How to check & replace your BMW front disc brakes and rotors

An interesting tidbit arose today in this thread:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > How to tell which 540 caliper: 96-2000 or 04/2000-2003

To check whether the previous owner changed the caliper, on the caliper, apparently, is stamped relevant sizes:

• BMW 60/30/324
  • 60mm diameter caliper piston
  • 30mm diameter rotor width
  • 324mm diameter rotor face

Originally Posted by pshovest

60/30/324 is the key. This means the caliper has a 60mm diameter piston and is intended to be used with rotors 324 mm in diameter x 30mm width.

I'm not positive, but it looks like all 540's used this size rotor and 530's from 2001 on use this rotor. According to the TIS, the pre 3/00 and post 3/00 540 rotor PN changed, but they remained 324 x 30mm.

EDIT: More info....pre and post 03/00 540's use the same caliper and wheel bearing...it's a mystery what changed about the rotor when other key components didn't change.

Paul S
BMW CCA 69606

Today, someone quoted the old chart (see below) in this thread in order to ask what the key was for the supplier column A.
- Ok don't murder my face but... (front pads)

The key to the chart is listed in post #8 of this thread:
- Are these the preferred parts suppliers for OEM (only) by price?

Key:
CR = Crevier BMW
SC = Stevenscreek BMW
PA = Pacific BMW
PP = Pelican Parts
BA = Bavauto Parts
BM = BMAParts
EP = EuroParts Direct
AE = AllEuro

With the question asked of each of them simply being "What do you have that is CLOSEST to stock for my 2002 525i?"

Not all the parts were the same, as noted in post #22 (partially quoted below):

... what I found was that Crevier and the local BMW were 2x the prices for the same quality than the other bimmerfest suggested suppliers for front and rear pads, rotors, and sensors.

Here's a cut and paste from my spreadsheet, bearing in mind some (like EuroParts) quoted Brembo rotors while others (like Bavarian) quoted ATE; likewise with the pads where some (like AllEuro) quoted Textar while others (like Pelican) quoted Jurid, while others (like Europarts) quoted PBR Ultimates, and others (like Bavarian) quoted Pagid, etc.

All in all, since what I want is as close to OE as possible, I'll go with the best price ...

For the cross-linked record, today a discussion on brake squeal:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Help with Brake Squeal

posited that the metal-on-metal vibration of the pads against the pistons is a major component of brake squeal.

I'm not so sure ... as I have no idea 'what' causes brake squeal ... but ... as a datapoint set, I re-iterate the following which came out of this thread over time:

1. My original Jurid/Textar pads did not seem to have an insulating material on the pad backing plate and they did not squeal ...

2. Likewise, as shown in this thread from March 2008, my replacement Jurid/Textar pads did not seem to have anything on the pad backing plate ... and they didn't squeal either.

3. The later PBR Duluxe Advanced replacement of the fronts (leaving Textar on the rears) in this thread last summer, DID squeal ... and they have an insulating material on the pad backing plate. Go figure.

I should note that this PBR Deluxe Advanced squeal when braking at about 30 to 50 mph, did not happen for the first few thousand miles; and that it went away after about a thousand miles - and I no longer hear it (at about 5K miles later).

All this data is confusing as it does not point to the cause of brake-related squeal. Sigh.

EDIT: Note that I followed the Bentley instructions for lubrication of the caliper landings only (placing nothing on the pad backing material).

Hey just to note- i tried calling OEM Bimmerparts and their number is no longer valid.. must be out of business? 210-445-7099 is someones random number lol

Originally Posted by Brandon540/6M

Hey just to note- i tried calling OEM Bimmerparts and their number is no longer valid.. must be out of business? 210-445-7099 is someones random number lol

Sorry about that. OemBimmerParts.com apparently changed their number.

I had updated the "general suppliers" thread, as shown here in post #28:

See also the SITE SPONSOR INDEX!

• AllEuro (NV),866-286-2051,http://www.alleuropeanautoparts.com
• AllOem,(??),800-230-5754,http://www.alloembmwparts.com
• Apex,(PA),866-505-2739,http://www.apexperformance.net
• AutoBody,(??),800-364-3005,http://www.bmwautobodypartstore.com
• AutoHaus,(AZ),800-240-4620,http://www.autohausaz.com,(no,ship>50)
• Auto Parts Warehouse (??),800-859-0923,http:// www auto parts warehouse com
• Bavarian Auto Recycling,(CA),800-726-4269,http://www.bmrparts.com
• Bavarian Auto Parts,(NH),800-535-2002,http://www.bavauto.com
• Bimmerpart,(??),888-810-9223,http://www.bimmerpartswholesale.com
• BMAParts,(CA),888-262-3911,http://www.bmaparts.com
• BMWfans,(??),???-???-????,http://www.bmwfans.info
• Circle,(NJ),732-440-1238,http://www.circlebmw.com
• Crevier,(CA),800-309-2318,http://www.crevierbmw.com
• Crown,(NC),866-756-1437,http://www.crownbmw.com
• EACTuning,(OH),877.322.5757,http://www.eactuning.com,
• ElAuto,(FL),954-316-1022,http://www.elautoparts.com
• EuroParts,(NY),800-871-3619,http://www.europartsdirect.com
• KOPerf,(FL),888-581-1035,http://www.koperformance.com
• Mileone,(MD),443-872-0743,http://www.mileoneparts.com
• OemBimmer,(TX),210-277-9625,http://www.oembimmerparts.com
• OverNight,(??),800-267-1845,http://www.overnightautoparts.com
• Pacific,(CA),800-542-9634,http://www.pacificbmw.com
• The Parts Bin,(??),888-628-3247,http:// www. the parts bin .com
• Pelican,(CA),888-280-7799,http://www.pelicanparts.com
• RealOEM,(WB),NO-PHONE,http://www.realoem.com/bmw
• TecaAccess,(??),925-485-4559,http://www.tecaccessories.com
• Tischer BMW,(MD)877-211-2764,http://getbmwparts.com
• Turner,(MA),800-280-6966,http://www.turnermotorsport.com
• Zeckhausen,(NJ),800-222-8893,http://www.zeckhausen.com

But I hadn't updated the most-often-recommended top-five brake-parts suppliers:

Originally Posted by bluebee

TOP 5 Brake Pad Suppliers for the E39 (PLEASE CORRECT AS NEEDED!)
- OEMm Bimmer Parts (TX) 210-445-7090 http://www.oembimmerparts.com
- SpeedNet Motorsports (CA) 800-530-3515 http://www.speednetmotorsports.com/index.html
- Turner Motorsport (MA) 800-280-6966 http://www.turnermotorsport.com
- Zeckhausen (NJ) 800-222-8893 http://www.zeckhausen.com
- ??? (anyone else in the top 5) ???

So, here is the most-often recommended top five brake pad suppliers, corrected:
- OEMm Bimmer Parts (TX) 210-277-9625 http://www.oembimmerparts.com
- SpeedNet Motorsports (CA) 800-530-3515 http://www.speednetmotorsports.com/index.html
- Turner Motorsport (MA) 800-280-6966 http://www.turnermotorsport.com
- Zeckhausen (NJ) 800-222-8893 http://www.zeckhausen.com

bluebee always on the ball! good ****. we need to figure out a nice clean way to organize all the stuff you do for the site.. hmmm

Originally Posted by Brandon540/6M

we need to figure out a nice clean way to organize all the stuff

Have you been to the bestlinks?

- What E39 street use brake pads (1) and rotors (1) and suppliers (1) (2) are most often recommended & how to do a complete four wheel brake job DIY (1) (2) (3) including the parking brake drum shoes (1) (2) (3) & exactly what lube/paste to use and not use (1) & where to lube (1) and not to lube (1) & what six brake hoses to check for wear (1) & how to do a preventive brake system & caliper rebuild (1) (2) & what tools are needed for a brake job (1) (2) and supplies for doing brakes (1) & what brake specifications you must know (1) including minimum specs for the brake shoes (1) (2) taking care to measure torque accurately (1) & how to crack friction material edge codes (1) & how far you can go once the brake wear sensor trips (1) (2) (3) (4) & how long do rotors last (1) & what's the real difference between drilled, slotted, and solid rotors (1) & what's the difference between various brands of solid rotors (1) & how to clear the check brake lining warning the right way (1) (2) and how to hardwire the sensor (1) (2) & how to diagnose brake-related vibration (1) (2) (3) & the truth about rotor "warp" (1) & how to rebuild the calipers (1) & how to measure runout (1) & should you just turn the rotors (1) & how to remove stuck rusted-on brake rotors (1) & how to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw (1) & how to replace the anti-rattle spring (1) (2) & what about unsightly rust (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to bed (1) (2) & bleed or flush (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) your brakes & what brake & clutch hydraulic fluid to use (1) and how much it will cost if you do not DIY (1) (2) (3)

By way of newbie-to-newbie cross reference, see this thread from today, where a newbie asks the same kinds of questions we all have to learn eventually:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > ~ ~ Need Advice on BRAKES qustion... ASAP ~ ~

Here's my response, now that I've done the job twice and have read all that I could on the net about the right way to do a BMW E39 brake job:

Warning: I'm gonna give you some heart-felt advice.

• Learn to DIY and you won't have these problems!

Think you can't DIY?

Well, think of this.

Nobody could possibly know less inherently about cars than I do; and, in fact, my first 'newbie' post here on Bimmerfest (10,000 posts ago), was exactly what you're facing.

My very first brake job.

So, newbie to newbie, use me as your example please:
- Newbie questions about my very first front brake job

Skim through that thread, my very first thread on Bimmerfest way back when. Like you, I had no idea what a front brake job entailed (this one morphed into a front/rear with rotors & fluid changes & lubricants & drum brake measurements & emergency brake adjustment plus an assortment of torque figures and tools needed with spreadsheets and lists for parts & price surveys).

• ATE rotors (all four)
• Jurid front pads
• Textar rear pads
• OEM sensors (front left, rear right)
• Brake fluids & lubricants
• Tools (manuals, torque wrenches, dial gauges, micrometers, calipers, spreaders, jacks, caliper hangers, etc.)
• Prices (including a complete survey of the entire market at that time)
• Insults, jibes, admonishments, corrections, kudos, complaints, commendations, etc.

Unlike you, I simply did the work myself. It was easy. The research was hard. And, the job took me days to complete the physical part (weeks if you count the prior research). [NOTE: My next brake job took only a few hours.]

One difference between you and me though, as newbies. I read everything I could. Still do. If someone provided a reference. I read it. And, I commented on it (at the very least, to show that I had read it, but, more importantly, because every bit of information raises new questions for newbies).

Everyone here pitched in though.

A good third of the advice was dead wrong (as some of your statements seem to be). Another third of the advice turned out (in hindsight) to be obvious, once I had completed that first brake job (as many of your questions are). And, the last third was (and always will be) subject to opinion (which means there really is no 'right' answer - again - as many of your assumptions bear out).

Some were helpful. Some brutal. Others condescending. Most were rather blunt with me ... as I'm going to be rather blunt with you ... see below ... (it's called "tough love" in some circles) ... which I appreciated then, and now.

Compare to these prices, from the referenced thread above, for JUST parts:

OE and OEM are not the same thing. If you don't even know what you 'heard', how on earth are you going to complain about what he said?

See details here (and all over the place):
- The Differences Between OE OEM and OES Parts

Jeezus. Stop worrying. You got a great deal on pads & rotors.

They're almost certainly NOT what your car was born with. So what? He 'said' it was "OE" (or was it "OEM")? Does it matter at this point? Looks like you got neither. But, it doesn't look like you paid for OE or OEM either. Just use up the pads & rotors, and then, when it comes time for new ones (30,000 miles later), put on the most recommended pads we all use here (references already cited prior).

I see you believe in pretty M A R K E T I N G pictures.
Let me tell you a little secret. Come closer. ... yes. Closer. SLAP! ... A rotor is a rotor. Stop stressing over it!

Whew! Now I feel better.

Read the thread I pointed you to on the (real) difference between rotors (hint, practically nothing).

You've been driving a Corvette too long. Of COURSE you have to remove the wheel. Big deal.

Nothing wrong with bleeding brakes, nor with changing the hygroscopic fluid every few years ... but ... methinks every one of us felt a marked DIFFERENCE in initial 'bite' when we replaced our original Jurid/Textar combination (front/rear) with "something else". I know I did when I switched to the most recommended pad set.

Funny thing. Just a month or two later (now about a year), I didn't/don't even notice the difference ('cept the blissful lack of dust).

Only the rear parking brake needs "adjustment".

Not normally. But many of us do it anyway.

Many change brake fluid on a two to five year schedule:
- Brake & clutch fluid: Brake & clutch hydraulic fluid (1) & recommended E39 brake job "fluids" (1) & how brake bleeding DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

ATE rotors, Jurid (front), Textar (rear), Textar (I think) for the drums.

Bleeding is not the same as flushing which is certainly not the same as topping off - so - before you ask - make sure you know what you're asking for.

Topping off 'is' generally considered part of a standard brake job. Bleeding and/or flushing is not.

Make sure you READ the links that people post. It takes effort to provide them and they will answer all your questions (so far anyway, you haven't asked a single question which isn't already answered before you asked it).

BTW, if you REALLY want to learn, you can't do better than clicking on a few of THESE comprehensive links which were intended for people like you (and me):

- What E39 street use brake pads (1) and rotors (1) and suppliers (1) (2) are most often recommended & how to do a complete four wheel brake job DIY (1) (2) (3) including the parking brake drum shoes (1) (2) (3) & exactly what lube/paste to use and not use (1) & where to lube (1) and not to lube (1) & what six brake hoses to check for wear (1) & how to do a preventive brake system & caliper rebuild (1) (2) & what tools are needed for a brake job (1) (2) and supplies for doing brakes (1) & what brake specifications you must know (1) including minimum specs for the brake shoes (1) (2) taking care to measure torque accurately (1) & how to crack friction material edge codes (1) & how far you can go once the brake wear sensor trips (1) (2) (3) (4) & how long do rotors last (1) & what's the real difference between drilled, slotted, and solid rotors (1) & what's the difference between various brands of solid rotors (1) & how to clear the check brake lining warning the right way (1) (2) and how to hardwire the sensor (1) (2) & how to diagnose brake-related vibration (1) (2) (3) & the truth about rotor "warp" (1) & how to rebuild the calipers (1) & how to measure runout (1) & should you just turn the rotors (1) & how to remove stuck rusted-on brake rotors (1) & how to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw (1) & how to replace the anti-rattle spring (1) (2) & what about unsightly rust (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to bed (1) (2) & bleed or flush (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) your brakes & what brake & clutch hydraulic fluid to use (1) and how much it will cost if you do not DIY (1) (2) (3)

It's not unfortunate. You got a great price on a 'standard' brake job. There's nothing wrong with that.

Next time, you can do it yourself and save even more. You, like the rest of us, will (by then) know enough to choose at least from the most recommended pads and rotors.

HINT: Many of us (including me), ditched the OEM fitment for something that dusted less (& bites less, & lasts longer).

Remember:

• Nothing bites like the OEM
• Nothing lasts shorter than OEM
  • And ...
    
• Nothing dusts like OEM!

That's why many of us DON'T use OEM pads!

Note to self: Why I'm spending valuable time & effort trying to help someone who unhelpfully lists his bimmer as a Corvette, is starting to get beyond me.

Dealer wanted $1385. plus tax towels etc. t wasn't cheap but front and rears BMW parts was around $650. I used Wagner Thermo Quiet pads, no dust, no noise. It was Saturday so bought one sensor at O'Reilly and it cost more than BMW, and it broke on install. Recently did job on 04' 528, and they have redesigned the sensor making it thicker and stronger so you get earlier warning.

Originally Posted by Melrose

Wagner Thermo Quiet pads, no dust, no noise

Wow. That certainly isn't one of the most recommended pads for the E39!
- What brake pads are recommended for street use on the E39?

Let us know, over time, how they perform for you so we can learn from you.

PS: I'm surprised a sensor would be at an autoparts store. You have a well-stocked supplier. Me? I get 'em from the sponsors.

Today, there was an interesting discussion about rotor grooves over here:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Fixed my shimmy while braking problem!

Originally Posted by cn90

No rotors come from factory are perfectly flat.

The brake pad "deposit" garbage started somewhere on the internet and thousands of people believe this garbage.

The bottom line is: for smooth braking the grooves on the pads must "match" with the grooves on the rotor.
Assuming there is no runout, as long as there is a match between the brake pad's grooves and the rotors grooves, the braking is smooth.
Rotor resurfacing works, it is old business but it works, it removes the runout.

So, the question I would like to ask here is:
Q: What is the official BMW spec for the thickness of a groove that will fail a rotor upon measurement?


See scoring below from this web site:

So, the question I would like to ask here is:
Q: What is the official BMW spec for the thickness of a groove that will fail a rotor upon measurement?[/QUOTE]

You're assuming such a spec exists. The real question is, how would you take such a measurement? You could use a depth mic (micrometer), but you need a smooth surface to rest the base of the mic on to get an accurate measurement, and a worn rotor has no such surface. Perhaps a specialty tool exists, but I don't know of any.

Anybody???

Jerry

Originally Posted by uncmozo

You're assuming such a spec exists.

RDL found, in this thread, a surface roughness spec from the BMW TIS:
- When do we fail our rotors due to scratches/grooves/roughness based on BMW specs?

What he found was a surface roughness specification, included below.
While he explained how to make the measurements, surface roughness measurement is beyond our garage tool means.

Originally Posted by uncmozo

The real question is, how would you take such a measurement?

Simple!
- Popular Mechanics: Measuring scoring in brake rotors with a dime!

How can you test the depth of a score? If it's thick enough, insert the head of a dime into it. If the dime goes in beyond the top of the president's head, the score is too deep. If a score is too thin for the dime to slip in, it's harmless. Another test is to run your fingernail across the surface radially. If your nail catches, the rotor needs to be resurfaced. If not, you're probably okay, provided there's enough thickness left on a true-running rotor.

Read more: Servicing Brake Discs - Popular Mechanics

Of course, that's measuring the scoring, and RDL couldn't find a scoring depth spec for the BMW (so we used the 20 to 140 µin === 20 to 140 millionths of an inch Cadillac specs as shown below):

• 20 µin x .000001 = .000020 inches
• 140 µin x .000001 = .000140 inches

Looking up the Roosevelt dime (minted since 1946), I find the thickness is:

• 1.35mm === 0.053 inches

I guess it's close enough to the minimum spec to work in the garage.

What do you think?

I was thinking more along the lines of mounting the rotor in a lathe, and with the lathe NOT running, mount a dial indicator with a mag base to the carraige. Move the dial indicator along the surface, and take your reading. Then at least you have some real numbers.

Originally Posted by uncmozo

Then at least you have some real numbers.

Good point.

But, for me anyway, I'll take my Roosevelt dime, and, if any score is wider than the dime and/or deeper than the head, I'd replace the rotor. That works for me (unless/until we get an official BMW scoring spec).

BTW, yesterday I had new tires put on based on this thread:
- Curious what you think of my excessive tire wear (is it due to camber or toe-in?)

When the mechanic noticed my rear brake pads were very low. The light hasn't lit, but it looks like there's yet another brake job (rear only since the fronts are about a year old) in my near future!

That's what I love about learning: Reuse!

NOTE: The mechanics knew nothing of the red dot; they removed the BMW hubcaps by hand; they tried to re-install them with channel lock pliers!; they used 100 lbs of torque on the nuts until I told 'em otherwise; & they put in the same air pressure in all four tires. That's what I hate about having someone else work on my bimmer!

Originally Posted by bluebee

the tire mechanic noticed my rear brake pads were very low. The light hasn't lit, but it looks like there's yet another brake job (rear only since the fronts are about a year old) in my near future!

Oh oh. At 102,566 miles, that rear brake job was way sooner than I had expected.

Apparently, the outboard pads on the OEM Textars, put in at about 75K miles in March 2008, at the very start of this thread, has a small knob on each end that sticks up, oh, about a half a millimeter, or so.

My right rear brake wear sensor was scratched, but still intact (i.e., no light on the dash). But, those little nubs started to grind on the outside of the right rear rotor this morning!

I immediately called all the auto parts stores in town, and found, in stock at NAPA, PBR Deluxe Advanced rear pads for $42 + tax (to match my fronts of PBR Deluxe Advanced, aka Axxis Deluxe Advanced). Total miles driven on the metal-on-metal were about 12 - and I tried to use engine braking as much as I could.

An hour or two after arriving home, I had new brakes pads on the rear. It was uneventful, but, as always, I snapped a hundred or so pictures. The rotors are only lightly scored; but they are slightly below the wear limit of 0.720 inches, so I will need to get a set and replace them after the fact.

Again, the brakes were dry as a bone; so, I did an experiment and put the set on entirely dry. We'll see what happens.

See also BMW TIS
- 34 21 200 Removing and installing or replacing brake linings on both rear disk brakes (1)

For the record, someone just asked today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > E39 brake job question

Originally Posted by Billy Hopkins

I would like to replace my rear rotors and pads myself. Is there a thread to show me a DIY? Oh, on my E39.

For the cross-linked record, today it was noted that rotors generally last about a pad and a half:
- E46 (1999 - 2006) > brake parts question- raceshopper has brake sale

Originally Posted by jcourcoul

the rule of thumb is that the rotors last about a pad and a half.

For the record, the discussion of anti-squeal paste today is useful:
- Where exactly to apply anti-squeal compound on brake pads?

For the record, the cold/hot friction grade for the PBR Deluxe Advanced pads I put in are FF.

Apparently I should have used 'better' pads, based on preliminary information available here:

- What is the friction grade for the most recommended E39 brake pads (e.g., EE, FF, EF)

For the record, someone asked today when to replace pads if the pad material is low.
- Brake job suggested on my 2003 e-39

The technically-correct answer, of course, is in the specs, but here is a 'pragmatic' answer that others may benefit from:

Originally Posted by bluebee

1. Remove at least one wheel on each axle now
   • Look to see how much pad you have left
     • Measure against minimum pad specifications (0.120" or 3mm)
       • HINT: You can assume something like ~500 to 1,000 miles per mm of pad (depending on the pads)
   • Measure the thickness of the rotor against minimum specifications (0.800" front, & 0.720" rear)
     • You want to know this BEFORE you order parts!
     • Otherwise you may have to do the job twice (ask me how I know)
       • HINT: You can assume something like ~500 to 1,000 miles per .001" of rotor (depending on the pads)
2. If the pads are below spec, then temporarily remove the brake wear sensors
   • This is simply to save the $40 on two new brake wear sensors ...
   • Note: Wear sensors are clipped onto the driver side front & passenger-side rear inboard pads
3. Immediately buy & install new pads and rotors, as needed
   • See: What brake pads are recommended for street use on the E39
   • See: What friction grade is recommended for E39 brake pads (e.g., EE, FF, EF)
   • See: What are the recommended fluids for your E39 brake job
   • Re-install the old brake wear sensors (front left, & rear right)

I think we finally got an answer as to what the purpose is of the black pad on the back of the Axxis/PBR Deluxe Advanced FRONT pads of my E39 (but which was not on the back of the Axxis/PBR Deluxe Advanced REAR) pads for my E39.

This quote from post #13 today of this thread suggests an anti-squeal purpose:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Brake job suggested on my 2003 e-39

Originally Posted by CalvinH

the "integral anti-squeal shim" mentioned in the text above [For the Axxis/PBR ULTs] looks more like an applied sticker to me. Not sure if I should use the anti squeal goop on it though.

If true, that answers the question long ago asked in post #159 of this thread:
- How to check & replace your BMW front disc brakes and rotors

That question is reproduced below pictorially from that post #159:


NOTE: The part about Axxis no longer being sold was proved fallacious in this thread:
- Why so hard to price Axxis Deluxe Advanced brake pads on the Internet?

This means to check your brake light bulbs in the rear!!!!!
Not your brake pads!!!!