2007-2010 X3 Automatic Transmission Problem Master Thread!

Has this issue been resolved? I am planning on buying a 2007 X3 3.0 Diesel. Apparently used to be a dealer demo version when the person bought it and now he is selling it after 2 years. I am guessing since it was the demo version they must have kept the software etc up to date.

Originally Posted by skirulz

Has this issue been resolved? I am planning on buying a 2007 X3 3.0 Diesel. Apparently used to be a dealer demo version when the person bought it and now he is selling it after 2 years. I am guessing since it was the demo version they must have kept the software etc up to date.

Still rears its ugly head from time to time. Go to a dealer with vin number and ask for service record. It will tell you when and what the latest update was.

Pleaser read through sticky as their are sure fire techniques that will tell you if the car is "Cured" or not.

Did the diesels have the same transmission/software that was causing the problems? For some reason I thought they used a different box to handle the higher torque.

GM 6 speed AT and oh yes . . . Issues. The torque makes things worse I suspect. Ie any glitches in gear changes and the torque hits home.

And yet today after sitting unused for 10 days absolutely perfect. Could not fault it.

New to the forum.
I am planning on buying an x3 in the next 3 months, and was considering a 2006 model, but in my area (so cal) they tend to have high miles. (my wife has some unexplained issue with me bringing one in from another state even though they seem to have lower miles.) I would prefer a 2007 or newer model, but I'm concerned about the transmission issues, have they been fixed? I need to stay in the low 20's in price. Please forgive me if there is an answer for this already on the thread, I don't see any recent posts.

Originally Posted by cadman08

New to the forum.
I am planning on buying an x3 in the next 3 months, and was considering a 2006 model, but in my area (so cal) they tend to have high miles. (my wife has some unexplained issue with me bringing one in from another state even though they seem to have lower miles.) I would prefer a 2007 or newer model, but I'm concerned about the transmission issues, have they been fixed? I need to stay in the low 20's in price. Please forgive me if there is an answer for this already on the thread, I don't see any recent posts.

Hit or miss. Stick to the 06. Or go up to a late 09/10.

Originally Posted by cadman08

New to the forum.
I am planning on buying an x3 in the next 3 months, and was considering a 2006 model, but in my area (so cal) they tend to have high miles. (my wife has some unexplained issue with me bringing one in from another state even though they seem to have lower miles.) I would prefer a 2007 or newer model, but I'm concerned about the transmission issues, have they been fixed? I need to stay in the low 20's in price. Please forgive me if there is an answer for this already on the thread, I don't see any recent posts.

At this point I don't know if I agree with the "hit or miss". But, with any of the GM6s from 2007 and newer, please drive a varied course, vary speeds, merge onto a highway (slow down, then accelerate) and see if you feel noticeable lag or not.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by Supercourse

Lots of discussion of this in various BMW forums, and others, including Audi.

No clear indication that it works for either GM or ZF transmissions. Or both, or neither.
Some BMW techs. have been quoted as saying no such reset exists, whereas others have said online that it is real.

See: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...83&postcount=5
(From a 7 series forum, I believe.)

Anyway, I don't think you will hear a click or anything after the 25 -30 secs. - that may be distorted info. arising from the instruction to first press the pedal beyond the kickdown point where you may hear a click.

Others say that if it does anything, it puts the transmission into a sport mode (among the 5 mappings it has), and will be effective for the next start only.

Can't see that the 25 secs. has to be precise - just that holding the accelerator down that long is interpreted the same as when actually driving with a heavy foot.

A friend with similar AT issues told me today he runs the car in sport mode for a short time and this fixes his issues once he moves back to normal mode. This would kind of reinforce the above.

Hi Guys

Finally picked up a 07 BMW x3 3.0d. Havent had any issues so far. Since its done 93,000 KM i wanted to change the ATF oil just to ensure that there is fresh oil in the transmission rather then driving up to the dreaded 100000 miles tranny fail.

Not sure what ATF oil to put in there as there isnt a lot of infor on the Diesel Variance. Do i need to change the filter as well since it requires dropping the pan to get to the filter?

Any Suggestions?

Originally Posted by skirulz

Hi Guys

Finally picked up a 07 BMW x3 3.0d. Havent had any issues so far. Since its done 93,000 KM i wanted to change the ATF oil just to ensure that there is fresh oil in the transmission rather then driving up to the dreaded 100000 miles tranny fail.

Not sure what ATF oil to put in there as there isnt a lot of infor on the Diesel Variance. Do i need to change the filter as well since it requires dropping the pan to get to the filter?

Any Suggestions?

What dreaded 100000 mile fail? I have not heard much about any issues like that. Will hit 120000 miles next week - still works great!

As far as fluid, not sure if yours is different. Mine is a Dexron VI. Check the label on your transmission - that should have the specs required.

An update with my experiences with my 2007 BMW x3!
As of July 2012 >>> I bought this car used just a few months ago (in the spring) and it has just been terrible with all the problems. It has about 5 months left on a CPO warranty (thats why I bought it - thought anything that was wrong would be fixed).
I am dealing with both the transmission issue (rough, abrupt gear changes, especially while going up a gradual incline and all the other symptoms talked about here), and the loud whine from 42mph to 30mph when coasting! Have been in and out of my local bmw dealer service dept probably about 7 to 8 times in the last few months! To make a long story short after them doing the reprogramming, changing the rear differential (twice), I am still left with the same problems - no improvement, and basically they are saying there is nothing else they can do and that is just the nature of the car!
Anyone have any advice on what to do now? Has anyone had any luck talking to BMW NA or is that a waste of time? I'm to the point where I will just have to try and sell the car (and will lose quite a bit of money doing so) and never buy a BMW again! This has been such a bad experience!
Thanks!

Originally Posted by sb12759

An update with my experiences with my 2007 BMW x3!
As of July 2012 >>> I bought this car used just a few months ago (in the spring) and it has just been terrible with all the problems. It has about 5 months left on a CPO warranty (thats why I bought it - thought anything that was wrong would be fixed).
I am dealing with both the transmission issue (rough, abrupt gear changes, especially while going up a gradual incline and all the other symptoms talked about here), and the loud whine from 42mph to 30mph when coasting! Have been in and out of my local bmw dealer service dept probably about 7 to 8 times in the last few months! To make a long story short after them doing the reprogramming, changing the rear differential (twice), I am still left with the same problems - no improvement, and basically they are saying there is nothing else they can do and that is just the nature of the car!
Anyone have any advice on what to do now? Has anyone had any luck talking to BMW NA or is that a waste of time? I'm to the point where I will just have to try and sell the car (and will lose quite a bit of money doing so) and never buy a BMW again! This has been such a bad experience!
Thanks!

Sorry, but no. I ended up doing a trade assist for an MT. This is after a year of detailed documentation, down to the second with who, when , why, and where I spent conversations e mails, etc.. and quite a lot with BMWNA. Corporate will point fingers at the dealer and the dealer will claim their hands are tied because of corporate.

Some people have had success with a reflash of the ECU, but you sound like you are stuck in same boat i was, whereas 1 out of 10 are completely incurable.

My resolution was a lawyer and lots of bad publicity to the point they said they would work with me if I would stop hammering them. I believe I have the direct number to CS at BMWNA if you would like me to look.

I will never buy an AT BMW again either. Seems just about all their drive by wire vehicles have some hesitation. Some can live with this. Me I don't know I expect a $40k plus vehicle to drive like one.

That and many other reasons is why I am ordering an Audi S4 this Friday since my vehicle although running great atm is out of warranty and I am not willing to risk the costly repairs that I have seen hit this vehicle at 80k plus miles. If Dinan would come out with a chip for the N55 engine like all the other BMW that have that power plant I would give serious consideration but no other way.

Only suggestion I can think of is a "sprint booster" which is a plug in to the OBD. Really only masks the problem, but better than how it currently behaves. The other solution is to drive it like a stick, and slap shift through your gearing. Or, since the dealer can't make good on repairs ask them about getting a T/A. All they can say is no. i would try to lemon it as the clock starts ticking the first time you asked for the repair, not the last. Lemon Lawyers cost the consumer NOTHING. The dealer has to pay. Again, try it. There is hundreds of precedent cases and I would be happy to sign an affidavit to that effect.

The OP purchased a used '07 so I question if a "lemon law" is going to apply to an old used car. Perhaps some sort of action against the dealer for selling a defective car, if one can prove it somehow. I think the OP is SOL and perhaps should cut their losses and move on to a more reliable car.

Originally Posted by UncleJ

The OP purchased a used '07 so I question if a "lemon law" is going to apply to an old used car. Perhaps some sort of action against the dealer for selling a defective car, if one can prove it somehow. I think the OP is SOL and perhaps should cut their losses and move on to a more reliable car.

As I understand it, lemon laws were conceived originally to protect used car buyers and later expanded to be all encompassing.

If he reprted the issue prior to whatever time frame is allocated in his state, then he good. The clock is set at the point of the original complaint.

The best thing to do is simply contact a bunch of lemon lawyers, not just one. If they will take the case then it is a done deal. The minute lawyers get involved BMW likes to keep things off the books so they are apt to do a trade assist.

I have talked to more than a 5-6 dozen owners and the reason this problem was so low keyed with respect to the HPFP problem is BMWNA made people sign an NDA most of the time. me they screwed up with. I only signed the NDA about the pricing involved. They didnt catch it until later that i didnt sign all their tricky little paperwork.

So to the OP you have nothing to lose but the problem, and lots to gain.

Good Luck and feel free to PM. I will try to help in any legal way I can.

EE

I am currently doing a few minor things on my car such as cleaning out the roof drains, changing a dodgy light globe and doing some paintwork scratch fixes etc etc, I definitely have this auto transmission thing going on, i have an 06 diesel 3.0 (build late 05), i note its mainly the 07 models and later but i have all the symptoms.

My question is dose BMW fix this with the update for free? or do i pay some exorbitant amount for them to do this?

Keep in mind im in Australia where BMW charge crazy prices for everything which is why i do my own service/s and all minor issues.

Originally Posted by maxeaus

I am currently doing a few minor things on my car such as cleaning out the roof drains, changing a dodgy light globe and doing some paintwork scratch fixes etc etc, I definitely have this auto transmission thing going on, i have an 06 diesel 3.0 (build late 05), i note its mainly the 07 models and later but i have all the symptoms.

My question is dose BMW fix this with the update for free? or do i pay some exorbitant amount for them to do this?

Keep in mind im in Australia where BMW charge crazy prices for everything which is why i do my own service/s and all minor issues.

Completely different transmission.....but at this point no they would not fix it for free. Otherwise I wouldn't have suggested a lawyer to move things forward.

Originally Posted by maxeaus

I am currently doing a few minor things on my car such as cleaning out the roof drains, changing a dodgy light globe and doing some paintwork scratch fixes etc etc, I definitely have this auto transmission thing going on, i have an 06 diesel 3.0 (build late 05), i note its mainly the 07 models and later but i have all the symptoms.

My question is dose BMW fix this with the update for free? or do i pay some exorbitant amount for them to do this?

Keep in mind im in Australia where BMW charge crazy prices for everything which is why i do my own service/s and all minor issues.

As suggested you are not immune. It is not a post 2006 issue. My 2006 3.0d has issues in change from 1 to 2. Comes and goes.
Dealer has been quite good but I have recorded history for nealry 60,000km of this now but no fault codes and of course unable to demo the issue. As far as fault codes I can confirm as I have an OBD reader now and when it is acting up - no fault codes are being thrown. Will be setting up some serious monitoring/logging of the transmission to try to catch what is going on.
A software update by the local dealer (no charge even though way out of warranty) fixed it for a while but the old gremlins are back now. When it does work the 1 to 2 shift is smooth as . . but then . . sheesh. . . have to run SD mode and select 2 to start off from. 1st useless unless you can put up with the bang from the AT during the up shift to second. But then overnight it can be better again and wonderful to drive again. If I could disable first gear permanently I would - not necessary with the torque the diesel has IMO.

The reason for the OBD monitoring is that I have a suspicion. I have other gremlins that occur occasionally like steering wheel controls losing channel change and volume control. Power car off and start again and all ok. Times where I have lost the electric assist to the steering - again power of and on and all ok. So I wonder what else is happening. I wonder about the battery in the back and that long cable to the starter motor - the much larger cranking current for the diesel to start than a petrol motor - what is happening during cranking wrt voltages and what is being screwed up temporarily in the processors. I know the tranny CAN shift smooth as. Sorry for the long post. Will update if I find anything.

Originally Posted by x3oiler

As suggested you are not immune. It is not a post 2006 issue. My 2006 3.0d has issues in change from 1 to 2. Comes and goes.
Dealer has been quite good but I have recorded history for nealry 60,000km of this now but no fault codes and of course unable to demo the issue. As far as fault codes I can confirm as I have an OBD reader now and when it is acting up - no fault codes are being thrown. Will be setting up some serious monitoring/logging of the transmission to try to catch what is going on.
A software update by the local dealer (no charge even though way out of warranty) fixed it for a while but the old gremlins are back now. When it does work the 1 to 2 shift is smooth as . . but then . . sheesh. . . have to run SD mode and select 2 to start off from. 1st useless unless you can put up with the bang from the AT during the up shift to second. But then overnight it can be better again and wonderful to drive again. If I could disable first gear permanently I would - not necessary with the torque the diesel has IMO.

The reason for the OBD monitoring is that I have a suspicion. I have other gremlins that occur occasionally like steering wheel controls losing channel change and volume control. Power car off and start again and all ok. Times where I have lost the electric assist to the steering - again power of and on and all ok. So I wonder what else is happening. I wonder about the battery in the back and that long cable to the starter motor - the much larger cranking current for the diesel to start than a petrol motor - what is happening during cranking wrt voltages and what is being screwed up temporarily in the processors. I know the tranny CAN shift smooth as. Sorry for the long post. Will update if I find anything.

Sounds like our cars came off the same boat!

The previous owner had some work done on the transmission so maybe i can take it back under warranty, worth a try i guess, i believe he had a leak and had the fluid changed and the leak stopped, cost him 2k. I might look into it.

For me it mostly happens between 30 and 60 km/h which is of course the speed most likely being driven on our crappy roads.

Have any of you tried to change the transmission, transfer case and differential fluids? While I did not have as severe an issue, the 2007+ is not BMW smooth. When I changed mine, things felt better.

I used Redline for the differentials, BMW special transfer case fluid and I have to check but I believe Redline auto trans fluid. If you can do it or have an Indy do it, it might be worth a try.

Originally Posted by madurodave

Have any of you tried to change the transmission, transfer case and differential fluids? While I did not have as severe an issue, the 2007+ is not BMW smooth. When I changed mine, things felt better.

I used Redline for the differentials, BMW special transfer case fluid and I have to check but I believe Redline auto trans fluid. If you can do it or have an Indy do it, it might be worth a try.

I had all the fluids changed when the software was updated. The car had done approx 60,000km at that stage.

Originally Posted by Evlengr

Sorry, but no. I ended up doing a trade assist for an MT. This is after a year of detailed documentation, down to the second with who, when , why, and where I spent conversations e mails, etc.. and quite a lot with BMWNA. Corporate will point fingers at the dealer and the dealer will claim their hands are tied because of corporate.

Some people have had success with a reflash of the ECU, but you sound like you are stuck in same boat i was, whereas 1 out of 10 are completely incurable.

My resolution was a lawyer and lots of bad publicity to the point they said they would work with me if I would stop hammering them. I believe I have the direct number to CS at BMWNA if you would like me to look.

I will never buy an AT BMW again either. Seems just about all their drive by wire vehicles have some hesitation. Some can live with this. Me I don't know I expect a $40k plus vehicle to drive like one.

That and many other reasons is why I am ordering an Audi S4 this Friday since my vehicle although running great atm is out of warranty and I am not willing to risk the costly repairs that I have seen hit this vehicle at 80k plus miles. If Dinan would come out with a chip for the N55 engine like all the other BMW that have that power plant I would give serious consideration but no other way.

Only suggestion I can think of is a "sprint booster" which is a plug in to the OBD. Really only masks the problem, but better than how it currently behaves. The other solution is to drive it like a stick, and slap shift through your gearing. Or, since the dealer can't make good on repairs ask them about getting a T/A. All they can say is no. i would try to lemon it as the clock starts ticking the first time you asked for the repair, not the last. Lemon Lawyers cost the consumer NOTHING. The dealer has to pay. Again, try it. There is hundreds of precedent cases and I would be happy to sign an affidavit to that effect.

Thanks for the response! I looked into the lemon law. Guess the used lemon law does not apply in Washington State! So I'm out of luck there. If you do have that BMWNA phone number, I would appreciate that.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by maxeaus

Sounds like our cars came off the same boat!

The previous owner had some work done on the transmission so maybe i can take it back under warranty, worth a try i guess, i believe he had a leak and had the fluid changed and the leak stopped, cost him 2k. I might look into it.

For me it mostly happens between 30 and 60 km/h which is of course the speed most likely being driven on our crappy roads.

I have been investigating voltages in the car and the relation to the AT electronics. I suspect that electronics are very very sensitive to voltage. That this is the primary cause of my current issues. But first some background. About three years ago I had an overnight flat battery. The dealer was not open being Sunday so I bought the biggest lead acid I could that would fit. All up and running. Put the OEM battery on the shelf after charging it and did not think much more of it for near three years. I have been liviing with a poor 1 to 2 shift for quite some time but only after 3 hours or so highway driving. The first take off from stop then the gear box would slam the 1 to 2 shift. I could not think why car was flawless most of the time but not when get back into the city after such a long drive. But after recently researching AGM battery characteristics I might have made a big mistake. Simply put I do not think that the lead acid battery is up to it in the X3. Sure the std batteries will crank the car but the charging cycle is the thing to be worried about and might be the cause of all my AT issues. The x3 is designed to charge an AGM battery and to save fuel by not charging when accelerating and charging mostly when braking. The AGM can take much higher charging current than a std battery so shorter charging cycles will be ok. Thus the charging cycles sitting on cruise control for 3 hours might be less than optimal for a standard battery. Sure the std battery will not go flat but nor will it be at full charge. So after a long trip I suspect that the std battery was not well charged resulting in voltage issues mucking up the AT electronics.
Looking back I had multiple issues with the AT but the software update did fix a lot of them. But I cannot remember this 1 to 2 shift issue in the first years of ownership when I was running the AGM OEM battery.
So the AGM battery is back in the car. The terminals are tight both in the rear and the engine bay. Time will tell.
Ps the OEM battery here in Aus is approx 420 bucks (and considering current exchang rates that is a real ripoff) so I am not in a hurry to get a new one just yet. The old one is running fine and no issues yet but I have a long trip coming up so will report after that. Fingers crossed. Oh I also pack a super mini booster now in the trunk to start the thing if it dies on me.

Originally Posted by x3oiler

.... The x3 is designed to charge an AGM battery and to save fuel by not charging when accelerating and charging mostly when braking.

It might vary by market, but I don't believe the E83 in general came with a AGM battery.

It is true that if your vehicle came from the factory with an AGM any replacement should be an AGM (because of the somewhat different charging characteristic).

If your O.E. battery has the 'magic eye', a white translucent case, and a vent, it is not an AGM.

All N. American E83's AFAIK came with a conventional flooded cell battery.

Did the E83 come with an AGM in Australia, even as far back as 2006?
Possibly for climatic reasons?

http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/do....04/34922413/3

Excuse my ignorance but what is "AT" electronics and what is a "AGM" battery?

I'm guessing AT means auto transmission, but i don't know the AGM bit

.................Google, "Absorbed Glass Matt", OK i will check this out, not sure what one i have but it went flat on me two weeks ago and the NRMA saved my ass, it was easily recharged though after an overnight charge on the battery charger, so mine has the "eye".

WTF, $600 for a battery! thats ridiculous, i would never pay that....ever.