SI B 24 08 00 FC 48 "Solenoid Valve Converter Lock-up Clutch" Stored in the TCM/EGS for all E39 528iA/iAT with 5L40E (GM5) states to check the transmission fluid level and condition. If the transmission fluid and level is OK, replace the solenoid valve for the converter lock-up clutch (TCC solenoid).If the condition of the fluid isn't up to par,a solenoid wouldn't fix worn gears.Since you have taken care of your vehicle and you stated that there are NO abnormal shift characteristics,replace the (P/N 24 32 7 504 743) TCC solenoid (TCC pressure regulator).If there are other faults such as speed monitoring,don't waste your money (approx. $300.00 or more) for the solenoid and the oil.

If you have the GM4 (THMR1) transmission like you say you do.You need to locate the Identification plate anyways to get the SERIAL NUMBER of the transmission so write down all the information on the label to verify the model of your transmission.If the Serial Number is 5215898 or LOWER, install the TCC kit p/n
24 27 1 423 311
. IF HIGHER,the torque converter needs to be replaced.Before all these repairs can be made,an important test needs to be performed in order to repair the problem correctly without spending a lot of money.If the fluid quality is okay,you need to ACTIVATE the TCC Solenoid and check its ON/OFF operation.You will be able to hear a clicking sound if it works and continue with the steps outlined above.
If the solenoid doesn't click when activated ON/OFF,you only need to replace the TCC Solenoid with P/N 24 33 1 218 916.An assumption could be made by verifying that the fault is currently present.If it is,the solenoid is just dead/cannot be energized.If the fault is NOT present,it means the solenoid is working and you can end up with a few dollars shy of replacing the whole transmission.You could then clear the fault and sell it to someone in another county or state.If you are "mechanically able",the diagnostic part would be the hardest.The rest would be simply nuts and bolts for someone like you. Good luck !!!
So short of going to the dealer with special diagnostic equipment, how does one activate the TCC solenoid? I suppose one could wire up 12V? and GND to the transmission connector to that solenoid but this seems risky.
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2009, 01:09 PM
SPORTSTER 94 SPORTSTER 94 is offline
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So has anyone actually fixed this problem or not? I have a '99 528i with the p0740 code. It seems to be shifting smoothly. Can the solenoid be accessed just by dropping the pan? Where's the least expensive place to buy new trans fluid? I also have a tinny rattling noise coming from under the car but nothing's loose. Could it be coming from inside the trans? Sorry for all the questions but I'm new to BMWs and so far I'm not real happy...Steve
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  #13  
Old 08-25-2010, 01:26 PM
philipk2003 philipk2003 is offline
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Hi, can you give give me a few sentences of how to actually change TCC solenoid? I'm familiar with the whole dropping the pan and changing the ATF routine. Just wanted some guidance on how to change the TCC solenoid.

Thanks!!! Philip
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  #14  
Old 08-25-2010, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxragtop View Post
So short of going to the dealer with special diagnostic equipment, how does one activate the TCC solenoid? I suppose one could wire up 12V? and GND to the transmission connector to that solenoid but this seems risky.
I bought the Bavarian Technic software / cable $289 and with it on my NB, I could activate the solenoid in question... without this (cheapest I found) you are SOL as it is a control command in the tranny ECU.

There is a TSB on the ZF 5HP-19 in later 530i's like mine... I had a BMW dealer check my ATF, looked clean, fine, level ok, I have all the stuff to do the 3x Valvoline MaxLife ATF service (just not the time). After that I'm going to write a letter to BMW NA and see what they say... there appear to be enough people here that got BMW NA to pay for part or all of the repair when out of warranty so legally BMW NA cant say no to any of us, they just do and nobody fights back I guess...

End game is a $1600-$2000 TC repair (www.dosebmw.com in southern CA was really helpful).
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2010, 03:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philipk2003 View Post
Hi, can you give give me a few sentences of how to actually change TCC solenoid? I'm familiar with the whole dropping the pan and changing the ATF routine. Just wanted some guidance on how to change the TCC solenoid.

Thanks!!! Philip
Bought a new one, change the solenoid, replaced 6qts of ESSO LT71141 $17/qt fluid and it did nothing. Final fix was a rebuilt TC. Do a search for more details.
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  #16  
Old 03-22-2011, 07:55 PM
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TCC circuit Malfunction

Don't buy anew transmission, get in touch through pinymaber@yahoo.com and I will take you through the process. It is an emissions problem and not transmission although if left unattended it affects the transmission when in cruising speeds due to overheating transmission fluid.
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  #17  
Old 04-20-2011, 05:55 AM
yellowbird911 yellowbird911 is offline
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Thought I would share my dealing with this little code. Please forgive grammer and spelling errors as I am writing this quickly at work. So I bought my 1997 BMW 528I Auto from a friend of mine. I had serviced the car for him for the past 4 years. This lead me to believe that I know the car and it had not real issues, stupid..stupid. First it was his wifes car and she only drove the car in town and never really got to 55 mph so he never got the 0740 code. I drive on the interstate so on my way home the code came up.

After much research I replaced the solenoid, filter and fluid. This did not fix the code and after more reading and speaking to transmission shops rarely does. So if you think it is the solenoid, remove it and check it first before you waste the money.

Next was to pull the trans and replace the TC. This was easier than I expected and only took me a total of 4 hours with out a lift. Of course this did not fix it. Interesting though is that it would lock up under light acceleration but would not stay locked.

OK so now I have decided it is low line pressure that is causing the problem. This is not confirmed since I did not have the equipment to test the line pressure. After more research and speaking with a BMW mechanic that had installed the BWM update kits in other cars I felt sure this was the fix.

I always wanted to rebuild an automatic trans so off I went. I have rebuilt everything from Porsche 911 motors to turbos to manual transmissions so I felt comfortable attempting it. So I purchased the manual and a complete rebuild kit since I was in there anyway and the car had 145k on it. I did not however purchase the actual BMW seal update kit since my kit supplier said the seal update kit applied to all 4L30E transmissions and was included in the kit. The rebuild was easy and if you carefully, very carefully follow the steps and double and triple check you did not leave anything out of place it will go smoothly. Only of couple of odd tool are required and was able to use clamps and other devices to get it done. I did have to purchase the seal compression tool for the main shaft to compress the teflon seals. All back together and you guessed it, still TCC is not locking up and 0740 code is present. Now I am PISSED.

More research and talking to different transmission mechanics. One fellow recommended the Superior Transmissions Shift correction kit. I contacted the company and was told that line pressure is one of the main things this kit is suppose to correct. You also can decide if you want a little firmer shifts or really firm shifts. Also I was told that the transmission did not have to come back out but that was incorrect &^$*!! So out the trans comes agian. By the way I can have the trans out in 1:20 from the time the car rolls into my garage. The intall of the kit is easy but the most important spring is the one that goes in to the pressure regulator inside the trans. Other springs go in the valve body. I left out the spring that causes harsh shifts. All back together with no leaks and BINGO problem SOLVED.

The shifts are firmer than stock but I pull a small 1600 lb trailer some so I feel the firmer shifts will protect the trans. The shifts are not harsh at all but you can feel the change, more so from 1-2 and 2-3. Since 3-4 shift is not modifed with any springs it feels normal. Under hard acceration the shift are quite firm but still not harsh. If I was to do it again I would only install the regulator spring and leave all the valve body springs alone. I feel the shifts would still be a little firmer because of the higher line pressure but would keep the stock feel. This may or may not work but the valve body is easy to get to if it didn't. The kit cost 39.00 and was worth every penny.

I have over 6K on the transmission after the rebuild and shift correction kit and it works flawlessly.
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:07 AM
BimmerM3inGA BimmerM3inGA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowbird911
More research and talking to different transmission mechanics. One fellow recommended the Superior Transmissions Shift correction kit. I contacted the company and was told that line pressure is one of the main things this kit is suppose to correct. You also can decide if you want a little firmer shifts or really firm shifts. Also I was told that the transmission did not have to come back out but that was incorrect &^$*!! So out the trans comes agian. By the way I can have the trans out in 1:20 from the time the car rolls into my garage. The intall of the kit is easy but the most important spring is the one that goes in to the pressure regulator inside the trans. Other springs go in the valve body. I left out the spring that causes harsh shifts. All back together with no leaks and BINGO problem SOLVED.
I looked at the Superior site and there are a lot of shift correction kits. Which is the one you ordered? How is it holding up?
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  #19  
Old 06-28-2011, 11:07 PM
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adjmcloon adjmcloon is offline
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I have a '99 touring with the GM 4 speed. Would this issue cause the tranny to be slow to shift into reverse? My indy says it's the clutch pack going bad and the transmission will need to be replaced. I haven't had any codes (yet)
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  #20  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:30 AM
salvine salvine is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_tech View Post
SI B 24 08 00 FC 48 "Solenoid Valve Converter Lock-up Clutch" Stored in the TCM/EGS for all E39 528iA/iAT with 5L40E (GM5) states to check the transmission fluid level and condition. If the transmission fluid and level is OK, replace the solenoid valve for the converter lock-up clutch (TCC solenoid).If the condition of the fluid isn't up to par,a solenoid wouldn't fix worn gears.Since you have taken care of your vehicle and you stated that there are NO abnormal shift characteristics,replace the (P/N 24 32 7 504 743) TCC solenoid (TCC pressure regulator).If there are other faults such as speed monitoring,don't waste your money (approx. $300.00 or more) for the solenoid and the oil.

If you have the GM4 (THMR1) transmission like you say you do.You need to locate the Identification plate anyways to get the SERIAL NUMBER of the transmission so write down all the information on the label to verify the model of your transmission.If the Serial Number is 5215898 or LOWER, install the TCC kit p/n
24 27 1 423 311
. IF HIGHER,the torque converter needs to be replaced.Before all these repairs can be made,an important test needs to be performed in order to repair the problem correctly without spending a lot of money.If the fluid quality is okay,you need to ACTIVATE the TCC Solenoid and check its ON/OFF operation.You will be able to hear a clicking sound if it works and continue with the steps outlined above.
If the solenoid doesn't click when activated ON/OFF,you only need to replace the TCC Solenoid with P/N 24 33 1 218 916.An assumption could be made by verifying that the fault is currently present.If it is,the solenoid is just dead/cannot be energized.If the fault is NOT present,it means the solenoid is working and you can end up with a few dollars shy of replacing the whole transmission.You could then clear the fault and sell it to someone in another county or state.If you are "mechanically able",the diagnostic part would be the hardest.The rest would be simply nuts and bolts for someone like you. Good luck !!!

I'll PM you with some questions on this.
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  #21  
Old 08-05-2013, 10:16 PM
cruizer26 cruizer26 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buche View Post
Hello Folks,

I just checked theese theme as it just appeared on my Car. actually i do not feel any fault while I'm driving, but during the diagnostics it says:

EGS transmission control
DTC: Description
111 Converter lockupclutch/Gear monitoring (OBDII:Po740:EUIII:P0710)

Can you advice me what is this problem and if it is major or i can continue drive my car as it still doesn't feels while driving?

I checked fluid level and engineer told me that its ok.
I rebuilt the transmission on my 01 740i, with zf5hp24 transmission with 105k miles. I had a bad bearing inside of clutch A which didn't allow the 1st and 2nd gear to engage properly. I used my same Torque Converter (I capitalized it to noted better) and I would have a hard downshifting from 2nd to 1st. I even rebuilt the valve body and changed all the solenoids. So after that hard downshifting, especially after the car warmed up stuck in traffic and after a hard braking, I figured I needed to replace the Torque Converter as well. I bought a supposedly rebuilt one from TCM (a company that specializes in Torque Converters only!) in Los Angeles, Ca., and I asked them if they were zero balanced, and they told me that they were, so I paid $300. What made me hesitate was the fact that they had to "rebuild it" and ship it to me the following day, so I agreed. I installed this past weekend, eager to see the car burn asphalt, but when I turned it on, I hear a clunking sound coming from the converter. I drove it for a while to see if it needed to get well lubricated but the clunking noise became louder. I called the guys at TCM and they told me to remove it and bring it in for testing (shouldn't they have tested it before they shipped it to me?). I drove it today and it seemed like the noise was gone, but before I drove home the "check engine" light came on with a generic code of P0740 (Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Open). I never had this code before with my old converter, and I checked the solenoids with INPA, especially the TCC Solenoid, so I am 99.9% positive that in my case it is the Torque Converter that I installed from them. I am also having some vibration from the TC, which I do not want to drive the car much so I do not damage the tranny's shaft bearing, bushing and seal. I will post my results once I get my issue resolved. I almost want to ask for a refund and pay a little more for a high performance TC from IPT or Precision, which I know they will stand by their product. I do not have much trust in TCM because they open these TC's and only replace what they see it is necessary, and not what it is feasible, especially when a part such as this is sealed.

Last edited by cruizer26; 08-05-2013 at 10:19 PM.
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